It wasn’t Matthieu Blazy who created the buzz, but he certainly kicked it up a gear. Amongst the 77-look line-up of his giddily received debut spring/summer 2026 collection for Chanel, unveiled last October, was a trio of cotton shirts: oversized and boyish, flawlessly cut and utterly pristine. One white, one powder pink, one striped blue, and each one hand embroidered just above the waist with a Chanel monogram. They were the result of a partnership with legendary Parisian shirtmaker Charvet, the 194-year-old family-owned house that, over the past few years, has earned cult status among fashion’s most discerning women, a badge of honour amongst those in the know whether they’re buying its ready-to-wear shirts from Net-A-Porter or ordering bespoke pieces by appointment in its Place de Vendome headquarters.
Between the enduring effect of the quiet-luxury movement and a renewed appreciation for craft and long-lasting quality, we are increasingly willing to invest more in the staples that we know will go the distance in our wardrobes. And the possibilities for spending big on day-to-day items like a button-up shirt are apparently endless. At Charvet, for example, an off-the-rack shirt costs around £425, while made-to-measure prices start at nearly twice that. That looks positively competitive when set against some designer offerings: shirts from brands like The Row, Loewe and Bottega Veneta routinely top £1,000, while those aforementioned Chanel shirts retailed—and sold out—at £3,500 and up, and the cost of couture pieces can run into the tens of thousands.
So, is the hefty price tag worth it? It’s true that shirting is a sartorial blank canvas rather than a flash-in-the-pan trend, which means that any button-up you buy has decades-long potential. This season’s iterations draw on the same menswear codes that have defined shirts for the last century, and would have appealed to the likes of Katharine Hepburn, Jane Birkin or Diane Keaton as much as they do Margot Robbie, Jennifer Lawrence and Zoe Kravitz. “I truly believe shirts are the most democratic piece of clothing for any woman,” says Pip Durrell, founder of cult London brand With Nothing Underneath and shirt superfan. “They feel nostalgic whilst timeless; everyone can wear one no matter your age, size, race, gender—and a good one is always going to be an asset to your wardrobe.”
There are real benefits, too, in terms of quality, fit and fabric when it comes to buying custom shirts, and if you’re a perfectionist when it comes to details, then you’ll revel in the chance to drill down into everything from collar shape and pocket placement to button-hole direction. Emma Willis, founder of the eponymous British shirt making atelier, has seen an uptick in women looking for made-to-measure shirts over the past few years. “Often they say how unfair it is that the fabric quality in women’s shirts is very inferior to men’s, with much less choice and so many using man-made fabrics,” she says. “They also want to repeat buy a shirt they love but, because women’s fashion is more season and collection-led, find it’s often not possible. When they work with a made-to-measure or bespoke shirtmaker like us, once we have their body pattern they can re-order in different styles or fabrics. The world is their oyster.”
While it’s always a good rule of thumb to buy the best quality clothes that you can afford, it doesn’t necessarily follow that you have to spend hundreds of pounds to do it. For one thing, the big advantage in the hunt for an evergreen item like a shirt is that there are myriad vintage and second-hand options available. Amy Bannerman, pre-loved stylist and founder of Francine, has a wardrobe packed out with boyfriend shirts, “all very specific, a precise colour of blue and with very thin stripes.” This month she’s launching a collection of vintage striped and checked shirts that she’s hand sourced and had monogrammed by embroiderer Cressida Jamieson. She suggests narrowing down your search by looking for established shirt brands like Ralph Lauren or Austin Reed if you’re searching for secondhand online, but thinks the best finds are often to be had on the men’s rail in good charity shops. If the fit isn’t quite right you can always spend some of the money you’ve saved on having a tailor adjust it, or take another tip from Bannerman: “I love wearing an oversized man’s shirt, but they can become a bit swampy,” she says. “I’ve made matching and contrasting ones for the capsule which you can use to create a ponytail at the back of your shirt that you can tuck into your trousers. It gives the shirt a bit of a waist.”
So what else should you know if you want to find the perfect shirt regardless of your budget? “Always look for the fit and the material–as you would with any good piece of clothing,” says Durrell. “A slightly oversized fit and relaxed cut are proportions that will always flatter whilst adding a casual edge to your outfit that makes it feel effortless. Always notice the buttons, too. Not just what they are made of, but if they have considered placement over the bust. It’s also worth investing in natural materials, such as 100% organic cotton.”
“Look at the collar,” adds Willis. “It’s fundamental because that frames your face and you want to make sure that, whether you’re wearing a jacket with it or not, the collar has a really nice structure to it so it doesn’t collapse and flop. If you’re going to tuck in the shirt, make sure it’s long enough—you get a much better shape if you can really pull it down. And if you want a neater rather than oversized fit then you want the seams to sit on top of your shoulders rather than dropping off.” You’ve got their advice—now to get all buttoned up.
Shop the edit: Shirts
