Oliviero Toscani, the man behind Benetton’s controversial campaigns, has died

Following the death of Missoni co-founder Rosita Missoni just last week, the fashion industry is now mourning the loss of one of the most trailblazing photographers of his generation. Oliviero Toscani, known for his shocking advertising campaigns with Italian label Benetton, has died aged 82.

Writing on Instagram, his wife Kirsti said: "It is with great sorrow that we announce the news that today, 13 January 2025, our beloved Oliviero has embarked on his next journey. We kindly ask for confidentiality and understanding for the moment that we would like to face in the privacy of the family.”

Toscani revealed last year he had amyloidosis, a rare and incurable condition where protein deposits affect the body's vital organs. He was admitted to hospital on Friday in Cecina, near his Tuscan country home.

For two decades, Toscani was the art director of the global clothing chain Benetton. His work drew attention to social themes, such as the Aids pandemic, racism, war and the death penalty. Paying tribute to his legacy, Benetton released a photograph he had taken for the brand in 1989.

"In order to explain certain things, words simply don't suffice. You taught us that," the brand said on Monday. "Farewell Oliviero. Keep on dreaming."

Toscani worked for prominent fashion magazines throughout his career including Elle, Vogue, GQ and Harper’s Bazaar, while photographing the likes of John Lennon, Andy Warhol and the Italian film director Federico Fellini along the way.

However, he was best known for his United Colours of Benetton advertising campaigns throughout the 1980s. One of the most controversial was his use of a photograph of David Kirby, who had Aids, for a 1992 Benetton campaign during the peak of the health crisis in the US.

Other provocative photos included a kiss between a priest and a nun, the faces of men on death row, a black woman breastfeeding a white child and a still-bloody newborn baby with umbilical cord attached.

He also courted controversy with his 2007 photograph for the fashion brand Nolita of the model Isabelle Caro, who had severe anorexia and was pictured nude. She later died of the disease. The image, timed to run in line with Milan fashion week, was displayed on billboards with the words “No Anorexia” over the photo.

He parted company with the brand in 2000 following disputes over his last campaign, which featured images of death row prisoners, captioned "sentenced to death".

He is survived by his wife and three children Rocco, Lola and Ali.