Critics and TikTok fashion fans are in agreement: Jean Paul Gaultier's Couture Spring/Summer '24 show was particularly special. The collection, magicked up by guest designer Simone Rocha, has been the talk of social media.
Historically highfalutin haute couture isn't usually TikTok fodder – well, apart from the oft-shared VIP attendees – but Rocha is an exception to the rule. The London-based designer is often credited with Gen Z's unrelenting fascination with bows and coquette style, an aesthetic that the social platform has helped incubate.
Speaking of, there were bows aplenty. The designer's famous motif appeared in the form of oversized gold earrings, sure to filter down into ready-to-wear iterations. Meanwhile, hand-knotted navy ribbons formed the stripes of a tulle mariniere top, a JPG staple reimagined for Rocha's cult of coquettes.
Other icons of the house got the Rocha treatment, too – the result of diving into the JPG archives in the research phase. Jean Paul Gaultier's signature sailor hat appeared not in utilitarian cotton but in precious duchesse satin or tulle, with trailing bows, corset-style detailing and/or crystal flowers.
Corsetry, a mainstay in the JPG catalogue, was ever-present, cinching waists beneath outer-layers or as a visible element of a mini dress or coat. It proved a winning contrast alongside a frothy tutu skirt or one architected with a crinoline or bustle – silhouettes that are recognisably Rocha's, but a little more grown-up, more sensual.
The collection was described as 'a dialogue between Jean Paul Gaultier and Simone Rocha' and proved to be a most compelling conversation (via the medium of couture). Rocha's girl met JPG's woman and it just worked. The response on Instagram and TikTok was overwhelmingly gushing, with more than one commenter issuing a short but clear review. 'Slay,' they said. I'd be inclined to agree.
