Dolce & Gabbana's AW25 show celebrated the cool girl

For some time now, the question 'Is the It Girl over?' has sparked industry-wide debate. Yet, if modern media has taught us anything, it's that she's here to stay. From Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy's resurgence among Gen Z on TikTok to Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie reviving The Simple Life, love for the cool girl persona is as strong as ever - and the fashion industry agrees.

A recurring theme on the catwalk this season, last weekend, designer Sinead Gorey brought a ‘day after’ mood to the London Fashion Week, sending models down the runway nonchalantly smoking and eating a crispy KFC chicken sandwich.

As guests arrived for Dolce and Gabbana's Autumn/Winter 2025 show in Milan large plasma screens lined the walls with the words "Being a cool girl means staying true to yourself." Inspired by the off-duty looks of some of their favourite women including model Irina Shayk, Maneskin and bass player Vict De Angelis, the aesthetic was far more casual than we have come to expect from the Italian duo.

Opening the show this season was Argentine model and actress Mica Argañaraz, who led the way for grunge-inspired looks with parachute trousers, khaki parkas, oversized beanies, sheer laces dresses and shearling-lined bomber jackets. Fur (predominantly shearling) has dominated catwalks for Autumn/Winter and Dolce & Gabbana was no different - with models wearing matching fur coats and skirts and carrying XL furry bags.

What followed was a shift back to the glamorous evening wear Dolce & Gabbana fans love. However hemlines were shorter than usual with embellished mini dresses styled with equally embellished biker boots and only one look referenced the design duo's signature corsetry lacing.

This season's colour scheme was a street grunge-inspired palette of black, grey, white, and khaki, and of course Dolce & Gabbana's signature leopard print.

The brand enlisted some of the industry's favourite cool girls such as Amelia Gray Hamlin and up-and-coming model Lulu Tenney - although it would've been great to witness a more body-diverse show this season.

As models walked to the end of the catwalk they were led onto an outdoor industrial platform that lined the disused tram lines outside, where passersby could witness the collection themselves. The show finale saw an outdoor DJ set by one of Milan's resident up-and-coming cool girls, Måneskin bass player Victoria De Angelis.

Dolce & Gabbana appeared to be tapping into a younger audience and this was certainly the way to do it.

Sofia Piza is the Junior Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK. With extensive experience and a degree in Fashion Journalism, she covers runway trends, shopping picks, celebrity fashion, and industry news.

Throughout her career, Sofia's work has ranged from in-depth interviews with industry experts and high-profile celebrities to creative production for editorial cover shoots and red-carpet coverage. Born in Mexico and raised in five countries, Sofia's multicultural upbringing has fed into her interest in international markets, leading her fashion week coverage across London, Milan, Paris, New York, and Copenhagen.