Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025: The Highlights

Milan Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 is in full swing. The Marie Claire fashion team is on the ground, bringing you all the stand-out moments from the catwalks, as well as a preview of next season's trends. Take a look at some of our highlights below, and stay tuned for more to come.

Ferragamo

For Autumn/Winter 2025, Ferragamo creative director Maximilian Davis was inspired by the world of dance, specifically the work of the German Tanztheater. Taking visual references from the 1920s and 1980s – the decades key to the genre of expressionist dance – the collection explores movement throughout time.

“The twenties were a moment of freedom, of people rebelling and creating spaces for themselves,” said Davis in a release. Straight-cut silken slips were inset with drop-waist lace appliqué, or collaged with strips of shearling, while the era’s uniform details were applied to utilitarian leathers and tailoring. “The surrealist idea of taking everyday objects and making them feel a little disturbed is something I feel is very interesting,” he explained. “Creating a sense of discomfort in the expected.”

Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani (the higher end companion to Emporio Armani, which showed in Milan last Thursday) presented a faux-fur heavy collection for autumn/winter 2025 — something that we have seen across cities for the upcoming season. Fluffy coats, scarves and hats in a variety of colours appeared on the runway, alongside silk dresses and sharp separates. A muted 'greige' colour palette ran throughout, synonymous with Mr Armani and his design codes.

Versace

Against the backdrop of swirling rumours that Prada is set to buy Versace from US-based Capri Holdings (which also owns Michael Kors and Jimmy Choo), the staple Italian fashion house presented its autumn/winter 2025 collection on Friday night. Writing on Instagram, Donatella — who has headed up the label since her brother Gianni's shocking death in 1997 — said: "This collection means so much to me. It is Versace’s codes made into new icons for the future. I hope you love it as much as we loved designing it for you." Bold prints, sexy sculpted dresses and silver chainmail were all out in full-force, doing exactly what Versace does best. It was also modelled by Donatella's aforementioned new icons, with appearances from Lila Moss and Romeo Beckham on the runway.

Moschino

Creative director Adrian Appiolaza channeled Moschino's unique sense of humour for autumn/winter 2025. A rubbish bag dress, a spaghetti covered bag and smiley-face motifs were all seen on the runway. However, the collection started off in a somewhat muted way as Appiolaza was inspired by Franco Moschino’s 1992 Mannequin dress, whose design is taken from the Stockman dressmaker’s dummy. Deconstructed blazers, waistcoats and outerwear all appeared in charcoal grey, with exposed white stitching and needles pinned to lapels.

Etro

Etro's autumn/winter 2025 show was bursting with prints, colour and fur. Creating a free-spirited, boho-style look, creative director Marco De Vincenzo was inspired by the materials themselves and used them as the starting point for the collection. Other inspirations included Ancient Egyptian gods and the work of writer and artist William Burroughs.

Roberto Cavalli

Things were hotting up at the Roberto Cavalli show — rather literally. Entitled 'Pompeii Future' creative director Fausto Puglisi was inspired by the ancient Roman city which was buried by a volcanic eruption in 79 AD. Lava prints were splashed across dresses, skirts and separates, and stones were crafted into precious buttons punctuating outerwear and jackets. The collection "is a journey into the past, projected into the future, celebrating the eternal value of art and creativity". Lush garden prints balanced the heat of the lava and red velvet, blooming across shirt dresses and breezy kaftans.

MM6 Maison Margiela

MM6 Maison Margiela is the diffusion line to Maison Margiela, and started out in 1997. For Autumn/Winter 2025 it leaned strongly on the house codes — every model wore a pair of dark, visor-style sunglasses, likely a reference to the anonymity of the house's founder. Silhouettes were oversized and exaggerated, with broad shoulders and wide legs running throughout the collection. These were balanced by skin-tight mesh tops, worn by both women and men with nothing underneath. Figure-hugging trompe l'oeil dresses sat alongside voluminous, padded coats, for a collection that consistently played with proportions.

Emporio Armani

The stakes were high at Emporio Armani's show yesterday. Playing card motifs in bright colours featured throughout the collection — on outerwear, silk shirts and scarves, dresses and puffball skirts. Card replicas were seen peeking out of suit jacket pockets and wide belt waistbands. Elsewhere there was plenty of velvet and sharp tailoring, with an emphasis on black and grey shades.

Max Mara

Max Mara's Autumn/Winter 2025 show was a masterclass in head-to-toe tonal dressing. Rich burgundy, soft brown, cool khaki and jet black progressed throughout the show, making for bold and put-together outfits. Creative director Ian Griffiths was inspired by the writing of the Brontë sisters, and this could be seen in the full-length pleated skirts, billowing cape jackets and fitted waistcoats.

Marni

Francesco Risso is a visionary designer. Helming Marni since 2016, the house has become synonymous with his art-infused storytelling and craftsmanship. The brand's AW25 show took place in its headquarters, dressed as a cabaret room and complete with a score by Dev Heynes. Risso collaborated with Nigerian artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend to decorate the space, and this spirit ran throughout the collection. Bright colours, hand painted motifs and plenty of fur ran throughout, with a surprise cameo from Tracee Ellis Ross at the show's end.

Diesel

Glenn Martens always does things at Diesel in his own unique way, and this season was no different. The show was held against a backdrop of the "biggest ever known" graffiti installation, with over three kilometres of graffiti fabric made by a global street art collective of around 7,000 amateur and expert artists. “I love that thousands of people around the world have worked together to create the set design. We gave the global street art collective complete creative freedom – they expressed themselves each in their own way, on a project that’s taken months to achieve. This is the true democracy of Diesel,” said Martens in the show notes. The clothes were as bold as the artwork, with unexpected fabrics and colour clashes providing a visual feast for guests.

Jil Sander

Just hours after the show, it was confirmed that Luke and Lucie Meier — the husband and wife duo who took over as joint creative directors of the German fashion house in 2017 — were exiting Jil Sander. Putting that to one side, this was one of their strongest collections to date. The all-black runway providing the perfect backdrop for the interesting pops of colour and variety of textures which ran throughout the collection — think leather, fur, feathers and satin. It felt exciting without being over the top, staying true to the minimalist roots of the house.

Dsquared2

Dsquared2 closed out the first day of MFW with a huge bang, celebrating the brand's 30th anniversary with a show entitled 'Obsessed2'. The set resembled a New York street, with limos, yellow cabs and pick-up trucks arriving to drop off various models — the first of which being rapper Doechii. It was an over-the-top, star-studded show, with the likes of Alex Consani, Irina Shayk, Amelia Gray and Tyson Beckford all walking the runway. Naomi Campbell then appeared with a big, teased out hairdo, wearing a leather bodysuit and boots, personifying the sexy and liberated attitude of the Dsquared2 brand. The finale saw the Caten twins (founders of the brand) being arrested by Brigitte Nielsen, before breaking free for a raucous after party with performances from Doechii and JT.

Onitsuka Tiger

Onitsuka Tiger's Autumn/Winter collection was titled 'Urban Duality', and inspired by the city of Tokyo where tradition and modernity collide. The looks were a total culture-clash of references, from Brit-pop style neck ties and parka jackets to Western embroidery details on shirts and jackets. Footwear and accessories, including the brand's iconic Mexico 66 model, were covered in studs for a nod to punk.

No.21

For AW25, Alessandro Dell’Acqua was inspired by Sofia Coppola films such as Marie Antoinette, The Virgin Suicides and Lost In Translation. Bows, flowers and feathers featured throughout the collection, giving it an ultra-feminine feel. This was balanced by more practical outerwear in the form of duffel coats, barn jackets and oversized pea coats.

Philipp Plein

Returning to 'The Plein Hotel' this season, the brand presented a Wild West inspired collection with plenty of bold and classic silhouettes. Incorporating modern motifs like sequins and animal print, and merging them with sultry takes on rodeo shirts, leather jackets, and evening wear. Accessories consisted of XL bags, utilitarian boots and cowboy hats. The dazzling collection included 51 different looks mixing women and menswear that firmly cemented that the craze for Western fashion isn't going anywhere.

Casadei

Drawing inspiration from Cesare Casadei's favourite cultural moments, Casadei's AW25 collection champions women and their strength by expressing their own identities through design. Featuring striking leopard prints, sophisticated bruciato suede, and playful boots with regal motifs like capes and shearling. Casadei's autumn/winter offerings are full of passion, tradition, and innovative designs that celebrate the Casadei woman through and through.

Elisabetta Franchi

Reimagining the sleek minimalism commonly associated with the '90s, Elisabetta Franchi's Autumn/Winter 2025 collection touched on elegant motifs like midi skirts and knitwear while juxtaposing them with different textures and materials like sequins and denim. This was also seen through the show's styling, with faux leather blazers and jackets paired with elegant knits and sensual skirts to celebrate the multifaceted woman.

“This collection is a tribute to the strength and freedom of women who are unafraid to express themselves, who embrace their sensuality with confidence and determination," says creative director Elisabetta Franchi.

Rene Caovilla

Celebrating 'The Golden Era' this season is all about glamour for Rene Caovilla. Defined by intricate craftsmanship and handmade detailings, the collection includes the brand's iconic Cleo silhouette with the introduction of new flat models, a sleek mule, and a slingback. Coming in purple, orange, gray, and gold colourways, it's perfect for those looking for new-season staples that are equally as timeless as they are stylish.