Time to wise up on your acids
Exfoliating acids like glycolic acid have surged in popularity in the last few years; you may have heard some of the hype, but aren’t quite sure what it’s all about. Luckily for you, we’re well acquainted with skincare acids and their incredible complexion-boosting benefits.
Intrigued? Read on for everything you need to know about this wonder ingredient, plus the products that team Marie Claire swears by.
What is glycolic acid?
‘Glycolic acid is one of the smallest molecules of the alpha-hydroxy acid family, meaning it is water-soluable and penetrates deeply into the skin,’ explains Mark Curry, co-founder of The Inkey List. ‘Our glycolic acid comes from sugar cane.
‘It penetrates deeply into the skin and “un-glues” dead skin cells and removes them from the skin, making skin brighter and evening out skin tone – all while encouraging new cells to appear.
‘This is a high-impact formula excellent for ageing skin, acne-prone skin and uneven skin. It’s suitable for all skin types, but those with sensitive skin need to start with just using it once or twice a week and build up from there.’
Glycolic acid peels
Max-strength chemical peels, in the traditional sense of the word, are performed by a professional, but you can buy some less powerful (and less expensive), 15-minute treatments that you can do in the comfort of your own home.
These usually contain an active ingredient of glycolic or lactic acid, or combination of AHAs, usually around the 10% mark. Try Lancer’s Caviar Lime Acid Peel, which also contains retinol for an anti-ageing boost, or Superdrug Naturally Radiant Glycolic Overnight Peel for a lower price point.
These usually cause a slight warming sensation on the face, so don’t be alarmed that you’re having a bad reaction if your face starts to tingle or if there’s some redness after using. Remember: Tingling not burning – if it’s seriously painful then rinse from your face immediately.
Glycolic acid toner
AHA toners leave your skin brighter and fresher looking as they slough off pore-blocking dead skin cells from the surface. If you choose to use one in the morning rather than at night time, remember to always follow up with a high-factor SPF, as the freshly-revealed skin underneath will be more sensitive.
The Inkey List’s products are often out of stock because they’re so popular and affordable, but at the moment it’s even harder to get your hands on the Glycolic Acid Liquid Toner (£6.99) thanks to increased online shopping habits. Keep your eye out on Cult Beauty, Feelunique and Boots to try and bag it when it’s back in stock.
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Dr Dennis Gross’ Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel are pre-soaked pads and a great choice for gentle exfoliation on a daily basis – start with the ‘Ultra Gentle’ version if you’re a bit apprehensive or have sensitive skin.
Acid solutions should be introduced to your skin gradually. Start with once a week with a lower acid concentration exfoliant, then build your way up to as much as every evening if you feel necessary.
Keep scrolling for team Marie Claire‘s favourite and most effective products that we always keep in our bathroom cabinets.
Pixi Glow Tonic, £18, Lookfantastic
Glow Tonic is one of the most recognisable glycolic exfoliating toners on the market, a gentle formula containing no oil. It's alcohol free, meaning those with sensitive skin tend to get on well with it too.
Drunk Elephant TLC Framboos Glycolic Night Serum, £76, Cult Beauty
Yes, the price tag is pretty hefty, but if this is the kind of money you spend on your skincare you won't be disappointed. It contains a blend of alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids, including glycolic – apply a thin layer before bed and you'll wake looking like you've had an incredible night's sleep. Think brighter, more radiant skin.
Dr Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel, from £19, Space NK
This wonder peel contains five different types of AHAs and BHAs to reveal radiance and smooth the complexion on the daily. The treatment comes in two parts: The exfoliating first step, followed by an anti-ageing neutraliser. Worried about sensitivity? There's a more gentle option on offer, as well as a more intensive version for seasoned skincare acid pros.
Ren Glycol Lactic Radiance Renewal Mask, £36, Lookfantastic
A fruity concoction for your skin, this fast-acting mask works to slough away dead skin cells and reveal radiant skin underneath. It's a bit like slathering lemon curd all over your face - just, you know, far better for your skin.
Alpha-H Liquid Gold, £33.50, ASOS
One of the most popular liquid exfoliants on the market, Liquid Gold has earnt itself cult status. As well as glycolic acid, it also contains licorice, a great anti-inflammatory agent. It definitely tingles upon application so you can feel it working, but skin feels soft afterwards.
Kate Somerville Exfolikate Cleanser, from £16, Cult Beauty
This fruity cleanser contains pumpkin, papaya and pineapple for a glycolic and lactic wash. It's super creamy, foaming very slightly for a really satisfying clean; we found that skin'x texture looked better after just one use.
Lancer Caviar Lime Acid Peel, £90, Net-a-Porter
Favoured by Kim Kardashian and Victoria Beckham, this citrus mask is great for an instant hit of radiance when you're looking for a pre-party quick fix. Very tingly at first, it dies down as the leaves your skin with that soft, fresh, baby face feeling.
