One of my gripes about working in the beauty industry is how misunderstood it is. While it has long been perceived as frivolous, it is one of the most booming (and profitable) industries in the world, and it's also an innovator when it comes to tech. In fact, some of the best scientists in the world are working on how to improve the quality of our skin—and given that it is the biggest organ in the body, I'd argue it's a pretty worthwhile endeavour.
I've written about it before, but cutting-edge skincare treatments have acted as a form of social currency for some time; with the likes of polynucleotide injections, advanced lasers and exosomes becoming the treatments du jour for those craving that "glass skin" look, with a side of "quiet luxury". These treatments aren't overt; in fact, the goal is for them to be pretty much invisible—save for practically luminescent and poreless skin.
For the most part, my skin doesn't give me too much chagrin, and these days, I'm more focused on refinement, so working my way towards the utopian goal of never needing to wear heavy foundation or concealer. After speaking to numerous dermatologists and aesthetic practitioners, I was sold on exosomes, which promised to deliver exactly that. But as someone who rarely dabbles in anything more than a fancy serum, I wanted to put my trust in someone whose approach I resonated with, so I opted for London-based aesthetics doctor and Korean skincare expert, Dr Christine Hall. Read on to see how I fared, as well as everything you need to know about getting the treatment yourself.
What are exosomes?
Now, this took me some time to get to grips with, but essentially, exosomes occur naturally in our cells, particularly stem cells. They are released by each cell to communicate and interact with bioactive molecules such as proteins, lipids, and RNA. In essence, they are tiny but powerful messengers that play a vital role in cell-to-cell communication, promoting tissue regeneration, healing, and cellular repair.
In an aesthetic capacity, Dr Hall explains, "Exosomes can help stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation, and accelerate the healing of damaged tissues, making them particularly beneficial in the recovery process of aesthetic treatments designed to address the signs of ageing, post-inflammatory pigmentation, and even scarring."
How can you have exosomes administered?
How you can administer exosome therapy varies depending on your location. In the UK, it is highly regulated and human-derived exosome injections are prohibited due to concerns of safety and disease transmission. The only approved uses include topical administration, commonly during or after treatments that create microchannels in the skin, such as microneedling, laser, or radiofrequency.
In the USA, however, things are a little more complicated. Although the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has not approved any exosome products for consumers, it is routinely performed, often as an injectable, which is illegal in the UK.
What happens during exosome therapy?
After speaking with Dr Hall, I decided to go with her preferred method, which is applying exosomes to the skin's surface during and immediately after using the SkinPen microneedling tool.
My journey began with an initial 10-minute consultation at Dr Hall's TakTouk clinic in Mayfair. There, I told her about my skin, concerns, and she advised whether I was a suitable candidate (which I was). You are always given a cool-off period, so you can decide whether you want to go ahead.
On the day of the treatment, I had a thick numbing cream applied for 30 minutes before the procedure to stop any pain or discomfort. Then, during the treatment, the SkinPen allows the exosomes to penetrate deep into the dermis as the tool creates thousands of micro-punctures to stimulate natural collagen production. As the doctor elaborates, "Exosomes are used as a ‘glide’ to help the device move freely over the skin. Immediately after, we apply the remaining exosome serum, which penetrates deeply through these channels to begin its regenerative work
How long is the treatment?
Personally, I was in and out within 40 minutes—so 30 minutes for the numbing, and 10 for the treatment itself. However, Dr Hall advises leaving 60 minutes from arriving to leaving the clinic to allow for the signing of consent forms and everything else.
Does it hurt?
Thanks to the numbing cream, the procedure is largely painless. However, I did experience some discomfort on certain, more sensitive parts on my face, including my chin, and around my mouth and forehead. However, this varies from person to person, and you will likely only experience a vibration sensation from the SkinPen device itself.
What happens after the treatment?
"Your skin may appear red, similar to a mild sunburn, and feel slightly warm or tight," says Dr Hall. "This is completely normal and usually subsides within a few hours to a few days, depending on how deep and intense the treatment has been, all of which will depend on your specific skin concerns and lifestyle, taking into account the downtime you have available."
Personally, I have very sensitive skin, and I did look rather lobster-like straight after, with red splotches and "track marks" over certain areas. The redness faded considerably by the next day, and I was able to cover the remaining marks easily with make-up. As Dr Hall continues: "Most patients experience redness for 24-48 hours, 72 hours maximum, but you can usually return to work or social activities the next day with some light coverage if needed. For more intensive treatments, following the redness, the skin can peel very lightly, but this is less noticeable and easily resolved with moisturiser."
On the latter point, I found my skin was very dry and tight to the touch. I required a pretty heavy-duty, but non-irritating moisturiser, and opted for thick lashings of The Inkey List's Omega Water Cream for the day (before SPF) and Tata Harper's Creme Riché for the evening. This was based on Dr Hall's advice, she recommended using gentle, non active skincare. "Opt for a fragrance-free hydrating cleanser, soothing serums containing ingredients like hyaluronic acid or centella asiatica, a barrier-repairing moisturiser, and a broad-spectrum SPF 50. It’s important to avoid retinoids, acids, and any exfoliants for at least 7 days following the treatment," she adds.
When will you start noticing improvements?
After all the redness and final botches had faded, which took about three days, I found that my skin started peeling around the 5-day mark, especially around my mouth and cheekbones. This was easily managed with moisturiser, and as soon as it stopped a couple of days later, I started seeing real improvements. My scarring and pigmentation were less noticeable, and overall, my skin looked clearer; my pores had all but vanished, and everything appeared somewhat textureless. This was just after one session, so I'm definitely keen to go back for more, considering how easy the entire experience was.
"Many patients begin to notice a glow within a few days, with 10 days being the time when I tell my patients that they will probably see the most glow," Dr Hall agrees. "More significant improvements, such as smoother texture, reduced fine lines, and brighter tone, become visible within 2-4 weeks, with continued improvement over 2–3 months as collagen production increases."
When can you go back to your normal skincare routine?
"You can resume most of your usual skincare within a week," says Dr Hall. "Exercise can be resumed after 24 hours, and make-up after 48 hours, but always check with your practitioner based on your skin’s response and your specific skin care routine."
Do's and don'ts?
Dr Hall says: "After your treatment, it's important to keep your skin clean—try not to touch it and stay well-hydrated, use high-quality sun protection daily, follow your practitioner’s aftercare plan, and treat your skin gently—patting rather than rubbing. For the first week at least, avoid harsh products or active ingredients, do not pick or exfoliate any peeling skin, and steer clear of direct heat sources such as saunas, steam rooms, or hot yoga for at least 48 hours. Skipping SPF is a major no. Daily sun protection is absolutely essential post-treatment."
