Achieving perfect eyeliner for your eyes is about more than just using the right product.
It’s also about trying out different techniques until you know what suits your shape, and then practising so you get it just so. And then, of course, it’s about the perfect liner to complement what you want for your eyes and style.
For the Autumn Winter 2020-2021 Ready-To-Wear Collection, Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Make-up, created three variations of black eyeliner looks to enhance the personality of each of the models. “I emphasised the models’ eyes by taking each girl’s style, as well as her eye and face shape into consideration,” says Philips.
Here are his tips to getting the liner look for your shape:
Almost any liner style suits almond-shaped eyes that normally have a very slight upswept outer corner on the bottom rim of the eyes.
Technique: "With Diorshow On Stage Liner 091 Matte Black, £27.50, or Diorshow Kohl in 099 Black, £22, I chose to line the eye just on the lower lash lines,” says Philips. Begin with a thin line from the lower inside corner, glide along the inner two-thirds and once you reach the outer third, start to build the thickness up and repeat on the other side. Try using a soft eyeliner, which you can smudge for a more sultry look.
Round eyes are usually large, and circular. There is more white of the eye visible than any other shape, particularly below the irises. You can choose to either enhance the shape or to elongate by using liner.
Technique: “I created a look drawing two strong lines at the outer corners of each eyelid, without stretching them outwards too far,” says Philips. “If the lashes were pale, I added a light coat of Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara in 090 Black, £28, for a uniform look. Last of all, I took time to intensify brows quite strongly with Diorshow Brow Styler, £22 and Diorshow Pump ’N’ Brow, £23.50. Join both lines together at the outer corner and make this a little thicker by smudging liner outwards. The key is to extend the liner outwards, towards the temples, as opposed to creating an upward flick if you want to make your eyes appear a little elongated.
Hooded eyes have a fold in the skin that can rest on part of the lower eyelid. Minimal liner can be used to give the illusion of more open eyes.
Technique:: Some models wore liner just through the upper waterline using Matte Black or Diorshow Kohl in 099 Black, £22. This gives the look of eyeliner, but will leave the eyelid free of a dark shade, which will help open the eyes. Look down and swipe the eyeliner very gently across the upper waterline. Allow the eyeliner to dry. Curl eyelashes to help open the eye further and coat with Diorshow Iconic Overcurl Mascara in 090 Black, £28.
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An award-winning health and beauty writer, stylist and creative director, Lisa Oxenham is one of the UK’s top beauty editors and the Beauty and Style Director at Marie Claire UK. With 20 years of editorial experience Lisa is a brand partnership expert, and a popular speaker, panelist and interviewer on a range of topics from sustainability to the future of beauty in the digital world. She recently spoke at Cognition X and Beauty Tech Live and is on the Advisory Board for the British Beauty Council’s Sustainable Beauty Coalition.
A well-respected creative director she works on celebrity, model and influencer shoots with the highest calibre of photographers, filmmakers, make-up artists and hairstylists to create timeless images, attention-grabbing videos, digital events and masterclasses. Most recently Lisa has directed covers such as Lily Cole and Jameela Jamil, films such as Save The Arts featuring Francesca Hayward and sustainable fashion shoots such as Be The Change. Supporting the beauty industry over the pandemic has been a top focus, directing the British Beauty Council’s six inspirational short biographical films for their Bring Back Beauty campaign.