As the perfume industry has boomed in the past few years, olfactory lovers have been treated to all manner of breakthrough acts—from niche, indie scents to unexpected celebrity collaborations. It's certainly been a bumper year for it all, and so without further ado, meet the winners of the "breakthrough acts" category of our inaugural Marie Claire Fragrance Awards.
Want to see the rest of the winners? Don't forget to check out our roundup of our favourite breakthrough acts, classic perfumes, fragrance families, and lifestyle picks.
How are fragrances tested and judged?
The Fragrance Awards have been judged by an esteemed panel of industry experts, bringing together the sharpest noses and most discerning voices in beauty—from industry-leading Marie Claire UK editors to renowned fragrance specialists: Alice de Parcq, Clémence Pellé, Nicola Bonn and Suzy Nightingale. Judges tested the scents and provided scores based on perfume family, innovation, longevity and packaging.
WINNER: Best Collaboration
Perhaps one of the most divisive scents in the room, Acne Studios par Frédéric Malle marks the collaboration between the French perfume publisher and the house's creative director and founder, Jonny Johansson. Drawing on their shared passions for photography, architecture, culture and design, they recruited perfume prodigy Suzy Le Helley to create a fragrance heavy on aldehydes, but tempered with florals, vanilla, creamy sandalwood, and peach skin. "It was a stand-out launch," says Alice du Parcq. "The soapy, posh-dry-cleaner's vibe is a masterclass in white-t-shirt fragrance composition."
WINNER: Best Disruptor
It's impossible not to have an opinion on Vyrao's Mamajuju. Aiming to evoke a feeling of deep grounding while invigorating the senses, to team Marie Claire, it was reminiscent of freshly cut grass and earth that had just been soaked by rain—but it will undoubtedly spark something unique for each wearer. Mamajuju features notes of Australian sandalwood, which is layered with saffron, cumin, nutmeg, cardamon and pink pepper, which the brand says heightens focus and self-esteem—but this is one you definitely need to smell yourself. It's an experience.
Best New Fragrance - Indie
This woody, floral is so unique that it quickly became a favourite amongst the judging panel. Described as a "defiant floral fragrance with unexpected contrasts", top notes include a reinvigorating green spice, which has real depth as the fragrance wears on the skin and becomes more herby. Later on, there are whiffs of magnolia leaf, which result in something decidedly woody and sumptuous.
WINNER: Best Extension
What fragrance lover doesn't have a soft spot for Marc Jacobs' iconic Daisy? Created in 2007 and followed by 20 different iterations, the Wild edition is notable in its own right. The refillable perfume keeps the classic Daisy design, but smells like a fresh, zingy wildflower bouquet. Crafted to encourage wearers to reconnect with nature and embody their young, free-spirited selves, it's a heady mix of banana blossom accord, jasmine, macadamia, sandalwood, vetiver and des sables. "The design details are showstopping, and the scent experience is instantly smile-inducing," comments Alice du Parcq.
WINNER: Best Niche Fragrance
An unconventional, unisex floral fragrance, indie sweetheart Maison Louis Marie was created by nose Marie du Petit Thouars. It's immediately unmistakable with opening notes of jasmine, blood grapefruit and mandarin leaf, while middle notes of plum, Bulgarian rose and osmanthus shine through, before drying down into an enveloping gauze of patchouli, vanilla flower and cherry blossom. Just delicious.
WINNER: Team Favourite
Ever since it launched, Zepherine has had team Marie Claire in a chokehold. Overwhelmingly lush, with sparky notes of fig, the scent, which was created by Frank Voelkl, is balanced with cypress, clove, patchouli, and dries down into a smoky, creamy wood. The packaging is worth a shout-out out too. As Suzy Nightingale puts it: "It's beautifully designed, immediately recognisable... Unusual, yet so 'Liberty'".
WINNER: Best Fragrance Campaign
Let's be real, any campaign that has Rihanna in it is bound to be a winner. The singer and beauty entrepreneur was named the face of the legendary perfume—which is renowned for its heady solar and floral notes, and was composed by legendary perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, back in 1999.
WINNER: Best New Fragrance - Luxury
While Chanel is known for its classic scents, the house has continued to innovate with the superlative release of COMÈTE Les Exclusifs de Chanel. As Alice du Parcq enthuses: "The texture and depth of this scent is outstanding, and the longevity was beyond expected for such a delicate scent." Created by CHANEL's in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, you can expect notes of fresh cherry blossom accord tangled with sensual notes of iris and heliotrope.
Best New Fragrance - Men's
Penhaligon's never fails to delight and create whole worlds within their olfactory creations. As Alice du Parcq says of our award winner for Best New Fragrance - Men's: "Here there's fantastic storytelling and scene-setting for a unique, surprising and brilliantly-made scent." A boozy concoction, this blend features notes of raspberry and bergamot, as well as ambrox, oak, cedarwood, and smoke.
WINNER: Best Innovation
From the packaging to the quality of the notes, Soleil d'Ikosim harnesses the solar energy of punchy orange blossom. In what feels like a powerful ray, this floral gourmand has an impressive oil concentration of 18 per cent, and begins with notes of orange blossom, before unfolding into neroli and vetiver. It's a real joy, and ideal for the high summer months.
