The fashionable feast for the eyes kicks off on Sunday
When Jennifer Lawrence walked the Golden Globes red carpet in 2013 in a beautiful red gown she infamously responded to reporters’ ‘Who are you wearing?’ with: ‘Christian Dior Haute Couture—I don’t know what it means, but I had to say it.’ It’s a sad but true fact that in recent years, couture has seemed somewhat on the rocks.
Back in its heyday, there were 106 fashion designers who showed during couture week, today there are less than 20. Plus, it’s got the ever-growing, grand-scale Cruise shows to compete with, which have already flown fashion editors to far flung destinations from Cuba and Rio, to watch the Chanel and Louis Vuitton’s shows respectively this year.
Couture is the most tightly-policed division of the fashion industry. Ever since British designer Charles Worth founded the schedule’s governing body, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, in 1868, only a handful of brands have made the cut. This season however, they’ve taken a bold new direction and have invited five brilliant guest designers to join the prestigious calendar of events.
In a shake up of epic proportions, and for the first time in a long time, there’s a huge amount of anticipation for couture; heavily directed at Vetements’ debut show. What business does the rogue brand have on a schedule that is is intended for only the most esteemed and storied luxury labels - including established regulars Chanel, Valentino and Versace?
This bold move may be just what couture needs to remain relevant in an industry that demands constant newness. Can these buzzy guest appointments help to wipe away the stuffiness surrounding haute couture? Read on to get up to speed on what’s in store for the new look Paris Haute Couture schedule before it all kicks off on Sunday July 3. And stay tuned next week for our round up of the biggest talking points; we’re looking at you Mr. Lagerfeld.
Proenza Schouler autumn/winter 2016 backstage
Resort rookies
Resort presentations and appointments are piling onto the once scarce week. The most exciting addition, this season, are Proenza Schouler, who are making the trip from New York to show their wares in a social-media banned presentation.
Giles spring/summer 2016
Couture newcomers
Guest label Vetements is showing their epic collaboration project (we've got everything you need to know), and Brioni’s newly-appointed creative director, Justin O’Shea, will show a mix of men’s and women’s collections, after just releasing a Metallica-fronted ad campaign earlier this week. Other invitees include Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen, French atelier J. Mendel and Italian designer Francesco Scognamiglio. Alberta Ferretti and Giles Deacon will also show off-schedule shows during the week.