“There’s an expectation that an African designer somehow has to create pieces that ‘look African’”: Eva Omaghomi on Bringing African Design Talent to Harrods

Eva Omaghomi's Instagram bio reads "cultural architect". It's a job description which does justice to an impressive (and ever-expanding) CV, one that includes a stint of 17 years in the Royal Household (Omaghomi's title was director of community engagement for the household of King Charles III and the Queen Consort, and she now serves as an official advisor), as well as founding her own consultancy business, Forster Jones & Associates. Just as important is her latest venture, Brand63Africa, a social enterprise that spotlights the immense breadth of design talent coming out of Africa and its diaspora. Here, Omaghomi speaks to Marie Claire for our latest Women Who Win about what inspired Brand63Africa (hint: the seed was planted on the occasion of the King's Coronation) and why she will always believe in putting community over competition.

Brand63Africa really began with something very unusual. Ahead of the King's Coronation, I wanted to wear something that reflected my African heritage and felt authentic to who I am. I knew there were extraordinary designers creating beautiful clothes across Africa and the diaspora, but I found it surprisingly difficult to actually buy from them in the UK. I persuaded Nelly from the brand Duaba Serwa in Ghana to make something for me. It arrived a few days before the Coronation in a DHL bag and it was wonderful. I wore a Gele (headwrap) and jewellery from Nigeria, an Aspinal bag and put on some Manolo Blahniks and the outfit was perfect; African and European luxury blended beautifully together.

I love fashion and discovering new designers, and I started asking why, with so much incredible creative talent coming out of Africa, it wasn't easier for consumers, like me, to access these brands. I began researching and speaking to designers and people within the industry, and it became clear that talent and creativity weren't the problem. What was often missing was access—to international retailers, industry expertise, mentorship, investment and the networks that can help turn an extraordinary creative business into a sustainable global one. I've spent much of my career bringing people together and opening doors, so I started thinking about what I could do to help change that and Brand63Africa grew from there.

It was important to me that it was established as a social enterprise because I never wanted to create something that generated a moment of attention and then disappeared. I'm always thinking about longevity and legacy: what happens after the showcase, after the first retail opportunity? If they need it, how do we help these designers build businesses that are still thriving in five, ten or twenty years? We launched at London Fashion Week and now, just months later, our first designer cohort is launching at Harrods. It's incredibly exciting, but I still feel as though we're at the beginning of what Brand63Africa can become.

We wanted the cohort to showcase the breadth and diversity of design talent coming from Africa and its diaspora. Our five designers are incredibly different, each with their own distinctive creative identity, demonstrating that African fashion cannot be defined by a single aesthetic or point of view.

Our curator and creative committee of fashion experts were looking for beautiful design—a strong creative identity, exceptional quality and craftsmanship, and a designer who really knows who they are. But we looked beyond the clothes. Sustainable, responsible production and social impact were important considerations too. Many of our designers work closely with local artisans and communities, preserve specialist skills or create employment through their businesses. We wanted to understand not only what they were making, but how they were making it and the impact their businesses could have.

We were also looking for ambition and the potential to grow internationally. Brand63Africa isn't simply about celebrating creativity; it's about helping designers build sustainable, long-term businesses.

I wouldn't say that African designers are here to fill something that was "missing" creatively from the UK market. I think they're bringing another incredibly rich and exciting perspective to it. That's why the partnership with Harrods is so important. These designers are being presented within one of the world's most prestigious luxury retail environments and considered alongside internationally renowned luxury brands. I want someone to discover one of them and simply think: "That's beautiful. I want to wear it." That's when perceptions really start to change.

[There's an] expectation that an African designer somehow has to create pieces that "look African" based on a very limited view and construct of Africa. Africa isn't one aesthetic, one culture or one story. Heritage can be incredibly powerful when it's authentic to the designer, but it shouldn't become something they feel obliged to perform for an international audience. Our designers draw on their backgrounds in completely different ways. For some it might be a traditional technique, for another a textile, silhouette, memory or way of working. For others it may be much more subtle. I want them to have the freedom to decide what their heritage means within their own creative language. The designer has to remain at the centre of their own story. Global success shouldn't require them to dilute where they come from, but equally their heritage shouldn't become the only thing the industry sees when it looks at their work.

I need to find ways to celebrate success more. I tend to look to the next achievement, which is not the healthiest approach. Sometimes it's great to bask in the moment. When my family say they're proud, that never gets old.

Launching my consultancy, Forster Jones & Associates, and seeing it thrive has made me incredibly proud. It's tough to decide to bet on yourself, especially after 17 years in the Royal Household, but it was worth it. Launching Brand63Africa at London Fashion Week was also very emotional because suddenly something that had existed as an idea became real.

Seeing the designers launch at Harrods is another extraordinary moment. To go from recognising how difficult it could be for consumers to discover and access exceptional African design, to seeing our inaugural cohort presented within one of the world’s most recognised luxury retailers feels incredibly special. I think what makes me proudest is seeing what it means to the designers. This was never about me.

When you're building something you care deeply about, there are inevitably periods when work takes over. What I've learnt is the importance of being present wherever I am. If I'm working, I give it everything, but when I'm with the people I love, I try to genuinely be with them rather than mentally remaining in the next meeting or email. It's a daily challenge. I also listen to my body. It has a great way of giving you small hints to rest or step away or pray or exercise. I try to listen quickly.

I go where you’re celebrated not tolerated. As a black woman founder, it’s important to prioritise your joy and mental health because building isn’t easy. Lean on your community and allies, mind your business and value yourself.

Talent is everywhere, opportunity isn't. Whether we're talking about fashion, business or any other industry, access to the right room, introduction, investment or a mentor can completely alter someone's trajectory. I've benefited throughout my career from extraordinary relationships and from people who have opened doors. I think there's a responsibility, once you find yourself in those rooms, to hold the door open for somebody else.

I'm a great believer in community over competition. Supporting somebody else's success doesn't diminish your own. If we stop thinking only about how I succeed and start thinking about how we create an environment in which more people can succeed, the impact becomes much bigger than any individual achievement. That's how you can create lasting change.

My favourite shop has to be Harrods, of course! And you can shop Brand63Africa on the 5th floor from [now] to 27 October. I’m excited about the upcoming 1-54 African Art Fair and really loved The Music is Black: A British Story exhibition at the new V&A East Museum. Restaurants I love are Gaia in Mayfair and Chishuru and my favourite place for coffee or breakfast is Kensington Roof Gardens.

Visit Brand63Africa at Harrods, 5th Floor, until the 27th of October.