Battling through the melee on day four of New York Fashion Week, no one knew quite what to expect from the grande dame of eminently wearable yet occasionally conservative womenswear. We were in for a treat...
When the Diane Von Furstenberg show opened with a staggeringly gorgeous one-shoulder creation in rich maroon, there were nods of approval all round. The collection continued apace with an array of fabulous frocks that wrapped themselves around models’ bodies, exposing a collarbone here and falling off a shoulder there.
There was a refreshing playfulness to the collection with relaxed kimono pants, draped tops and voluminous coats. Necklines were high, often halter-neck, and athletic looking – reinforcing DVF’s promise that the shoulder will be the erogenous zone of 2012.
As well as russsets and reds, we saw hot pinks paired with teal or acid green and black and white prints – including a hand creeping across a model’s chest in one design.
Textures were just as inspiring and ranged from wet-look patent leather macs to satin blouses, sequins, luxurious lace and tailored black velvet jackets that sucked in light. Leaving Diane Von Furstenberg, one onlooker commented: ‘Recession? What recession.’ Diane Von Furstenberg’s vision for A/W’12 was her most sensual collection in years.