Beyond the beach: exploring Bali’s cultural heartland

Standing outside the Gunung Kai Sebatu Temple, on the outskirts of Ubud, I’m struck by the beauty of its towering stone walls and lush, forest-green foliage. Hawkers hover behind me, offering up patterned pareos and their hand-woven wares, the rising heat of midday pricking at my skin. I quickly learn that I’ll be unable to immerse myself in the purifying turquoise pools that shimmer inside though: tradition states that women who are menstruating (or breastfeeding) aren’t allowed within the inner sanctum of Bali’s sacred shrines. It’s a disappointing curveball.

Yet, like many unexpected travel experiences, one that delivers a truly authentic introduction to the local culture and customs. Because beyond Bali’s honey-hued beaches, hip hotels and poolside bars lies an island that is still largely governed by not only religion and the guiding principles of gratitude and respect, but also some questionable attitudes to gender equality and animal rights (cockfighting is common here and still routinely used in sacrificial ceremonies).

Despite feeling a bit bruised by the rebuffal, it also feels oddly refreshing. Here is a culture unlike my own; a locals’ custom that refuses to bend its knee. After all, isn’t venturing off the beaten tourist track to explore alternative perspectives and panoramas what travelling is really all about? Perhaps that’s a tad optimistic and fanciful, but clawing at the notion of authenticity is a theme that thankfully continues throughout my week-long tour.

A hidden paradise

I’m travelling with Intrepid – a company renowned for its sustainable, small-group, adventure-focused trips – and the stereotypical bar hops and beach flops have been replaced with experiences that capture the cultural heart and heritage of this beautiful Indonesian island.

After initially taking in the kaleidoscopic buzz of Ubud – a busy town studded with Hindu temples and famed for its traditional crafts and Legong dance performances, we head to Mount Batur in Kintamani – a two-hour, boulder-strewn hike that starts at an ungodly 3am and ends at sunrise, 5,500ft above sea level.

Delivering amber-streaked vistas that stretch across the Lombok Strait and out to the majestic peaks of Mount Rinjani, it’s a soul-lifting climb that’s made all the sweeter with a summit-rewarding massage back at base. I book myself in for a full body reset at Inka – a heavenly, Aesop-like spa situated near Ubud Village Hotel – and let the lavender-infused oils restore my aching calves. Authentically Balinese? Not so much. But it proves utterly blissful nonetheless.

The heritage-filled homestay

Arguably the most restorative experience is yet to come though: my homestay in Karangasem’s Sibetan Village, near the foothills of Mount Agung. Nestled in 30 miles from the hustle and bustle of Ubud, deep in the island’s rice terraces and banyan-rich forests, lies Bali’s largest salak plantation – a 10km-square fruit farm and village that delivers a slice of traditional Balinese life. Having opened up its doors to tourists five years ago, paying guests are now invited into villager’s homes to experience their customs, culture and cuisine; to discover a simpler, rural existence couldn’t be further from the tourist-ridden beaches of Kuta and Canggu.

My host for the stay is a petite mum of three called Armini – or ‘Mini’, who, it turns out has a passion for looking after a big brood. I’m soon introduced to her dogs Momo, Terri and Moco; cats Mimi, Mini and Minu; a coterie of clucking chickens, roosters and caged birds; and finally her husband Komang Ada and their beautiful 15-year-old daughter, Komang Ayi, who still resides in the family home and speaks an impressive amount of English.

The welcome here is warm; the double bedroom clean and simple; the strong cups of coffee and plates of fresh snake fruit, rice and mango welcome. Initially it’s awkward: ‘Mini’ doesn’t speak English; I don’t speak Balinese, but, with the help of Komang Ayi, we soon find some middle ground. We pet the cats, marvel at the beauty of the birds and swiftly move onto what motivates Mini to keep welcoming strangers into her home. “Guests become family to me,” she says warmly as a wedge of warm midday sun hits the centre of her beautifully arranged courtyard. “I love meeting new people and… honestly? I actually love showing my house off,” she laughs.

Later, we round the evening off with a hearty salak soup, sunset views over the surrounding forests and a melodic rindik performance – a traditional Balinese instrument featuring bamboo tubes suspended in a wooden frame. It’s all very rustic and homely and tribal, and I wonder if this is a nightly routine? Their sole source of entertainment? “Oh no,” Adit – our enthusiastic village tour guide for the day – laughs. “We love karaoke – we’re always lining up Alan Walker songs.”

And there it is again: a refreshing dose of authenticity. Because no matter how many bike rides through scenic rice fields you book (check out Dewa Bikes for the best routes around Ubud) or traditional village homestays you hit, Bali is an island suspended between its past and present – and I’m just glad I got beyond the tourist-trap beaches to meet both.

Intrepid Travel offers 11 trips to Bali ranging from family to adventure. This trip combined experiences from Beautiful Bali (9 days, from £660pp) and Premium Bali and Java (11 days, from £2,575pp). Prices include accommodation, ground transport, selected meals, and activities. International flights are extra. Book at intrepidtravel.com; 0808 274 5111.