Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025: The Highlights
The sartorial lowdown
Following on from London Fashion Week, the shows at Milan Fashion Week are underway, ready to showcase the Spring/Summer 2025 collections from our favourite Italian houses.
The Marie Claire team is on the ground, bringing you all the highlights from the catwalks – and a sneak peek of next season's trends.
Etro
For Spring/Summer 2025, the Etro woman is all about the journey. It's about celebrating every moment and living life to its fullest. Naturally, her wardrobe matches. It exudes confidence and fun, with a riot of colour, shapes and print.
Florals for spring are generally thought of as the opposite of groundbreaking, but in Marco De Vincenzo's hands, they told a compelling story.
Etro's latest offering featured intarsia knits with giant blooms, intricately embroidered dresses with peekaboo panels, and the house's flower-printed silks, crafted into ruffle-front dresses, fishtail skirts and '70s-style shirts.
Roberto Cavalli
This was the first Roberto Cavalli show since the designer's passing, and it was suitably noteworthy. Fausto Puglisi tapped supermodels Eva Herzigova, Mariacarla Boscono, Alek Wek, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, Karen Elson, and Natasha Poly to model seven killer evening dresses in the show's finale. In black leather and zebra-striped chiffon, with thigh-high splits and frothy ruffles, these frocks exemplified the unabashed sexiness the house of known for.
There were also enough sleek looks in cream to satisfy even the most print-averse, accessorised with futuristic, wrap-around shades and ankle-strap mules. Think form-fitting mini dresses with flowing maxi coats and slouchy suit trousers with a navel-baring jacket.
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No. 21
When moodboarding for No. 21's Spring/Summer '25 show, Creative Director Alessandro Dell'Acqua looked at photographs of '60s music groupies by Karlheinz Weinberger.
The result was an army of very chic modettes in hand-sequinned dresses, boxy jackets and pencil skirts, all styled with pointed slingback and ballet flats. A coral, duchesse-satin dress coat is now firmly on my wish list, along with the extra-long stripy scarves.
Fendi
Creative Director Kim Jones kicked off proceedings with a Spring/Summer 2025 collection that has me dreaming of Spring already. One thing is certain: sheer pieces aren't going anywhere. From the art deco-inspired, drop-waist sheer dresses to the bejewelled tops, sheer trousers and embroidered pencil skirts, sheer pieces accounted for half of the looks modelled on the catwalk. Elsewhere, pops of icy blue punctuated a subdued colour palette of beige, white and black, giving shirts and tailoring a fresh twist for Spring. An asymmetric scarf dress layered over satin trousers was a particular highlight.
Jil Sander
At Jil Sander, Creative Directors Lucie and Luke Meier created a collection that was strong and defiant – a reflection of how we want to dress in the current climate.
Frills and frippery were eschewed for sleek, boxy silhouettes and a whole lot of black and white. Loud pops of colour were delivered via graphic prints featuring neon lights, cars and motel rooms, taken from the photos of Greg Girard.
It was all gloriously wearable, and I can't quite get the starchy high-neck top and car-print pencil skirt look off my mind.
Alberta Ferretti
There's no denying Alberta Ferretti is queen of the diaphanous, gorgeously feminine chiffon dress – a piece that so many designers are trying their hand at as we find outside in the midst of a boho revival. Rather than rebel, the designer leant into what she does best with a collection of beautifully wispy dresses in white, petrol-blue and marigold-orange. And we're so glad she did.
For daytime, Ferretti turned to crisp cottons, crafting perfect shirt dresses and flirty, bubble-hem frocks that were styled with strappy flats. There were some lovely, loosely-tailored coords, too – a buttermilk-and-white striped short suit, and a slouchy shirt-and-trouser set in off-white. One wouldn't have trouble finding an opportunity to wear any of these looks.
Dolce and Gabbana
Channeling some of the most glamorous blondes, Dolce and Gabbana's Spring/Summer 2025 show was all things cone bras, silk, and pin-up dresses. With Madonna hereslf in attendance seemingly mouthing "I want everything" to the designers as they made their final walk. This show seamlessly weaved the sartorial elegance Milan Fashion Week is known for with classic pop culture references.
Models walking down the runway were seen paying homage to the singer's Blond Ambition era with bras peeking out of trench coats and plenty of cone bras. Other equally as dramatic pieces included pin stripe tailored suits with matching corsetry, and masterfully crafted signature sheer dresses. Drama, elegance, and glamour a plenty.
Versace
A different yet equally exciting take was seen at Versace's Spring/Summer 2025 show, where the '70s came in full swing. The brand, which is known for its evening wear take on glamour with sequins, cutouts, and a Milanese sexy allure, pared it back this season with muted tones of purple, brown, denim and red with some otherwise classic staples, including a masterfully 3D printed dress in a vivid yellow gold.
Tod's
Crafsmanship was a key focus for Tod's Spring/Summer 2025. With a live demonstration of 60 artisans showing how the Gomino shoe is assembled from start to finish. Drawing inspiration from the Mediterranean coast, creative director Matteo Tamburini chose to exemplify premium materials and sohisticated silhouettes that embody timeless elegance. Neutral hues paying homage to sand, grass, stones, and the ocean came to life in the form of parkas, trench coats, asymmetrical tops and cinched in jackets.
Diesel
Diesel and denim have a long history. Since the brand's inception in 1978, it has been working on elevating denim in different iterations, from distressing to micro lengths and fringing. This season, the brand decided to focus on circularity, a key focus for Diesel's future. Using 14,800 kilograms of denim scraps to create an immersive show that has since been cleared and repurposed, the brand focuses on the beauty of waste.
This season's offerings include sweatshirts, mini dresses, tank tops with distressed necklines and plenty of denim. Continuing with the theme of circularity, the brand also opted to use repurposed materials like archival Diesel bandana prints for draped knotted dresses and tops.
MM6
MM6 presented its Spring/Summer 2025 collection with new-season offerings, including contemporary, pared-down neutral garments for the everyday person looking for classic, elevated pieces. The brand also featured key emblematic prints across T-shirts in backing of the original AIDS message, used to continue pushing for fashion's role in raising awareness and creating support.
Penny Goldstone is the Contributing Fashion Editor at Marie Claire UK. She writes about catwalk trends and the latest high street and Instagram sartorial must-haves. She also helms the Women Who Win franchise.
She has worked in fashion for over 10 years, contributing to publications such as Cosmopolitan, Red, Good Housekeeping, and Stylist.