'Muscle-relaxing' serums are on the rise—but can they *actually* deliver Botox-like results? We investigate...

Botox is one of the most popular aesthetic treatments of all time, with an estimated 900,000 injections carried out in the UK each year. We've seen a number of Botox-related beauty trends rise to fame in the past few years alone—from jelly roll Botox to Barbie Botox.

But, what happens when a number of topical, over-the-counter skincare products arrive and promise similar results? Can a topical face serum really deliver the same line-diminishing results as a few Botox injections or is it all just snake oil? To get to the bottom of it, I've delved into the issue. 

The rise of 'Botox in a bottle' products

Being a beauty editor means recognising thematic trends across product launches, and, in my opinion, Spring/Summer 2024 has been defined by a rise in 'Botox in a bottle' formulas. And by this, I'd like to clarify that this does not mean formulas that necessarily claim explicitly to deliver Botox-like results—as we'll touch on later, brands aren't really allowed to do this. Instead, I'm talking about products that imply they, much like Botox, can freeze muscle contractions.

I first started noticing the trend when New Zealand-founded Emma Lewisham (a brand, by the way, I really rate) launched its 'Supernatural Vitale Elixir,' marketing itself as a 'revolutionary cosmeceutical-grade facial muscle relaxant', among other things. (Other benefits are said to include that it 'relaxes wrinkles,' 'plumps and firms' and offers 'instant filling'.) And while the brand never claims to be a direct substitute for Botox itself (as mentioned, no brand worth their weight would or could say this), the 'muscle contraction relaxant' promises do sound pretty similar—as does the subtle language used around its marketing. 

The product page reads: "Pioneering independent 3D in-vitro (2024) testing performed by a specialist French laboratory using a Reconstructed Human Epidermis, found that the Supernatural Vitale Elixir relaxed the muscle contractions that cause wrinkles by up to 62% after 4 hours." Proof that not only it has been through rigorous, scientific testing, but also providing more clarity on what that 'muscle relaxant' claim really means.

After trying the product, I have to admit it's seriously good. My skin looks noticeably smoother, fresher and more 'snatched' in a way? But would I say it competes with the 'muscle relaxing' (read: paralysing) benefits of Botox, as someone who's had the treatment a handful of times? The jury's still out. 

Next up came several other emails in my inbox, promoting those coveted muscle relaxant-like results. The likes of Skin Design's Face Tight Serum (which is branded as 'The "Botox" Filler' on its website) and Argentum's Le Serum Infini (for 'firm, smooth skin the non-injectable way', according to the brand) caught my attention. 

The newest on the block? Skinceuticals P-Tiox: a formula I've been hearing about for some time from aesthetic doctor friends of mine. Again, while there is no mention from the brand of P-Tiox as a stand-in for Botox, it does seem to target the same 'concerns'.

Dr Wassim TakTouk (cosmetic doctor and Founder of TakTouk clinic), my own aesthetic doctor, explains how this new elixir works. "Muscle contraction (and subsequent wrinkles) are caused by nerves sending neurotransmitter (acetylcholine) to the muscle telling it to contract. Botox works by stopping this from happening," he begins. 

"Neuropeptides, when applied topically, inhibit the release of neurotransmitters. Essentially, they are intercepting the communication between nerves and muscles, effectively reducing muscle contractions. Peptides are amino acid sequences that are the building blocks for proteins. They are produced by cells, but our bodies make less as we age. Skinceuticals pTIOX contains 2% Hexapeptide + 2% Dipeptide. Argireline is a hexapeptide. It works by blocking the activity of the enzyme Acetylcholine/SNARE protein complex, responsible for involuntary facial muscle contractions."

So, clearly, there is a lot out there right now about 'Botox-esque' skincare that promises to prevent muscle contraction—but is all of this really legit, and what do regulatory laws say about this kind of marketing anyway? 

'Botox in a bottle' marketing: an expert's opinion

'Botox in a bottle' marketing is a somewhat contentious issue, and one that straddles a fine line. Kamal of The Cosmetic Regulator tells me: "Different brands take on different levels of risks. Claims comparing a cosmetic formulation to a medicinal procedure or treatment are not permitted for cosmetic products. Cosmetic products should only have claims to improve the appearance of the skin, beautify the skin, cleanse etc. They are not intended to give 'Botox-like' effects. 

"Cosmetic formulations are not intended to work so deeply into the skin that they work on a physiological level i.e. a level where medicines work at," she adds. "The UK & EU Cosmetics regulation is very clear on what a cosmetic product is: 'cosmetic product’ means any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odours' 

"Therefore, anything beyond this, or anything claiming anything beyond this, would be considered not a cosmetic. Aesthetic injectable treatments are medicinal procedures and work on a physiological level; cosmetics should not be compared to these treatments." 

As mentioned, it's a fine line. Many brands may avoid using the term 'Botox' or mentioning direct comparisons to avoid any misleading statements or promises for consumers, and not to cross any regulatory boundaries. 

So, can 'Botox in a bottle' products actually work?

This is a multi-layered question, as it depends on what level. Experts I spoke to generally agree that, aside from any ethical factors, 'Botox-like' formulations shouldn't be taken too literally by consumers. Managing expectations is key as no product (so far) can actually mimic the kind of results Botox injections give in the same way. After all, Botox is considered a prescription-only medicine.

"Serums just do not offer the same results. You do not get the same results out of a bottle as you do with injections. They do not inhibit muscle contraction, as a serum cannot penetrate into the muscle. The results are also not long-lasting like they are with Botox," says cosmetic doctor and dermatology expert, Dr Sonia Khorana. "There isn’t a topical product that can rival the results of Botox," she reiterates.

But, what Dr Khorana goes on to say really highlights a newly emerging grey area. "The closest thing you’ll find to ‘Botox in a bottle’ is Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, which some of you may have heard of by its trade name, Argireline. The 'Botox in a Bottle’ TikTok trend involves users mixing two skincare serums (The Ordinary Argireline Solution 10% and The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA) in hopes of mimicking the wrinkle-reducing effects of Botox."

As well as this combo by The Ordinary (which, as Dr Khorana mentions, has risen to fame on TikTok), some of the products previously mentioned, such as the ones by Emma Lewisham and Skinceuticals, also contain Argireline.

And while these products certainly are not substitutes for Botox, they aren't short in their lists of benefits that can still contribute to younger-looking, fresher skin. For example, they can work to hydrate skin for a plumper appearance and a more stabilised skin barrier, or contain ingredients that may help to regenerate collagen and elastin levels.

With this in mind, I'd say these products are still worth giving a go, providing you manage your expectations. If you desire more of a long-term and noticeable result, Skinceuticals actually highlight the benefits of using P-Tiox along with Botox injections on the product page: "When paired together, anti-wrinkle injectables and P-Tiox work synergistically to reduce wrinkles through multiple mechanisms, thereby reducing contraction lines on the face."

Topical products of course have their appeal in other ways, too. "The decision of whether you opt for Botox or 'Botox in a Bottle' will depend on your personal preferences, budget, and skincare goals," says Dr Khorana. "While Botox injections are a tried-and-true treatment that can provide dramatic results, they are expensive and they require regular maintenance. On the other hand, serums offer a more affordable and non-invasive option that can be effective in reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, but may not be as effective or long-lasting as Botox injections."

As well as potentially investing in one of these nouveau formulas, she recommends sticking to old, trusted ingredients for healthy, fresh-looking skin, such as retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, and of course, regular SPF usage.