This affordable skincare ingredient massively calms redness and inflammation—I’m mad I didn’t know about it sooner

One of my skincare resolutions for this year is to treat my skin more like I'd treat a baby's. As a beauty editor, I am essentially a human guinea pig—testing all kinds of actives and acids—basically, all of the harshest (but most rewarding) products I can put on my one precious face. But this year, I'm trying to pay more attention to my oft-forgotten skin barrier, and generally pivot more towards nourishing and soothing products.

One naturally derived ingredient that has caught my attention is bisabolol. While you may not have heard of it, or know how to pronounce it (bisa-bo-lol), this is an under-the-radar skincare hero, which may already be in some of your favourite skincare, make-up and hair-care products. Only this morning I was surprised to find that it's an ingredient in my all-time favourite lip salve, the Aquaphor Healing Ointment. And what's more, per Google, global searches for this ingredient have been up 100 per cent over the past year.

"The current trend in skincare is moving toward natural ingredients that promote wellness and are gentle on sensitive skin," board-certified dermatologist and MOHS surgeon, Dr Angela Brimhall tells Marie Claire UK. "We're noticing that bisabolol's reputation for being effective in calming irritation and redness has really been resonating with consumers right now."

What is bisabolol?

"Bisabolol is a natural compound primarily derived from the essential oil of the chamomile plant," says Dr Brimhall. "It is known for its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties and promotes healing and balance within the skin."

At first glance, you may think bisabolol sounds similar to other hot-button ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, but there are differences. "Niacinamide is celebrated for its ability to regulate oil production and improve skin texture while reducing redness, and hyaluronic acid excels in hydration. But bisabolol stands out for its ability to do both," explains the dermatologist.

"It's also generally non-abrasive. This means it complements your niacinamide and hyaluronic acid products without causing irritation. So, whether you're using it in the form of a serum, a cream or an oil, it is an excellent addition to a holistic skincare routine. Bisabolol is also generally safe for daily use, morning and evening, depending on your skin’s needs."

Is bisobolol anti-inflammatory?

It is indeed. Bisabolol works as a dual-action ingredient, being both a natural anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent. This means that it is particularly effective when it comes to reducing redness, calming irritation and accelerating skin repair. Because it supports skin regeneration, it's also useful when it comes to minor wounds and post-procedure care, and likewise, for those who have chronic skin conditions like eczema and rosacea.

"It can also assist in reducing the severity of acne and other skin infections, and on the other end of the spectrum, it enhances skin hydration by improving the skin barrier function," adds Dr Brimhall. "There is also evidence of photo-protective effects, so it may help protect against UV-induced skin damage."

Now, this is a little science-y, but it's worth understanding that bisabolol has a unique molecular structure, which allows it to penetrate deep into the skin. This means that it can deliver its benefits directly to the target areas in the dermis.

Who is bisabolol for?

Generally, Dr Brimhall explains that bisabolol is an incredibly versatile ingredient, which makes it an excellent choice for a variety of skin types and concerns—the primary being sensitive, acne-prone, dry, inflamed or irritated skin.

But, if you have oily skin or live in a humid climate, you may find bisabolol to be too heavy and claggy on the skin. And of course, if you have specific allergies or sensitivities to chamomile or related plants, steer clear.

Can you use bisobolol with vitamin C and retinol?

While it's sometimes difficult to know what ingredients to pair with each other, using bisabolol is pretty straightforward. It works well with both vitamin C and retinol, and what's more, "it can help minimize the irritation that these anti-ageing ingredients may cause, making them more tolerable."

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