Old Hollywood style is all over fashion's mood board this season—and I can't get enough

Many may argue that the Met Gala is undoubtedly fashion’s biggest night out. But over the past four years, the Academy Museum Gala has proven a strong competitor—many dubbing it ‘the West Coast’s Met Gala’. Like its older sister, the event is highly restricted and features a grand red carpet followed by awards, presenters, and a surprise musical guest, which is, strictly not televised.

As someone obsessed with red-carpet fashion, events like these genuinely stimulate my fashion girlie brain, partly because of the nostalgic feelings associated. As a child, I spent many Sundays glued to the TV engrossed in E!’s latest coverage of every red carpet as a child—it's where fashion moments were born.

And, of course, this weekend’s fourth annual Academy Museum Gala was no different. The event that gave us that iconic Hailey Bieber and Selena Gomez selfie two years ago broke the internet again. But not for the reason one might assume; this time the fashion did the talking, rather than the pop culture moments.

Everyone understood the assignment. The timeless allure of Old Hollywood glamour is going nowhere. Oozing every bit of glamour, this fashion era is notorious for its famous faces like Audrey Hepburn, Eartha Kitt, Marilyn Monroe, Josephine Baker, and many more.

From vintage pulls to off-the-runway debuts, some of the night’s most spectacular looks included Da’Vine Joy Randolph in Louis Vuitton, Rooney Mara in vintage Givenchy fall/winter 1996 couture, Zoe Saldana in Harris Reed, Nicole Kidman in Balenciaga Haute Couture, and lest we forget Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner in vintage Thierry Mugler joined by Kendall Jenner in Schiaparelli spring/summer 2024 couture.

One of the night’s stand-out looks drew identical comparisons between Kaia Gerber and Audrey Hepburn. Gerber pulled a vintage classic piece inspired by Hepburn’s white chiffon crystal dress in the 1964 film, My Fair Lady. The almost identical 1997 Givenchy by Alexander McQueen dress seamlessly blended that classic Old Hollywood flair with McQueen’s ubiquitous gothic symbolism.

Other red carpet connoisseurs may note that this is not Hollywood’s new generation's first time referencing this and other classic gowns. Just three years ago, Kendall Jenner wore a custom ‘naked dress’ by Givenchy inspired by the original My Fair Lady gown at the 2021 Met Gala, and Anok Yai directly referenced Josephine Baker in an Oscar De La Renta Gown. Whilst Kim Kardashian controversially wore Marilyn Monroe’s infamous ‘Happy Birthday’ dress to the 2022 Met Gala a year later.

Earlier this year, award season seemed to be the season that fully cemented the return of Old Hollywood with stars like Elle Fanning wearing a vintage pearlescent Pierre Balmain gown, Anya Taylor-Joy wearing a Miss Sohee look donning a crystal encrusted cap reminiscent of Jane Russel’s pearl-studded skull cap, and of course Ryan Gosling’s homage performance to Marilyn Monroe’s Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.

Over on the catwalk, the Old Hollywood references have been one of autumn/winter 2024’s biggest trends. The era known for its cinched waists, ballgown skirts, and intricate beading interlaced with chiffon and silks has once more fascinated the experts and led them to create their iterations. Over at London Fashion Week, Erdem took firm inspiration from famed opera singer Maria Callas. Who will be portrayed by Angelina Jolie in the 2025 biopic and served as the primary source of inspiration for the collection’s full-skirted dresses, satin pyjamas, glamorous feathered coats, and romantic prints.

In Milan, Miuccia Prada noted a collection shaped by history referencing fashion history peaks (and the infamous women who helped shape them) whilst Dolce and Gabbana showcased several polka dot billowing pieces that alluded to Old Hollywood. Much like Ariana Grande and Jaden Smith did this weekend at the Academy Gala, by nodding to black and white films and dazzling stars like Eartha Kitt, and Lucille Ball.

All whilst keeping a clear view of the complex psychologies of these extraordinary women and the reasons why they helped shape Old Hollywood's aesthetic. From their attention to detail, trailblazing ways and a strong eye for fashion, it is no wonder why this is one of fashion’s most referenced eras. If 2024 has taught us anything so far, it’s that old will forever be gold.