H&M just dropped a holiday-themed collection with The White Lotus costume designer Alex Bovaird

If, like me, you’ve been obsessed with The White Lotus since it first came onto our screens in 2021, you’ll know that the sublime costumes are practically characters in their own right. The woman behind Haley Lu Richardson’s algorithm informed wardrobe, Theo James’ loud Casablanca shirts and Jennifer Coolidge’s infamous “Peppa Pig” moment is Alex Bovaird, who has worked with the show’s creator Mike White on all three seasons of the black comedy.

Only the first episode from the new season has aired, but as expected, fan theories are already running on overdrive. Set in Thailand and starring the likes of Aimee Lou Wood, Parker Posey and Jason Isaacs, it’s safe to say the expectations for season three are high — for the plot as well as the outfits.

I spoke to Alex from New Orleans, where she's currently working on a new A24 film, to get the low down on everything viewers can expect, her partnership with H&M which goes on sale today, and what she can reveal about the recently confirmed fourth season.

What outfits or items stand-out to you from the very first episode of season three?

I am a huge fan of Chloe's (Charlotte Le Bon’s) look at the end of the episode. It is a custom look we made for the character with Jacquemus — a polka dot body suit with a sequinned black and white striped skirt. Chelsea (Aimee Lou Wood) says to her "I love your outfit".

What was it like shooting on location in Thailand, and how does the setting of The White Lotus inform the costumes on the show?

It was so incredibly hot the entire time that we were shooting, so we had to keep that in mind when considering styles and fabrics. We always try to incorporate the colours and the vibe of the location. We do a lot of shopping locally and mix it into what we brought with us from the USA.

I really love the hotel staff’s shirts with the palm tree and monkey embroidery. Did you and your team create these?

Our friends at [New York brand] Tombolo customised them for us. They have amazing Cabana sets and I was inspired by a hotel gift shop collection they have done for a hotel in Portofino, Italy.

I also spotted plenty of JW Anderson and Loewe bags. Do you have go-to designers for the show?

Yes I love JW Anderson and Loewe bags so much! Other favourites are Valentino, Gucci and Jacquemus. We also fell in love with [Belgian accessories brand] Delvaux bags this season, they’re so classic and unique. Laurie (Carrie Coon) also carries a Hermès beach bag — they have spectacular resort wear pieces.

We have been growing season to season. In season one I pleaded for my sister-in-law's Louis Vuitton totes, by season three I was borrowing from the house themselves. We also have items I got at markets in England, charity shops and Bangkok bazaars, so it's not all designer.

This is the first season of the show without Tanya (Jennifer Coolidge). How did it feel without her, and who filled the void?

I missed our dressing room chats and the fun we had on set. But there are so many new guests and characters to put together, I had my hands completely full!

What can you tell us about the upcoming episodes — are there any major fashion moments viewers should be looking out for?

A spectacular entrance from Jacqueline (Michelle Monaghan) in a leopard one piece swim suit and matching robe . A vintage Versace dress on Chloe (Charlotte Le Bon) at a party. And some custom made (US artist) Scooter LaForge full moon party T-shirts that were inspired by my own raving days in Thailand in the 90s.

Which was your favourite character’s wardrobe to build this season and why?

I like Aimee Lou Wood's character Chelsea — I felt we had outfits for days and it was hard to pick. She has an eclectic traveller vibe, and Aimee is a dream to work with. I'm also partial to Piper (Sarah Catherine Hook) and Fabian (Christian Friedel)! He won't get a style write up, but his Indo-Western outfits are something special.

You have been the costume designer on the show since the very beginning. How has it been to progress from then until now?

It gets bigger and splashier every season. Mike White is great to work with and I enjoy the job so much, it's a dream come true.

You have collaborated with H&M on a 25-piece collection which is available to shop from today. How did this come about?

I was very lucky that H&M valued the contribution of the costume designer and wanted to collaborate on a capsule collection. We worked on it while I was in Thailand and it is based on the characters and setting of season three. The team was amazing and I can't wait to share it with The White Lotus fashion fans!

What were some of your references or inspirations, and how was the process different from putting together looks for the show?

For the collection, we used the same moodboards, inspirations and themes as the costumes on Season 3. They are sisters! We were also going for romance, daring and versatility. I found the process was a lot more straightforward, building the capsule to capture the essence of the clothes for the consumer.

What are some of your favourite items from the collection?

The oversized shirt and frill trousers, the frill dresses and all the accessories.

Do you believe that costume designers are starting to get more recognition for the very important role they play in TV and cinema?

Yes I think so, we are probably more incognito than a lot of fashion or celebrity stylists. The clothes our characters wear are essential and always on screen. It's a hard job that can go unnoticed, but I am lucky to have such an incredible platform to work on .The clothes only become iconic when the performances and the writing have a special alchemy as well.

Because the show has soared in popularity, do you ever feel external pressure or wonder what fans at home will be saying about your work?

I care just as much as any indie film I have worked on, which is fair to say, is an awful lot! We try to make it right for the character, keep the actors happy, make it colourful and keep the screen full of life..

Finally, can you tell us anything about season four (which has recently been confirmed) and where in the world it will be set?

Your guess is as good as mine…

Shop Alex's picks from The White Lotus x H&M collection