Maria Grazia Chiuri celebrates women with her PFW show

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  • The venue

    The show venue – set in the Jardin des Tuileries in the heart of Paris – was designed in collaboration with the Claire Fontaine collective to create a space dedicated to Italian women artists who commit to the feminist cause. Illuminated conic phrases hung from the ceiling, flashing at intervals.

    ‘Women raise the upraising’ symbolising the revolutionary act of motherhood, ‘patriarchy = repression’ illustrated the emotional consequences of make domination and ‘when women strike, the world stops’ highlighted the often unrecognised but essential role of women in society.

    The first model opened the show to the word ‘consent’ flashing above her, a – perhaps unintentional but impactful nonetheless – nod to this week’s Weinstein verdict.

    The clothes

    Maria Grazia Chiuri looked to her teenage diary for her autumn/winter 2020 collection, and more specifically the emotions linked to it. She revisited old photos including some of her mother and actresses who inspired clients of her mother’s couture atelier, and re-imagined them with her vision of today.

    The show opened with the Dior Bar jacket, which harks back to the New Look of 1947, launched during the house’s first ever Paris fashion show.

    There were 70s shearling jackets and boiler suits, and plenty of heritage checks inspired by Mr Christian Dior himself (‘I love checks. They can be fancy and simple; elegant and easy; young and always right,’ he said).

    A polka dot scarf found in the Dior archives served as the starting point for a series of dresses in various styles and lengths.

    Other key looks included grandad knits and prim pea coats paired with pleated skirts. Fringes featured heavily, adding movement to long skirts.

    The accessories

    There again, Maria Grazia looked to the past. Silk bandana scarves adorned models’ heads, showcasing hippie style wavy hair. Organza ties and cute backpacks reminded us of school uniforms of days gone by.

    The FROW

    Dior started off PFW with a bang thanks to a very stellar line-up. Maya Hawkes, Sigourney Weaver, Andie MacDowell, Rachel Brosnahan, Demi Moore, Cara Delevingne, and the list goes on.

    The standout piece

    A good suit is the ultimate timeless look worth investing in, and for this reason I have to say the black two-piece that opened the show. If the jacket still stands the test of time over 70 years on, then it’s a no brainer.

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