Alberta Ferretti AW24: Pragmatism and poetry
The Italian designer casts a little practical magic
Giving the current climate, it makes sense that designers are taking a pragmatic approach to dressing. But as Alberta Ferretti has long proved, it is possible for even the most ardent of realists to enjoy a little practical magic.
The house is known for its slip dresses, tailoring and draping, which were present here but reimagined in unexpected ways. Slips came rendered in the usual silk, but were also reworked in flannel and leather. There were suits and trousers with pinstripes illuminated by metal threads. Meanwhile, trompe-l'œil draping on liquid jersey dresses created a pleasing optical illusion.
You wanted to touch each and every piece, so tactile the collection is, from the oversized jacquard knits made of cordonetto and ribbon, to nubby tweeds. A luxuriously outsized, woodland-green coat – with a matching scarf – felt like a sartorial hug, enveloping the wearer. This sense of comfort feels especially right for now.
As a counterpoint to these opaque, daytime fabrics, Ferretti offered up a whole host of sheer evening options – a translucent maxi dress liberally traced with crystals and chiffon armoured with shimmering medallions. These are gowns I'm sure we'll see on the red carpet this awards season and next.
