Show report: Calvin Klein A/W 12

New York closes with a bravura display of minimalist by Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa

It was fitting that The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo star Rooney Mara was sitting front row to see Francisco Costa’s latest outing for Calvin Klein – her dark gothic beauty clearly inspired the casting at this stunning show – but the pared-down, gently feminine dresses and pristine coats also seemed in tune with Mara’s understated glamour.
Despite being a largely black collection Costa’s vision for next winter is an enticingly feminine one; dresses cinched with graphic metallic belts were gently flared creating an hourglass silhouette than ran through the whole collection.

These beautifully demure shapes and cleverly combined textures softened the edges of Costa’s finely honed minimalism. And it wasn’t an entirely dark affair – Costa interjected with shots of intense tangerine, salmon pink and ivory and revealed some flesh too by incorporating sheer sections into a series of panelled pieces.

The man himself emerged from the backstage darkness wearing – of course – all black.

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