‘Anti-attraction’ perfumes are mossy, smoky, and a tad dirty—here’s why I couldn’t be more obsessed

For those who can't stand gourmands...

Anti-gourmand perfumes
(Image credit: Alamy)

Mossy, earthy, smoky and even a little dirty: these are not words usually associated with perfumes that are used to "attract." But not to worry: a new era of scents envisioned to do the opposite are surprisingly on trend, right now.

Following years of chatter surrounding 'pheromone' perfumes, soft skin scents and decadent gourmand elixirs that smell good enough to eat (don't), perfume has long been used as a function to "attract". Yet in the current climate of trends, which celebrate man-repelling clothing and anti-dating narratives, one subsection of fragrance has celebrated this turn inwards, and towards dating ourselves. Just take a look at Fragrantica threads like this one that celebrate perfumes which tend to "repel men" but still "make you feel great".

Enter: anti-attraction spritzes that may not attract another, but that make us feel strong, powerful and independent. They might not be traditionally "sexy" or "pretty", but the cool girls love them. These are concoctions that are sophisticated, stylish, modern and even a little controversial at times: they can smell unlike anything you've smelled before, and celebrate notes that are metallic, earthy, potent or sour. You won't find salted caramel, sweet florals or powdery, conventional notes within the following eight olfactory experiences—and that's exactly the point.

1. Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea

Anti-gourmand perfumes - Escentric Molecules

(Image credit: Escentric Molecules)

Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Black Tea Eau de Toilette 

Specifications

Key notes : Black tea, iso e super

The first thing I thought when I smelled Escentric Molecules 'Molecule 01 + Black Tea' was that it was not a scent intended to be worn on dates. And I mean that in the best way: this is a spritz that feels sophisticated, wholesome and stylish, but is not designed to attract or to make you feel incredibly sexy. Along with Escentric Molecules' signature Iso E Super (that smells different on everyone and is often undetectable to the wearer), this spotlights black tea, which is earthy, grounding and green.

2. Lush The Smell Of Weather Turning

Anti-attraction perfumes

(Image credit: Lush)

Lush The Smell Of Weather Turning

Specifications

Key notes: Hay, oak, nettle

While researching for this, I came across a TikTok thread that discussed unique Lush perfumes, with one user writing: "The most intriguing, unique, weird perfume I've ever owned is Lush's The Smell of Weather Turning. I still can't decide how I really feel about it!" This reminded me of when I smelled this scent for the very first time. It absolutely fits into the 'anti-gourmand, anti-attraction' category with its unique combination of hay, oak, nettle, bay and peppermint—it's designed to be reminiscent of the air before a thunderstorm, and I can attest to that.

3. Aesop Karst

Anti-gourmand perfumes - Aesop

(Image credit: Aesop)

Aesop Karst

Specifications

Key notes: Rosemary, sage, cumin

I usually go through a very "love-hate" relationship with most Aesop fragrances. It goes a little something like this: I'll try a new one, think it smells like a patch of earth or rack of spices, dismiss it, then give it another go and decide it's the coolest, most innovative scent ever. To that end, Karst is my ultimate number one pick: it's very green and aromatic and smells irresistibly unique on the skin. It's also sexy as hell, but perhaps not traditionally so.

4. Vyrao Witchy Woo

Anti-gourmand perfumes - Vyrao

(Image credit: Vyrao)

Vyrao Witchy Woo

Specifications

Key notes: Orris, black pepper, incense

All of Vyrao's scents scream "girl power" to me, because I just feel as though they've never, ever been created to appease a man's judgement of what's "sexy," but instead, our version of what's modern and unapologetically cool. 'Witchy Woo' is my fave; it's spicy and earthy, with potent hits of incense, black pepper and orris. And just look at that bottle...

5. D.S. & Durga Steamed Rainbow

Anti-gourmand perfumes - DS & Durga

(Image credit: DS & Durga)

D.S. & Durga Steamed Rainbow

Specifications

Key notes: Elemi, grass, cedar

Designed to smell like a real rainbow, this is the epitome of scents that remind us of the earth and all parts of the natural world. For this reason, it's certainly not gourmand or sweet in any way, instead, it celebrates notes like elemi, grass and cedar in all their green, woodsy delight.

6. Byredo Black Saffron

Anti-gourmand perfumes - Byredo

(Image credit: Byredo)

Byredo Black Saffron

Specifications

Key notes: Leather, black violet, saffron

A rich, leathery delight, this intense spritz is not designed for anyone who usually sticks to sweet florals. It's spicy, warm and woody, with a slight hint of metallic, making it what I'd describe as a complex and "interesting" scent. It will certainly garner questions, and to me, it is incredibly moreish in all of its spiciness.

7. Diptyque L'Eau Papier

Anti-gourmand perfumes - Diptyque

(Image credit: Diptyque)

Diptyque L'Eau Papier

Specifications

Key notes: Musk, sesame, mimosa

Reading about Diptyque's L'Eau Papier (ironically, on paper) just doesn't do it justice. With notes of musk, white musk and mimosa, it sounds powdery, musky and comforting, and it is, but not in a "warm and fluffy" kind of way. Instead, it feels undeniably cool and stylish, totally anti-gourmand, and is definitely designed for the super seasoned fragrance enthusiast who wants to wear something completely novel.

Rebecca is a freelance beauty journalist and contributor to Marie Claire. She has written for titles including Refinery29, The Independent, Grazia, Coveteur, Dazed, Stylist, and Glamour. She is also a brand consultant and has worked with the likes of The Inkey List on campaign messaging and branded copy. She’s obsessed with skincare, nail art and fragrance, and outside of beauty, Rebecca likes to travel, watch true crime docs, pet sausage dogs and drink coffee. Rebecca is also passionate about American politics and mental health awareness.