Acne Studios debuted their new collection strategy earlier today, showing their bi-annual women’s ready-to-wear collection for the first time. Creative Director Jonny Johansson explained post-show, that for him the decision to merge the women’s pre-collection with main collections resulting in two women’s ready-to-wear released annually, was a ‘conscious choice of trying to get more space and time to create.’ The resulting first show for fall/winter 2018 coincided with couture fashion week. With the Acne Studios team already in Paris for their men’s collections which were shown last week, they decided timing wise showing womenswear during couture would work. Although, as Johansson explained backstage, he did have to keep reiterating this collection had nothing to do with couture.
Instead, Johansson showed an extremely wearable collection focusing on layering and texture. Having had more time, he said he and his team could explore techniques more deeply. A silk dress was first pleated, then every pleat was cut individually and left raw edged so that they delicately fanned out and fluttered softly with movement. Moleskin leather was treated in two ways, bleached and then embellished to offer a lived in feeling. And these were clothes that you really could live in. Thin roll-necks were layered under unshapen knitwear, pretty embroidered flowers adorned dressed while trainers were paired with woolen socks. Coats were a dominant factor, ranging from quilted leather to oversized trenches and waxed cottons. A raspberry pink version in jumbo cord with giant faux fur pockets screamed Instabait, whilst hats created by Stephen Jones upped the nonchalant attitude.
Playing with the idea of time, Johansson says he was inspired by his friends who have moved out from the city. ‘They’re mainly musicians and they come back with something different about them. It’s usually shown in their clothing. Instead of that anxious city scene, they look more natural.’ Practical yet pretty, romantic yet real, who wouldn’t want to be an Acne Studios girl for next season?