Let the looks we shot on model and philanthropist Pritika Swarup in New York get you in the mood…
If you’re looking for escapism, start with some souped-up make-up classics. Here, make-up guru Caroline Barnes gives you a step-by-step on how to achieve a subtly sculpted face, a feline flick and a 3D pout (without even a whisper of lip gloss).
SOFTLY SCULPTED SKIN
‘This is an angled but soft-focussed look. It works by taking the pink out of the cheeks,’ says Barnes. But there’s a fine line between contouring with a natural shadow and painting on harsh stripes.
Barnes recommends you start by first identifying where the hollows of your cheekbones fall. Then mimic the position and natural colour of those shadows with make-up.
‘Shadows are always a bit grey-looking, but the darker the skin, the less cool-toned they appear.’ She suggests using a soft blending brush like the MAC Cosmetics 190 Synthetic Foundation Brush, £28, to soften lines.
1. Lift pigmentation, dark eyes, and t-zone. With a foundation one shade lighter than your skin tone (Pritika is wearing the Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation in 5.25, £43), dab with a sponge across the t-zone, under your eyes, around your nostrils, and underneath the bottom lip for dimension.
2. Sweep with a natural shade of foundation to even out complexion. If the colours jar too much, blend with a soft brush instead of a sponge. Then swipe the brush over your lips to take out the pink, and go over your ears and down the neck so your skin tone is even.
3. Use a darker liquid foundation or a contouring cream to carve out features. Pritika used Tom Ford’s Shade and Illuminate, £64. Create a Nike tick in the hollows of your cheeks and buff up to your ears, then underneath your jaw and into your hairline and temples to connect the shadows. If there are any hard lines, go in with a cotton pad and softly blend. Or press the warmth of your palms over your face to combine the shades together.
4. Groom brows with a gel to create an upward, feathered effect. Pritika used Milk Makeup KUSH Fiber Brow Gel in Deep Brown, £21, and filled in any gaps with Diorshow Brow Styler in 001 Universal Brown, £22.
5. Create soft definition over your eyelids. Go for a natural shade just two shades darker than your skin tone from the lash lines to your sockets. Follow the shape of your eyes and sweep underneath using a soft eyeshadow brush to intensify and elongate their shape. The Nars Hot Nights Face Palette, £56 is Pritika’s shadow of choice.
6. Apply a silky balm to the lips. Pritika used Eucerin’s Dry Skin Intensive Lip Balm, £6, followed by a dab of foundation to keep the look more boyish.
7. Gloss up lashes. Finish by rubbing a little balm on your fingertips. Pull it through your lashes so they look healthy and fanned out.
Strategically layering foundation, powder and two different lipsticks is what gives this lip look dimension. ‘Instead of using gloss, it is the play on colour that gives volume to the lips,’ says Barnes.
1. Balance your face by framing with strong brows. Strong lips can dominate the face so it’s important to structure brows by brushing up and filling in (but don’t go too dark with your brow pencil). Pritika used Diorshow Brow Styler in 001 Universal Brown, £22.
2. Give lips a neutral base. After you’ve perfected your foundation, swipe the same brush over your lips. Dust a translucent powder like Laura Mercier Secret Brightening Powder, £22.50, over the top to prep them and to ensure the colour stays put.
3. Start with the darkest hue. The darker the shade the better so you see and notice the faded effect. We went for a burgundy red that suits all skin tones. Apply your lipstick from the bullet for an impactful pop of colour. Pritika loves Armani Beauty Rouge D’Armani Matte Lipstick in 400, £32. Pritika then used the Chanel Dual-Ended Lip Brush N°300, £31, to define the lip line, blotted the colour with a tissue and dusted over the top with translucent powder to create a velvety finish.
4. Amplify lips with a tangerine shade. Take a second, lighter, orange red shade. Dab onto your ring finger and press into the centre of your lips. Think of this as a highlighter for lips as it brings out their fullness. The ombre effect will naturally happen when dabbed softly. Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Lip Balm in Medium, £31, is the perfect texture and tone.
GRAPHIC CAT EYE
Cat-eye fans rejoice: your signature make-up move is still on the runways. But this season, the take on winged liner is angled and graphic. Pritika’s sharp black wings are made more precise-looking thanks to her perfectly even complexion, bare lids and soft pink lipstick. Try saying no to eyeshadow, instead making it just about the lash and the liner. To successfully execute razor-sharp, winged eyeliner follow Barnes’s tips:
1. Polish up the skin for a clean base to start. Dab concealer in the inner corners of the eyes to brighten and to create a lovely clean edge to the liner. Pritika used Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer in Honey, £24. Next, brush a translucent powder onto the lids to absorb any oil on the lids and create a base for the liner to stick to.
2. Use a steady hand to apply the liquid liner. Turn your head to create a small angled flick that extend the shape of your eyes. Lancome Hypnose Artliner in 01 Black Satin, £24, works well. Rest your elbow on a table to steady your hand. Start drawing your line at the inner corners and along the centre. As your get to the outer corner of the eye widen your line so the shape is short and thick, a style that works well with chiselled cheekbones.
3. Open up your eyes with mascara. Apply mascara to the top and bottom lashes to open up your eyes. Use two or three coats of volumising mascara to build up extra thickness on the top lashes as a counterpoint to the liner. Pritika used the NARS Climax Extreme Mascara, £22.
4. Keep it simple with brows. Go for natural brows, otherwise the look becomes too busy. A brow gel like Milk Makeup KUSH Fiber Brow Gel in Deep Brown, £21, is ideal.
5. Plump up lips for a polished look. Apply lipstick from the bullet. Then use your ring finger to push the colour into your lips to make them look plumper. We love YSL Rouge Pur Couture Lipstick in 99 Fuchsia Allusion, £30.
Model Pritika Swarup at IMG Models
Concept, Director Benjamin Kaufmann
Beauty and Style Director Lisa Oxenham
Video Capture and Edit by Nick Tree
Make-up Artist Caroline Barnes at Frank Agency
Hairstylist Damian Monzillo using Hairpins by Damian Monzillo
at Rona Represents
Live Stream Expert Grzegorz Bieniek
Location Photographer Carl Chisolm
Video Editor Atanas Astardzhiev
Retoucher Ivan Mihailov
Production Assistant Sarah Barnes
Stylist Kristina Askerova
Look 1: Dress by Kalmanovich
Look 2: Full look by Iro Paris
Look 3: Dress by Kalmanovich