Gay Paree… home of the tree-lined boulevard, the pain au chocolat – and some of the fiercest brands in fashion. Here's what we learnt from a week tottering through the Tuileries...
1. The French Know How To Put On A Show
We know nowadays it’s all about skyscraper venues, jaw-dropping sets and ‘concept’ presentations. But vraiment, the Parisiens have left everyone else behind. See Nicolas Ghesquiere’s show at the spectacular new Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton. A twisty structure of giant overlapping glass sails soaring above the Bois de Bologne – the fash-pack were speechless. Even Anna Wintour probably sneaked a selfie in front of the water terrace.
2. …Especially Chanel
Giant spinning globes, supermarkets…this season King Karl turned his attention to feminism and street protests, sending the glammest pack of rioters down a giant reconstruction of a Paris street, ‘Boulevard Chanel’. There was Cara shouting into a loud-speaker, there was Gisele marching in a sexy cardi, there was every supermodel in the world holding placards saying ‘Tweed is better than tweet’ and ‘be your own stylist’. Probably not exactly what Emmeline Pankhurst had in mind. But we quibble.
3. SS15 Is Going Very Almost Famous
There’s no escape from the Seventies vibe seeping off practically every catwalk for SS15. But alongside the maxidresses, there’s a harder rock and roll fan-girl waiting to break out. Ref Saint Laurent: platforms, sheer tights, tiny flippy minidresses and black leather. Bad, bad girl.
4. Everyone’s Playing Musical (Fashion) Chairs
You put one designer in, you pull one designer out, in, out, in, out, and shake it all about…Yes, it’s all change – Peter Copping is apparently leaving Nina Ricci (to apparently go to Oscar de la Renta), which means that Guillaume Henri is leaving Carven to take his place at Ricci – apparently. Yes, you guessed it, no one is confirming or denying. But that was the FROW chat. Stay tuned.
5. Riccardo Tisci Is A God
His Givenchy collection was a bit Game of Thrones, a bit gladiator, a bit swashbuckling pirate and a LOT we-want-it-now. Almost couture in its craftsmanship (strips of leather spliced with lace panels – now that’s a feat), this was the fierce counterpoint to all the Seventies swirling about the place. There are rumours that Tisci may be off to pastures new (see above) but we’re choosing to ignore them.
6. You’re Never Too Young For The FROW
Yes, most of Paris may have been fighting for the right to stand at the back at Balenciaga (aka the coolest show in town) but if your name’s North West, relax, there’s a FROW seat just for you. She’ll probably be guest-editing Italian Vogue by next season…