Not All PDRN Skincare Is Created Equal—This Is What a Derm Wants You to Know Before You Buy

You've been living under a (beauty) rock if you haven’t heard of PDRN. Many know it as the injectable, polynucleotide treatment, colloquially known as the “salmon sperm facial”, but a slew of topical products featuring the ingredient is the latest export from South Korea. They promise similar results, minus the needles.

So, what is it? PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) is a regenerative DNA fragment, most commonly derived from salmon or trout sperm. While it may sound new, it’s been used since the 1990’s as a pharmaceutical treatment for tissue repair, including treating burns and repairing tendons. This is because PDRN is highly biocompatible with human DNA, meaning it can stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation and speed up wound healing. In recent years, it’s become a runaway success in South Korean aesthetic clinics for its skin-boosting properties and ability to deliver the sought-after “glass skin” effect.

Of course, if you’re looking for the maximum effects of the ingredient, dermatologists recommend going the injectable route. The next best option are PDRN serums and creams—however, as Consultant Dermatologist Dr Zainab Laftah explains, not all are created equal.

How can PDRN skincare products benefit skin?

PDRN stands out from many recent hero ingredients as it’s positioned as a regenerative active ingredient. “Research suggests that it may support tissue repair through several pathways, including activating repair signals in the skin, supporting the cells that produce collagen and maintain the skin barrier, encouraging the formation of new blood vessels and helping to regulate inflammation,” the dermatologist tells me. All this may offer potential benefits for rejuvenation and wound healing, including acne scarring.

Regarding results, dermatology studies suggest that improvements in hydration and barrier recovery can appear in just two weeks, while changes in elasticity may take a month or longer. “With continued use, the skin may look plumper, calmer and smoother, with modest improvements in firmness and fine lines,” Dr Laftah continues, adding that: “Topical evidence remains limited, so these timelines cannot be applied to every PDRN product, and results should not be expected to match those achieved with injectable treatments.”

Who is topical PDRN good for?

If you have dry, dehydrated, sensitive or compromised skin, PDRN is a great option. It’s excellent for barrier recovery, reducing irritation, and treating early signs of ageing, including fine lines and reduced elasticity. Plus, its regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for those who are recovering after more invasive aesthetic procedures, including microneedling, laser treatments, and chemical peels.

In fact, Dr Laftah adds that using these products after such traumatic treatments may even enhance delivery because the skin’s barrier has been temporarily disrupted. Although it should only be introduced in line with the treating clinician’s aftercare advice.

What’s the difference between PDRN injections and topical products?

As Dr Laftah stresses, the most robust data on PDRN supporting skin repair and reducing inflammation comes from injections rather than products applied to the face. “This is because PDRN consists of relatively large DNA fragments, so the skin’s outermost layer may substantially limit penetration.”

And as she warns, there’s a lot of clever marketing around the ingredient—but molecular size, concentration, stability and the delivery system matter; they greatly influence how much PDRN actually reaches the target skin cells and how effectively they work. “Products need to provide a stable delivery system that is designed to address its large size, limited skin permeability and susceptibility to degradation.”

Is there an optimal dose of PDRN?

In dermatology circles, a topical dose has not yet been established, although brands like Dr Reju-All have been conducting their own research.

The brand claims that their clinical studies have determined that 1,200ppm of 99%-pure PDRN yields the most complete regenerative benefits, without exceeding the skin’s absorption threshold. This tracks; as Dr Laftah tells Marie Claire UK, early studies of low-molecular-weight PDRN are promising. Higher concentrations may sound exciting, but they don’t penetrate deeper or work faster. Instead, they can increase the chance of adverse reactions.

What to look for in a PDRN product

If you’re in the market for a PDRN cream or serum, the derm recommends looking for the following: “A clearly disclosed PDRN source, concentration, and molecular profile.” If the concentration isn’t listed, it’s likely too low to show any viable results, and a lower molecular profile is generally favoured for increased absorption.”

Dr Laftah also recommends products that demonstrate human clinical studies of the finished product, and a complete ingredient list. “Good tolerability is much more important than marketing claims,” she concludes.

Derm-approved PDRN products