Runway editor Charlotte Moore tells us why Milan Fashion Week SS14 was as fabulous ever.
1. Hello sunshine
After windy, rainy, freezing London, summer was back – and we loved it. Milan looked more beautiful than ever before. The gardens of the glamourous hidden houses where the likes of Sergio Rossi showed held their presentations were like pretty bits of paradise. But best of all our favourite SS13 buys could have that one last outing.
2. The Fendi wigs
Last season it was Guido at Louis Vuitton this season it super-stylist Sam McKnight who got the wigs out. Cara Delevingne’s brows, Georgia May’s pout – both were quite literally overshadowed by this cool, choppy mop top. Add in Delfina Delettrez Fendi’s devine dangling earrings, and this fabulously futuristic collection, and Fendi is most definitely having a moment.
3. The Prada show
A 4am wake up call, a sleepless weekend and not a whiff of a panini – none of that matters if you’ve got a Prada ticket in your hand. The lights fell, the music ramped and then pow! The models marched across the stark wooden stage-cum-catwalk. Sporty, tribal, super-modern and emblazoned with giant sequins, jewels and muralist art – this is a brand new take on womanly dressing. And these were clothes that said power to all women.
4. Partying with Moschino
A show that morphs into a party could mean just about anything. But the invites – slogganed t-shirts shouting ‘FOR FASHION VICTIMS ONLY’ were a hint that the wit of the original designer Franco Moschino (who died in 1994) was there in spirit loud and proud. At 30 years old there still a lot of fun to be had at Moschino. Erin O’Connor and Jodie Kidd took to the runway hand-in-hand, then there was Alec Wek and Gloria Gaynor belting out ‘I Am What I Am’ as red velvet curtains opened out onto a stage full of jiving models. But it was Pat Cleveland cavorting down the catwalk that really made it feel like it was back to the 80s – when glossy production didn’t matter but fabulous fashion really did.
5. ADR everywhere
Where was she in London? We certainly didn’t see her. But in Milan Anna Della Russo was absolutely everywhere. With or without her dog, adding that extra shot of high octane fashion glamour. Who needs celebrities on the frow (Selina Gomez at Versace was the only one we spotted) when you’ve got Anna.
6. Music-free Marni
Only a show this magical could survive a technical hitch so horrendous. But, like lots of the fashion types we chatted to afterwards, the fact that there was no sound whatsoever was actually rather chic. Serene and beautiful, we heard every last clunk of those chunky Marni flipflops, and as the audience sat in awe – nothing distracted us from Consuela Castiglioni’s superbly sporty new direction.
7. The white shirt brigade
By Friday afternoon, and with nearly a dozen shows done, we couldn’t help but notice that almost everyone from front to fifth row – was wearing a white shirt. From stylists to writers – the fashion press had shunned black, and fasharazzi show-stoppers, for the trusty white. Course we’re not biased but Marie Claire’s Jayne Pickering’s boy/girl Stella version was our favourite.
8. Tod’s hit the runway
The vibe was a chic 70s apartment for Tod’s first ever catwalk show. And with the uber elegant Alessandra Facchinetti now heading up Tod’s, the look was exquisite and luxe, and just that little bit more feminine than Tod’s previous incarnations. This was a casual take on luxury that’s almost impossible not to fall in love with.
9. Leave your hairbrush at home
Beauty trends aren’t usually something you’d ever really try at home, but the fact that bouncy blow-drys seem to have had their day is surely a pretty big bonus. Even king of Glamazonia Roberto Cavalli sent his models with mussed long hair and flyaways galore. Next time you’re feeling messy and a little bit unkempt, remember you’re actually the height of fashion.
10. The Excelsior
No matter how penniless you are you can’t get through the shows without craving something an incy-wincy bit of new fashion for your wardrobe. Milan’s shopping answer is Collette. It’s must-go when you’re in Milano and the fastest fix we’ve ever had. From the biggies like Givenchy and Chloe to the kooky boutique lifestyle bits and bobs – everything is ‘curated’ with amazing taste. The fact that you’ll overspend is a given, but for inspiring shopping – there’s nowhere else like it. Address: Galleria del Corso 4 Milano.