We’re starting to get twitchy about the boys stealing all our fashion week thunder. The latest installment of the London Collections: Men was on another level. Here are the key things we've noted for the Menswear SS15 season:
The wunderkind. The boss. The man of the moment. Expect to hear a lot more about this one. Only a few years out of his St Martins MA, and Green has created a new aesthetic which very much veers away from the proliferation of hyper-fashion sports wear and jaunty coloured tailoring which we see from a lot of the other menswear folks. His collection showed influences from Japan; robes trailing with undone laces were reminiscent of Judo-wear which contrasted against the cut-out detailed tops which sculpted the torso. His tight colour palette of crisp white, textured black and a refreshingly bright blue gave the show a Zen-like calm, while the crowd’s reaction reached almost a religious fervour as they bowed down to the new master.
Shannon is fresh from snapping up the inaugural BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund – which garnered him a rather nice slush fund of 150K (although do note that the womenswear fund is 200K – perhaps the only example of women outdoing men in the pay stakes – but also reflective of the size of the markets). So what to do when one wins a lovely prize? Show off a stellar collection would seem apt. Shannon has a brilliant wit to his work – this collection took its cue from the imagined bedroom of an emo teen which translated into cut out and paste slogans and insignia, and knitted striped matching long sleeve polo sweaters and shorts all paired with the hefty and rather magnificent boots from his Caterpillar collaboration. There were also a lot of above-the-knee shorts. Men be getting leggy next summer.
We’re all for Mahzar’s signature ghetto-bling-boxing-ring take on sportwear. The rude boy just got high fashioned. His work has that elusive trait that often evades: coolness. He’s also got something else going on in his casting: lovely toned torsos. All hail the return of the beefcake.
Jeremy Scott continued his assault on the world of high fashion junk food with his first menswear offering (sliced in with some Resort womenswear looks). His knowing play on the commercialisation of fashion hit the right humour mark – and took the label brilliantly back to its tongue-in-cheek roots. His inversion of coca cola branding was one thing, but the smiley acid house faces interlocked to create an homage to Chanel’s famous logo and tracksuits emblazoned with ‘Fauxschino’ were pretty damn genius. Want.
The father-son duo have got modern slick tailoring down to a fine art – mashing up traditional tailoring tropes with the style and swagger of 80s skinheads (think pinstripe jackets worn with buttoned up shirts and cropped trousers in a contrasting white hue). They created one of the most covetable collections of the week. It also raised the point of mix and match suiting – why must the top always match the bottom, boys? There was an easy confidence to the interlocking monochrome styles.
See all the photos from London Collections: Men