Every legacy fashion house has its trademark—the calling card that transcends seasons, trends and even decades—but few are as universally recognised, or instantly legible, as Louis Vuitton’s Monogram. First introduced in 1896 by Georges Vuitton as a tribute to his father Louis, the LV motif is one of the most famous luxury signals across the globe. And now, 130 years on, the house is marking the milestone in suitably celebratory fashion, unveiling a collector-pleasing capsule that revisits some of its most iconic Monogram silhouettes.

Think of it as a greatest-hits edit, reimagined in a brand-new Monogram canvas, re-created using the pochoir technique—and it launches today. The Speedy—arguably the most famous Monogram bag of them all—was inspired by the speed and efficiency of modern travel and has been reworked in rose pivoine and vert jade hues. Designed by Gaston-Louis Vuitton, it remains one of the most sought-after handbags, celebrated for its effortless elegance, easy arm carry, and ability to fold flat with ease.

Each piece is stamped with a unique commemorative label, created especially for the anniversary, marking this edition—and the collection—as a true moment in Louis Vuitton history.

Part of what makes the LV Monogram so enduring is its uncanny ability to double as a cultural timestamp. Ask someone which celebrity first comes to mind when they think of a Monogram bag and you can probably guess their age, or at least their interest in fashion history.

Audrey Hepburn and Jackie Kennedy? You’re firmly in 1960s territory. Mariah Carey, Kate Moss and Madonna point to peak 90s glamour. And then there’s the unabashed logomania of the 00s, worn proudly by Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie—especially during the Takashi Murakami era, when the Monogram was injected with colour that saw a revival only last year.

Yet, despite its deep roots in heritage, the print has never felt stuck in the past. Today, it’s Rihanna, Kendall Jenner, Elle Fanning and Mary-Kate Olsen flying the Monogram flag, alongside Men's Creative Director Pharrell Williams himself.

Between them, they own the full roster of house icons: the Keepall, also launched in 1930, designed with travel in mind; the Alma, inspired by Parisian architecture and introduced in 1992; the modern-day Neverfull, a contemporary classic in its own right and the Speedy, created in 1930 and now a certified Y2K staple. All of which feature in the new capsule collection.

What unites every LV monogram style is their instant recognisability. And with nostalgia, craftsmanship and collectability all converging in this anniversary capsule, it’s hard to imagine it not resonating with luxury fashion fans old and new. Here’s to the next 130 years.

The Monogram Anniversary Speedy is available to buy online at Louisvuitton.com

Words by Lauren Cunningham

Hot new designer handbag releases are a dime a dozen nowadays, but only a small minority boast serious sartorial staying power—and of these, even fewer will ever reach true cult status.

The Chanel 25 handbag, however, has been destined for greatness since its very first outing. Debuted during the maison's Spring/Summer 2025 show in Paris, it had the star-studded front row and industry insiders in an unprecedented state of excitement the moment it hit the runway—and immediately flew straight to the top of luxury lovers' wish-lists the world over.

It's not hard to understand why. Featuring Chanel's signature quilting, braided chain, and legendary logo hardware, it's an instantly recognisable ode to the fashion house's design codes, but reimagined in a fresh formulation with novel appeal.

Its slouchy shape, hobo design, bucket-style close and multiple pockets ensure the Chanel 25 is as functional as it fashion-forward. Offered in three sizes, it's designed to be a stylish companion in all aspects of daily life—and genuinely capacious enough to fulfil its promise.

Little wonder that the eternally globe-trotting superstars Dua Lipa and Jennie from Blackpink were chosen as faces of the Chanel 25. As the former so aptly puts it: "I'm obsessed with this bag. It's the perfect kind of bag for me as someone who's always on the move and likes to carry around everything, especially because it's got these great pockets for all my favourite things. There's a place for my books, a place for my sunglasses, maybe a notebook or two, and even a place for my crystals. It's just the perfect everyday bag!"

Others clearly agree, as the Chanel 25 handbag has been spotted gracing the arms of the stylish women everywhere since its official release in March 2025—be it to run everyday errands, head to a high-powered job, or even as the ultimate travel carry-on. Much like the modern woman herself, this is a bag that can truly do it all.

Fresh fabrications of this new handbag icon are set to be released every season—a fact that will no doubt serve only to intensify its appeal. But, for now, there's one style that has captured the zeitgeist above all: the Chanel 25 in washed blue denim.

The epitome of effortless elegance, it sees the once-humble fabric elevated to the highest levels of chic, and lends the handbag a certain unexpected edge. A masterclass in casual luxury if ever we've seen it—and one that's proving incredibly hard to resist.

Credit: Chanel 25 Small Handbag in washed denim & gold-tone metal, £4,560 at Chanel.com.

Despite the revival of the Balenciaga Le City bag last year, a new style from the Maison is claiming It-bag status. It’s the bag that Kim Kardashian stands with defiantly in her luxury walk-in wardrobe. And it’s the bag the superstar wears while sporting a Marilyn Monroe-esque look as part of last summer’s Balenciaga “The Characters” campaign, alongside Naomi Watts and Isabelle Huppert and photographed by Nadav Kander - the three characters all show off how to wear the bag in different ways.

It’s also the bag worn by Nicole Kidman and photographed by Mario Sorrenti for the brand in May 2024; and it’s a favourite of Hailey Bieber. No wonder. Practical, easy, cool and, most importantly, slouchy, it is the Rodeo bag.

Debuting back in February 2024, it was part of the brand’s summer offering, and is named after the shopping district in Beverly Hills, California, Rodeo Drive - famous for high fashion and luxury. Notably, it’s a favourite retail spot by Cher in Clueless, and the location of a memorable outing for Julia Roberts’ character in Pretty Woman (though, with its low-key, casual laissez-faire aesthetic, this bag is perhaps not in-keeping with either of their style).

Instead it leans into a vintage brief-case sort of look meets the bag that holds everything, suitably worn as though you’ve always had it (typically the holy grail in handbags), and is fun to rummage around in.

Its titled shape is designed for easy carrying; it has two roomy compartments including one at the front that has been left intentionally open (obviously, don’t put valuables in this part! Good for a book, small umbrella etc) for that sense of effortlessness that fashion loves so much (and why this bag, universally, has become an instant hit), while an inner pocket is zipped. There are also two flat pockets at the back. And reinforced side snaps enable its accordion folds to expand or not; plus there is a removable shoulder strap and four brass feet.

How to wear it? Well, there are options. Kardashian posed with hers in a bright red dress, imposing coat and a socks and stiletto combination. Watts opted for an oversized mac, and Huppert for a sparkly long-sleeved column gown - in this case, proving that despite appearances, the bag could work beyond practicality.

It is one of those bags that quite literally does all the heavy-lifting when it comes to whatever else you’re wearing ie. you don’t really need to think too much about it (jeans, white T-shirt and sneakers). And, that this one comes with charms (a nice noughties sort of touch), means any other adornment should really be kept to a minimum, else it will be overkill. However, take the charms off and you have a timeless and classic carryall.

Available in small, medium and large sizes, this one measures L13,8 x H9,2 x W4,3 inches and is grey vegetable tanned lambskin with aged-silver hardware. Other colours include black and white leather or gold metal hardware - collector versions come with an assortment of charms, such as a heart-shaped leather-framed mirror, a set of heart-shaped carabiners, a chain of lockets and keys, souvenir-style pendants, and a Balenciaga retail tag in leather.

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Nothing conjures the feeling of an idyllic holiday in Italy quite like a driving shoe, a quintessential design in the hands of Tod’s, which is known for its striking Gommino loafer.

Debuting at the end of the 1970s, the Italian fashion brand took inspiration for the Gommino from 1950s driving shoes. It is recognisable for its distinct sole covered in 133 rubber pebbles, as well as its attention to craftsmanship.

Take, for example, the fact that there are over 100 steps in the construction of the shoe, with 35 pieces of leather used in a single model - each of which needs to be treated and checked individually before being assembled, and all of which is done by hand.

Over the years, there have been updates: the City Gommino has a thicker sole; the Gommino Bubble is softer in shape and features oversized pebbles; and the My Gommino offering makes it possible for you, the wearer, to customise the design with different leather combinations and colours.

But one thing has remained the same: the shoe has become a badge of Tod’s classic design and, as the brand notes, “Artisanal Intelligence” (which seems more poignant in an increasingly AI world). And, for Tod’s, this year has been a big year for both.

The Gommino was celebrated in conjunction with Italian Hands, Artisanal Stories from Italy, a book that celebrates Made in Italy, sharing and documenting the stories of the artisans and important figures who keep such traditions alive. Intended as a bridge between generations, it is both a tribute to the past in the hope of leading the way for the future. It features makers beyond the world of the Gommino, and a limited edition version was introduced exclusively at the Tod’s boutique at Via Montenapoleone.

Also in-keeping with this idea of tradition-meets-modernity, Tod’s debuted its Italian Diaries campaign putting the Gommino in the spotlight through a contemporary lens. Oliver Hadlee Pearch photographed five new names with strong legacies: actress and singer Ella Bleu Travolta, musician Lennon Gallagher, writer and director Stella Banderas, model and artist Roberto Rossellini and singer and actor Leo Gassmann.

Photographed in Tuscany, the campaign once again pointed to the spirit of Italian lifestyle: relaxed and elegant - much like the design of the Gommino shoe itself.

“To me,” said Lennon Gallagher, “the Gommino is a perfect representation of Italian design, luxurious and functional.”

Consider them the alternative to your go-to ballet pumps, worn day to day with cropped trousers and shorts, given that they tick the box of being both smart and casual.

The Gommino shoe is available in suede or calf leather and available in the brand’s natural shades as well as those on the more vibrant side - yellow, light blue and orange.

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Despite its slick aesthetic, Chanel’s iconic ‘J12’ watch was originally born out of frustration. The fashion house’s long-time artistic director Jacques Hélleu, who joined Chanel in the 1950s and was responsible for many of its memorable ad campaigns and monochromatic brand identity, had been searching for a watch. He couldn’t find anything that he wanted to wear, so decided to dream up his perfect timepiece. Perhaps inevitably, this led to the creation of one of the most influential watches: the ‘J12’.

Hélleu wanted a watch that was sporty, but chic. When sketching out his idea for the ‘J12’, he took inspiration from racing yachts – a personal passion of his. In fact, the name of the watch refers to the 12-meter J-Class yachts that are raced in America’s Cup. In an homage to the streamlined hulls and sweeping curves of the boats, the ‘J12’ has a seamless case and bracelet design. Its clean, legible dial and functional rotating bezel (which can be used as a timer) are both beautiful and purposeful – just like every element on board a yacht should be.

What really set the watch apart, though, was its use of ceramic. It was not a material that was widely used by watchmakers in 2000, when Chanel launched the ‘J12’.

Naturally, this was not your average pottery-shed ceramic. The material used to craft the case and bracelet is a high-tech iteration that is exceptionally hard (second only to diamonds), scratchproof, lightweight, and wonderfully glossy. And it’s produced in just one colour: black.

The J12’s positioning as a gender-neutral watch was also revolutionary at the time. Its sleek, glossy lines and chunky proportions captured the zeitgeist, and was a frontrunner in the Noughties trend for chunky ‘boyfriend watches’ for women.

Influential editors and celebrities soon flocked to waiting lists, with the model soon becoming one of the most sought-after watches of its time. Everyone wanted a ‘J12’. While copycat styles quickly came onto the market, the technical capabilities needed to master high-tech ceramics kept Chanel ahead of the pack, and ignited its reputation as a serious watchmaker – not just a fashion house.

Over the past 25 years, the ‘J12’ has continued to evolve. In 2003, Chanel released the equally iconic white ceramic version, in-keeping with Hélleu’s love of monochrome, which he considered to be a timeless combination (as did Coco Chanel). The horological heft of the watches increased as Chanel introduced tourbillons, moonphases, chronographs, and high-end mechanical movements to the collection, too. Then, in 2022, it introduced its first ‘J12’ movement that was made entirely in-house at Chanel.

While there has been the occasional use of other colours over the years – think blue or pink dial accents, the addition of coloured gemstones, the gunmetal sheen of the ‘J12 Chromatic’ (achieved by a ceramic-titanium blend) or the models that swapped ceramic for coloured crystal sapphire – the core collection has stayed steadfastly black or white. Until now.

This year, to mark a quarter century of this iconic watch, Chanel unveiled the ‘J12 Bleu’, featuring a stormy-blue ceramic in a matte finish. The intense colour has often been used by the house in fashion and beauty, and its origin story can be traced back to the boxes used to house Chanel’s 1932 Bijoux de Diamants jewellery collection (the house’s first experimentation with diamonds). It is, however, the first time that it has been used in watchmaking.

Indeed, it is notoriously difficult to achieve new hues of high-tech ceramic, as the colours can often be unstable, making reproducing them in the exact same colour each time challenging. Mastering this specific shade of blue for the ‘J12 Bleu’ took Chanel five years of experimentation.

“I dreamed of giving a colour to black, of illuminating it with blue,” says Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. “The final choice of this particular blue was like an epiphany. I wanted a blue that has a rigorous elegance; a blue that is nearly black or a black that is nearly blue.”

Move this particular ‘J12 Bleu Caliber 12.1’ (one of nine models) into different lights and you can see the ceramic switch from almost black in the shade, to a bright navy in the sunshine. Clever Chanel.

The moody aesthetic is continued on the dial, too. Rather than the bright, legible numbers of its predecessors, this model has glossy black numerals and hands. Meanwhile, the date is in white, positioned within a window quirkily placed between 4 and 5 o’clock.

Flip the watch and you’ll find a sapphire crystal caseback, too, allowing a full view of the self-winding Manufacture Caliber 12.1 movement within, which is chronometer-certified by COSC and has a power reserve of 70 hours.

Coco Chanel and Hélleu considered black the colour of mystery and eternity, and white the shade of perfection and purity, making them a perfectly opposing but complementary pairing to which they kept returning. But, of course, they aren’t colours: they are the absence of colour. What the ‘J12 Bleu’ has created is a scintillating true hue that binds both darkness and light, marking an exciting new chapter for the house – and a worthy heir to the monochrome legacy of Chanel’s iconic ‘J12’.

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Since its introduction into the Bottega Veneta accessories stable for the Spring/Summer 2023 season - under the tenure of then creative director Matthieu Blazy (now at Chanel) - the Andiamo bag has become quite the hit. It was originally shown at Blazy’s second show for the Italian fashion house, but admittedly it feels like it’s always been a part of the brand’s style repertoire.

Certainly, since its release, it’s been a part of many a fashion industry and celebrity’s arm candy collection (and enviably so), spotted on Jacob Elordi and Michelle Yeoh among them. It’s no wonder really, it’s a practical bag that harks back to the history of the house - a modern take on its signature Intrecciato bag, made from smooth leather. The Andiamo is striking - and in Bottega terms a real classic bag.

Elordi, who was named a brand ambassador for the house in early 2024, was clocked at the Spring/Summer 2025 show with a (punchy tomato) red version of the Andiamo in suede, which was noted as being from the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection.

Indeed, for Spring/Summer 2025, new colours and styles were added. And a new colour to get excited about right now is a dark green, which speaks to spring but can be worn again throughout the year - it’s not as defiant and definite as say a black, brown or navy, is - which tends to lean towards the colder months, worn with classic coats.

Meaning “Let’s go” in Italian, it taps into Bottega’s craftsmanship heritage yet at the same time provides a day-to-day practicality with its roomy shape and easy over-the-arm strap. Helpfully, it also comes in a range of sizes (though for this kind of bag, big is best, we think).

It is recognisable for its gold-finish hardware, which is elegant and delicate in the shape of a knot - and also gives what is otherwise quite a pragmatic bag a touch of femininity. It is boxy-but-slouchy in shape and structure with divided internal compartments (one with a zipped pocket), magnetic closure and a braided strap - wear it crossbody or over the shoulder, as well as over the arm.

As the weather warms up, it’s the sort of thing that will add a shot of seriousness and sophistication to a floral spring dress; or bring a welcome dose of texture to tailoring; and will even look great on days when dressing down in denim shorts and a T-shirt. The key to wearing anything with a woven pattern or technique, though, is to leave it at just that one piece - and ditto the bow detail. This is not the kind of bag to get matchy matchy with.

Available in three sizes - small, medium and large - whether you're looking for an every day carry-all that is roomier than you typical cross body bag) or an impeccably chic travel tote to carry onto the plane, the Andiamo tote bag ticks all the boxes.

Green marble table, available at Buchanan Studio

Shop the Bottega Veneta Andiamo bag

Under Hedi Slimane, Celine has given us all sorts of great bags - in fact that’s sort of how he made his entrance at the French fashion house, when Lady Gaga toted around a very ladylike bag from his first debut collection before it was even available back in 2018.

But it’s been all change at the Paris fashion house since it was announced in October 2024 that Slimane would depart and, as his replacement, Michael Rider would take over. Rider’s debut will take place in Paris on July 6.

In the meantime, the Paris brand has introduced the Camille bag, which is the latest addition to the 16 line - originally introduced by Slimane and named after Celine’s 16 Rue Vivienne Paris headquarters. Bags from the collection typically take inspiration from the lines of the 1960s Celine bag silhouettes.

The Camille 16 Soft bag has been made using refined calfskin leather and is noted for its soft touch and shiny finish. Its structured cut, which is trapeze-esque, one might observe, is borrowed from the 16 Soft Tote bag and, the brand says, embodies the sophisticated essence of Celine. It features the house’s gold-finish turn lock closure, which is shaped like a discreet jewel and a signature design detail among Celine’s 16 designs.

It cuts a neat silhouette, is clean and unfussy. But versatile through a short handle and the option of a longer adjustable handle. Two removable straps can be fixed and worn together or separately. For a bag that looks quite simple and refined, there are no end of options.

Which is likely why it’s found favour on the arms of Sydney Sweeny, Naomi Watts, Phoebe Dynevor and Reese Witherspoon, all of whom have been clocked wearing it out and about lately. Note: this celebrity favourite looks especially good with suiting. It’s very much the kind of bag you can take to work (because it looks serious) and then out in the evening (because it looks sophisticated). And, in tan, can likely get you through the spring and summer social calendar, too, without being some sort of dateable handbag trend. Part of its appeal also lies in the lack of overt logo or motif. Instead it is subtle.

Available in a medium size for the first season in black, tan and sand leather, there is also a smaller version in black, tan and rice leather, as well as natural python.

Credit: Special edition chair in zebra by Buchanan studio

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Recognised for its dinky-boxy shape, round top handles, cannage motif stitching and lucky charms, the Lady Dior bag is also well-known for its regal history. Originally called the Chouchou, it was renamed for the late Diana, Princess of Wales, who was a loyal fan and wore it often. To the Met Gala in 1996, she wore a mini version in what is now a much referenced fashion image when it comes to her style.

So the story goes, in 1995, the First Lady of France presented Diana with this brand new Dior bag, which had not yet been released. It wasn’t long afterwards that the royal was pictured wearing the bag, something she would do time and again - which is why Dior renamed it for her.

Since 2016, under Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Lady Dior has been the perfect canvas for artists to make their own, bringing to life ideas that go beyond the elegance and sophistication that is inherent of the bag. The Dior Lady Art project has enabled artists from all over the world to take on the maison’s iconic bag and put their own stamp on it. Which adds a whole new dose of desirability to an already desirable bag (indeed, to snag one of the Dior Lady Art project bags is something of a luxury two-in-one. A classic bag, which always makes for a great investment, as well as being a piece of collectable art. To wear it? Or to display it? That is the question.

But there are also many iterations of the Lady Dior itself, art aside.

In black crinkled leather with silver-finish eyelets and white resin pearls, this feels decidedly punk (for which there is always a place in fashion), but also a little bit pretty (pearls have been having a moment, or three, for some time now in fashion). It would add edge to a trouser suit, yet complement something in lace, a dress or a blouse. It’s the kind of bag that does the talking without the rest of your outfit having to try too hard, both in terms of texture and colour.

On to the details. Signature to the Lady Dior bag is its charms that spell out “DIOR”, here in antique silver-finish metal. This particular version, in medium, features a thin and removable leather strap so that it can be worn cross-body, a little more practical, though hand-held is still an option, for busy lives. It can also be paired with Dior’s other available embroidered straps for a bit of personalisation. And inside there is an interior zip pocket (security!) and a large slip pocket and, naturally, a dust bag to keep it safe and sound while being stored.

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Everyone knows about the Fendi Baguette. An iconic bag design first introduced in 1997 by Silvia Venturini Fendi, meant to be held nonchalantly under the arm like a chic French baguette, it was an instant hit. Status that was cemented in 1998 by one Sarah Jessica Parker as Carrie Bradshaw in Sex And The City when she pointed out - of her purple sequin - accessory: “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette” (she had other versions of it, too).

The design has been much celebrated since - a canvas for designers and artists to put their own stamp on, and a means to celebrate Fendi’s legacy of craftsmanship, collaborating with artisans both locally and globally. Jeff Koons customised a version for its 10th anniversary; for its 15th year came six re-editions of its most successful designs; and for its 25th, Sarah Jessica Parker and Marc Jacobs became key collaborators of the bag, which was the focus of a landmark show during New York Fashion Week.

But one should not forget the Mamma Baguette. Equally iconic. And now celebrating its own 25th anniversary in what is, incredibly, the centennial year for Fendi. Founded by Adele Casagrande Fendi and Edoardo in 1925, the family business was built on exceptional craftsmanship, attention to detail and material. Step forward the Mamma Baguette, which returns for the spring/summer 2025 season.

It is the mother of the Baguette and a tribute to Adele Casagrande Fendi. Designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi, who is a third generation family member and worked with both the late Karl Lagerfeld and Kim Jones, the bag is to be carried also on the shoulder.

What are the differences between it and the Baguette, you might ask?

The Mamma Baguette has the same rectangular shape, flap closure and FF logo as the Baguette, but where it differs is in the size and space on offer. It’s ample in that department. The bag is available in three sizes - small, medium and large. And notably, on the aesthetic side, has a drawstring, which makes it both a little more dressy and a little more casual, depending on which colour option and decoration you decide to go with.

In soft nappa, there is dove, black and white, pale pink, sage green, matcha green; with unique seasonal floral embroideries on beads and suede bases.

This version in pink with beautiful blooms feels just like the thing to use as we start to step into spring - especially as social events begin to populate the calendar… weddings, the races, flower shows and more. A styling note: bejewelled accessories should not be worn with anything else bejewelled (maybe, maybe an earring), let this bag do the talking - it is its birthday, after all.

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The snake-like Serpenti was Bulgari’s first icon of watchmaking, and it remains one of its most famous – and original – designs. Or as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s executive director of watch design, says: “Serpenti is more than an icon; it’s a signature.”

The first Serpenti watch was released in 1948, and it was not just a bold style statement but a celebration of female independence. This was a watch women could easily put on without any assistance. It was a striking, empowering style statement for those brave enough to wear it.

One of those women was the actress and notorious jewel hound Elizabeth Taylor, whose passion for Bulgari became the stuff of legend. As one of her husbands Richard Burton once quipped: “The only word in Italian Elizabeth knows is Bulgari.”

Taylor acquired her first Serpenti watch when she was shooting the 1963 film Cleopatra. Although she didn’t wear the watch during filming, she was photographed wearing it on set for a publicity still, and the coiling gold and diamond watch chimed perfectly with the Egyptian theme of the film.

What makes the Serpenti so special is its supple gold strap, which wraps around the wrist. Some versions, such as this one, have a chic single coil. Others can have as many as six, winding up the arm. The drama of this design has made it a red-carpet favourite to this day.

The goldsmithing technique Bulgari uses to create the Serpenti strap is tubogas. It is made by wrapping long gold strips with raised edges around a copper or wooden coiled core. The gold strips interlock as they are wound, and so don’t require soldering to seal them together. Once the core dissolved using acid, what is left is a stretchy, flexible length of gold that can be easily coiled and uncoiled around the wrist.

Sometimes, Bulgari will mix metals to create a striped effect, or in this case use a continuous coil of 18-carat gold that leads to the iconic Serpenti watch dial that is softly shaped in homage to a snake’s head. This particular model has silver opaline dial, engraved with a sunburst effect known as guilloché soleil. The dial is looped with brilliant-cut diamonds, and there is a pink cabochon-cut rubellite on the crown – another hallmark of this Bulgari icon.

Serpenti watches have, just like their namesake reptile, shed their skin and evolved over the decades since Taylor stepped out in hers. By the 1950s and 1960s, Serpenti watches started to take on a new look. In addition to the more abstract tubogas designs it had already been producing, it introduced more lifelike designs with realistic-looking heads set with diamond eyes. Attention was paid to the body of the snake, with the introduction of gold scales, often decorated with diamonds, coloured gemstones or swathes of bright enamel. This was no longer the suggestion of a snake, but a seemingly live, writhing serpent coiling around the arm.

The watch dials were hidden within the snakes’ hinged heads; to tell the time, the mouth of the snake must be prized open. Some of these early models had forked tongues. To power these jewellery watches, Bulgari teamed with the leading movement manufacturers of the day, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin and Piaget. Some of these early models were co-signed by Bulgari and the movement maker; this ended in the 1970s when Bulgari started producing its own movements. Today, it has a dedicated watchmaking manufacture in Le Sentier, Switzerland.

Snakes were very much in fashion at that time. As the legendary Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, who owned a Bulgari Serpenti watch, told her staff in a 1968 memo: “[The serpent] should be on every finger and all wrists… we cannot see enough of them.”

The 1970s led to the revival of the tubogas style of Serpenti, reflecting an increasingly casual sartorial mood. During this decade, Bulgari stopped making the scaled designs, although later revived them in 2021 as part of its high jewellery offer.

It was also in the 1970s that Bulgari introduced two-tone Serpenti watches, using gold and steel strips to create the wrapped design. Due to production complexities relating to the metals’ differing melting points, those early bi-metal models cost more than the pure gold versions.

The Serpenti has continued to shapeshift over the years. In the 1980s, the tubogas wrap strap was introduced to the Bvlgari Bvlgari collection, and then in 2009, to mark the brand’s 125th anniversary, a geometric line of watches with angular heads and scales arrived. In 2016, Serpenti Incanti was a new twist on the motif, with a cross-over design, while 2017’s Serpenti Twist offered a more casual and accessible version that replaced a gold bracelet with wraparound leather straps in bold colours.

In 2023, Bulgari introduced a new innovation in tubogas with Serpenti Inifinty. For the first time, the jeweller was able to set diamonds into the stretchy gold straps. However, to do so its craftspeople had to move away from using long, continuous strips of metal. Instead, it created individual gold rings that could be set with diamonds. These are then assembled on to a flexible titanium blade. The designs still carry the signature Serpenti look, but without the traditional tubogas.

The majority of contemporary Serpenti watches, including this model, are powered by quartz movements that require a battery, however the style could be shifting towards automatic movements that are powered by the motion of the wrist. During LVMH Watch Week 2025, Bulgari revealed a new in-house self-winding automatic movement, the Bvlgari BVS100 Lady Solotempo, which has been shaped by its watchmakers to fit inside the snake-shaped watch head. The movement, which took three years to develop, offers increased precision and more horological clout for serious watch collectors.

It is a natural progression for a watch that has held our fascination for more than 75 years. Snakes, after all, are symbols of rebirth and renewal, and it is likely that Bulgari will never stop reinventing the much-loved Serpenti.

Shop the Bulgari Serpenti Watch

The wave of noughties nostalgia recently back in fashion has brought with it an arsenal of old favourites, now newly collectible and investment-worthy. On the 20th anniversary of a landmark collaboration that united the fields of art and fashion (now each something of a mainstay of one another's industries) comes a re-edition collection of the iconic Louis Vuitton x Murakami collection. If you missed out the first time, now is your second chance.

Back in 2003, as part of the spring/summer 2003 collection, when Marc Jacobs was at the helm of the house (as its first ever ready-to-wear designer), the partnership with the contemporary Japanese artist on signature handbags and leather goods paved the way for a slew of future team-ups, both for the house itself (further artistic collaborations have included with Marc Newson, Cindy Sherman, Yayoi Kusama and Jeff Koons to name a few), and in fashion generally. Epitomising Y2K style, the collaboration has lived on beyond its original years, particularly on resale sites.

Not only did Murakami bring his joyful, playful and vibrant motifs, such as flowers and cherries, to the heritage maison, but it was the first time that the Louis Vuitton Monogram, which is as iconic as it is instantly recognisable, was reworked. And the bags, including styles such as the Speedy, Papillon and Pochette, soon became It-girl faves of the famed noughties era, we’re thinking Lindsay Lohan and Paris Hilton. The bags suddenly became bold and bright, and popped for a new century.

Now, there are more than 170 of the house’s creations that have been adorned with Murakami’s stylistic hand once more - City bags, belts, Speedy bags and even a skateboard, not to mention a made-to-order Malle Wardrobe - as part of Chapter One of the launch. The Monogram Multicolore features on a white background across The Venice, The Nano Speedy, The OnTheGo, and more, as well as sunglasses and exceptional creations. Options are also available on a black background, including a hat, basketball cap and sandals, combining the house’s savoir-faire in leather craft for a new generation.

The question is: which one to pick?

May we draw your attention to the Neverfull MM bag. Just as the brand notes, it is a “timeless” design, a holdall, throw-it-all-in, yet while still being able to maintain a sense of being put together owing to its sleek style. It’s simple and elegant. It’s practical and it’s pragmatic - which are key qualities to have in a bag.

In monogram coated canvas, it measures 31cm x 28 x 14; there is a hook closure and a flat inside zipped pocket as well as a removable pouch for flexibility. Featuring cowhide leather trim and gold colour hardware, inside is a textile lining, D-ring and four side laces. Louis Vuitton notes that a smartphone, keys, zipper wallet and earphones fit just fine. There are two single handles.

Beyond the practicalities, the Neverfull bag makes for the ideal canvas to show off the Murakami artwork. Whimsical blooms playfully climb up the bag, overlaid on the backdrop of the iconic Monogram classic. Murakami’s Monogram flowers appear in his superflat aesthetic. Ideal to bring some colour to an outfit in winter, it dresses up those dull days as we wait for spring.

It’s also the sort of perfect hybrid between the standard Neverfull, which is a classic, while snagging a piece of fashion and art history. Where other bag shapes and styles can be rooted to a time and a place, that’s not the case with the Neverfull.

With the days growing colder and holiday festivities quickly approaching, it's officially gifting and party-dressing season. This time of year brings countless opportunities to invest in a luxury gift for a loved one (or yourself) and to step into the celebrations with the ultimate statement shoe - a piece as timeless as it is festive.

Introducing Jimmy Choo’s Ruby Red Tinsel Ixia 95 pumps. Debuting as part of the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, these pumps are designed to embody the season's spirit. The collection focuses on party-ready pieces that are unique, playful, and elegantly sculpted—timeless enough for repeated wear yet fabulous enough to double as festive decor. New tree topper, anyone?

Tinsel is used throughout the collection with red or black tinsel featured on the Ixia 95 heels, the brand’s classic Bon Bon bags, and the Bing Pump flat shoes. However, the Ixia 95 instantly received cult status due to its winning combination plus a signature detail for the brand: its drop heel.

First introduced in Winter 2023, Jimmy Choo’s drop heel silhouette reflects the brand’s DNA, which draws inspiration from natural forms and architectural elegance, as seen in its signature diamond motifs. Shaped like a drop of liquid in motion, the teardrop heel is both fluid and strong—an embodiment of the dynamic, empowered Jimmy Choo woman.

After its release, the Drop Heel gained plenty of recognition amongst the fashion set and celebrities. Selena Gomez, Sydney Sweeney, Kaia Gerber, and Elle Fanning are amongst the shoe’s biggest fans who have embraced the heel, showcasing its versatility on red carpets and at events in various styles and heights. It's no surprise, then, that this celebrated silhouette has returned this year with a festive upgrade, perfectly timed for the holiday season.

With a classic pointed court shoe silhouette and leather lining throughout, the Ixia 95 pumps are set to become your chicest ally this party season. When it comes to styling these glamorous heels, the possibilities are endless.

For those who shy away from bold colors, the tinsel detailing and ruby red hue make a statement all on their own. As a firm believer in the ‘pop of red’ styling hack, these pumps pair perfectly with a neutral oversized suit or a classic black party dress. Add sheer tights for extra warmth, and you're ready to go.

On the other hand, if you're a maximalist, these tinsel heels are the perfect addition to the festive section of your wardrobe. Simply add to your favourite red outfit with statement jewellery for some final touches.

Regardless of your approach, if you’re looking to stand out this holiday season, Jimmy Choo’s Ixia 95 is the bold, artful shoe that will turn heads and remain a timeless treasure in your collection for years to come.

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Undisputedly one of fashion’s most coveted pieces, the Chanel Flap Bag is a timeless icon. Introduced in the 1950s as a breakthrough in designer handbags, the 2.55 Flap Bag dared to challenge women’s handbag norms by offering a shoulder strap in contrast to traditional handheld designs.

Making a case for women’s accessories to be both practical and stylish in equal measure, the Flap Bag captured the cultural zeitgeist with its design and approach to functionality—as more women moved into the workplace.

With its modern design featuring Chanel’s diamond-stitch quilting and the iconic burgundy interior lining—motifs inspired by men’s jackets and Coco Chanel’s early childhood through her uniform at the Aubazine Abbey convent—the Flap Bag was an instant hit.

Since then, the bag has been reimagined many times, inspiring many other iconic handbag styles. In the 1980s, former creative director Karl Lagerfeld reinterpreted the Flap Bag with another set of features that would become classic brand motifs. These included the Double C turn-lock closure and a sophisticated leather woven chain, all of which continue to reappear in modern versions of the bag. Additionally, Lagerfeld also introduced the Double Flap Bag within the Flap Bag lineage, which simply features an additional exterior flap for extra storage.

Over the years, Lagerfeld continued to innovate upon Chanel’s iconic designs, with the Flap Bag as a key source of inspiration. Variations like the Mini Flap, the Chanel 19 Flap, and the Single Flap helped solidify the Flap Bag’s enduring authority, which remains strong 70 years after its launch.

The classic bag’s elegance and endless reinventions continue to attract Hollywood’s A-list, with stars like Victoria Beckham, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Katie Holmes frequently photographed carrying this iconic accessory. But celebrities aren’t the only ones drawn to its allure; style enthusiasts and avid luxury collectors alike hail the Chanel Flap Bag as one of the most iconic handbags of all time.

With artistry at its forefront, each classic bag is meticulously crafted by hand at Ateliers de Verneuil-en-Halatte, one of the brand’s prized workshops, where artisans train for at least four years to master the techniques required to create these handbags. The process takes around 15 hours and up to 180 steps, which explains why this timeless bag remains a signature luxury item in the fashion world.

This season has been no exception, with Lagerfeld’s successor, Virginie Viard, presenting her ultimate vision for the Flap Bag in her final collection for Chanel during the autumn/winter 2024 season. Among the 68 handbags showcased, a clear standout emerged: a distinguished Flap Bag adorned in shearling.

Introducing the Shearling Lambskin Flap Bag: this exquisite purse features a classic silhouette with shearling trim along the top flap and back. The upper part of the bag showcases the brand’s distinctive diamond-quilted pattern, while the lower section was created in the brand's signature Brown 22 leather. Viard chose a timeless 24K gold double-C hardware, complementing the bag’s brown strap. Truly, a quintessential collector’s piece.

The bag first appeared on the catwalk earlier this year, styled with a matching lambskin and shearling jacket, cuffed straight-leg jeans, and sleek black boots. Swaying effortlessly as the model held it in one hand, the handbag instantly became a standout of the new season. Amid spectators' oohs and ahs, the bag—while magnificent in design—also captures Chanel’s signature craftsmanship. At the same time, it maintains a playful touch, blending traditional materials and textures for the holiday season with the brand’s celebrated elegance.

Shop the Chanel Flap Bag

It is a truth universally acknowledged that we are now fully in the throes of a boho style revival – and that the woman responsible for such a renaissance is Chemena Kamali, the creative director who joined Chloé in 2023.

Seven months ago, we were none the wiser, our wardrobes largely ruffle-less, and anything resembling early-aughts bohemia resigned to attics and storage containers. That was until we first laid eyes on the Maxime wedge – the first glimpse of Kamali's bohemian new Chloé, revealed not on the Autumn/Winter 2024 catwalk, but upon the feet of show guests, including Sienna Miller, Liya Kebede, Kiernan Shipka, Georgia May Jagger, Pat Cleveland and Suzy Bemba.

You couldn't miss the shoes – not only because of their sizeable wedge heels, but also because there was a whole sea of them, front row. It was a moment that was prolifically photographed and shared on social media. A new It shoe – and Kamali's Chloé – was born.

If Maxime seems familiar, it's because it riffs on a shoe first released as part of Phoebe Philo's Spring/Summer 2006 collection for Chloé, which was the former (and much lauded) creative director's swan song for the house. The original iteration featured a similar wooden platform but with T-shaped straps.

This season's Maxime wedge has an even more vertiginous heel than its predecessor, and having tried it on at our shoot, we can confirm it adds a satisfying amount of height. The wood-effect platform is liberally adorned with references to the Maison's heritage, 'like engraved love notes on a tree', including 1952 – the date that Gaby Aghion created Chloé.

It has criss-cross straps in cow's leather, which, importantly, is supplied by a Leather Working Group certified tannery, assessed based on their use of water and energy, chemicals and waste in production. The finishing touch: a Chloé-embossed buckle in gold.

I know a collector's piece when I see one, and Maxime fits the bill. I still bemoan not owning the iconic banana top from Chloé's Spring/Summer 2004 collection. It is now near-impossible to track down, and when it does pop up on the vintage market, it is prohibitively expensive, such is its rarity. I won't make the same mistake with these shoes, which, as part of Kamali's acclaimed debut collection for the maison, have serious collector's appeal.

The shoe comes in black (as worn by the Chloé front rowers) or a warm ginger-brown, both of which are the perfect partners to the house's diaphanous chiffon dresses and majestic tartan maxi coats. The hard part is choosing which pair to invest in.

Shop Chloé's Maxime sandals:

Timeless is an oft-overused word, but it couldn't more accurately describe Roger Vivier's designs. For example, the designer's Belle Vivier shoes (famously worn by Catherine Deneuve in the film, Belle de Jour) remain as chic as they did when they were first launched in 1965. Now that's what you call sartorial staying power.

So when the brand debuted a new must-have bag, we sat up and took notice. Classic yet contemporary, the Viv' Choc is handmade in Italy from draped leather with gently rounded edges – a nod to the distinctive, curved Choc heel, first dreamt up by Monsieur Vivier in 1959, 65 years ago.

Out front, the label's signature, rounded buckle frames a sleek, turn-key lock. At the back, there is a slip pocket – perfect for keeping your phone close at hand. It is suspended upon a decorative-link chain, which can be detached and swapped out for the shoulder strap, or it can be styled as a clutch. It's chic, it's versatile – and we're quite sure it's going to be a future classic.

The Viv' Choc was designed by Roger Vivier's creative director Gherardo Felloni, with timelessness and modernity, opulence and practicality in mind. It's made up of over 70 individual pieces, including custom hardware – a testament to the brand's legacy of impeccable craftsmanship.

The bag features in the brand's recent 'Vivier Express Travelling Icons', a series of short films that showcase the maison's iconic designs. Actor Laura Dern is journeying through the French countryside on the luxurious, velvet-lined 'Vivier Express' train, with the Viv' Choc in pillowy black leather. She has a brief encounter with a handsome stranger, who seems to be sketching her, admiringly. He suddenly departs, but not before handing her the finished portrait – which, as it turns out, doesn't depict Dern but rather, the bag.

The Viv' Choc comes in four sizes, including the large version featured here (which is ideal for every day), a medium size, a mini, and in phone-holder form. Evolutions of the design also include a shopping bag and a curved, mini crossbody.

It has been reimagined in butter-soft suede and smooth leather, bedazzled with shimmering rhinestones and glittering paillettes, and embellished with swishy fringing. For Autumn/Winter, Felloni introduced a '60s-inspired, black-and-white iteration, inspired by the decade's Op Art movement.

Th Viv' Choc may be younger than some of the 60-year-old icons in the Roger Vivier stable, but trust us – it's set to be a future heirloom.

With thanks to The Sanderson London, 50 Berners St, London W1T 3NG

Shop the Roger Vivier Viv Choc

Designing cult accessories is in Miuccia Prada’s blood. As the youngest granddaughter of Mario Prada, who founded the luxury leather goods company in 1913, Miuccia took over the business in 1978. After nearly 50 years at the helm, Prada is today not only considered one of the most iconic Italian fashion houses but continues to design some of the most sought after accessories money can buy. So it’s no surprise that when it comes to making that all important investment handbag purchase, Prada is often front of mind. In fact, the fashion house topped The Lyst Index's hottest brands list at the end of 2023, moving into the top spot for the third time, with searches for the brand up by 41 percent YoY.

Fast forward to her most recent design, the Prada Buckle bag was first debuted on the catwalk for Spring/Summer 2024, and is the latest in a long line of sought after handbags from Miuccia Prada. Created alongside co-creative director Raf Simons, the Buckle bag seamlessly merges the brand’s signature style references of craftsmanship and Miuccia’s love of unexpected utility accents.

The roomy tote features top handles sewn in a way that allows for the leather belt to be removed making it fully customisable - and the belt can be left open for a more casual effect or closed for a more polished finish. The Buckle bag already has a long list of A-list fans including Chloe Sevigny, Dua Lipa, Lily James and Alexa Chung and is available in black, white and tan - with or without hand embroidered metal studs - and is available in three sizes.

Miuccia Prada has a long history of designing iconic handbags. From the Galleria bag first released in 2007, a spacious and paired back top handle tote, to the more recent Cleo bag debuted in 2021, that fast became a must-have amongst the most stylish content creators around the world - Miuccia has a love of mixing the unexpected using utilitarian fabrications and details on her designs. Most notably is her use of nylon, first introduced in 1985 with the launch of the iconic Nylon Prada backpack and reissued in 2019. The fabric is now featured across accessories and clothing and is synonymous with the brand.

If Miuccia's track record is anything to go by, along with the bag's fast-growing celebrity fan base and the welcomed return of larger and more practical oversized tote bags this season, then the Buckle bag is already on it's way to achieving cult status. If you want in, you better be quick - the Buckle bag is already selling out fast.

Shop the Prada Buckle bag in store or online at Prada.com

Shop the Prada Buckle bag

In 2023 Sabato De Sarno joined Gucci as the new Creative Director, his first position leading a luxury fashion house following various stints on the design teams at Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino. De Sarno unveiled his debut collection for the Italian fashion house in September of the same year, titled Gucci ‘Ancora’. Signature house codes ran throughout the collection, including the iconic Jackie—one of the best designer bags out there—this time though, in Gucci 'Rosso', a new house shade.

Gucci 'Rosso' is a deep and rich shade of oxblood, slightly darker than the middle colour in Gucci’s iconic striped motif. It’s not as bright or commercial as one might expect, but it’s no coincidence that this almost burgundy shade became one of the most popular accessory colours this winter. This detail is more significant than it appears, as luxury fashion houses strive to create signature colours that customers can associate with their brand. De Sarno used the colour across monogram-embossed leather skirts, jacquard fabrics, and most recently unveiled a Gucci Beauty lipstick in 'Gucci Rosso' at his Cruise 2025 catwalk show in London. And what really caught our attention were the accessories, specifically the iconic Jackie bag.

The Jackie was first issued in 1961 and story has it that Jackie Kennedy carried the bag so many times and used it to shield herself from the paparazzi’s glaring camera lenses, that it was eventually renamed the Jackie bag. Over the years it has seen many iterations and reinventions from florals to tassels, but Sabato’s contemporary design in oxblood features a metal clip closure and a high gloss finish.

The timeless design is a testament to the bag’s enduring appeal, spanning over 60 years, most recently with celebrities including Dua Lipa, Jodie Turner-Smith, Jessica Chastain and Jodie Comer photographed carrying the bag. A smaller version is available with a long silver chain strap called ‘Gucci Notte’ - perfect worn as a daytime cross-body or evening bag.

Discover the Gucci Jackie bag and some of our favourite new season colours below...

Shop The Gucci Jackie Collection

Having played around with extremities in previous years, from the super small to the very oversized, the spring/summer 2024 collections had a renewed interest in the bijoux bag. Pretty, petite, ornamental.

At Bulgari, the Roman fine jewellery Maison, it’s been a speciality for some time—owing to its signature motif, the Serpenti snake, making the move from jewellery and watches to handbags. Among them: the Serpenti Forever, the Serpenti Tote, the Serpenti Forever East West and the Serpenti Baia shoulder bag, the latter pictured above.

Founded in 1884 by the Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, the distinctive interpretation of the reptile first debuted in 1948 as jewellery and watches. By the 1950s, the design had become more realistic and featured coloured enamels and gemstones; in the 1960s, materials literally scaled up to simulate the serpent’s appearance. And, the design has continued to evolve in technique, make, colour and material ever since, having already celebrated 75 years. There are bracelets, rings, necklaces and earrings.

But back to the bags.

The best-selling Serpenti Forever was the focus of the 2021 initiative Serpenti Through the Eyes Of to which the designer Mary Katrantzou contributed a design inspired by the archives—in a fun twist of fate, the Greek designer was recently appointed as Bulgari’s creative director of leather goods and accessories—including handbags and one-off high jewellery clutch bags (something to be very excited about).

We’re sizing up the Baia, already an emerging street style favourite worn by stars Amiaya.

Its vital statistics?

A small shoulder bag with two detachable, thick snake body-shaped chains—it can also work as a cross-body bag with another adjustable chain strap—and the recognisable snakehead magnetic closure.

Measuring in at 27.5 x 18 x 4.5 cm, it features a single compartment (easy to find things) with a zip-top closure (ideal for security and safety) and an internal flat open pocket (great for organisation). Made from calf leather with internal nappa lining, hardware is plated gold brass; with onyx for the Serpenti eyes and gold-plated brass, enamel and light gold-plated brass scales for the head.

The website currently has 10 colour options, from silver to mustard and pink—ideal for a summertime dopamine hit. A Milky Opal Pearly Karung version is also being released for high summer. Its leather is hand-sprayed with a mixture of pearl dust to give it a pink sheen, a softer sunset-ready take on the style.

“I would really describe it [the Baia] as this generation's minaudière—a blend between a bag and a piece of jewellery,” says Dino Bonacic, a noted bag aficionado (he started a newsletter dedicated to them in 2022), and fashion commentator.

He pinpoints its shape as standing out against the continued trend for oversized bags, enabling still though a phone and the few practicalities one might need; and that the range of colours and textures available makes it “almost like a collectible”. Further, “the strap is truly the highlight,” he says, “it feels like a piece of fine jewellery that reflects the Bulgari’s brand identity.”

How would he wear it? “I always love to see evening bags outside their intended context—going against the grain,” he suggests, “casualness but finishing an outfit with something so decadent.”

Of course, the beauty of a bijoux bag for summer is: it doesn’t feel as dressy during the day, it just feels fun. But can easily transform as the afternoon turns to evening.

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Fashion’s predilection for a brilliantly bonkers shoe has long been brewing. But this year it’s really stepped into its own. There is no missing JW Anderson’s smiley face frog slippers, or Loewe’s balloon pumps, not to mention MSCHF’s clompy red cartoon boots. And at the spring/summer 2024 shows, just gone, AVAVAV’s four-toed boots became a recurring street-style sighting.

But before all of these, there was Maison Martin Margiela's Tabi boot. Hoof-like, in a Chronicles of Narnia kind of way, they are the original divisive footwear design in fashion, even though their history extends far beyond their circa 1988/89 debut by the Belgian designer Martin Margiela.

The story goes that the fashion wunderkind, who is known for a deconstructionist aesthetic, took a trip to Tokyo after he had left his then role at Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris. Since the 15th century, split-toe socks, known as tabi socks, have been worn in Japan—thought to promote balance. It was these that caught the eye of the designer as he embarked upon setting up his namesake label.  

The footwear would famously feature in his first show, dipped in red paint so that hoof imprints followed the models as they went. A cult classic was born: one with an intellectual and subversive fashion air, worn only by those who knew. And frowned upon by those who didn’t. 

Until now. Following the viral Tabi Swiper TikTok mini drama earlier this year (in which a woman's date stole her beloved Margiela shoes), the fashion and technology platform Lyst reported a 342 per cent spike in searches for the Tabi, and noted the Tabi Mary Jane as being among the most wanted fashion items this third quarter. 

Chloe Sevigny, Zendaya, Dua Lipa are all fans, clocked in versions from dainty flats to the signature boots. Emily Cooper, aka Lily Collins, in Emily in Paris also wore them for the fashion-mad TV show. 

And certainly, they have already been memed over by the ever popular (and on point) Real Housewives of Clapton Instagram account, which has satirically proffered Tabi Bobbing (bobbing for apples wearing Tabis) among a new East London craze for Halloween. The shoes were originally filed among its 'Pub Footwear Guide' - which also includes jelly shoes, Birkenstocks, Crocs, bare feet and Salomon trainers - in which it congratulates owners of the Tabi for now being able to have conversations about them with their fellow Tabi owners. 

And there are many, besides the famous faces. The Instagram account MargielaTab1, with its 46.5k followers, brings together multiple iterations of the shoe from collectors and fashion insiders, sharing archive designs and even a birthday cake made to look like them.

Not "just footwear," declares the resale site Vestiaire Collective, where there are pages of them up for grabs for a new generation hungry for nostalgia (and bovine feet). "They’re a masterpiece of fashion and art," it continues. "These iconic shoes are celebrated for their unique design, exceptional craftsmanship, and their ability to seamlessly blend artistic expression with wearable fashion."

Today, the shoe has been taken under the watchful eye of John Galliano, who was appointed to the creative helm of Maison Margiela in 2014 (a choice reportedly approved of by the reclusive Margiela, who had left the brand in 2009). Loafers, cowboy boots, ballet flats, sneakers and stiletto style Tabis are among those that have been additionally trotted out since, adding a new dimension and convivial spin to everyday classics. 

"The essential meaning of the Tabi is different today in that it does not represent the outsider, the weirdo, the knowingly anti-norm as it once did," says Dal Chodha, a London-based writer and consultant—and owner of a pair of ankle-length flat Tabi boots in leather. 

He recalls how in the early 2000s when he first wore the split-toe style in the form of the Nike Air Rift trainer (which is not a direct relative of the Tabi but certainly among its friendship circle), he enjoyed how much people would squirm when they saw them. 

Of their popularity now he says, "There is something wonderful in how our tastes and our openness to difference has come so far that barely anyone will bat an eyelid if they spotted a Tabi out in the wilds of Kent or Bedfordshire." 

For Naoki Watanabe, a luxury fashion PR, who also came across them first in the early 2000s, the appeal has always been in the connection. "I love Margiela's Tabi," he shares, "Simply, because they reference traditional Japanese culture."

This season, loafers and slingbacks have had the Tabi treatment. Try a dark-wash pair of jeans, or a tailored trouser with the loafer depending on whether you're doing casual or smart. You might even be able to wear them into the office. A mid-length fitted slit skirt, or cropped trousers/jeans will work with the slingbacks, as they would also with something more dressy if heels aren't your thing. A vintage dress will bring an autumnal feel to the boots, which of course are a classic. 

Shop the Margiela Tabi

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Utter the words 'Alexander McQueen' to any fashion enthusiast and their eyes are sure to light up. The luxury house and late designer have become symbols of ingenuity and innovation, responsible for some of the most memorable fashion moments over the last few decades.

McQueen himself has been described as one of fashion's greatest showmen, having pioneered the popularity of the fashion show spectacle. Look to any list of iconic runways throughout history and Alexander McQueen's Spring 1999 catwalk will undoubtedly be on it. Shalom Harlow's staring role being spray painted atop a rotating platform is still regularly referenced today by editors and designers, alike.

The house's Spring/Summer 2010 collection complete with reptilian-inspired designs and those incredibly unique arched 'Armadillo' shoes is another one for the history books and can be credited as the moment that helped this particular editor fall in love with the fantasy of fashion.

Of course, when it comes to iconic designs, there is no shortage of standouts to choose from, and while it might not be practical to wear some couture creations on a daily basis, you can take the brand's wearable art with you in the form of its accessories.

Indeed, the house's statement-making handbag collection offers customers a way to bring the magic of McQueen into their everyday lives, and the new additions have all the hallmarks of It-bags in the making. 

The Biker Jewelled Satchel

First launched in 2018, Alexander McQueen's rectangular jewelled satchel bag has been reinvented a few times since its inception, with bold cross-body straps, different hardware additions and varied fabrications, appearing in several different combinations.

Though, throughout all of this reimaging, the one element that has remained constant is the item's distinctive four-ring feature. Also seen on the Jewelled Hobo bag below, this hardware has become a hallmark of McQueen's accessories.

As the brand describes, the knuckle feature was first introduced by McQueen himself and was inspired by London street culture, created to "juxtapose urban toughness with the beauty and refinement of jewellery." Each duster has four rings, which are topped with contrasting symbols, including two skulls placed alongside a crystal and a flower-covered design. 

Over the years, these symbols have all become synonymous with Alexander McQueen's collection, though none more prominently than the skull motif. 

As an element in McQueen's creations, the skull symbol can be traced back as early as 1992, when the designer used the feature in his Central Saint Martins graduate collection entitled, 'Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims.' The skull motif has since become a part of the brand's house codes, used across everything from scarves to jewellery and handbags. 

The Jewelled Hobo Bag

Featuring details that have been plucked straight from the house codes, The Jewelled Hobo bag would be instantly-recognisable to any fan of the brand. Utilising the label's knuckleduster hardware and skull motif, the accessory is quintessential McQueen. 

Originally debuted as a part of the house's Pre-Spring 2023 collection, the Jewelled Hobo is one of the brand's newer bags, though it has already solidified itself as a favourite in its short history. Recently, the bag has been toted by the likes of Naomi Campbell, Taylor Russel and Michelle Yeoh, while It-girl Sadie Sink also appears holding the bag in the brand's Spring/Summer 2023 campaign. 

According to McQueen, the bag's facetted triangular silhouette was inspired by the large stone that sits within the knuckleduster design, reflecting the flat surfaces that sit on the diamond shape. Meanwhile, the four-ring hardware has been borrowed from McQueen's previous designs, emulating the aesthetic of the Jewelled Biker Satchel above. 

With a little research, it becomes clear McQueen's accessories are more than just bags. They're portable pieces of artwork that can be taken with you, holding all the symbolism and spirit evoked by the label since its creation in 1992. Not for the faint of heart, McQueen's Jewelled Hobo and Biker Satchell bag should be carried by those intent on making a statement. 

Shop the Alexander McQueen Jewelled Hobo and Biker Jewelled Satchel

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What makes an icon? It’s a question often pondered in the arena of fashion, and a label often overused. Longevity? Timelessness? Mass appeal? A combination of all of the above? Perhaps it’s less prescriptive; a magical conjuncture of qualities we’ll never quite be able to put our collective finger on. Whatever it is, we can be fairly certain that Dior’s Saddle bag has it.

It made its debut in 1999, designed by then-Creative Director John Galliano as part of Dior’s spring/summer 2000 collection. Fashion lore suggests it was inspired by photographer Helmut Newton’s iconic, provocative 1976 composition ‘Saddle 1’, though this remains a mysterious, unconfirmed nugget of information. 

Shown on the cusp of the millennium, it was part of a collection that signalled the dawn of noughties fashion. On the catwalk, models including Gisele tucked the bag snuggly under their armpit, its flattened shape hugging the side of their body, arm crooked and thumb casually hooked on the stirrup-esque hanging ‘D’ clasp. “It was new and different, from the shape, colours, fabrics and textures, to how it was designed to be worn—close and fitted against the body—was all new and exciting,” remembers Ceanne Fernandes-Wong, CEO and co-founder of handbag subscription rental platform Cocoon, where both vintage and contemporary versions of the bag have a 100% utilisation rate, meaning they are constantly booked out by members. 

The fear of the millennium bug safely behind us, we galloped into a decade in which fashion and celebrity became both consumable and inextricably linked like never before. As accessibility to the internet widened, so did our exposure to celebrity style. Fashion TV reached its zenith; The Clothes Show made way for makeover formats like What Not To Wear, bringing fashion with a capital F to the everywoman, lifting it from the pages of glossy magazines and beaming it into the living rooms and everyday lives of the masses. Sex And The City settled into its third season, the eclectic, designer-heavy wardrobe of protagonist Carrie Bradshaw becoming evermore a draw. This heady concoction set the stage for the era of the ‘It bag’, an era that arguably began when Bradshaw toted a white, pink and gold chain-print version of the Saddle bag in episode five of season three. 

By 2001, the bag had helped Dior’s accessories sales soar by 60% as ubiquitous noughties celebs including Paris Hilton, Nicole Ritchie and Mischa Barton were pictured carrying it. Its popularity peaked in 2003, before tapering off to be superseded by various It bag successors, including Mulberry’s Roxy, Chloe’s Paddington and Marc Jacobs’ Stam. Nevertheless, it had sparked a phenomenon that would see handbags become the ultimate status symbol—a trophy purchase to be paraded—and therefore the most lucrative cog in the engines of major luxury fashion houses. 

After disappearing, in 2014, the Saddle unexpectedly resurfaced—clutched by the perfectly manicured hand of Beyonce no less; an icon carrying an icon. A relic from her Destiny’s Child era perhaps, its reappearance set in motion a chain reaction that would gradually see the style resurrected from its nadir. Two years later K-Pop sensation CL took to Instagram toting a vintage velvet limited edition 2003 Saddle with ‘Adiorable 69’ emblazoned across it.

A whole new audience was introduced to the style and the resurgence gathered pace, with various resale and vintage sites noting an uptick in searches. (The same bag, in mint condition, will currently set you back more than £3,000 on some resale sites.) Soon, high-profile models and influencers were seen carrying vintage Saddles too. 

By 2018, with Dior now under the creative leadership of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the brand formally reintroduced the bag as part of the autumn/winter 2018 collection. It was a smart move. As a spokesperson for resale platform Vestiaire Collective points out, the reissuing of a once-iconic design “reinforces the message that their designs are timeless and meant to be reused and cherished, rather than being discarded after one season. This shift aligns with the growing focus on sustainability and responsible fashion practices in the industry.”

Its design was adapted to modern-day life, with a slightly larger capacity to accommodate phones and other gadgets, and the addition of a removable strap to allow it to be worn across the body, but its key features remained untouched. A social media campaign feted the retail launch in July of that year, with 100 of the world’s biggest fashion influencers simultaneously posting a photo of themselves with the new Saddle. Searches for the bag—both vintage and new—spiked 957% in 48 hours, according to Lyst, which named it the hottest women’s product in its 2018 Q3 Lyst Index. And so its resurrection was complete.

Its return has gone hand-in-hand with the revival of early-noughties fashion trends (much to the horror of many a Millennial). From chain mail tops and low-rise jeans to corsets and cargo pants, the sartorial sins of our past have been repackaged for a new generation by the likes of Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner—and Dior’s Saddle fits snugly within that aesthetic in an impressively unironic way. Add to that our growing appetite for vintage and preloved fashion, and you have the perfect recipe for a comeback. 

Now, as we reach peak Barbiecore amid the release of the live-action film, so too does this iconic bag with its latest iteration; hot pink. And just like Barbie, the Saddle bag has firmly cemented itself in history—and provided the ultimate proof that fashion really is cyclical.

Shop the Dior Saddle and Slingback Pumps 

Before Telfar’s cult tote bag or Jacquemus’ mini Chiquito, there was the Mulberry Bayswater. A sizable holdall with an air of enlarged 1950s proper handbag, it landed in 2003, two years after Balenciaga’s hit City bag and a year before Chloe’s very popular Paddington design - it was the era of the “It” bag. And the Bayswater, named after the west London neighbourhood, was notably Mulberry’s first, spotted often on the arm of Kate Moss (she had many), who wore hers dressed down with skinny jeans and shades. This year marks the bag’s 20th anniversary, and accordingly Mulberry has debuted a new take on a much-loved style with some updated tweaks in versatile shapes, sizes and punchy dopamine-inducing shades. 

“It remains an emblem of enduring style and continues to be one of our best-loved designs,” says Thierry Andretta, CEO of the luxury British brand originally founded in Somerset in 1971 by Roger Saul. 

A cultural Icon

The bag’s birthday comes at a time of ongoing and renewed interest in the Y2K trend (arguably the heyday of the “It” bag); plus a rise in the indie sleaze era. Both, in part, owing to TikTok’s ability to shake fashion nostalgia to the surface like nothing else. Fashion has been rekindling its romance with the early '00s for some time now, which meant its gaze would inevitably soon shift towards the later '00s, when festival dressing and vintage clothes became a mainstay of mix-it-up London style and the importance of the “It” bag continued to dominate. Mulberry introduced the Alexa, named after Alexa Chung, in 2010; the Del Rey, named after Lana Del Rey, in 2012; and the Cara, named after Cara Delevingne in 2014. 

Re-releases and updates of cult “It” bags have also proved popular in recent years, just look to Dior’s saddle bag in 2018 or Fendi’s archival baguettes in 2022. And resale sites mean one can easily delve back into the fashion past to snap up originals. Meanwhile, lately, our attention couldn’t help but turn to more practical and roomy bags courtesy of Succession spotlighting those of a “ludicrously capacious” size —and the Bayswater was always a bag that could hold lots of things.

Back in 2003, without social media, it was snaps of Moss—whose personal Bayswater was included in the Victoria & Albert Museum’s 2020 exhibition Bags: Inside Out—with the bag held over her arm, that propelled its hero status. In subsequent years, it was Sienna Miller (who at that time was a pin-up for quintessential British bohemian style which chimed with the brand’s Somerset roots), Lily Allen, Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, Eva Longoria, Blake Lively and the original Gossip Girl, where Blair Waldorf, played by Leighton Meester, wore a memorable red version of the design. 

The show’s then costume assistant Jennifer Michalski-Bray (now a celebrity and fashion stylist) points out, “The Bayswater bag seems like an obvious choice for Blair Waldorf as her character was always seen carrying a timeless bag from the Lady Dior to the Classic Chanel. Eric Daman, costume designer of the show and my old boss, was very intentional with his outfits and bags were no exception. Blair always favoured iconic forever bags.” This one, recognisable by its postman’s lock. Over the years, it was joined by different iterations, small and zipped.

For Andretta, “It is always wonderful to see a bag capture the public interest, but our ultimate goal is to make bags that will be used for a lifetime and passed onto the next generation.” 

It is for this reason that Mulberry introduced its circular exchange programme, where customers can trade their existing bags for credits towards new ones; Mulberry also refurbishes and authenticates those handed in. And since 2022, bags have been crafted from environmentally accredited and carbon-neutral leather. The Bayswater has also undergone a Lifestyle Cycle Assessment to help identify further ways to reduce its carbon emissions. 

For the 20th anniversary, three new Bayswater styles have been introduced: The Compact East West, a smaller design; the North South tote shoulder bag; and the Zipped Bayswater tote, which is spacious and adaptable. Colours on offer for the original design include geranium pink, acid green, and pigment blue (and of course, there are still pre-loved ones up for grabs). And all of this is brought to life in a new campaign photographed by Ronan McKenzie featuring Lily McMenamy, Alva Claire and Laura Morgan. 

Shop the Mulberry East West Bayswater