At times, it can feel like we are at war with our skin. You want clear and radiant skin for a big event, but your skin delivers a blemish the size of a football on your chin. You finally find a skincare routine that tackles your hyperpigmentation effectively, only to catch sight of yourself in the mirror, and realise that your skin has embraced the full effects of gravity. It's a quiet, ongoing battle so many of us know well. And it seems as though the other side has just introduced its deadliest sounding weapon: zombie cells.

What might sound like something straight out of a horror film is, in fact, the name given to cells that have stopped dividing thanks to stress or damage. These cells should, at this point, die, but they don't, hence the 'zombie' moniker. Zombie cells, or senescent cells to use their proper name, occur throughout your body and are often linked to the longevity conversation. Instead of dying, they lie dormant, but they are by no means idle. When they accumalate they send out inflammatory signals, which contribute to age-related diseases, increased inflammation and accelerated ageing.

So what does this mean for our skin? Can we intervene and prevent 'zombie cells' from entering the combat, or are we fighting a losing battle? We asked some of the UK's leading dermatologists for answers.

What are zombie cells?

Zombie, or senescent cells, are cells that stopped dividing, but don't die when they should. "They hang around in the skin in a sort of half-alive, dysfunctional state," says Maxwell Stock, CEO and founder of Epicutis. This clinically grounded skincare brand focuses on long-term skin health, barrier integrity and longevity.

The formation of senescent cells is considered a natural response to cellular stress and part of the ageing process. "Senescent cells form when cells experience significant stress or damage, such as DNA injury from UV exposure, pollution, radiation, metabolic stress, or simply repeated cell division over time," Consultant Dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips explains. "In response, the cell switches into a protective mode and permanently stops dividing. When these cells accumulate, they release inflammatory signals and enzymes that break down collagen and elastin. This weakens the skin’s structural framework and interferes with normal repair processes." He says that over time, this contributes to inflammaging—a state of chronic, low-level inflammation.

What are their effects on the skin?

So how does our skin react? "This can accelerate visible signs of ageing, including fine lines, loss of firmness, sagging and a thinner, more fragile texture," Dr Phillips says. "The persistent inflammation they generate can also contribute to dullness and increased skin sensitivity."

Whilst the formation of these cells is, to a degree, expected, "the problem comes from the chronic accumulation," says Aesthetic Doctor, Dr Sophie Shotter on behalf of Allergan Aesthetics. That's when the zombie cells "release SASP (senescence-associated secretory phenotype) signals that can damage the local environment. Nearby cells then become less functional, and more cells can be pushed toward senescence. Over time, you see thinner/less resilient skin, more collagen fragmentation, more barrier vulnerability, and slower recovery from stress and procedures." It's not going to be an overnight dramatic change, says Stock. This is more about a gradual decline in how well the skin functions.

Dr Dev Patel, aesthetic doctor and founder of Perfect Skin Solutions, explains why it's not just the skin on our faces that's affected: "In the scalp, that inflammatory environment may impair follicle function and regeneration, which is why senescence is increasingly being explored as one of the contributors to hair thinning and age-related hair loss."

Do senescent cells contribute to specific skin concerns?

There is growing evidence linking zombie cells to several skin conditions, like hyperpigmentation and wound healing. "Because they promote chronic inflammation," says Stock. "They can also worsen existing skin conditions. What’s important to understand is that senescence isn’t just a sign of ageing, it actively drives inflammation which is the underlying cause of everything you see on your skin."

How do we treat zombie cells? Can senescence be reversed?

"At the moment, we cannot reliably reverse cellular senescence in human skin," says Dr Phillips. "Most of the evidence comes from laboratory and early-stage research rather than large clinical trials in people."

The most routine and recognised way of dealing with zombie cells is prevention and load reduction. This can be done by changing lifestyle habits—getting better sleep, exercising more—to decrease inflammation. Skincare plays a key role, too. Shotter explains that "daily high-protection sunscreen is the biggest anti-senescence move for skin because UV is a top trigger". She also recommends using retinoids for collagen signalling support and skin renewal, as well as barrier-boosting skincare. Phillips recommends using antioxidants, such as vitamin C, to help reduce oxidative stress. He also says that in clinic, treatments involving certain energy-based devices, like lasers, help to stimulate collagen production, support healthier cell turnover and reduce inflammation. This will help to "counteract some of the visible effects associated with senescent cell accumulation".

When it comes to our scalps, Dr Patel says that hair loss is rarely caused by a single thing—genetics and hormones remain the leading contributors. However, it isn't that simple. "Inflammation around the follicle, poor scalp health, oxidative stress, nutritional deficiencies, hormonal shifts, chronic stress and the natural ageing process all influence how well hair grows and how long it stays in its growth phase. The most effective approach is therefore multifactorial: nurturing a healthy scalp environment, calming inflammation where possible, supporting the body with the right nutrients, and intervening early—before follicles become significantly miniaturised and harder to recover."

According to Shotter, there are two other strategies for the treatment of zombie cells: senomorphics and senolytics. "Senomorphics calm the SASP without killing the cell, she says "These aim to reduce the inflammatory secretions and downstream damage. In skincare, lots of products claim this, but high-quality human clinical proof varies widely by ingredient. Senolytics remove senescent cells. These drugs selectively push senescent cells to die. This is an active medical research area and is mostly systemic. It’s not routine in skincare yet."

How important is senescence research in today's skincare development?

According to Shotter and Stock, we are in the early stages of a very exciting time in skincare, with Shotter calling it a "key area in skin longevity research".

Stock goes on to say that senescence research is transforming our approach to anti-ageing: "Instead of just treating wrinkles or pigmentation, the focus is on the root causes of ageing and cellular health. By targeting senescent cells, reducing their harmful signals, and protecting healthy neighbours, scientists are guiding the development of more effective, biology-driven skincare."

It may sound like just another beauty buzzword, but ‘inflammaging’ has been quietly reshaping how scientists understand ageing for over two decades. First coined in 2000 by longevity scientist Claudio Franceschi, the term describes the chronic, low-grade inflammation that builds within the body over time—often without obvious symptoms—and is now recognised as a key driver behind many age-related diseases.

More recently, those same principles have been applied to the skin. Dermatologists now view inflammation not just as something that flares during breakouts or irritation, but as a constant, underlying process that can slowly erode collagen, disrupt the barrier and accelerate visible ageing. From pigmentation and sensitivity to loss of firmness and fine lines, inflammaging is increasingly seen as the quiet force at work beneath the surface.

So what does it actually mean for our skin—and how much control do we really have over it? We asked leading dermatologists to explain.

What is inflammaging—and is it really behind how our skin ages?

Inflammation isn’t the sole cause of ageing skin, but it plays a key role. As consultant dermatologist Dr Aiza Jamil explains, “Skin ageing can generally be divided into two categories; Intrinsic ageing (genetic, hormonal, chronological) and extrinsic ageing (UV, pollution, lifestyle). Inflammation doesn’t replace these key ageing factors, but rather amplifies and links them. It amplifies the factors already playing a part in skin ageing, which include DNA damage, oxidative stress, loss of stem cell function, and cellular senescence.”

Consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto agrees that inflammaging is one piece of a much bigger biological picture. “Inflammaging, which is essentially chronic, low-grade inflammation, is arguably a piece of the puzzle when it comes to visible ageing, but it isn't the only piece. You have intrinsic ageing, the inevitable way in which your skin will age due to genetics, and while we would naturally age slowly over decades, inflammation from UV, stress and lifestyle can that process into overdrive.”

What does inflammaging actually do to the skin?

At a cellular level, inflammation is the skin’s immune system switching into defence mode—but when that response never fully turns off, damage accumulates slowly but surely.

Dr Jamil explains: “At a cellular level, skin inflammation is an immune response to injury or pathogens, with the activation of resident cells (keratinocytes, mast cells). This leads to the chronic release of cytokines (IL-1, IL-6, TNF-α), prostaglandins, matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and reactive oxygen species (ROS), which act like stress signals, causing damage to collagen, elastin, pigmentation and skin barrier health over time.”

Those stress signals also change how skin cells behave. “The key cells include keratinocytes, which are known as the surface skin cells. Instead of focusing on barrier repair, they send distress messages, so aren’t focused on barrier repair during this time. Then there are fibroblasts (the ‘support builders’ that make collagen and elastin), which shift to defending when inflammation is present, meaning they make less collagen during this time. Blood vessel cells also allow more immune activity, keeping the area on alert, which can cause problems with barrier function and pigmentation over time.”

Dr Mahto frames it as a constant state of microscopic wear and tear. “Think of acute inflammation (like a cut healing) as a helpful emergency response. The problem arises when this becomes chronic—a low-level, constant hum of irritation that never switches off. When the skin is in this state, it behaves like it is under constant attack.

“To allow immune cells to move around and fight these perceived threats, the skin releases specific enzymes that break down tissue. Unfortunately, these enzymes don't distinguish between 'bad' tissue and your healthy collagen and elastin. Over time, they simply eat away at your skin's structural support, leading to sagging and wrinkles. It also triggers your pigment cells (which are highly sensitive to stress) to overproduce melanin as a form of self-defence, resulting in uneven tone and sun spots.”

How modern life is inflaming our skin

While ageing itself is inevitable, many of today’s environmental and lifestyle factors are quietly accelerating inflammatory damage. “The biggest contributors to skin inflammation are: UV radiation, which is by far the most damaging,” says Dr Jamil. “It can cause direct DNA damage and can trigger inflammatory responses even without visible sunburn, so it’s important to always wear a broad-spectrum SPF. Pollution also induces oxidative stress and activates aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR), which can cause skin inflammation.”

But it doesn’t stop there. “Sleep and stress are daily disruptors to our skin health, as at high levels, or chronic levels, they can impair our barrier repair and alter immune signalling to the skin, which can enhance inflammaging.

Dr Mahto is clear on the biggest offenders: “UV Radiation remains the number one driver. It creates immediate oxidative stress. Pollution is the other big one, especially for those who live in cities.”

Can you have inflamed skin if you’re otherwise healthy?

Inflammation in the skin doesn’t always mirror what’s happening inside the body. “Skin inflammation is not always systemic,’ explains Dr Jamil. “Someone can be healthy, fit and have normal inflammatory blood markers on the outside, but still have low-grade inflammation. This is due to the skin having its own immune and neuroendocrine system, as well as local triggers such as barrier damage, topical irritants and UV damage, which can cause inflammation independently.”

Dr Mahto puts it into perspective: “You can be a marathon runner with a perfect diet, but if you run without sunscreen, your facial skin is undergoing intense inflammatory damage that your internal organs are not. You can have ‘inflamed skin’ on a healthy body simply due to external aggressors like UV and skincare misuse.”

Can skincare slow down inflammaging?

Topical skincare can play a meaningful role—but according to the experts, it has its limits. “Generally, topical skincare works best when inflammation is quite low-grade or mild to moderate, used preventatively and consistently, and your barrier function is not already damaged,” explains Dr Jamil. “Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen and skincare ingredients that help with inflammation include niacinamide, vitamin C, retinoids (slowly), azelaic acid, and ceramides.”

Dr Mahto agrees that ingredient choice is crucial. “Topical skincare is very effective if chosen correctly. Antioxidants (vitamin C, ferulic acid, resveratrol): These are your primary fire extinguishers. They neutralise the free radicals that trigger the inflammatory cascade. While retinoids can be irritating initially for some, in the long-term they thicken the skin and regulate cell function, making the skin more resilient to stress. Azelaic acid is excellent for reducing inflammatory signalling in pigment cells and blood vessels.”

What about injectables and in-clinic treatments?

In-clinic treatments can also influence inflammation in the skin—for better or worse. “Botox indirectly reduces inflammatory signaling due to less muscle contraction which can lower cytokine release,” says Dr Jamil. “Dermal fillers can help with short-term inflammation with well-placed fillers as they can improve fibroblast function. However, be careful as poor technique or overfilling can increase inflammation and make it worse.

Dr Mahto highlights one treatment as particularly useful: “Polynucleotides are explicitly anti-inflammatory. They work by down-regulating inflammatory signals and up-regulating repair. This is why I love them for ‘inflammaged’ skin (like rosacea or sun damage)—they treat the biology, not just the symptom. No other injectables affect inflammation, despite what some marketing claims may make.”

If you wake up on Christmas morning with a face that’s looking a little puffier, duller and sits a little heavier in the mirror, it could be the lack of sleep, or maybe the lack of daylight. But if your skin seems especially congested, flushed or tired, there’s a more obvious culprit: alcohol.

Festive drinking has a habit of creeping up on us. You pour another glass without thinking, meet friends for a cocktail that turns into two, or make a few too many toasts at dinner. While the effects might feel fleeting, your skin experiences alcohol as a form of stress—dehydrating, inflammatory and disruptive at both a surface and cellular level. The result can be redness that lasts far beyond the hangover, fine lines that feel suddenly more obvious, and breakouts that arrive seemingly overnight.

Below, consultant dermatologists unpack exactly what alcohol does to the skin—from next-day puffiness to long-term ageing—and how to limit the fallout without skipping the celebrations altogether.

How does alcohol affect the skin?

In the short term, alcohol shows up fast—and on your face. “Many people notice flushing because alcohol causes temporary dilation of the blood vessels,” explains Consultant Dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. Drink regularly, and that dilation can become more permanent, leading to background redness and visible thread veins.

Alcohol is also deeply dehydrating. It disrupts the skin’s ability to hold onto water, leaving it “dull, dry and less elastic,” which makes fine lines more noticeable. Then there’s inflammation. As alcohol is metabolised, it creates by-products that trigger oxidative stress—a big reason it worsens acne and rosacea. For those with reactive skin, “even small amounts can be enough to trigger symptoms.”

Over time, the picture doesn't get better. Dr Ophelia Veraitch points to “chronic dullness and poor skin texture” from ongoing barrier damage, alongside “accelerated ageing” due to increased collagen breakdown. In short: dehydration, inflammation and repeated vascular stress are taking their toll.

The link between alcohol, dehydration and dull skin

Alcohol is a diuretic—meaning you lose more fluid than you take in. That internal dehydration quickly shows on the skin, which can feel tight, rough and less supple. According to Dr Phillips, alcohol also weakens the skin barrier, allowing moisture to escape more easily, which leads to dullness and uneven texture.

Dr Veraitch notes that alcohol depletes “water, electrolytes and nutrients,” while its metabolites increase oxidative stress—compounding dryness, roughness and fine lines.

How alcohol accelerates skin ageing

Alcohol accelerates skin ageing through several overlapping pathways. Alcohol dehydrates skin, fuels inflammation and generates free radicals that damage collagen and elastin. Dr Phillips also flags lifestyle knock-ons: poor sleep disrupts overnight repair, while sugar-heavy drinks drive glycation—a process that stiffens collagen and accelerates ageing.

Dr Veraitch breaks it down bluntly: “chronic dehydration, oxidative stress, collagen degradation and glycation” all contribute to laxity, fine lines and uneven tone.

Why alcohol causes flushing and triggers rosacea flare-ups

Facial flushing after drinking isn’t just a surface reaction—it’s rooted in how the body processes alcohol. “When we metabolise alcohol it is converted into acetaldehyde,” explains Dr Phillips. Most people clear this efficiently, but those with reduced activity of the enzyme ALDH2 break it down more slowly, allowing acetaldehyde to accumulate and dilate blood vessels in the skin. The result is that familiar red flush, which can feel hot, tight or uncomfortable.

Alcohol also interferes with histamine. Acetaldehyde can trigger its release, while alcohol slows histamine breakdown, amplifying redness, warmth and itching—sometimes after just a small amount. Alcohol’s own vasodilatory effect lowers the threshold for flushing further, particularly in sensitive or reactive skin types.

For people with rosacea, these mechanisms stack up. “Alcohol caused vasodilation (i.e. blood vessels become wider) especially on the face,” says Dr Veraitch, adding that alcohol is “a big trigger for patients with rosacea.” Over time, repeated vessel dilation can become more permanent, contributing to persistent redness and visible thread veins.

How different types of alcohol affect the skin

Unfortunately, alcohol itself is the main issue—but the specifics can make a difference. “Different types of alcohol can affect the skin in slightly different ways, but the core issue is still the alcohol itself,” says Dr Phillips. Drinks high in sugar, such as cocktails and alcopops, are particularly problematic. “These can worsen inflammation and contribute to glycation, a process that weakens collagen and accelerates visible ageing,” he explains, making them more likely to trigger breakouts in acne-prone skin.

Red wine is another common trigger. “Wine, particularly red wine, contains histamines and sulfites, which can provoke flushing, redness or itch in those who are sensitive,” says Dr Phillips, noting that this is especially relevant for people with rosacea. Sulphites in white wine and champagne can have a similar effect, aggravating redness and sensitivity.

Beer, despite containing small amounts of B vitamins, offers little in return. “These are not present in quantities that meaningfully benefit the skin, and the alcohol content still has dehydrating and inflammatory effects,” Dr Phillips adds. Spirits, while still dehydrating, tend to cause fewer flare-ups simply because they contain fewer additives. As Dr Veraitch says, they are “often the ‘cleanest’ option for those prone to inflammatory skin conditions.”

Ways to minimise skin damage before, during and after drinking

Hydration is non-negotiable. “It’s important to stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water in between alcoholic drinks,” says Dr Phillips, who also advises eating before or while drinking to slow alcohol absorption and reduce its inflammatory impact. Avoiding high-sugar mixers can also help, particularly if you are prone to acne or reactive skin.

Once you get home, barrier support is key. “Using a hydrating serum or a moisturiser rich in ceramides before bed can help limit overnight moisture loss,” Dr Phillips explains. The following day, Dr Veraitch recommends keeping things gentle and reparative. “Apply a hydrating serum or cream with antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as niacinamide,” she says, alongside thorough rehydration and good sleep, which, as ever, does much of the recovery work on its own.

The biggest misconceptions about alcohol and skin health

That red wine is “good for you” because of antioxidants—it isn’t. According to the experts, inflammatory and dehydrating effects outweigh any benefit. Another myth? That only heavy drinking affects skin. As Dr Phillips points out, even small amounts can trigger redness or flare-ups in sensitive skin.

And no, sadly, skincare can’t cancel it out. As Dr Veraitch says, good products help, but they “can’t counteract the damage done by alcohol at a cellular level.” Moderation is the most important thing.

So no, you don’t need to swear off champagne forever. But if your skin feels like it’s sending you a quiet message after every festive season, it’s probably worth listening. A little moderation, a lot of water and some strategic skincare won’t erase the effects entirely—but they will make January’s reflection feel far more forgiving.

If you’ve ever struggled with your skin, you’ll understand the urge of wanting to communicate with it—to understand what’s causing breakouts, and stimulate the production of collagen and elastin, post 25. Luckily, the field of regenerative aesthetics has advanced so much in recent years that we’ve found a way to do exactly that, via exosomes.

They are best described as tiny communication bubbles that our cells naturally release, akin to emails or text messages, award-winning cosmetic doctor Tony Kaliya of the Neu Clinic, tells me. “Exosomes carry messages, including growth factors, proteins and signals, that tell neighbouring cells how to repair, regenerate and behave. In skincare, we use them to encourage the skin to function in a healthier, more youthful way.” In essence, since they work at a very fundamental biological level—cell-to-cell communication—harnessing them dramatically ups the ante of what we can do for the health (and appearance) of our skin.

This goes some way to explaining why it’s taken us so long to get to this point. “Exosomes are biologically complex and isolating them safely and consistently is technically challenging,” explains Dr Kaliya. “It’s only in recent years that we’ve had the technology, regulation and manufacturing quality to produce reliable, stable, cosmetic-grade exosomes suitable for clinic use.”

And the benefits are myriad. Not only can they stimulate collagen and elastin production, but exosomes can also accelerate the healing process of damaged tissue, making them very useful post-aesthetic procedures.

As well as that, they can reduce post-inflammatory pigmentation, scarring, aid with hair loss, and treat ageing. As Dr Kaliya continues: “Stem cells are the skin’s master repair cells—they’re responsible for regeneration. As we age, our activity slows. Exosomes effectively ‘coach’ these cells back into action, encouraging them to create fresh collagen and elastin and improving the skin’s resilience. Healthy stem cell activity is the foundation of radiant, youthful-looking skin.”

Nadia Aminian, celebrity facialist and senior aesthetician at the TakTouk Clinic, adds that they are uniquely placed to promise many of the benefits of stem-cell therapies, but without the risk, as there’s no cell division. “Most natural molecules can struggle to penetrate dense tissue, exosomes, however, can cross these barriers more easily as they are small, strong and welcomed by the body. They are also easier to store in a clinic environment [usually in very cold freezers or refrigerators] and can be used for numerous concerns and skin conditions, with extremely low downtime.”

So, how are we able to use exosomes today? First popularised in South Korea, they are now becoming commonplace in clinics across the West. However, the way exosome therapy is administered varies depending on your location, and certain methods remain controversial—and illegal.

For skincare, exosomes are primarily sourced from humans, plants (including roses and pomegranates), or are animal-derived and known as "purasomes".

Cosmetic use of human-derived exosomes is banned in the UK due to concerns around safety, disease transmission and human rights abuses. And regarding administration, this is only permitted topically, often during or after treatments that create microchannels in the skin, like microneedling, laser or radiofrequency. Elsewhere, including in the USA, it is routinely performed as an injectable treatment; however, such practitioners are operating outside of FDA approval, as the Food and Drug Administration has not approved any exosome products for consumers.

While it’s currently illegal to inject any form of exosomes in the UK, practitioners like Dr Kaliya predict that it will one day become a “major” development in regenerative aesthetics. “They could deliver more targeted and powerful results, but we need clear regulation and high safety standards before that becomes a reality.”

Still, experts stress that topical use of exosomes is effective. In particular, applying exosomes to skin that has just been damaged via a microneedling or laser device makes the skin incredibly receptive to its benefits. “The product gets to the cells directly without the risk of some product being lost or evaporated on the surface,” explains Aminian.

At the TakTouk clinic in Knightsbridge, they use a combination of purasomes—that is, bovine colostrum (the first milk produced by cows after giving birth), as it most resembles human cell components. However, purasomes are often mixed with plant-derived seed stem cells from fruit, including pomegranates. The clinic also uses e50, fish exosomes, which are chosen to ensure low levels of free radicals and impurities; however, all of the above are commonly selected to minimise the risk of disease transmission, which is of most concern when it comes to human-derived exosomes.

Surgical doctor, Miriam Adebibe, solely uses purasomes at her three East London clinics. She explains that their nutrient-rich combination of natural growth factors and bioactive molecules leads to unparalleled cellular communication and repair.

"Purasomes are created from bovine colostrum and deliver not only twenty billion exosomes per treatment but also twenty growth factors, cytokines, peptides, and bioactive molecules,” she explains. “This broad spectrum of active ingredients enhances skin and hair repair more comprehensively than exosomes alone. They are especially well-suited for individuals with multiple concerns such as pigmentation, inflammation, acne flare-ups, texture changes, tired or ageing skin, or hair thinning. Because they contain a larger variety of active molecules than exosomes alone, they are often the preferred option for people who want stronger all-around results or those seeking a premium treatment for both skin and scalp health."

But no matter what form of exosome therapy you choose, it's important to make sure you're a suitable candidate. While they are generally very well tolerated, experts say you should avoid treatments if you have active infections, open lesions or if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. As a general rule, it’s encouraged to have three to six sessions spaced two to four weeks apart for skin, and six to eight sessions spaced four weeks apart for hair. It is not generally recommended for people under 25, as collagen doesn’t usually start breaking down before this age.

But exosome therapy is not the only regenerative skin treatment on the market— bio-stimulating procedures like polynucleotides—which are derived from fish DNA—offer similar results. Here, they are injected into the skin to activate fibroblast cells, by and by boosting collagen and elastin production. But there are differences, states Dr Kaliya. “Think of polynucleotides as nourishment and exosomes as direction. They’re complementary, but exosomes have a broader regenerative scope, which is why they’re generating such excitement.”

We are repeatedly told that the key to a successful skincare routine is using products that support our skin type. From the best night creams for dry skin to the serums that won't exacerbate oily skin, our regimens are fine-tuned to work with, not against, our skin. But does it end there? Should we be considering our phototype in our decisions, too?

What is a phototype?

If you're unfamiliar with phototypes, this is the classification given to how your skin reacts to UV exposure, determined by The Fitzpatrick Scale. Developed in 1975 by Dermatologist Thomas Fitzpatrick, it's a tool used in medical aesthetics and dermatology "to assess sun sensitivity and predict skin's responses to treatments," says Dr Dara Suite, medical director and aesthetic doctor at The Well. The original purpose of the scale was to assess how a person would burn or tan after the skin was exposed to UV light, and it was soon adopted by those in the aesthetics business, as it "guides treatment protocols for everything from laser therapy to chemical peels, ensuring safe and effective outcomes for each individual," says Dr Suite.

Each phototype has its own characteristics when it comes to pigmentation, sun sensitivity and melanin production. Taking these into consideration when having an aesthetic procedure is crucial; however, it can also influence the skincare choices that we make. By choosing appropriate skincare for your phototype, you can tailor your skincare routine to work harder.

How to identify your phototype?

There are six phototypes in The Fitzpatrick Scale. To determine your phototype, look at natural skin colour (the inner arm is a good place to see true baseline colour), eye colour, hair colour and how your skin reacts to the sun—does it burn or does it tan?

• Type I: Pale skin, often with freckles, red/blonde hair, blue, grey or light green eyes, always burns, never tans
• Type II: Fair skin, blonde/light brown hair, blue, green or hazel eyes, usually burns, tans minimally
• Type III: Medium skin tone, hazel or light brown eyes, sometimes burns, gradually tans
• Type IV: Olive/light brown skin, brown eyes, rarely burns, tans easily
• Type V: Brown skin, brown eyes, very rarely burns, tans darkly
• Type VI: Dark brown/black skin, brown eyes, never burns, deeply pigmented

Whilst the Fitzpatrick Scale is still widely used as a reference point within the industry, it has been criticised for its Eurocentric bias. As a result, other classifications have been developed. The Monk Skin Tone Scale was created in 2022 and includes 10 skin tones, as opposed to Fitzpatrick's six. Dr Suite is pleased about this development. It "represents an important evolution in skin classification, offering more nuanced representation across darker skin tones," she says. "Any classification system that helps us provide more personalised, culturally sensitive care is valuable." However, she pointed out that clinical adoption requires extensive validation and training, so skin experts will continue using established protocols whilst closely monitoring these advances within skin tone classification.

Adjusting your skincare regime accordingly

Much like we pick and choose our products and ingredients based on our skin type, the same can be said for our phototypes.

For phototypes I and II, Dr Suite advises SPF50+ every day, easing in actives slowly, and prioritising barrier repair. Think hydrating, soothing ingredients—vitamin E is your friend here.

Phototypes III and IV should also commit to daily broad-spectrum SPF, incorporate vitamin C, and tackle pigmentation early on. Sun protection remains non-negotiable.

For phototypes V and VI, the focus shifts to hyperpigmentation prevention. Darker skin tones have larger and hyperactive melanocytes, so any trauma caused to the skin could cause an excess in melanin production and, as a result, hyperpigmentation. Antioxidants are essential, alongside gentle exfoliation. Dr Suite stresses that SPF is still a must: “UV damage still occurs, just differently than burning.”

Noelly Michoux, CEO of 4.5.6. Skina brand that caters to melanin-rich skin, adds that there are functional and physiological differences to darker skin tones that come into play, too. "The Stratum Corneum (the outer layer of skin) is denser for Fitzpatrick phototypes IV, V and VI (aka darker skin tones)," she says. "This density provides a natural bonus with more collagen and elastin, but makes nourishing its deeper layers challenging. When skin is dehydrated, it loses its natural antioxidant powers, and the increase in oxidative stress can manifest as hyperpigmentation (as opposed to wrinkles or sagging skin, more common in phototypes I, II, and III)." With greater inflammatory responses, these skin tones benefit from ingredients that calm melanin production, brighten, and even tone.

"Skin with higher melanin content thrives in sun and humidity,” Michoux explains. “But colder weather can disrupt the barrier, leaving it more sensitive." Phototypes IV, V and VI are more prone to dryness, dehydration and transepidermal water loss, so nourishing products that aid barrier repair become essential in the winter months. However, she says that those higher phototypes are also more likely to produce more sebum as a defence mechanism against dehydration. "The unfortunate outcome? Dry, flaky skin with a layer of oil on top, potentially clogging pores and leading to acne." It's important to address hydration and nourishment, whilst also balancing and regulating sebum.

We all know the effect a bad skin day can have on our mood. You wake up to a hormonal breakout on the first day of a new job and your confidence starts to slip. You get a rosacea flare-up on your wedding weekend and suddenly it’s all you can think about. But what if it wasn’t just the appearance of your skin messing with your head? What if your skin itself—and the bacteria living on it—were directly influencing the chemicals in your brain?

New, groundbreaking research suggests it might be doing exactly that. The paper, “Microbiome Composition and Psychological Wellbeing”, published in the British Journal of Dermatology, found that the skin microbiome and psychological wellbeing may be interconnected in what scientists are now calling the skin-brain axis—the idea that the bacteria living on your skin could be shaping how stressed, calm, or even happy you feel.

It’s the latest in a slew of microbiome breakthroughs. First came the gut–brain axis, proving your microbiome could influence mood, immunity, and even cognition. Then came the gut–skin axis, mapping how the gut microbiome affects the complexion and overall skin health. Now, as shown in the new paper, scientists at the University of Liverpool have found a potential link between a common skin bacterium, Cutibacterium, and psychological wellbeing—specifically stress levels—marking the first time any such link has been identified. They found that higher levels of this bacterium on the face were linked to lower stress, while higher levels in the underarm (axilla) correlated with both reduced stress and better mood.

“Scientists think this could happen through several routes,” explains Dr Jenna Macciochi, an immunologist specialising in the intersection of nutrition and lifestyle with the immune system. “Some skin bacteria release molecules that calm inflammation and strengthen the skin barrier, which may reduce stress-related immune activity.

“It could also be neuroendocrine signalling,” she continues. “The skin can make mood-influencing chemicals like substance P or cortisol in response to microbes, triggering sensations—such as itch, pain, or comfort—that feed back to the brain. It could also be through microbial metabolites, where certain microbes convert skin oils into compounds that interact with nerves or immune cells, possibly affecting brain chemistry.”

The significance of these findings could be game-changing, catapulting skincare into the realms of psychological therapy as well as pure aesthetics. Forget just treating breakouts or dryness: future products could, in theory, help support your stress resilience or even boost your mood—simply by nurturing the right microbes on your skin.

It’s not the first time psychodermatology—the study of how skin and mind influence one another—has been heralded as a holistic treatment. But this is the first time there’s quantifiable scientific evidence linking specific skin bacteria to psychological wellbeing. Dr Marie Drago, pharmacist, microbiome expert and founder of Gallinée, agrees the findings mark a milestone. “It’s very interesting. Of course, correlation is not causation—scientists’ favourite disclaimer—but it really opens the field for new studies,” she says.

One reason the research is so exciting, she adds, is that it suggests skin bacteria may influence mood by producing short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs)—bioactive molecules already known to play a major role in gut health. “What’s very interesting in this article is that it posits the bacteria are helping by producing short-chain fatty acids. You’re going to hear a lot about these molecules in the future, both in nutrition and in skincare. Lactic acid is one, and it’s already used in skincare (and in every single Gallinée product), but if it also makes you happier, it needs to be researched, and used, more.” In other words, the same molecules that brighten your skin might one day help brighten your mood.

This discovery also paves the way for a new wave of neurocosmetic formulas that focus, very precisely, on cultivating the growth of beneficial bacteria. Still, it’s easy to get carried away. Considerable research is needed to establish the exact mechanism of the skin-brain axis. “The idea is promising, particularly for ingredients that strengthen the skin barrier or encourage the growth of beneficial microbes,” says Dr Macciochi. “Some newer formulas use prebiotics or postbiotics backed by credible research showing links to positive emotional states. But the hype is currently running ahead of the hard evidence. While early findings are exciting, large-scale clinical trials are still rare. For now, neurocosmetics remain an emerging field full of potential, but still in need of robust science to separate genuine breakthroughs from marketing spin.”

But as Dr Drago points out, proving these benefits won’t be easy. “The first step is to get good test protocols. Measuring wellbeing results from applying products to skin is difficult to do well, and there’s often a lot of marketing noise. But I’m optimistic—we’re seeing enormous progress, which means that soon we might get products based on good science that can genuinely support wellbeing.”

She also predicts a more holistic, inside–out approach. “Because you can get effects from beauty products, proven benefits from supplements, and even neuro effects from fragrance, it makes sense to combine all three. One of our latest launches, for example, was a calming serum paired with a calm and microbiome supplement, designed to target the gut–brain–skin axis and help reduce stress.”

There are, however, key takeaways that can be implemented immediately. “Eating more fibre, fermented foods, or pre- and probiotics can help nurture the gut microbiome,” says Dr Macciochi. “This, in turn, may indirectly benefit the skin, improving its barrier function and reducing inflammation—though direct effects of diet on the skin microbiome remain under-researched.”

As for topical solutions? “Evidence shows that skincare approaches like prebiotic creams, targeted probiotics, and gentle cleansing may quickly and directly shift the skin’s microbial balance. These may be especially useful for restoring beneficial bacteria, such as Cutibacterium, that help keep skin healthy.”

Gallinée uses a combination of pre-, pro- and post-biotics to care for the unique combinations of bacteria on different parts of your body. But Dr Drago stresses that the real beauty lies in supporting the skin’s own resident microbes. “We use tyndalized bacteria—very gently inactivated by heat—that are still recognised by the skin and able to stimulate the microbiome. This way we ensure total security and control of the product. But honestly, I’m more interested in supporting your own bacteria—the ones born and raised on your skin—by supercharging them with prebiotics.”

It’s early days, but the implications are huge. If the skin-brain axis proves as influential as the gut–brain axis, the next generation of skincare could go far beyond soothing dryness or preventing breakouts. We could be looking at topical formulas designed not just to transform how skin looks, but to transform how people feel. And that cements skincare firmly at the intersection of science, wellbeing, and self-care.

Like many beauty obsessives, I have started overhauling my skincare regimen as we begin the warmer months. There are things that we instinctively do, like swapping out heavier moisturisers for more gel-like formulas, but we often stop there. Even I have fallen into this rut, as someone who tests products for a living—it’s easier, and cheaper to rely on tried and tested items. Still, I kept hearing rumblings about 'circadian beauty' in the industry, and well, it's my job to investigate.

"Circadian beauty is the name given to working with our skin’s natural circadian rhythm, which is your body’s internal clock,” dermo-pharmacist and Lixirskin founder Dr Colette Haydon tells me. Dr Ellie Rashid, CeraVe’s consultant dermatologist, adds: “It’s quite a buzzy term, but the logic of adapting skincare to the skin’s natural cycles makes sense, and it’s usually how we recommend routines.”

On the surface, it seems pretty self-explanatory: we have different needs throughout the day—protection during daylight hours, and then in the evening, it feels intuitive to focus on recovery. "It's best to work with our circadian rhythm and not fight against it to achieve the best skin,” Dr Haydon confirms. “Our cells have limited energy that can quickly be depleted, and so they will prioritise what job to do.”

Looking at my own, rather unwieldy routine, I found that while I wasn’t making many circadian faux pas, I wasn’t necessarily making the most of my products by using them at the optimal times to boost their efficacy. So, over the next month, I set out to nail my regimen as dictated by the natural world order. I began by tackling the part of the day I dread the most: the morning.

What products should we use in the AM, according to circadian beauty?

As Dr Haydon explained above, skin cells have a certain level of energy during the day, and it’s not limitless. This energy is provided by a molecule called Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP). "It is the fuel of cells, and when it’s gone, it’s gone,” she tells me. “To manage this energy, the skin has priorities at different times of the day."

During daylight hours, the skin wants to stay hydrated and protected from the sun, and against external and environmental stressors like UV radiation and pollution, and free radicals. The latter is a particular concern, says Dr Rashid: “They are unstable molecules that form as a by-product of the body’s energy production. They can also be triggered by external factors like pollution, UV exposure, smoking and stress. These molecules seek balance by stealing electrons from healthy cells, which can lead to the ageing of the skin."

To counterbalance this, she recommends using an antioxidant product in the morning, and her favourites include vitamin C, resveratrol, ferulic acid, niacinamide and green tea.

Then you need to look at hydration and strengthening the skin barrier. The dermatologist recommends moisturisers that include ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerin and squalene.

You guessed it, the last step of any good morning skincare routine is sunscreen. “Beyond causing sunburn, excessive sun exposure can lead to premature skin ageing and increase the risk of skin cancers,” says Dr Rashid. While sun exposure has positive effects, such as boosting serotonin levels and regulating the circadian rhythm, it is important to balance this with precautions against overexposure.”

What products should we use in the PM, according to circadian beauty?

In the evening, our cells are focused on repair and regeneration, as well as the production of collagen and elastin. Retinoids, including tretinoin, retinol and retinaldehyde, are the most effective skincare ingredients to boost collagen production, even out skin tone and improve skin cell turnover, which slows down as we age Dr Rashid explains, saying that we should incorporate a form of retinoid into our routine in the evenings.

However, these are ingredients that break down when exposed to UV light, she adds, making them less effective if applied during the day. “They can also increase the skin’s sensitivity to the sun, which is why they are best used at night, followed by sunscreen the next morning.”

Peptides are another hero ingredient that thrives at night. They are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks for proteins such as collagen and elastin—these help maintain the skin’s structure and integrity.

Peptides interact with the skin and lips by penetrating the top layer and acting like messengers to signal the fibroblast cell to boost collagen, repair damage, and enhance hydration, all of which improve the skin’s health and appearance.

Finally, if you want, Dr Rashid advises incorporating a niacinamide serum (vitamin B3) into your routine: “It soothes and strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness and sensitivity, and you can use it day or night.”

A beauty editor’s verdict

While the majority of my routine was coincidentally in line with the premise of circadian beauty, there were holes.

Namely, I’d stopped using vitamin C with L-ascorbic acid in the morning, which meant that I was lacking an effective antioxidant. Dr Rashid also flagged that I was over-exfoliating with acids, and crucially, was missing a retinoid—this was something that I had deliberately been avoiding as my skin is very sensitive to them. On the positive end, I had already incorporated peptides into my evening regimen, in the form of my beloved Tata Harper Crème Riche, and I never leave the house without applying SPF50+.

So, over the last month, I took heed and added in a vitamin C serum—SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic—as well as Byoma’s Sensitive Retinol Oil.

It may seem straightforward, but it’s a good reminder to take a long, hard look at your skincare regimen from time to time; a few simple swaps might just take your skin to the next level. Plus, if you’re spending money on pricey skincare, you want to get the most bang for your buck. As Dr Rashid concludes, “If you already use antioxidants, SPF in the morning, and retinoids and barrier-repairing ingredients at night, you’re following a circadian approach without the label. Every skincare routine I’ve ever recommended follows this, but I didn’t even know that it has a name!"

For my part, since I’ve made those small tweaks, my skin has been looking clear, glowy and is noticeably softer than it was before; a win-win with very little effort, I say.

I dread my period, and have continued to do so ever since it arrived, just days before my 13th birthday. This means I have had around 197 periods, and if I hit menopause at 51—the average age for women in the UK—I have another 267 to go. As they come, I’m pretty unlucky; I deal with crippling pain most months and premenstrual (PMS) symptoms that can affect my mental health. But now it appears I have something else to add to the list: the luteal phase, which social media says is making us “ugly” for up to two weeks of the month.

Type in “luteal phase” into TikTok, and you will find hundreds of videos. Many women jump between their faces at the follicular phase (beginning on the first day of menstruation, when women are thought to be their most attractive) to the luteal phase, where they point out perceived puffiness and swollen features. “If you’ve ever felt like you look pretty one day and then not as pretty the next, there’s a scientific reason behind that […] The way I just gave myself the ick,” one 20-something says, while another asserts: “I am not crazy, my nose gets bigger in my luteal phase.”

It’s compelling—literally on the face of it. My instant reaction when I watched these videos was relief. It gave name to a feeling of general unease I had about my appearance since I first started menstruating. Sure, there were the usual hormonal breakouts, but what bothered me most was how lacklustre my skin, hair and nails would become month after month. Then, on the flip side, seeing these videos was empowering; better the enemy you know, and all.

And so, over the next few weeks, I set out to speak to women’s doctors and dermatologists about the luteal phase, whether it has a tangible impact on our appearance, and crucially, how to deal with it.

What is the luteal phase?

First, let’s get the facts straight. The luteal phase begins right after ovulation and lasts around 12-14 days, ending with the beginning of your period. During this time, the body’s level of the hormone progesterone rises to support the thickening of the uterine lining in preparation for a potential pregnancy.

Does the luteal phase affect how you look?

All of these hormonal changes impact the body, and so it makes sense that it will have some effect on the way you look, Dr Maya Thosani, a double board-certified dermatologist, explains, adding that much of what we experience coincides with PMS symptoms. “This phase of the cycle is associated with bloating, acne, discomfort, and appetite changes. And understandably, these hormonal patterns also tend to affect how we feel when we look in the mirror, creating a divide between reality and perception,” she says.

Unfortunately, one of the main areas affected is the skin. Women have a higher chance of breakouts, likely around the cheeks, jawline and chin, due to increased oil production thanks to rising progesterone levels. Dr Thosani adds that during this time, the skin “may also be more sensitive and prone to redness. Some tend to retain fluid at this time and may have more puffiness, especially on their face and around their eyes.”

And what is all that business about noses growing? “The luteal phase causes hormonal fluctuations and rising oestrogen that can cause changes to the blood vessels in the nasal passages due to water retention and overall swelling. This can contribute to sinus symptoms and make some people feel like their nose is broader or their eyebrows are more pronounced,” Dr Thosani explains. However, she does add that this swelling, retention and bloating may affect the whole face and body, not just the nose.

How does the luteal phase affect hair and nails?

If you’ve ever noticed that your hair is greasier during this period, you’re not alone. Dr Somi Javaid, an obstetrician-gynecologist, explains that due to hormonal fluctuations, many women also experience changes in texture and oiliness in their hair, while others could experience more brittle hair or breakouts on the scalp.

Completing the triumvirate are nails. While Dr Javaid says that this varies widely, some women have reported that their nails feel weaker and more prone to breaking during the luteal phase.

While on the face of it, these changes may feel dramatic, it’s worth noting that we’ve lived with these symptoms to various degrees for years, well before TikTok decided that the luteal phase should be maligned. For my part, I’ve noticed that some months I just feel worse, and that’s perfectly fine. As Dr Thosani says, “It’s completely normal, and no, your luteal phase does not make you ugly! When these hormonal changes occur, they can sometimes distort what a woman sees in the mirror, causing her to judge harshly, and this self-criticism can be damaging and longer lasting than this phase, which is temporary.”

How to prepare for the luteal phase

While no one should be expected to mitigate the effects of a natural hormonal process, if you are negatively affected by your luteal phase, looking into how it can be managed could be helpful.

From a skin perspective, Dr Thosani says that you should anticipate needing to exfoliate more in the days leading up to your luteal phase. This will help combat clogged pores and the increased oiliness you may experience. She also recommends adding a calming product to your rotation, ideally including ingredients like niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, as they boost moisture and reduce sensitivity. Ensure you steer clear of hair removal methods during this time too: “Waxing, dermaplaning, threading and or hair cream removals will cause much more sensitivity and are more likely to create a breakout, especially on the chin and jawline area.”

In regard to hair and nails, it’s pretty self-explanatory. Wash your hair more frequently, opt for sulphate-free shampoos, and avoid heat. It’s also worthwhile to add a strengthening polish to your routine, and if you’re finding that your nails are extra dry and brittle, steer clear of gels and acrylics.

But ultimately, Dr Javaid emphasises that it’s important to focus on healthy habits no matter what phase of the cycle we’re in. “Promoting healthy skin, hair, and nails requires certain lifestyle choices. You must be eating adequate protein, a balanced diet of vitamins, minerals and healthy fats like Omega-3 fatty acids. It’s easier said than done, but we should also remain hydrated, adopt movement, limit stress, and sleep well.”

Dr Thosani also stresses the importance of understanding your cycle: “Keeping track of it can help women understand the truth about how these hormonal shifts explain their perceptions. This will also help them understand how to block out negativity and prevent them from spiralling into a shame cycle. We should also talk about this normal and natural part of our bodies. Attaching negative feelings can contribute to negative connotations, reframing this to celebrate that our bodies are working as they should can change the conversation.”

What happens after the luteal phase?

Luckily, there is some light at the end of the tunnel. Once you get your period out of the way, you are in the blessed follicular phase — where women report feeling at their most attractive.

“During the follicular phase, oestrogen levels continue to rise, peaking right before ovulation,” explains Dr Javaid. “This hormone can have positive effects on skin, hair and nails. Individuals may report shinier, stronger hair, the skin could feel more moisturised, and may appear smoother, softer and more youthful. Plus, oestrogen promotes collagen synthesis, which is essential for skin elasticity. You may also experience more robust nails that are less likely to break.”

Shop MC approved skincare for your period

One of my most important jobs as a beauty editor is to inform the masses of the harmful and truly damaging effects of UV rays on our skin. Every dermatologist, every doctor, every product formulator and every skin expert I have ever met (of which there have been thousands) has told me the same thing: not wearing sun cream with adequate SPF protection every single day will age and damage your skin at best and lead to skin cancer at worst.

I am all too aware of these risks, so I wear a high-factor SPF50 facial sunscreen every. single. day. Even today, when the weather is drab and we haven't seen sunshine in what feels like 84 years, my face is slathered in SPF50. And yet, just two months ago, like so many of us, I was lying out on my balcony, purposefully lounging in the sun. Why? Because something about having those rays hit my skin feels so damn good. But I also know that, when I'm sunbathing, my skin's exposure to UV rays and getting sunburnt is increasing my risk of developing skin cancer. So much so that, when I lie out in the sun, I spend most of the time analysing my moles—it's like I'm waiting for all my years of tanning to catch up with me.

And as we move into autumn/winter, this has got me thinking—am I, a beauty editor who prides herself on straight talk, some sort of sun cream virtue signaller? What good am I actually doing by applying one layer of sun cream to my face in the depths of winter, only to expose my body to extreme UV rays come summer? In my quest to lead by example and do the 'right' thing as a beauty editor, have I lost sight of the overall goal of keeping my skin healthy?

A few months ago I saw wellness fanatics on social media start talking about supposed 'dangers' of sun cream application. I was inundated with posts that claimed sun cream to be toxic and also insisted that unprotected sun exposure is critical for our every day health. While my fellow beauty editors and other medically trained colleagues raged, I actually found myself quite fascinated by the whole thing. In a world of health and beauty absolutism, I wondered: Is it possible that daily sun exposure can be both good and bad for us at the same time—and, if so, where the hell do we go from here?

I started on a mission to answer this question six months ago, with the intention of publishing my findings within a few weeks—but that was wishful thinking. Since I started my research, the story has become bigger and bigger and bigger. I have found myself confused, conflicted, infuriated at the lack of clean-cut answers and, ultimately, also enraged by the growing momentum these 'anti-SPF' movements are garnering. I have spent days reading papers and hours upon hours speaking to dermatologists, product formulators, brand founders and people who sit on both sides of the SPF fence. Here's what I have managed to conclude...

1. Excessive exposure to UV rays *does* increase risk of skin cancer

Let's start with what I believe to be the most important truth (and I use this word in a scientific sense in that it is something we can be as close to certain about, given the information we have)—it is widely accepted in scientific, medical and cosmetic circles that high levels of UV exposure and skin cancers are linked.

"UV radiation can damage skin cells," says consultant dermatologist and Founder of Self London skin clinic, Dr Anjali Mahto. And this damage can take on different forms. From an aesthetic position, it can lead to premature ageing in the form of wrinkles, age spots and loss of elasticity. But when UV exposure is particularly high, there is a more much more serious risk. "Prolonged and unprotected exposure increases the risk of skin cancers, including basal cell carcinoma, melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma," she adds.

And, actually, this concept isn't widely disputed. Leading figures on both sides of the sun cream fence agree that there appears to be a direct correlation between increased UV radiation and an increased risk of skin cancer. So, applying sun cream simply helps limit that risk by reducing the amount of UV radiation we are exposing our skin to—makes sense. "As consultant dermatologists our emphasis on daily high-factor sunscreen application is rooted in evidence-based recommendations aimed at protecting skin health. Studies consistently show that regular sunscreen use reduces the risk of skin cancers and helps maintain healthier skin over time. It’s a no brainer, which is why we tout its benefits so much," says Dr Mahto.

The debates on whether or not sun cream should be applied every single day in the UK largely come down to other nuances that exist—most notably on how much UV exposure is deemed 'excessive', particularly when the sky is overcast.

2. Despite increased SPF awareness, skin cancer rates are rising

This is something that we really shouldn't be ignoring—yes, skin cancer rates are on the up, despite the fact awareness around the need for sun cream protection has also increased exponentially. Cancer Research UK reports a 147% rise in skin cancer incidence rates in the UK since the early 1990s. So, what on earth is going on?

"The increase in diagnosis rates of skin cancer in the UK can be attributed to several factors," says Dr Mahto. "Firstly, despite better awareness of sun safety, many people continue to engage in sun-seeking behaviours, including use of tanning beds, therefore increasing their UV exposure." And this is something I can very much believe. Sure, I apply SPF religiously, but I also partake in the beauty editor cardinal sin of sunbathing on the hottest days of the year. My daily facial sunscreen application in the depths of winter is not a Get Out Of Jail Free card that I can play when I sit for hours in the sunshine while the UV index is off the charts. Rather, it has just proved a way to fool myself into thinking I'm doing all I can to protect myself against skin cancer, when really, I'm not.

Beyond that, though, there's another potential reason rates are up—and it's important. "Secondly, significant advancements in medical technology and heightened awareness have led to more frequent and earlier diagnoses. Previously, a lot of skin cancer may have gone undetected/untreated. I think it’s important to note here too that treatment success rates for skin cancer have improved significantly. Early detection plays a crucial role in this, as catching cancer in its early stages increases the chances of successful treatment," explains Dr Mahto.

3. Sun exposure is good for us

Now we get onto one of the key arguments used against the notion of daily sun cream application—while too much UV radiation is linked to skin cancer, UV radiation is also considered to be good for us in certain doses. It is, for me, one of the main reasons I enjoy sun bathing so much—although, mind you, I've never found that applying sun cream reduces this joy. "There are a few ways in which sun exposure has several proven benefits for our health. The one most people know about is that it’s a primary source of vitamin D—this is essential for bone health, immune function and mood regulation," reveals Dr Mahto.

And while in the UK we are often recommended to supplement vitamin D throughout winter, when access to sunlight is limited, the sun is widely considered to be the easiest-to-access and most effective source of vitamin D. "It can be challenging to achieve optimal levels through diet and supplements alone," says Dr Mahto. "It's well documented that sunlight is the most efficient natural source of vitamin D, as the skin synthesises it upon exposure to UVB rays."

It is also worth noting here that sunlight is also thought to have other benefits for us, including helping to regulate our circadian rhythms (helping with sleep health) and improving our moods through production of serotonin.

4. Scientific studies aren't the oracles of truth

When Professor Tim Spector posted his thoughts on a recent scientific study on the importance of vitamin D in immune-dependent cancer resistance, the wellness world went mad. His post read: "Vitamin D regulates cancer immunity via microbiome – another reason to stop using SPF 50 all year round which blocks our natural defences."

Naturally, this post caused a flurry of media headlines and sparked hot debate on social media between those who fervently believe in religious SPF application and sun cream sceptics. However, a co-author of this study, Professor Caetano Reis e Sousa, soon weighed in, calling Spector's post a 'blatant misrepresentation' of their work.

Dr Mahto also has her thoughts on the study: "In a nutshell, the Giampazolias mice study highlighted the role of vitamin D in immune-dependent cancer resistance, but extrapolating these findings to humans requires caution. Vitamin D is absolutely crucial for immune function and sunlight is a significant source. However, high-factor sunscreen does not completely block UV radiation—it does allow some vitamin D production. The wellness absolutists' stance on avoiding sunscreen may neglect the broader context of skin health and cancer prevention—balancing sun protection with vitamin D needs is key."

And this is something scientific papers don't tend to caveat (because they are carried out on the premise that those interpreting the paper understand the nuances)—sun cream does not act as a total sun block. In labs, extremely high-factor sun cream is often administered in a way that does not mirror real-life scenarios. Scientific experiments exist to help discover new information that might not have previously been known within a community of individuals whose job it is to interpret and digest the findings, using their expertise.

To really understand this, I spoke with cosmetic scientist and brand founder, Sam Farmer. "Science is an ever-moving subject. All it does is keep showing us what we don’t know. The minute people start thinking of science as binary is dangerous. We are always learning. We are always discovering," he says. "People only hear what they want to hear. You believe the scientific paper that you want to believe and dismiss the one that counters it—but they are both correct. This is very true in cosmetics."

What does this highlight? Essentially, that scientific studies are not final and should not be used to imply that any view is undebatable—one paper is just a thought, but it take hundreds to form an opinion. Anyone using scientific papers to push any narrative towards daily sun cream application being absolutely wrong or absolutely right is probably not someone to be taking advice from.

5. Toxic ingredients aren't all they appear

While we're on the topic of science and the quest for discovery, it's important to highlight that this also applies to safety in sun cream. Another key argument that is used against daily application of sun cream is that the safety of sunscreen formulas is up for debate. Three months ago, while I was in the midst of researching this story, I was sent a Reel that was garnering attention. Posted by a beauty brand who sell what they call 'non-toxic sun cream', was a Reel that showed the founder of this brand approaching supermarket shoppers in the sun cream aisle of a supermarket and using an app to show that widely available sun creams are 'toxic'.

It's needless to say the comments section kicked off. While medical experts slammed the post for spreading misinformation and being dangerous and irresponsible, supporters of the 'clean beauty' movement praised the brand's supposed 'honesty'. I addressed this post with Sam to get his thoughts on the rise of concerns around 'toxic' ingredients. "You see these things on social media because they get the shares—and it’s always the negative take on the argument. It’s boring to say that cosmetics are regulated—no one wants to hear that. But it's true, cosmetic safety is a well oiled machine," he says.

What he goes on to explain to me is truly eye-opening. "The confusion for the consumer comes down to lazy use of scientific terminology, such as toxin and toxic. Toxins are only created in nature. They are things like nettle stings, bee stings, snake venom, mushrooms etc. They are all over the place. Billions of years has led to animals and plants creating them to protect themselves against being attacked," he reveals. "However, when something is toxic, any given thing has simply reached a certain level where it can do you harm. Drinking six-litres of water in an hour might kill you, but having water in your shampoo won’t—it’s all about the dose."

The truth is, no ingredient can be deemed 'toxic' without context of its dosage. "All ingredients within cosmetic products must be safe, and ingredients are regularly reviewed by independent scientists to ensure that the latest scientific information is taken into account. The UK Cosmetics Regulation (UKCR) contains extensive annexes of banned and restricted substances," reveals Sam. "The safety assessment takes account of all the ingredients used in the cosmetic product, how the product will be used, by whom, where and how often."

And when it comes to the apps I mentioned earlier? Well, all is not as it seems. "Apps that claim certain ingredients to be harmful to our health often do not take into account how ingredients are used within the product and how we are exposed to them. The information only considers the hazard properties of chemicals, which means the effects they can have at very high levels, or if ingested rather than applied to the skin," explains Sam.

6. Sun cream regulation is ever-evolving

Just because regulation exists, doesn't mean it isn't subject to change. Commercial Director at Skin + Me, Alex Goddard, knows first hand what it is like to launch hardworking skincare (and a sun cream) in the UK market. "When we go through the formulation process, the main safety net for consumers is that we only formulate with ingredients that have been proven to be safe by European and UK regulators. There are very clear lists of ingredients, inclusion levels, required precautions and safety instructions around these materials that you have to adhere to," he reveals.

However, it is worth noting these lists are not set in stone forever—they do get tweaked. "If they do find a reason, either via complaints or new research that suggests the safety profile might have changed, then they will review the regulation. There are always tweaks and changes to regulation. Sun cream regulation is rigorous in terms of getting it onto the market, but the regulatory requirements stop there if you don’t make tweaks to the formulation," adds Alex.

This is the case with common filters such as oxybenzone. "It has raised some concerns due to its potential (and I use the word potential, here) hormone-disrupting effects. While some studies suggest potential risks, much more evidence is needed before we can put a blanket statement on oxybenzone being dangerous. At present, regulatory agencies, including the FDA and EU, have deemed it safe within specified limits," says Dr Mahto. "However, if consumers are concerned about oxybenzone there’s the option to choose alternative ingredients, such as zinc oxide or titanium dioxide."

In short? Regulation is strict and regulators use the best scientific evidence available to make cautious decisions on safety—if new research comes out that shows to be unflawed and genuine cause for concern, regulations are adapted.

My conclusion

Truthfully, I set out on this investigation in a bid to get some answers. Do we really need to apply SPF every single day, rain or shine? For starters, I can confirm that I absolutely, categorically must stop sunbathing in the summer—but I already knew that. My indecisiveness is more around whether or not I need to apply facial sunscreen every day, even in the winter.

Personally, I have come to the conclusion that, in my opinion (having looked at so, so much information), it's probably not doing me any harm to continue with daily application. But, truth be told, my main taking from this investigative journey is that protecting your skin with sun cream – in whatever form that sun cream comes in, providing it has been approved by regulators – when it needs it most is imperative.

My other key piece of advice? Always, always listen to the health authorities and question anything you see on social media with critical analysis. "I think that while debates around sunscreen can be complex and influenced by various interests, prioritising evidence-based practices and informed decision-making can guide us towards healthier sun habits. By emphasising education, critical thinking, and public awareness, we can navigate the nuances of sun protection effectively and promote optimal health outcomes for all," concludes Dr Mahto. And I think that sums everything up quite nicely, indeed.

Earlier this year I attended a sun care launch with lots of my beauty editor colleagues. As part of that event, we were offered skin scans that would reveal what our skin looked like beneath the surface - the opportunity to look at how well we were protecting and caring for our skin. The other thing it can do is calculate a skin age based on your results, which it determines by comparing your numbers to those in its large database.

My peers and I lined up, and one by one my friends all received very similar readings - a skin age younger than their actual years. Some were even 7/8 years younger. Everyone left extremely pleased with themselves. And then my time came - I sat on the stool, leant forward for the photographs and waited until the computer revealed my number...39. I am 36.

I'm not going to lie to you, I was pissed off. I know three years is nothing in the grand scheme of things, but as a beauty editor who prides herself on a thorough skincare routine it threw me. I never miss a cleanse, I use nourishing and antioxidant serums every single day, and I never leave the house without sun cream on my face. I'll admit that my retinol-use has dropped off slightly since having my two children and I blame them entirely for the fact that I no longer prioritise facials. And I suppose I have, since I hit my mid-30s, noticed that my skin looks a little less lifted. Unlike lots of my colleagues I don't get Botox (to be clear, I'm not judging, it's just not happened for me - yet), I don't stare into my mirror looking for new lines and it doesn't bother me when I get IDed buying a bottle of wine in Sainsbury's. If I'm totally honest, I've never really been concerned with ageing. Until now...

I decided there and then that I would look into this further. If I, someone who has access to incredibly hardworking products and a good knowledge of what's needed for optimum skin health, was getting it wrong, then what hope is there for those not in my position?

If I'm going to figure out why my skin is ageing faster than I am, I need to know exactly what's at play here. And to do that I needed to return to the scene of the crime - back to the skin scanner. This is how I found Montrose London - arguably the chicest dermatology and aesthetics clinic in the city. They had just taken delivery of a Visia Skin Analysis System - the skin scanner in question - and were more than happy to go on this journey with me.

I went through the same procedure and the result was identical - 39. But this time, I found out why.

A rather surprising result

"Your skin is very dehydrated, which is leading to uneven texture and tone as well as the impression of fine lines," Montrose's Aesthetician Jess Sedgwick told me. "Skin with a strong skin barrier surface should look cross-hatched, whereas anyone suffering from dehydration may see vertical fine lines in areas. You are experiencing this around your mouth, nasal labial folds and forehead."

Dehydration? I knew that my skin was often slightly parched, but I had no idea how bad it had got and how much harm it was causing. "Dehydrated skin may appear to age faster as the skin barrier is not working as it should," adds Montrose London's Consultant Dermatologist Dr Mariana Noy. "Dehydrated skin often appears dull and lacks the vibrancy of well-hydrated skin."

Jess showed me on screen how this had caused a loss of elasticity, causing my cheeks to drop and the fold near my mouth to look worse. Which if not treated, will make my jawline look less defined and lead to jowls.

This wasn't my only problem though. "Your UV damage and brown spots are also contributing to a higher TruSkin age, as this will have caused premature ageing. Pigmentation also holds inflammation which is present in your skin." I looked at the images of my brown spots and UV damage and it did look bad, but I grew up in the 90s and early 00s when there was still very little education about the severe damaging effects of the sun. There's a huge chunk of my early twenties when I would roast myself on a sun lounger, burn to the point of almost blistering and then peel. I would do this regularly. So this sun damage wasn't really a surprise to me. What was surprising was how much inflammation this was causing. Jess showed me the inflammation graphic and the amount of redness is shocking. "This dehydrates the skin even more, as well as breaks down your collagen and elastin preventing new proteins from forming." 

Then there was the texture build-up, bacteria and open pores. Jess explained that this is often down to lifestyle - stress, incorrect products or lack of sleep. As I mentioned I have two children and neither is particularly keen on sleep, so this added up. "Getting enough sleep is key to skin health, so what's likely to have happened is transepidermal water loss (the amount of water vapour evaporating from the skin surface) has increased, meaning a decrease in skin hydration. If the skin isn’t getting enough moisture naturally, or from skincare, the pores will open and attempt to get some from the air. This then leaves your skin more vulnerable to environmental damage. This has also dulled the complexion, contributed to any breakouts, and made the fine lines/wrinkles look worse."

So all in all, not a good result. Whilst my dehydration was the root cause of a lot of my skin issues, all of the above was contributing to making my premature ageing.

So what was the plan? Where did I go from here? Jess didn't seem too phased by my results and said that a combination of medical-grade skincare and a course of facials should get my skin back on track. "It will take time and patience but it is possible. You are looking at a minimum commitment of three months, though likely to see a much more significant improvement at six months onwards."

Hydrafacial

Jess recommended a course of three Hydrafacials, a non-invasive treatment that gives the skin exactly what it needs with the help of targeted boosters. It involves cleansing, exfoliating and, most importantly for me, hydrating. Different from most facials, each step is performed with a hand-held device, which in truth is a little bit like a tiny hoover. These treatments are available nationwide (to find your nearest provider simply pop your postcode into the brand's website).

For my first two facials Jess used a NassifMD Hydraglucan Intense Hydration booster, which rejuvenates and repairs the skin with a hit of hydration. During the final facial this was replaced with the Murad Vita C Booster, which gave me a boost of antioxidant protection, and helped tackle my increased levels of pigmentation thanks to the pigment suppressors in the formula. I was then placed under an LED light (red and near infra-red) to help stimulate my hydration cells, increase circulation, encourage new collagen and elastin and reduce inflammation.

Once that was over, Jess applied a hydration solution made with hyaluronic acid, a cocktail of antioxidants and skin conditioners to deeply hydrate and protect my skin. Next up came the Intraceuticals Oxygen Rejuvenate Serum to further combat dehydration, but on a deeper level. It does this in such a clever way - through the delivery of oxygen. This step also further stimulates collagen and elastin, and reduces redness. This meant that my tell-tale dehydration markers, like fine lines and creases on the forehead looked better after every single treatment.

The final step is the application of medical-grade skincare and for me that meant a three step hyaluronic layering process where each serum and cream applied has a different-sized molecule of HA so that each layer of my skin is flooded with hydration.

Reading that back, it sounds like a lot, but each treatment was just an hour and incredibly relaxing. I fell asleep in each one. Probably a combination of how calm I felt and those pesky sleep-hating kids again.

As with most facials, my skin looked a little pink afterwards but, oh my goodness, it looked dewy and plump almost immediately and the days following. This fresh-faced appearance continued weeks after.

The products

My homework for this project was an updated skincare regimen. Thankfully, I already used a few of the products that Jess suggested - SkinCeuticals C.E. Ferulic (hands down the best vitamin C serum) and SkinCeuticals Advanced-Brightening UV Defense Sunscreen SPF50.

The rest was completely new to me and included some from the brand ZO Skin, which can only be purchased from a medical professional following a consultation. I was told that I needed to start cleansing morning and night - I had taken to sticking just to the evenings for fear my dry skin would feel attacked - with a hydrating cleanser.

I needed to get back into the swing of things with a punchy, yet effective, retinol. This was to encourage cell turnover and increase collagen production to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

I was to introduce a gentle glycolic acid toner, to clear the dirt residue and help improve my texture, especially where my lines were most prominent. This is because dead skin cells can make them look worse. It also helps to prepare my skin for the next skincare steps.

I got my hands on a fancy-looking eye cream, which helps to target wrinkles and improves hydration.

And finally, I needed to employ the services of one of the most nourishing moisturisers that I have ever encountered. With dehydration you lose so much moisture, this cream was designed to put everything lost back into the skin.

Whilst I cannot argue with how much these products improved my skin, I'm aware that they cost a lot and not everyone has the means of popping in to see a dermatologist for their cleanser. So I asked Jess about over-the-counter products that I could swap these in for and she recommended CeraVe cleansers and moisturisers and La Roche-Posay serums for treating specific issues.

Dr Noy said that for those concerned with skin ageing, but unable to see a dermatologist regularly or access advanced tools like the Visia machine, focusing on a consistent and effective skincare routine is crucial. "A basic skincare routine should include a gentle, hydrating cleanser, a moisturiser with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, and an over-the-counter retinol (or prescribed retinoid) to promote cell turnover. Adding antioxidant serums with vitamin C or E can help protect against environmental damage. And a daily sunscreen application using a broad-spectrum (to cover UVA and UVB at least) SPF 30 or higher to protect against UV damage, which is the leading cause of premature ageing."

The results

Just a little over three months after my first appointment at Montrose, I went back for my final Visia scan. Jess had been a little concerned about some increased pigmentation that had sprung up on the side of my face towards the end of the second month when spring had arrived and brought stronger UV with it (that's a lesson in SPF reapplication folks - Jess thinks it could be linked to not topping up my sunscreen throughout the day), so I was a little nervous that that wouldn't help my case.

I did, as I had done all those months ago, sat on the stool, leant forward for the photographs and waited until the computer revealed my number...35. I am 36.

We had done it. The combination of super hydrating facials and effective skincare had helped me drop my TruSkin age by four years. I'll admit that initially, I was thrilled by the number, but when we took a closer look at the photographs that's really where the success lies. After just three months, my inflammation is all but gone, the drooping around my mouth has vastly improved and the established wrinkles starting to take hold around my eyes are barely visible.

There’s a rise in the number of teens - and more alarmingly a number of younger children - reaching for highly active skincare products in a bid to recreate the skincare routines of the content creators they're watching on TikTok. However, in doing so rather than achieving perfect skin, they are in fact causing severe damage. Whilst social media is a wonderful place to broadcast information and educate, the lack of regulation around misinformation has a lot to answer for.

Just after Christmas I was having dinner with a friend. We were talking, as you always do in January, about how we had coped with an extended time with our families. We talked about the drinks, the arguments and of course the gifts. I told her about the chic Host candlestick holders that my husband had given me and she told me something so shocking that I had to put my cutlery down. Her 13 year-old niece had been given a bottle of Drunk Elephant's Baby Facial.

If you are unfamiliar with this product, it's a brilliant and effective exfoliating face mask formulated with punchy AHA and BHAs to help improve texture, brighten dullness and even out skin tone. On the back of the bottle it recommends using it once a week for no longer than 20 minutes and those with sensitised skin should avoid it. As a 36-year-old woman whose skin often needs a pick-me-up, I absolutely love it, but it's a powerful product so I stick to the rules and am careful with how I use it. 

The idea that any 13-year-old, with young, bouncy, collagen-rich skin, would be using this product is not only shocking, but quite frankly confusing. Why on earth would she want to use it? And what had it done to her skin?

I took to TikTok to do my own research and it took me a very short time to find what I was looking for: videos of early teens (and younger children) filming themselves doing their skincare routines with potent products that I use to target my ageing skin. There were also clips shot in beauty departments of pre-pubescent girls getting excited about buying glycolic acid serums. I'm not exaggerating, these younger children were crying with happiness...about an exfoliating acid that stimulated fibroblasts to produce more collagen. 

A couple of weeks after that dinner with my friend, I went to a breakfast with Dr Maryam Zamani who was extending her MZ Skin product range to include a new Calming range. Designed to soothe irritated, sensitive and redness-prone skin, Dr Zamani explained that there's an increased demand for products that help rebuild the skin barrier, as she was seeing more of her clients coming to her clinic with increased inflammation, triggered by the overuse of active ingredients. She also mentioned that she had seen steep rise in younger people with serious skin issues, caused by the same thing. "With the use of active skincare," she says. "I am seeing more patients presenting with perioral dermatitis, periorbital dermatitis, and over sensitised skin."

It was clear to me that there was something at play here. I asked other dermatologists and clinics whether they too had seen a rise in the number of young people with skin complaints seemingly caused by using products containing active ingredients. 

"There is definitely an increase in young people coming to see me with inappropriate (or not age-appropriate) skin care that is causing all sorts of problems," says Dr Eirini Merika, Consultant Dermatologist at Montrose London. 

She added that there was growing concern from parents about the products their children had bought following recommendations from friends and the media. She had mums and dads asking about whether their children should be using certain ingredients yet, explaining that they'd had severe reactions from using certain products.

Dr Bei Bei Du Harper, another dermatologist and a skin scientist, was quick to agree that more and more teens were "inappropriately using strong exfoliating acids or a retinoid eye cream and developing skin irritation." When I asked her what she thought was the main culprit behind it, she said: "exposure to social media, [and] choosing skincare based upon trends and packaging rather than what their skin needs."

We all know the power of social media, this is nothing new. It has an incredible amount of influence on our everyday lives, especially for the younger generations who are born into this digital-first age. Dove recently commissioned a survey that identified one in three young girls are expected to have cosmetic work or plastic surgery to alter their appearance as they age. "Today, girls are exposed to adult skincare content online and pressures to look a certain way at a very young age, to the extent that they’re adding products designed for adults to their wish lists and skincare regimens, without understanding the possible consequences for their physical and mental health. All of this contributes to a toxic culture of unrealistic beauty standards and pressures,” explains Dr Phillippa Diedrichs, PhD, Professor of Psychology and leading body image expert who worked with Dove on its #TheFaceof10 campaign, which is hoping to educate parents and caregivers on this issue. "When did 10-year-olds start worrying about wrinkles and getting older? It is time to speak up to highlight the absurdity and protect their self-esteem,” says Firdaous El Honsali, Dove's Global Vice President.

What are brands doing to deal with this issue?

Brands are aware of this growing problem. Mantle, the Scandinavian skincare brand, recently became one of the first brands to restrict individuals under the age of 18 from buying products through its website. "We find it problematic that children and teenagers can buy and use active products that aren't suitable for them," says CEO Josefin Landgård. She said she brought in the new age restrictions following the growing trend of children and teenagers longing for products that aren't suitable for them just because they're trending on TikTok. Whilst she isn't aware if there have been any teen Mantle customers, she thinks it's Mantle's duty to raise its voice in the hope that other brands and retailers follow suit. "The anti-ageing message of the industry and society has run deep when we have 9-year-olds wanting anti-ageing products and think that three serums layered each morning is necessary."

Arguably, the brand at the centre of this issue is Drunk Elephant. Known for its bright packaging and fun product names, the majority of the products in the TikTok videos I watched were Drunk Elephant. This isn't news to the brand, it has issued statements on its platforms and claims that many of its products are safe for all skin, including children's and teenager's. There's also a section on its website called "Younger Fans" that recommends exactly which products can be used on younger skin and which it recommends exercising caution with

What ingredients should teens steer clear of?

So what are the main sources of these skin issues? Dr Bei Bei, Dr Zamani and Dr Merika all seemed to agree that it's the misuse of active ingredients - retinals, exfoliating acids and antioxidants - that's to blame. "Active ingredients aren’t inherently harmful," says Dr Bei Bei. "It is more that they are being used or incorporated inappropriately."

She was keen to point out that when used correctly some of these ingredients can be useful to some younger skin. "In reality, we actually often recommend treatments containing salicylic acid or retinoids to teens for acne, so it’s not that they categorically have to avoid these things. However, they need to have an awareness of what their skin actually needs - and if they don’t have acne or oily skin then they don’t need these kinds of products." 

It's common for those going through puberty to be plaugued by blemishes and in some cases quite severe cases of acne, so Dr Zamani says she will often suggest "a skincare routine that helps manage breakouts, reduces inflammation, and promotes overall skin health. Salicylic acid is a great ingredient to deep cleanse the pore preventing blackheads, or whiteheads as it is an oil loving acid."

What should teenagers be using on their skin?

Again, our experts were once again in agreement about this: cleanse, moisturise and protect. "Generally speaking cleanser, moisturiser, and sunscreen is the gold triad for all skin care routines," says Dr Merika. "It's essential to focus on gentle yet effective ingredients that cater to the specific needs of youthful skin," adds Dr Zamani. "I recommend using a gentle cleanser at night, targeted skin care if there is acne under the guidance of a doctor, moisturiser and SPF."

We know that there is mass appeal for the brightly packaged branding, thankfully there are a number of teen appropriate brands that fall into this category, like Spots + Stripes and indu. indu actually consults with teenagers when creating its products. Not only is it packaged in an appealing way, but it also has efficacious formulas that help teens work with their skin not against it. There's a make-up category and a skincare line. Within the skincare range there were ingredients that were specifically not included: "We left out any ingredients that should be exclusively for adults such as retinoids, vitamin C, aggressive exfoliants like AHA and other anti-ageing ingredients such as collagen," says Gaia Carminati, Head of Product Development. "Our goal is to give teens the knowledge and products to start a healthy relationship with beauty," says Co-Founder, Reena Hammer. "Where they should be themselves and have fun in a safe space. In the coming months we are launching a whole education hub on our website. There is a lot of misinformation out there so our approach is clear simple honest information."

And if you know a teen desperately asking for a Drunk Elephant product for their birthday, that's OK too. There are products in the brand's line-up that are fine to be used on younger skin. Namely, Beste Jelly Cleanser, Lala Retro Whipped Cream and Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defense. 

The key really is knowing what your teen's skin needs. 

Best skincare for teens

Best cleansers for teens

Best moisturisers for teens

Best spot treatments for teens

Best SPF for teens

At the end of each year beauty experts give their predictions for the following 12 months. From manicurists guiding us on the nail trends to be on top of as we head into Spring, to the hair trends that will see us through each of our salon visits. Dermatologists get in on the act too - they give us an indication of the facial procedures that will be at the top of everyone's treatment lists, as well as the must-have ingredients to include in our skincare routines. At the end of 2023, multiple skin experts predicted that one of the biggest ingredients of the year would be ectoin. 

As we approach spring, we've already seen a number of big product launches drop and those in the know were right, ectoin is appearing on more and more inci lists. 

But what is it and why should we be on the look out for it? We sat down with some of the industry's most respected skin experts to find out. 

What is ectoin?

Ectoin is a extremolyte, which is a protective molecule that safeguards organisms from extreme and harsh environments. In the case of ectoin, it does this for a specific strain of bacteria discovered in 1985 in a salt lake. It protects that bacteria by creating a protective shield that stops UV, heat and pollutants from inflicting damage. It was found later on that it could do the same thing for skin and it's set to become the skin barrier's new BFF.

What does ectoin do to the skin?

"What doesn't it do?" should be the more appropriate question. Ectoin has a lengthy list of skin benefits. "It's known as a "natural moisturiser" that can help hydrate and soothe dry, irritated or damaged skin," says Dr Eirini Merika, Consultant Dermatologist at Montrose London.. By creating the same type of protection as it does to the bacteria, which Dr Merika dubbed a "hydro shield", it prevents water loss from cells, enhances skin moisture and hydration and regulates cell turnover. 

Quite a list of talents for one single ingredient. Dr Malvina Cunningham, a Consultant Dermatologist, says that it's a unique ingredient for that very reason: "It hydrates in a similar way to hyaluronic acid, it protects the skin in a similar way to antioxidants and it soothes the skin in a similar way to ingredients such as bisabolol." Dr Bei Bei Du Harper, another dermatologist, really likes it as an alternative to bakuchiol because of how much it supports the skin barrier, calms inflammation and helps protect against UVA damage.

Who would benefit most from using ectoin in their skincare?

The beauty of ectoin and its barrier-supporting powers is that it works for every single skin type. However, if you have dry, dehydrated or sensitised skin - we're talking tightness, dullness, redness and visible creases on the face - then it's time to start seeking out ectoin next time you go skincare shopping, because you are going to see the difference the most. 

Dr Merika suggests that even those with inflammatory skin conditions, like atopic dermatitis, could also use products with ectoin thanks to its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Dr Cunningham adds that it makes a great midlife ingredient, because of "its abilities to hydrate, protect and soothe the skin." 

How do you use ectoin in your skincare routine?

The beauty of this ingredient is that it can be formulated into any product type, but Dr Cunningham says that it's most effective in creams and serums. Which is handy because it can now be found in some of the best face serums on the market. 

Products formulated with ectoin

In a nutshell, ectoin strengthens the skin barrier, boosts hydration and soothes inflammation. You can see why this is considered one of the most sought-after ingredients of 2024. 

If you've been on social media in the last few months, you likely saw reality TV star Kourtney Kardashian's latest venture, a supplement brand launch.

One of the products is a vaginal-specific gummy called "Lemme Purr," which the star shared online uses pineapple, vitamin C and probiotics to target vaginal health and pH levels. Claiming to “support freshness and taste" and "turn your vagina into a sweet treat," it joins a long line of products launched by the Kardashian family.

That said, she's not the only world-famous celebrity using their platform to flog intimate care products. Gwyneth Paltrow pretty much invented the space with the launch of Goop her sexual wellness brand in 2008—you might remember she made headlines globally in 2018 when yoni eggs started retailing on the platform.  

As a Health Editor, I'm all for sex positivity, pleasure and looking after our bodies. That said, what I can't get my head around is this incessant retailing of more products that appear do what our bodies are already doing. While skin supplements, collagen drinks, the foods we eat and even the best skincare products can aid our bodies in doing the things it does best to keep our skin looking its healthiest, retailing products for our so-called 'intimate area' and, indeed, the skin around it doesn't sit right with me.

I've spoken to countless doctors and gynaecologists about this off the record but wanted to get an expert's take in writing—so I picked the brains of Zahra Ameen, consultant gynaecologist and obstetrician at the Cadogan Clinic. Below, she shares her professional opinion, plus warns why intimate products can often do more harm than good. 

As more celebrities start pushing intimate care products, we ask: can they cause more harm than good?

First things first: a bit of background for you. According to Ameen, despite it being a complex field, the market is currently flooded with care products specifically marketed for "intimate use". Brands such as DeoDoc, Luna and Fur have launched in recent years selling intimate-specific products with tailored pHs, while household names like Dr Barbara Sturm have extended their existing product ranges to include high-end intimate health and hygiene products in recent months.

Wondering what an intimate product actually is and what sets it apart from other body washes and wipes? Good question. While they range in format – think washes, oils, serums, ointments, and wipes – they all serve the same purpose, offering a 'cleaner' and 'healthier' vulva and vagina. Some claim to 'help odour', others, to 'balance your microbiome'. 

Does an expert recommend using vaginal care products? 

In other words, what does the expert share with her own clients? Does she advise they use them? "I've never medically advised women to use specific washes, serums or deodorants on their vulval or vaginal area," shares Ameen. "In fact, often these products can have an adverse effect, disrupting the organisms normally residing in the vagina and leading to an overgrowth of other organisms such as Gardnerella vaginalis and candida."

While some preliminary research has been done – as Kourtney shares on her website, "Lemme Purr is formulated with a clinically-studied dose of SNZ 1969™ probiotics, demonstrated to support vaginal health, vaginal odour and vaginal freshness" – the gynaecologist goes on to explain that there simply hasn't been enough research as of yet to conclusively confirm any of the benefits that the products promise.

Use these products too much or for too long, and you risk developing a condition known as bacterial vaginosis (BV), the expert warns - an infection of the vagina caused by an imbalance of your naturally-occurring flora. "It can occur in up to 50% of women and includes symptoms like an unpleasant fishy smelling discharge," she shares. "Other adverse effects include increased risk of miscarriage, pre-term birth, infection in labour, pelvic inflammatory disease, and also the acquisition of certain types of sexually transmitted infections such as gonorrhoea, chlamydia and herpes."

Of course, it's not just intimate care products that increase your risk of BV. Other potentially aggravating factors include: 

• Douching
• New/multiple sexual partners
• Taking antibiotics for another condition
• Copper intrauterine contraceptive device

Need more convincing? The National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE) actually warns against using vaginal products, such as douches, deodorant and vaginal washes, confirming them as a "risk factor for raising vaginal pH". They also advise against using bubble baths or shampoos in the bath for the same reason. 

You're not just at risk of BV, either. Disruption of your vaginal flora can also cause thrush, an inflammation of the vagina and sometimes vulva caused by a superficial fungal infection. 

What about supplements, then, that you swallow rather than topically apply? "Supplements are not required," the expert confirms, reaffirming that the vagina is a self-cleaning organ. "While probiotics can be useful in supporting general health, they won't prevent or cure any existing issues, like BV or thrush."

Could these products ever be 'empowering'?

Sure, there's no scientific evidence for using the products at current—but what does the expert think about the placebo effect such products might have? Can intimate care products ever be empowering for women and a positive way of encouraging them to take their health into their own hands? 

Short answer: she doesn't think so. "Rather, I think it's empowering for women to be given advice and information on treatments that are evidence-based and have been proven to benefit them, rather than just commercial treatments," she explains. 

As a Health Editor, I don't think they're empowering, either. While they may be designed with that in mind, encouraging women to spend their money on products they simply don't need – and which could actually cause health problems – gets a no from me. 

Not to mention, there simply isn't the same market for products like these in men, reaffirming that women face far more pressure to constantly be improving all aspects of their lives.

Bottom line?

So, it's pretty clear what the expert reckons—she confirms that there's no genuine need for such products based on the current scientific evidence. "Medically and as a gynaecologist, I wouldn’t advise a woman to use these products," she confirms. "Anyone thinking of using these products should look at the evidence in favour of them that has been proven in clinical trials," she goes on. 

As I've long suspected, she warns that these products – marketing at improving your vaginal health – can actually do more harm than good, putting you at risk of infections you otherwise likely wouldn't be prone to. Often with products tailored to 'down there', our bodies are already doing whatever the product promises to achieve. So save your time, money, and a potential infection, while you're at it.

One final note from Ameen: "It's important to understand that the vagina is a self-cleaning organ—you don’t need to use scented products or soaps to keep it clean."

Of course, your standard feminine hygiene products – think sanitary pads, tampons, and menstrual cups – are completely fine to use and likely won't cause any issues. It goes without saying, though, if you do suspect you might have an infection, book an appointment with your GP for a tailored, expert opinion.

Before we get into this, I want to make something very clear: if you have an issue with your skin right now, please know that no diet is going to clear it up. As a beauty journalist of nearly a decade, I have learned enough to know that any claims of exclusionary diets being able to clear up skin problems are, for the most part, false. As with any skin concern, whether it be acne, rosacea or eczema, the best advice is always to see a doctor before you make any drastic changes to your lifestyle.

I feel so passionately about this, in fact, that up until this point, I have never written anything about the relationship between food and skin—I'm not a doctor, after all. However, when I started having problems with my skin back in 2020, I booked in to see one of the best consultant dermatologists I know, Dr Thivi Maruthappu. What Dr Maruthappu has taught me about skin over the course of two years has, truly, changed the way I approach my skincare routine.

As mentioned, Dr Maruthappu is a consultant dermatologist, which means she has trained for many, many years as a doctor who deals more or less exclusively with skin issues. The first lesson you learn as a beauty editor is that consultant dermatologists are the people to go to for unbiased, science-led skin information. As well as being a consultant dermatologist, Dr Maruthappu is also a nutritionist who has dedicated a big chunk of her career to the field of nutrition—leading studies on the relationship between nutrition and certain skin conditions (most notably, psoriasis). 

In her new book, SkinFood, Dr Maruthappu explains that while the links between skin and nutrition are still not widely researched enough, there are some foods which can aid in giving your skin the best chance of looking its healthiest. There are also some foods which, although she doesn't recommend avoiding (no food should be strictly cut out when it comes to skin, unless you have an intolerance or allergy), she does recommend understanding some of their caveats when it comes to the role they might be playing in your skin's functioning.

Of course, it's needless to say that the below only applies to those who aren't actively trying to manage a particular skin condition, and rather just want the best out of their skin. If you suspect there is something wrong with the way your skin is functioning, please book an appointment with your GP or a dermatologist for the best advice for you. However, if you're interested in the ways in which food has a part to play in your skin's health, here are the five foods Dr Maruthappu recommends adding to your diet (and the three she says to be cautious of).

Best foods for healthy-looking skin

1. Probiotics

"Think kimchi, sauerkraut, kefir and kombucha—the gut-skin axis is real and gut health influences skin health, sometimes contributing to [accelerated] skin ageing, eczema, psoriasis, rosacea and acne/breakouts. The best way to support your gut health is to look at food rather than supplements, and probiotic foods are rich in beneficial good bacteria species."

2. Tomatoes

"Chock full of lycopene, the humble tomato is a powerful food. Lycopene has been shown in studies to help prevent free-radical damage in the skin, which is responsible for the first signs of premature skin ageing. Cooked tomatoes contain higher levels, so use in soups and stews for maximum benefit."

3. Cherries

"There's a reason [my book] SkinFood has cherries on the cover! Full of powerful phytochemicals which fight the skin ageing process and prevent free-radical damage, they also contain compounds which help you catch your beauty sleep—so important for healthy skin."

4. Wholegrains

"We often think carbs are bad for us, but wholegrains such as brown rice, quinoa and whole oats contain micronutrients and support beneficial gut bacteria species due to their fibre-rich content. They also help to balance blood sugar by keeping levels stable."

5. Walnuts

"Walnuts contain the highest level of omega 3 fatty acids of any nut, plus they contain proteins and micronutrients, too. Omega 3 helps to support the skin barrier, keeping it supple and smooth and preventing dryness."

3 foods to be cautious of when it comes to skin concern

1. Alcohol

While we know that alcohol should, of course, always be consumed in moderation for our overall health and wellbeing, it's worth noting that alcohol in excess is linked to certain skin flare ups, too. "Studies show drinking more alcohol is linked to premature skin ageing, and it can also flare skin conditions like rosacea, eczema and psoriasis," she says.

2. Sugar

Again, sugar isn't something to fear or be afraid of—and you certainly shouldn't have to go without entirely. "Just be mindful of sugar. You don't need to cut it out completely, however, it can be known to accelerate premature skin ageing and contribute to breakouts for some (although not everyone)," says Dr Maruthappu.

3. Whey protein supplements

This is something Dr Maruthappu raised with me in my first consultation with her. She asked me if I consume a lot of whey protein supplementation, which surprised me. "They can trigger flares of acne, as they contain high levels of IGF-1. [It's sometimes worth] giving it a miss and sticking to vegan protein powder if you need extra protein," she says. Again, this isn't true for everyone, it's just something to be aware of.

I'd like to start this review by making something very clear: I have spent my entire career convinced that collagen supplements and collagen drinks don't work in the way they promise to. I'm a beauty editor who takes her job of debunking outlandish marketing claims very seriously—and some collagen drinks (and other skin supplements) really take outlandish claims to the extreme.

I've done years of journalistic research into whether or not collagen drinks positively impact the appearance of skin, hair and nails in the same way as say the best cleanser or best hair mask might—and my results have largely been inconclusive. While some experts and formulators say that taking collagen supplements can leave skin healthier, more plump and glowing, and hair and nails stronger and healthier, others say there's little chance collagen supplements ever make it through the body's digestive system.

There is one particular brand of collagen drink that has, however, appealed to me somewhat. Vida Glow is an Australian ingestible beauty brand that specialises in marine collagen. In fact, it's the number one marine collagen brand globally. Its chic packaging and genuinely impressive clinical trial results have meant its a brand that has been on my radar for some years now.

The thing about Vida Glow is that I've encountered a bunch of skincare experts who tell me it's a brand they can actually get behind—and it's the formula that sets it apart. Throughout my collagen research, I have found there is one thing most experts can agree on, and that's that no two collagen drinks are made equal. I'd say that the majority of experts I've spoken to over the years are willing to admit that certain collagen drink brands are sure to work better than others. Why? It all comes down to the formula and at what stage the collagen is absorbed by the body—and Vida Glow's appears to tick all the right boxes.

Ever the collagen sceptic, I decided that I was never truly going to understand the hype around collagen drinks unless I gave one a go for myself—and Vida Glow Natural Marine Collagen seemed like the best place to start. But because I don't embark on anything in the realm of supplements lightly, I first had a conversation with ingestible beauty expert and Founder of Vida Glow, Anna Lahey, to really understand what I was putting into my body.

What is collagen and why do we need to supplement it?

"Collagen is a protein that our bodies naturally produce, it acts as a building block, giving our skin, hair and nails their structure, elasticity and firmness. The rate our bodies produce collagen starts to gradually decline form around the age of 25. This is when we start to see the early signs of ageing, for example, fine lines," says Lahey.

It's also worth noting here that collagen doesn't just form the make up of our skin, but of our entire body—including muscle, tissue, organs and bones. And this is a big source of my scepticism when it comes to collagen drinks. There is no way, currently, of knowing whether or not the collagen we are supplementing our body with is even being used by the skin, hair or nails. There is every chance that, if it is making it into our bloodstream in a way our bodies deem usable, it's being utilised by other body parts.

What is marine hydrolyzed collagen?

You'll see some collagen brands referring to their collagen as 'hydrolyzed'—this is a good thing and something to keep an eye out for. Essentially, it means the collagen protein is broken down into a smaller size. "Marine collagen is a supplement derived from the skin of fish. We use the skin that would otherwise be discarded as watse by the food industry. The skin is put through a process called hydrolyzation, which transforms it into collagen peptides. The smaller the collagen peptide, the easier it is for your body to absorb. Higher absorption means it's more effective in replenishing and restoring collagen to a deeper layer of hair skin and nails, which is when you start to see significant results," reveals Lahey.

What are the different types of collagen supplement?

You'll see various version of collagen, mostly bovine (from cattle), porcine (from pigs) and marine (from fish). It's needless to say, therefore, that collagen supplements typically aren't suitable for vegans or vegetarians unless stated on the packet. 

The differences between these forms of collagen make a difference to the efficacy of the product. Lahey explains, "Studies have noticed that marine-based collagen can be absorbed 1.5X more efficiently than other forms of collagen. The key difference that sets marine collagen apart from bovine or porcine collagen is the size of the peptide. Once hydrolyzed, marine collagen peptides are much smaller, meaning the bioavailability is higher."

How does a marine collagen drink work?

Well, depending upon the quality of the collagen and the formula, it works differently. Experts will explain that it is extremely difficult for a collagen drink to make it through the digestive system without being considered 'waste'—if you know what I'm saying. (One of my go-to doctors once described collagen drinks as 'a good way to have an expensive poo', and I'll never forget it.)

However, with hydrolyzed marine collagen, such as the one Vida Glow uses, the digestive system barely gets a look in—the collagen is absorbed before it even gets to the main digestive track. "Once ingested, marine collagen is absorbed and distributed into the blood stream via blood vessels to the deeper layer of the skin, called the dermis. Once it reaches the collagen matrix, it stimulates fibroblast proliferation, generating the production of fresh collagen. When you ingest hydrolyzed collagen peptides, you're increasing the pool of specific amino acids that are needed by cells in the body to produce collagen," says Lahey.

Are collagen drinks bad for the planet?

There isn't really a straightforward answer to this one. In theory, yes collagen drinks are bad for the planet in the sense that every unnecessary beauty product is bad for the planet. Having said that, collagen drinks get a particularly bad rap for their use of animal products. Lahey, however, is very keen to highlight that Vida Glow is aware of this issue.

"We source our collagen responsibly from open water farms in Europe. These marine eco-systems are monitored to strict European standards, ensuring purity, as well as minimal environmental impact. We use a range of specific fish species to complete the complex amino acid profile necessary to deliver clinical results from collagen supplmentation. The fish we use is supplied for human consumption and meets our stringent quality demands, as well as those of the food and hospitality industries. We source under the strict sustainability standards of Global GAP, The Aquaculture Stewardship Council and Best Aquaculture Practices. These internationally recognised agencies establish stringent guidelines to ensure our suppliers are environmentally and socially responsible," she says.

Unlike other collagen brands, Vida Glow aren't destroying marine wildlife for the sake of collagen—they're utilising waste from the food industry.

So, does Vida Glow Collagen actually work?

I have spent many years speaking with Lahey about my feelings towards collagen. Every time we get together to discuss the latest Vida Glow launch, our conversation inevitably ends up focusing on collagen. And despite her relaying a whole bunch of impressive information, I'm a stubborn thing, and nothing she can say will convince me that a collagen drink can make my skin look better. 

"Clinical trials of our marine-based collagen show long-term skin benefits with daily use, after 8-12 weeks of consistent supplementation, our marine collagen is proven to increase skin firmness and elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles," she says. 

And after years of these conversations, one day she simply said to me, "Shannon, the only way you're going to understand is if you try it yourself. But you need to drink it every single day for 2-3 months." 

So I did. Here's how I got on...

Vida Glow Collagen Drink Review

As you can probably tell from the above, it took a look to get me to a place where I was willing to commit to a full collagen trial—but I did it. I committed to two full months of regular Vida Glow Marine Collagen supplementation. And truthfully? My skin looks better than ever. I'm annoyed about this. Not just because it proves me wrong, but because it looks good enough that I actually want to continue taking it.

Before we get into the nitty gritty of the results, I want to talk about how I found the actual drink. Take it from me: only opt for the unflavoured, 'original' option if you plan on adding it to your coffee or morning smoothie (although Lahey says results are best when just mixed with water)—it takes like sea water.

If you're not familiar with the taste of collagen drinks, beware that Vida Glow does still have that sea-like taste, even some of the flavoured options have a little tang. Personally, I found that Pineapple and Mango were the tastiest options. They're fruity but do have a suspect aftertaste that reminds me (just a little) of sea water. It's definitely the nicest tasting collagen drink I've encountered and is far from disgusting—in fact, it's very palatable. 

Finding a palatable collagen drink is absolutely key to its success. If it doesn't taste good, you probably won't feel incentivised to drink it every day—which is something you do have to do if you want to see results. I drank one glass of the Mango flavour every morning for one month, and then switched to the Pineapple flavour for month number two. By making the drink part of my morning routine, I didn't find myself forgetting it on any day. It slotted into my daily routine with ease. 

The sachets themselves are easy to use—just mix the flavoured sachet contents with a glass of water and drink. Personally, I found you get better results in taste if you add the water to the powder, instead of the other way around. 

It's worth noting here that the sachets are wasteful. They are convenient in that they can be popped into your handbag and had on the go, but the aluminium sachets are non-recyclable. I have seen on the Vida Glow website that this is an issue for them, and that they are currently looking for more sustainable options that don't forgo the quality of the product. 

After two months, I can safely say that I can see a different in my skin. It looks plump, glowing and healthy in a way I don't think it has before. Are the differences dramatic? Of course not. After all, no supplement alone is going to change the appearance of your skin that noticeably. I have seen a difference though in my radiance, and I don't think it can be denied. When my fiancé floated the notion of the results being 'placebo', I wasn't that bothered. Personally, I don't think it is a placebo situation, and even if it is, I'm still left happier with the appearance of my skin—so it would still be a placebo I'd buy into.

Will I be consuming a Vida Glow a day for entire year? Probably not—my skin doesn't really need it right now and I'm very mindful of the amount of waste I product as a beauty editor. However, if my beauty routine was more minimal and my footprint wasn't quite so wasteful, I would absolutely consider it.

Shop Vida Glow Natural Marine Collagen

Suncare is a bit like flossing your teeth; you know it’s bad to skip it, but sometimes you just can’t be bothered. Even when you're using the very best sun cream it can feel like a chore. And while that it's important wear year-round, now that spring has arrived and the sun has finally made a reappearance it's all the more important not to skip it—so finding a sun cream that you actually enjoy using is crucial.

Not to scaremonger, but sun damage really isn't something to be taken lightly. And we say that because according to Cancer Research UK every year around 16,744 new melanoma (the fifth most common cancer in the UK) cases are recorded in the UK.

"There is a misconception in the UK that we don’t need to wear sunscreen as the sun isn’t as strong," says consultant dermatologist at OneWelbeck Skin Health & Allergy and Eudelo clinic Dr Hiva Fassihi, who specialises in sun-sensitive disorders.

"The UV index measures the strength of sun-burning UV rays outside, ranging from one to a very high 11. When it reaches three you need to apply sunscreen. In the UK, the UV index can hit six or seven in summer, so broad-spectrum sun cream is essential."

The good news, however, is that nowadays there are plenty of sun creams that actually feel really nice to apply. In fact, they feel so nice that even the most stubborn SPF-haters out there will find themselves looking forward to slapping them on every day. From SPF moisturisers and expert-approved sunscreens to glowy sunscreens that transform dull skin, there are now hundreds of amazing sun protection options on the market.

Having said that, we know that there are plenty of duds out there when it comes to sun cream too—and when you're choosing the best protection for yourself and tour family it's important to get things right first time. Luckily, in a bid to save you time, energy and annoyance, we have spent our careers testing every formula out there to draw up a definitive list of the best sun cream. You're welcome.

Best sun creams for 2025: Quick links

• Best sunscreen to apply before make-up: Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 30, from £17.50 | Cult Beauty
• Best mineral facial sunscreen: Summer Fridays ShadeDrops Broad Spectrum SPF 30, £36 | Cult Beauty
• Best sunscreen for hyperpigmentation: L'Oréal Paris Bright Reveal Dark Spot UV Fluid SPF 50+, £20 | Lookfantastic
• Best sunscreen for glowing skin: Garnier Ambre Solaire Vitamin C Daily UV Brightening Fluid Glow SPF 50+, £8.92 | Amazon
• Best serum sunscreen: Naked Sundays CabanaClear Water Gel Serum SPF 50, £25 | Sephora
• Best sunscreen for irritated skin: La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ SPF 50, £11.90 | Sephora
• Best luxury facial sunscreen: Tatcha The Silk Sunscreen SPF 50, £65 | Tatcha
• Best lightweight facial sunscreen: Bioré UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence, £15.99 | Superdrug
• Best sunscreen for dry skin: CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF30, £11 | Amazon
• Best sunscreen for mature skin: Elemis Pro-Collagen Skin Protection Fluid SPF50, £55 | LookFantastic
• Best sunscreen for all-round protection: Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF 50 PA++++, £69 | Cult Beauty
• Best sunscreen spray: Sun Bum Original Moisturizing Sunscreen Spray, £13.99 | Amazon
• Best sunscreen stick: Caudalie Vinosun Protect Stick Invisible Haute Protection SPF 50, £16 | Sephora
• Best clear sunscreen: Lancaster Sun Protective Water, £31 | Lookfantastic
• Best sunscreen for tanning: Ultrasun Tan Activator For Body SPF 30, £28 | Lookfantastic
• Best sunscreen for kids: Nivea SUN Kids Protect & Care Caring Roll-On SPF 50+, £5.50 | Boots
• Best sunscreen for cooling: Coola Pina Colada Sunscreen Spray SPF 30, £22.95 | Amazon
• Best French pharmacy sunscreen: Avène Spray Sun Cream, £18 | Lookfantastic
• Best sunscreen with a water formula: Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water, £20.95 | Lookfantastic
• Best fragranced sunscreen: NUXE Sun Face and Body Delicious Sun Spray, £24 | Marks & Spencer
• Best luxurious sunscreen: Rituals The Ritual of Karma Invisible Sun Protection Milky Spray, £22.90 | Lookfantastic
• Best sunscreen for the whole family: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Mune 400 Dermo Pediatrics Invisible Spray SPF50+, £23.90 | LookFantastic

Our testing criteria for the best sun cream

Each of these sun creams has been tested by someone on the Marie Claire UK beauty team against the below criteria. If the sun cream reveals a 'yes' answer to the below, it's made it on the our edit of the best.

• Is the UVA and UVB protection high enough/efficient?
• Is the formula easy to apply?
• Does the formula leave apply clear, rather than leaving a white cast?
• Is the formula comfortable to wear, rather than greasy?
• Is the sun cream enjoyable enough to use that you'll want to apply it every day?

So here goes; the best sun cream that money can buy in 2025, whatever your preference.

1. La Roche-Posay Anthelios UV Mune 400 Dermo Pediatrics Invisible Spray SPF50+

As a mum of two, freelance beauty editor and Marie Claire contributor Mica Ricketts is well-versed in applying sun cream to wriggling children and this one is her top pick for the best sunscreens for kids. However, thanks to the fact that it's been formulated with children’s delicate skin in mind, it makes a great pick for the entire family—or anyone with sensitive skin.

“Easy application is top of my list when it comes to the best sun creams for the body and the mist on this one from La Roche-Posay is brilliantly easy to apply,” says Mica. “It’s ultra-lightweight, sinks in really fast without leaving any noticeable residue or tackiness, and it’s resistant to all manner of things including sand and water so it’s a brilliant pick for holiday time as well as year-round.”

2. Sun Bum Original Moisturizing Sunscreen Spray

"I buy this spray-on sun cream every time I go on holiday—even at the airport, where the price is wildly inflated," says Laura. "It's light and easy to apply for top-ups when outside, yet also feels thorough enough. My boyfriend loves it too."

3. Caudalie Vinosun Protect Stick Invisible Haute Protection SPF 50

Sun cream sticks such as this one won't be any good for general application but are great for touch-up on small or more delicate areas such as the nose, ears, over tattoos, and around the edges of swimwear.

"I always pack a sun cream stick in my suitcase, and this year it'll be this Caudalie one," says Laura. "I like how chunky and wide it is, and how it's quite firm so doesn't immediately melt in the sun."

4. Lancaster Sun Protective Water

High filters to thwart UV rays? Tick. Completely sheer coverage? Double tick. "The fact that it can be applied to wet skin also deserves a mention," says Marie Claire's Senior Beauty Editor Katie Thomas. Those with dark skin tones can apply with abandon—there’s zero chance of this sunscreen leaving a grey cast behind.

5. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ SPF 50

The orginal La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume is a must-have in any skincare SOS kit, famed for its ability to calm and protect niggly skin, from mild eczema to the dreaded post-retinoid flaking. It also comes in this SPF 50 version, giving very high sun protection as it soothes.

"Although slightly thinner than the original, this is still very rich and leaves behind protective film—great for dry skin, not so good for oily or spot-prone complexions," says Laura. "It can be used all over the face and body, but I'll probably keep use it sparingly if I have patches of irritation flare up."

6. Ultrasun Tan Activator For Body SPF 30

If the benefits of UV protection aren't enticing enough, then the addition of an ingredient to activate the tanning process should be. Truth be told, there is no safe way to tan, however, if you do insist on sitting out in the sun, make sure you're wearing an SPF like this one.

"In all honestly my pale skin never really tans, but if I was hoping to achieve a slight golden glow in mild sun—and safely—I'd do it wearing this," says freelance beauty editor Laura Mulley.

7. Nivea SUN Kids Protect & Care Caring Roll-On SPF 50+

Putting sun cream on children is one of life's biggest challenges. They don't want it on and you don't want to do it—so anything that makes life that little bit easier is a winner. Nivea's SPF 50+ Roll-On is exactly that: full body application in no time at all. Plus it has that gorgeous Nivea Sun smell, which makes cuddles with the tiny ones afterwards glorious.

"I don't have children but even I'm tempted to use this just from the smell alone," says Laura. "I'm all for hands-free sun cream application too (although you will need to rub this in a bit afterwards)."

8. Coola Pina Colada Sunscreen Spray SPF 30

This is the ultimate summer holiday sun cream. Not only does it smell just like one—pineapples and coconuts—but it's so easy to apply; when you're in and out of the sea, cafés and outfits, this spray makes for super simple reapplication.

"This is my ride-or-die sunscreen. It feels so luxurious to apply and has everyone asking after it because of that all-important tropical scent," says Shannon.

9. Avène Spray Sun Cream

You can always rely on the French pharmacies to deliver top-notch sunscreen, and this spray formula from Avène was spotted on one of Hailey Bieber's Instagram stories, in a photo of Hailey and Kendall Jenner sunbathing. What makes this SPF so great is that it's suitable for everyone—even those with sensitive skin and children.

"I adore spray-on sun creams, and will always choose them of thick creams," says Laura. "This one dries very quickly but isn't completely clear—something to bear in mind if you have dark skin. I love its twist-up, travel-safe locking mechanism too."

10. Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water

By combining hyaluronic acid with mineral water and a high-factor SPF, you get the balance just right: your skin is hydrated and protected while the clear, non-greasy formula suits all skin types and skin tones.

Marie Claire Editor Sunil Makan says, "This is the best body sunscreen out there, in my opinion."

11. NUXE Sun Face and Body Delicious Sun Spray

If you're looking for a sun cream with a delicious, long-lasting scent, this NUXE one is for you. The rich, hydrating formula leaves a silky finish on the skin and delivers an uplifting fragrance with notes of sweet orange, Tahitian gardenia and vanilla.

"This smells divine—almost as good as an actual perfume," says Laura. "The formula itself is really lovely too; milky, quickly absorbed and not at all greasy."

12. Rituals The Ritual of Karma Invisible Sun Protection Milky Spray

This sun cream might not be the most expensive on the list but, in our opinion, it's definitely most luxurious. Not only does this milky spray leave skin feeling beautifully soft and looking glowing, but it also smells delicious, making it a total joy to use. If you're somebody who struggles to find the motivation to apply sun cream, investing in this can should do the trick.

"I absolutely adore this sun cream," says Shannon. "Whenever I pull it out of my bag, somebody else wants in on it too."

13. Ultra Violette Extreme Screen Hydrating Body and Hand Skinscreen

Ultra Violette is an incredible brand for sunscreen in general, but this hand and body sun cream (or skinscreen as they call it) blows a lot of the traditional body SPFs that we’ve all grown up with out of the water. Not only does it have high, broad-spectrum protection, the formula itself is beautifully hydrating too so it doubles as a decent body moisturiser. There’s vitamin E, aloe vera and pentavitin to help with long-term hydration and, as the icing on the cake, there’s a subtle shimmer running through it so you’ll really glow when you step outside with this on.

worth of hydration. And just to make sure your limbs glimmer in the sunshine, there's added shimmer thrown in for good measure. Pool day, anyone?

14. Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF50

Available in a whole range of sizes from a diddy handbag-friendly 30ml to an enormous half a litre pump dispenser, this versatile sun cream is ideal for taking with you when you’re on-the-go and keeping in your bathroom cabinet for the whole family to use before they head out. It has a beautiful lightweight texture that’s infused with sunflower, rosemary and rice antioxidants to protect skin against the effects of pollution as well as broad-spectrum protection from the sun. Plus, it has a fresh and zesty scent that smells really uplifting too.

How to choose the best sun cream for your skin

The SPF (sun protection factor) number indicates the level of protection against burning. The NHS recommends using SPF 30 and above, as this clinically proven to be reduce the adverse effects of sunlight.

There are lots of little symbols and numbers on sun cream bottles, which can be confusing, so here's a guide to help you decipher the information.

You want your sun cream to protect against both UVA (the skin-ageing rays) and UVB (the burning rays). Look for the term broad-spectrum, as this indicates the formula contains adequate protection against both types of rays. However, it's a good idea to pay closer attention to the individual levels of both UVA and UVB protection.

To protect against skin-ageing, skin-damaging rays, look for UVA protection too. You want to make sure that your suncream protects against UVA rays because they travel deeper into the skin, where they can trigger pigmentation, wrinkles and loss of firmness. This protection is indicated in various forms, depending on where the sun cream is from.

UVA star rating: Here in the UK, our sun care brands will use the UVA star rating. It shows UVA in a circle with stars below indicating the level of protection. One star is minimum, two stars moderate, three stars good, four stars superior and five stars ultra.

UVA Seal: This is the most common UVA rating. It's the letters UVA in a circle and has been classed as sufficient protection.

PA Rating: Seen mostly on American and International brands. The higher the number of + after the PA the better (the highest rating is PA++++). It's not really recognised as the best way to show protection here in the UK.

Why is it so important to use the best sun cream?

We chatted with Jo Stoddart, cancer specialist at Bupa UK, about the importance of protecting your skin from the sun.

"Melanoma is a type of cancer that starts in the pigment cells in your skin—called melanocytes—and can spread to other parts of your body. Thought mainly to be due to sun exposure, the incidence is increasing and unfortunately in some cases can be life-threatening."

What are the causes of melanoma?

Melanoma is caused by various genetic and environmental factors. There are certain genetic factors, which will increase your risk of developing melanoma, including those who have a larger number of moles or moles that are atypical. Additionally, people with pale skin, red or blonde hair and blue or green eyes are at a greater risk than those with dark features.

Family history is also important when it comes to your risk of melanoma, with it playing a part in around one in ten cases.

Excessive exposure to sunlight or UV radiation from sunbed use is the main environmental factor that can cause melanoma. If you have had severe sunburn or intense exposure to the sun in the past, particularly in childhood, then you are also at a higher risk.

What are the signs of melanoma?

Melanoma may start in an existing mole on your skin or it may start on normal skin, creating a new, abnormal mole. There are key signs to look out for when checking your moles on a monthly basis.

We suggest employing the ABCDE checklist when you check your moles, which should flag up the key signs that your mole could be a melanoma:

A – asymmetry – one half of the mole looks different to the other

B – border irregularity – the edges are uneven or jagged

C – colour variability – the mole is a mixture of different colours

D – diameter – the mole is bigger than 6mm across

E – evolution – the mole has changed in size, shape or colour

"But sunscreen is so sticky and unpleasant," we hear you say. And in the past, you’d be right. Historically sunscreen had a bad reputation for being gloopy and leaving behind white smears, especially on dark skin tones. There are nowaday, however, some that are the best sun creams for dark skin tones.)

But formulations now are so different to days gone by. They absorb quickly, they have added skincare benefits and most importantly they are easy to apply.

The latest SPF waters

New technology means that the latest sunscreens are now genuinely invisible on application, and oh-so sheer that they glide over the skin as light as coconut water.

This is especially true of the latest SPF 50 oil-in-water hybrids, which are as far from a traditional suncream as you can get. These waters use the same bi-phase technology found in eye make-up removers.

"You need to have oil in sunscreen as that’s where the high, broad-spectrum filters are embedded," says Dr Fassihi. "The water phase is where the hydrating and antioxidant ingredients sit."

Dispensed as a fine mist, those like La Roche Posay Anthelios Invisible Spray SPF50+ and Vichy Capital Soleil Solar Protective Water Hydrating SPF50 are so lightweight, you could almost forget you were wearing sun cream altogether.

The bottom line? You’re more likely to want to use them every day.

Use a separate sunscreen for the face

The sun protection ingredients for facial use aren’t necessarily different from those you apply elsewhere— you’ll just find the textures thinner, less pore-clogging and designed to play nicely under make-up.

The best facial sunscreens and the best SPF moisturisers are also flooded with additional skincare ingredients such as antioxidants to ward off sun-related issues including wrinkles, pigmentation and dehydration.

How to use sunscreen

Rub it in well: Per the NHS's guidelines apply two tablespoons' worth to the entire body (or two teaspoons if you're only exposing your face, neck and arms) and re-apply every two hours.

Remember that sunscreen can expire: This makes it less effective. Check the bottle for the open jar symbol, which indicates a product's shelf life after it's been opened. For sun cream this is usually 12 months, so even if it hasn’t hit its expiration date, if it's over a year old, it won’t be as effective. And remember to always store your sun cream in a cool, dry place.

Few things get beauty editors talking quite like the topic of silicones in skincare. You see, silicones have received a particularly bad rap over the years—and as someone with oily skin, I've always tried my utmost to avoid them wherever possible. Why? Because they're considered pretty bad all-round. 

A quick Google search on silicones in skincare will tell you they trap oil and bacteria on the skin (causing breakouts), that they're terrible for the environment and that, as a rule, most people should pretty much steer clear. But actually, after doing some digging and speaking to some experts, I've found out that silicones in skincare aren't anywhere near as bad for us as we first thought.  In fact, many experts say they can, in some cases, really help the appearance of the skin—particularly when it comes to your skin prep for make-up.

If, like me, you've been avoiding silicones in your skincare products, here's what experts want you to know...

What are silicones in skincare?

Essentially, silicones are a group of synthetic ingredients used regularly in our cosmetic products. "Silicones are found in many different beauty products, including moisturisers, primers, foundations and haircare," says Dr Thivi Maruthappu, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic.

Silicones are added to skincare products for a whole bunch of reasons (we'll get onto those shortly), but predominantly they deliver a silky, glossy finish to the formula (and the results). "Ingredients ending with 'cone' or 'siloxane' indicate silicone as an ingredient, with common examples including: dimethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclohexasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane, phynl trimethicone and polysilicone," adds Dr Maruthappu.

What are the benefits of silicones in skincare?

Despite getting a lot of bad press, silicones aren't just filler ingredients thrown into skincare products for no good reason. "There are various forms of silicones which perform various roles in skincare products, including soothing and softening the skin (giving it a silky feeling), improving texture, increasing moisture levels and helping the skin to retain moisture," says Dr Maruthappu. "Silicones can also help wounds to heal and reduce scarring by increasing hydration, regulating growth factors to help regulate collagen synthesis and protecting against bacterial infection," she adds.

One of the main appeals of silicones is their benefits for the skin barrier. "Silicones are emollients, so they sit on top of the skin and keep moisture from evaporating from the skin, helping to preserve the health of the skin barrier," explains Ridah Syed, Senior Medical Aesthetician at Skinfluencer.

Why does silicone-containing skincare make for a good make-up base?

You are most likely to find silicones is skincare marketed towards make-up prep. Why? Because the benefits of silicones is the stuff that makes for a great make-up base. "Silicones have silky textures, so they can smooth the skin's surface texture and soften the appearance of fine lines," says Ridah. 

It's common to find silicones in day creams, sun creams and make-up primers (products you would typically apply before doing your make-up), as they create a smooth, hydrated base for foundation and other make-up.

What are the drawbacks of silicones in skincare?

It's important here not to poo-poo any of the negatives you see associated with silicones. Some of the concern is valid. "Silicone is hydrophobic, so it can make make-up removal more difficult as it repels water. Because of this, it's important to double cleanse the face to ensure all traces are removed to avoid pores clogging," says Dr Maruthappu. "Although silicones are non-comedogenic themselves, they can create a barrier that prevents make-up and dirt from being thoroughly cleansed away from the skin. If you are having issues with persistent breakouts, try giving silicones a miss from your routine to see if you notice an improvement," she adds.

Are silicones in skincare bad for the environment?

Silicones are widely considered to be a particularly eco-unfriendly skincare ingredient—but we want to be totally honest about this. Here at Marie Claire, we take sustainability very seriously and are always looking into the most recent research around the toll of ingredients on our planet. "Silicones are bioacclumative," says Dr Maruthappu. "This means they can contribute to environmental build-up." You see, despite the fact silicones are created from abundant natural resources (predominantly sand), they are not biodegradable—meaning when we rinse them down the drain, they remain in the water waste for a long period of time.

However, there is, in general, a lack of conclusive research into what the impact of silicone build up in water actually means. Over the years, there have been many studies into what rinsing silicones down the drain means for aquatic wildlife—and the jury is still out. While some research has concluded that, actually, the amount of silicones that end up in the ocean is too negligible to ever be considered toxic to wildlife, there have been limits put on silicone concentrations in wash-off skincare products within the EU. 

Our advice? As with all beauty products, be mindful of what you're buying and do your research first. While there's no such thing as a totally planet-friendly way to shop, it's always advisable to weigh up the footprint of your current beauty routine before buying anything new.

It's no secret by now that SPF is important. Whether it's the best sun cream, the best facial sunscreens or the best SPF moisturisers, you should always be applying it as the last step in your morning skincare routine.

But what about SPF in foundation? Lots of the best foundations and best primers come with added SPF protection, and we know a whole bunch of people who turn to such formulas for their daily SPF hit—but is it enough to really protect your skin from the sun?

Here at Marie Claire UK, we are all about being responsible when it comes to beauty. With so many different opinions out there, we always go straight to the experts for advice that we know we can trust. 

So, we contacted a range of dermatologists and make-up artists to find out all about whether SPF in foundation is really safe for your skin, or whether you're better off sticking to a separate sunscreen all together. Keep on scrolling for everything you need to know...

What does SPF do to make-up?

First things first, it's important to know what SPF really does to your make-up. We don't know about you, but we've always wondered if adding SPF to foundation changes the formula. As it turns out, adding it can have an effect.

"SPF traditionally changes the texture of foundation, and can cause the product to become thicker, chalkier and/or greasier, says CeraVe Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite. "However, technology has come a long way and textures have significantly improved, so finding a foundation with SPF that suits your skin tone and type should be easier." That being said, if you've found the perfect foundation formula, just beware that if you're looking to move to an SPF-containing formula, results will likely be different.

Does foundation with SPF in provide enough sun protection?

So, now that's out of the way, do foundations with SPF protect your skin from the sun? The short answer is no. "Theoretically, make-up in foundation should provide adequate sun protection, but unfortunately sun protection factors are determined based on a thick application of product, and realistically you would need a lot more foundation than is practical to apply," explains Granite.

Most dermatologists recommend applying two finger-lengths of SPF onto your face, and in order to get this from your foundation, you'd have to be applying layers and layers of product, which just isn't practical.

Ridah Syed, Senior Medical Aesthetician at Skinfluencer London, agrees. "Think about how much SPF you apply as a solo product. In many cases, people will not apply a similar amount of foundation. Instead, they will use foundation more sparingly which means they definitely won’t be getting the protection they need."

Should you wear a primer with SPF?

Alongside SPF in foundation, many brands have also started adding SPF to primers for added protection. Again, we find ourselves asking, is this really enough to keep our skin safe?

"SPF in primers helps to protect the skin, however, I always encourage using a separate SPF if sun damage is a main concern," says Rebecca Moore, National Senior Makeup Artist at NARS. "The important thing to remember is that using a primer with SPF 30 and a moisturiser with an SPF will not add together to create a higher SPF. The benefit of using two products with an SPF is that if you have missed an area with one of the products, the second should help to protect that area."

All in all, it's worth investing in a primer with SPF for added protection, but always make sure to apply your facial sunscreen first.

Should you apply a separate SPF under make-up?

So, even with all of these skincare and make-up hybrids on offer, you should still apply a separate SPF under your make-up. "Sunscreen should be the last step in your skincare routine and the first step before make-up," says Granite. "Think of sunscreen in make-up as icing on the cake."

It seems that Syed agrees. "In my opinion, you should always have a separate SPF, not one combined in a liquid foundation or moisturiser as they can be ineffective at offering full protection."

Should you wear SPF under make-up in the winter?

Some people think that SPF is just for summer, but in reality, SPF should be worn all year round. "SPF in make-up is better than no SPF at all, but it's still best to apply a separate SPF first all year long," says Granite. Even if the sun isn't shining, which let's face it, happens a lot in the UK, your facial sunscreen should still be the last step in your morning skincare routine.

The best SPF for under make-up

After hearing all of that, we were curious to hear what SPFs the experts recommended wearing under make-up. It's safe to say that we will be adding these to our baskets ASAP.

Many people believe that the secret to long-lasting make-up lies in the make-up products that they use. But what if we told you there's far more too it?

That's right, forget your best foundation, because this time it's all about your skincare routine. No, we're not talking about just whacking on your favourite moisturiser and hoping for the best, we're talking about tailoring your routine to your specific skin type and prepping the skin to help your make-up last all day.

As a beauty writer, I spend a big chunk of my working days speaking with make-up artists, and they all say the same thing: a great make-up look starts with expertly applied skincare. In fact, it's basically the secret to lit-from-within glow.

So, what goes into the art of skin prep? Well, that's where the experts come in. We've spoken to Rebecca Moore, NARS National Senior Makeup Artist and Ridah Syed, Senior Medical Aesthetician at Skinfluencer London all about how to prep skin before make-up, and it's a lot easier than you think.

Keep on scrolling for everything you need to know about the art of skin prep...

Is it important to prep skin before applying make-up?

The short answer? Absolutely. "Prepping the skin is the most important step in your make-up routine. Everything you do in this step will determine how your make-up will look, last and feel throughout the day. This is a great time to tackle any skin concerns such as dryness or excess oil," says Moore.

"It also helps to smooth the skin and minimise pores," adds Syed. "Overall, your make-up will look better and last longer."

So, let's get prepping.

What ingrediants should you use to prep the skin for make-up?

"I would recommend looking for products with hyaluronic acid and vitamin C," says Syed. "Hydrated skin equals glowing skin which makes a great canvas for make-up. For this reason, hyaluronic acid is your skin's best friend. It is a fabulous hydrating ingredient that will lock in moisture."

"For an additional glow, include vitamin C in your skincare routine, but be careful about which type of vitamin C you use. Generally speaking, oilier skin types can't handle high percentages."

Finally, make sure you're using a primer underneath your foundation. Syed recommends using one that contains silicones. "A primer with silicones in will generally give skin smoothness." So, if you want your foundation to glide onto the skin, Syed suggests using something like the Charlotte Tilbury Wonderglow Primer.

What products should you avoid when prepping the skin?

"The main thing to remember when doing your skincare routine is to make sure that you aren't using products that are too rich for the make-up you are using. If you do, you may find your make-up product 'rolling' and the make-up will not sit right on the skin," says Moore. Instead, make sure you are choosing lighter products that will sink into the skin and sit nicely under foundation.

"Another thing to keep an eye out for is using the correct skincare products for your skin type," adds Moore. "This will help the make-up sit better and have a longer lasting wear throughout the day." So, if you have dry skin, you can get away with more hydrating products, whereas those of you with oily skin might want to opt for mattifying moisturisers and primers to keep shine at bay and help your make-up to last longer. As Moore says, "The wrong skincare could promote excess oil or exaggerate dryness."

How to prep the skin for make-up

Now that we've gathered that skin prep is important, how exactly should you go about doing it? "Using skincare like serums and moisturisers are great for prepping the skin. Use a generous amount and massage it into the skin. Treat it like a mini facial for yourself. This will make sure for a plump hydrating canvas," says Moore.

Do that skin prep mistakes become a thing of the past, we asked Syed exactly how to prep your skin step by step.

Step 1

"The first thing you need to do is make sure the skin is nice and smooth, so try and exfoliate after you cleanse. Do not use a harsh exfoliant that will strip or dehydrate the skin, something such as the ZO Skin Health Exfoliating Polish is a great choice."

Step 2

Then, Syed says to ensure that the skin is hydrated . "This can be easily achieved using hyaluronic acid, and I love the iS Clinical's Hydracool Serum."

Step 3

An additional step that isn't necessary (but feels great) is to use cryoglobes to really allow the hyaluronic acid to sink into the skin. Not only do they feel super refreshing and boost glow, but they can help to reduce puffiness first thing in the morning.

Step 4

The fourth step is vitamin C. "This will give your face a nice glow, but the vitamin C you choose should be suitable for your skin type. I use the iS Clinical's Pro-Heal Serum," adds Ryed.

Step 5

Finish with a moisturiser that helps to not only hydrate the skin but will also repair the skin's barrier function, and finally, don't forget SPF!

Throughout my career, I've interviewed many skin experts and make-up artists, and one of the most common pieces of advice I hear is that the secret to making your make-up base look good is in skin prep. You can have the very best foundation to hand, but if you're not giving your skin the very best skincare ingredients, your base can only work so hard. And that's why serum foundations are such a game-changer.

Containing a plethora of skin-loving ingredients, serum foundations tend to be skincare-infused, resulting in a healthy, natural-looking base. And as a bit of a foundation-phobe, I'm big into serum foundations. Dominic Skinner, Global Senior Artist at MAC explains, "Using a foundation that contains high levels of skincare ingredients means that you are not only getting the benefit of coverage and an even-looking skin tone, but it also means your skin is benefitting, too. Over time, the skincare ingredients will help make your skin look and feel better."

Slightly different from tinted moisturisers, serum foundations tend to be lightweight and don't just contain hydrating skincare ingredients. In fact, the calibre of ingredients in some serum foundations is really impressive. As someone with combination skin, I often find foundations for oily skin too mattifying and foundations for dry skin too greasy, but serum foundations fit just right. 

They're great for busy people, too. While we would never recommend skipping your skincare routine (it is, of course, the basis of any beauty routine), if you struggle to work actives into your routine, the right serum foundation can help keep your skin ticking over. "If you struggle to fit in a good skincare routine into your day, then having active ingredients in your foundation means you're still treating your skin to routine," adds Skinner.

And the truth is, I've known about the magic of serum foundations for a little while. After years of battling foundation formulas and never quite finding my perfect match, last year I turned to serum foundations. Since then, I've tried virtually every formula under the sun. I've tested them against longevity, finish, luxury and wearability. So, trust me when I say these are the best serum foundations out there.

1. Ilia Super Serum Skin Tint SPF30

I was absolutely thrilled when this serum foundation finally launched in the UK last year. I had heard wonderful things about it from US-based beauty editors, and I wasn't let down. The formula leaves skin looking dewy and plump, and it packs some impressive coverage. As somebody who doesn't like to wear foundation every day, this acts as a slightly heavier duty formula for when I'm heading out. I do find I need to powder my t-zone to prevent unwanted shine, but it's manageable. However, it's worth noting (particularly when shade matching), that the formula applies lighter than its dry-down. Upon application, the serum foundation will dry after around 60 seconds, and you'll notice it darken. It's a bit of a faff but it's certainly not enough to put me off wearing it.

2. Typology Tinted Serum

If I'm after a my-skin-but-better base, this is the product I turn to. It's noticeable enough that it evens out tone and adds a hint of lit-from-within glow, but it's lightweight enough to feel as though my skin is bare. With only six shades, I'll admit that the offering isn't great and should be improved. However, I have no problem dabbling between shades 1 and 2—I find them to be quite stretchable (and actually so, not like some of the other foundations out there that claim to be but aren't).

3. L'Oréal Paris True Match Nude Plumping Tinted Serum

With a hearty dose of hyaluronic acid, this serum foundation delivers on the hydration front. What's most impressive, perhaps, is that it doesn't leave the oily areas of my skin looking greasy or shiny—it sort of takes down the shine without sacrificing glow. The coverage is a little fuller than I would typically go for on a daily basis, but it also sheers out beautifully.

4. Bobbi Brown Intensive Serum Foundation SPF40

This serum foundation is one of the originals—and, in my opinion, best. It's recently had a bit of a shake up, formulation wise, and I'm in love with it. Now available with SPF40 (foundation shouldn't replace your SPF, it's just good as an extra), this foundation is dewy, blurring and packs in some impressive tone-evening coverage, too. Again, it's the sort of serum foundation I reach for when I want to look a bit more 'together'.

5. Rose Inc Skin Enhance Luminous Tinted Serum

There are few make-up launches that I deem impressive enough for me to actually create space in my everyday make-up bag for them—but this serum foundation was one of them. The formula is made up of small balls of pigment suspended in a refreshing, cooling and hydrating skincare formula. The finish? A natural-looking, sheered out coverage that will leave people thinking your skin just looks that good naturally.

6. KVD Beauty Good Apple Full-Coverage Serum Foundation

Serum foundations aren't all barely-there finishes and dewy glow. In fact, if you like your foundation to have a lightweight feel but for it to also pack some serious coverage, this one's for you. It feels almost impossibly light on the skin but delivers a camouflaging result, leaving pores, blemishes and pigmentation basically invisible.

7. MAC Studio Waterweight SPF30 Foundation

This foundation is called Waterweight for a reason. The formula is water based, meaning the overall texture is runny, light and hydrating. One layer will deliver a beautifully light–medium coverage, but for when you want your base to work a bit harder, it layers beautifully.

Exfoliating socks are a non-negotiable for me. After months of wearing the best ankle boots, when you want to switch to wearing summer sandals but your feet aren't quite presentable yet, they are the best thing for it. As you'll see below, I put these handy socks to the test a couple of years ago, and I've been using them ever since.

I used to have cracked heels and corns on my toes (see pictures below) that no amount of scrubbing with a pumice stone would get rid of. I know how important it is to exfoliate your feet, but I didn't want to fork out for a weekly pedicure at one of the best nail salons in London. So I turned to Footner exfoliating socks to give myself a pedicure at-home. "No matter whether you use peels, foot scrubs, or exfoliating washes, exfoliation is important," explains Marion Yao, a Podiatric Practitioner at the Harley Street Foot & Nail Clinic. "As it helps remove dry, hard skin. The dryness can cause cracks in the skin and lead to infections, such as fungal infections because these cracks can trap dirt and open up."

Here's everything you need to know about them.

What are exfoliating socks?

They are basically plastic socks containing a special solution that will help break down dead skin over time. This special solution is made up of a mixture of glycolic acid, mandelic acid and lactic acid. You might recognise some of these ingredients from your skincare routine. Each of them is an exfoliating acid that works on nibbling away at dead skin cells.

"Glycolic acid breaks up the outer layers of skin cells, which causes a peeling effect," explains Yao. "It also helps retain moisture within the skin, preventing the skin from drying out. Both of these effects can make the skin smoother and more even. Mandelic acid helps increase cell turnover and promotes the exfoliation of dead skin cells, which leaves the skin smoother and fuller and can also clear up pigmentation. And lactic acid can also be found in the outer layers of the skin and helps loosen its bonds to dead skin cells, which aids exfoliation."

How do exfoliating socks work?

Firstly, you'll need to soak your feet in water, because that helps with the exfoliating process (damp skin means the product will be absorbed better), so if you're binging on Netflix, that's a perfect time to do it. Do that for at least 10 minutes.

After that, pat them dry. Using scissors open the top and slip your feet into the socks. Wear them for an hour, before removing them and rinsing your feet with warm water. Then chuck the socks in the bin.

It's important to know you won't see results straight away, once the product soaks into your skin, you have to wait for the peeling process to start naturally, which can take a few days.

Yao agrees, "The peels take time to remove dryness and calluses. You will not see instant results, and it can take a few days to up to several weeks for the skin to completely peel and for your feet to become softer and less dry. Unfortunately, these peels are not great for deep and thick calluses, as they can only remove the top layers of the skin and do not penetrate to deeper layers. They are excellent at removing superficial skin, but I would leave thicker skin issues for the professionals, like a podiatrist."

How long does it take for the dry skin to peel?

The instructions say it takes five to seven days for the peeling process to start. After five days, I noticed what looked like an air bubble on my sole, and then I started to see the skin detaching itself a bit more every day.

To speed things up, you should soak your feet in water every day and avoid moisturising them.

"As the skin peels off, it may come off in bits and pieces, and this can look and feel unsightly," says Yao. "Using a foot or body scrub can even up the skin and make it look more appealing. It can also help remove the peeling skin and exfoliate it, making the feet even smoother. However, you don’t need to use one, and if you are not too annoyed by dragging dead skin or leaving it on the floor, in your slippers, or in your shoes, you are fine to simply leave it."

For me the whole thing took about 10 days, so bear that in mind if you want to do it before a holiday, as your feet won't look good in the process.

Who can use exfoliating socks?

It doesn't matter how little or how dry your feet are, these will get rid of any dead skin. They're one size fits all; I'm a size three so thought they would be too big, but it wasn't a problem. The skin is delicate after you use the socks though, so sunbathing isn't recommended.

If you're pregnant steer clear, and wait until you've given birth. Also if you suffer from any skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis or psoriasis, give this a miss. Your skin is likely to be too sensitive. Also, it's not recommended if you're diabetic either.

How long do the results last? 

Results of the exfoliating socks may vary a little depending on the brand, but I found my feet looked super smooth for about a month, and it took a little longer than that for hard skin to come back (it will take longer if you wear socks as the skin will be protected).

Most brands tell you to avoid using them for three weeks after the last use as skin will be sensitive due to the alcohol content in the formula, and generally speaking they recommend you repeating the process every two to three months.

I've only just done this, so obviously my feet are still looking great, but the instructions seem to advise to do this every two to three months, depending on how quickly your feet get dry again. And you need to leave it at least three weeks between treatments because your skin will still be sensitive.

Best exfoliating socks

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Are exfoliating socks safe?

I spoke to Dina Gohil, from DG Podiatrist, about what she thinks of the at-home foot softening treatment. "Exfoliating socks are a great home treatment that's easy to enjoy and people with callus do see results. They are on the whole safe to use however if you are diabetic, pregnant, have sensitive skin, or have any other medical conditions it would be advised to check with your Podiatrist or GP first."

How can you avoid getting dry hard feet and calluses going forward?

Whilst the exfoliating socks are extremely satisfying, it would be much easier if we didn't have hard feet to begin with. So we asked Gohil what we can do to keep our feet smooth.

• A good foot cream, with urea in it, will really penetrate into your epidermis which will help bring flexibility and hydration to your skin and reduce hard skin and build-up
• Check that your shoes are the right fit for you, as this can actually be a key reason why you are getting hard skin in the first place
• Dry your feet thoroughly after a shower or bath - water can diminish the natural oils on your skin causing them to dry out faster
• Make sure to keep hydrated - water is such a game-changer
• Wear the right type of socks to help balance the temperature of your feet, the happier they are the less moisture is lost

Feet exfoliating products

If you're still unsure about the foot exfoliating socks, then here are a few more products I rate for dry, cracked feet, from foot scrubs to leave-in masks.

Whether you’re a long-time skincare enthusiast or a complete novice, nailing the perfect skincare routine can feel like a challenge. Perhaps you’ve spent lots of money on different products while irritating your skin in the process or are unsure of where to even start.

If this sounds familiar it might be time to get back to basics with a simple skincare routine containing effective but gentle ingredients. For an expert take, we spoke to Dr Kemi Fabusiwa – a skincare expert and NHS junior doctor – to ask which active ingredients are best for good hydration, brightness and skin refinement.

The best active ingredients to add to a simple skincare routine

Hyaluronic acid

First up is every dermatologist’s favourite ingredient, hyaluronic acid. Dr Fabusiwa advises adding in this key humectant to your routine to hydrate the skin barrier and combat irritation caused by our other ingredients. “Hyaluronic acid is a humectant: a water-based hydrator that helps to draw water in from the environment and hold it onto the skin’s surface,” explains Dr Fabusiwa. “As we age, the skin’s natural levels of hyaluronic acid begin to deplete. The sun and other external aggressors also reduce levels of this important hydrator”. But by adding it topically into your routine, you can top up your natural levels of hyaluronic acid and give the skin a softer, more supple look and feel.

Polyhydroxy acids

Dr Fabusiwa advises introducing gently exfoliating ingredients to help moisture penetrate the skin more effectively while removing dead skin cells that can make the complexion appear dull. “Polyhydroxy acids are part of the family of exfoliating acids. They are larger in molecular size than alpha-hydroxy acids which means they can exfoliate without penetrating so deeply within the skin, giving you a kinder exfoliating experience with less irritating side effects”.

Salicylic acid

For congested, blemish-prone skin, Dr Fabusiwa also recommends adding exfoliants such as salicylic acid. “Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that helps to remove excess oil that is trapping dirt, bacteria and dead skin cells within the skin. It’s a powerful ingredient, effective at decongesting the pores”. It’s often formulated alongside other ingredients such as ceramides and niacinamide to help prevent any dryness that might arise as a side effect.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide, says Dr Fabusiwa, is another important multipurpose ingredient that you’ll find formulated with exfoliants to help reduce irritation. “Niacinamide helps to restore the skin’s barrier, reduce hyperpigmentation and reduce oil production and secretion,” she says.

“It works particularly well in conjunction with other ingredients such as retinol, salicylic acid and hyaluronic acid to contribute to overall skin health”.

So, with Dr Fabusiwa’s advice in mind, we’ve created a simple four-step routine from Superdrug’s Me+ range, full of skin-boosting active ingredients and moisture-retaining humectants.

1. Your four-step skincare routine for dry skin

Begin your morning skincare routine with a cleanser formulated with water-retaining ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and niacinamide. This will help to protect the skin’s natural barrier and retain water throughout the day while removing impurities from the skin. Following Dr Fabusiwa’s advice, you can then add an exfoliating step with a toner formulated with Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA). This will remove dead skin cells, reduce pore size and help the skin absorb hydration. End your routine with a good dose of moisture with a hyaluronic acid serum and ceramide-rich moisturiser which will help to strengthen your skin barrier and leave the complexion feeling smooth and dewy.

Step one: Cleanse

Step two: Tone

Step three: Serum

Step four: Moisturise

2. Your four-step skincare routine for dull skin

If your skin is looking a little dull and lacklustre, you need a simple routine aimed at brightening and rejuvenating it. As Dr Fabusiwa recommends, a cleanser containing a decongesting exfoliant such as salicylic acid balanced with ceramides will help to sweep away dead skin cells without disrupting the skin barrier. Follow this with a gentle toner also containing salicylic acid and a hydrating serum with niacinamide and zinc to refine skin tone and reduce shine. If you feel like you need a little boost around the eyes, a cream formulated with caffeine should instantly brighten the area and leave you feeling ready for the day.

Step one: Cleanse

Step two: Tone

Step three: Serum

Step four: Eye cream

3. Your four-step skincare routine for oily skin

If improving your skin texture is top of your agenda, a soothing yet exfoliating routine can help to get the results you want. Start with a very gentle cleanser derived from oat to effectively remove dirt and impurities without stripping moisture from the skin. Then, to exfoliate without causing any irritation, add a toner containing Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA) as per Dr Fabusiwa’s suggestion. Pat two to three drops of a gentle boosting serum formulated with salicylic acid and cica (centella Asiatica) onto the skin to unclog the pores, reduce blemishes and calm the complexion. A final layer of moisturiser containing niacinamide and hyaluronic acid will brighten and balance the skin.

Step one: Cleanse

Step two: Tone

Step three: Serum

Step four: Moisturise

For more information and to discover the Me+ range, visit Superdrug

Throughout my 20s – and, indeed, into my 30s – I’ve suffered from adult acne and have searched high and low for the best acne treatments. Ranging from mild and sporadic outbreaks to severe and cystic never-leaving-the-house-again spots, it’s been quite the ride. Sometimes, I’ve managed to escape with just a couple of hormonal blemishes dotted around my mouth (and covered in the thickest concealer known to man – thank you, Nars), but more often than not, my skin looks congested and red, with painful pustules and hard lumps that build up beneath the surface of the skin. It’s left me feeling embarrassed and sad, isolated and ashamed – and, of course, covered in scars. 

At times, it’s felt like I’ve tried everything – I’ve been on antibiotics and prescribed all sorts of topical lotions and creams by my GP. Then, during the first Covid 19 lockdown in 2020, when I was no longer commuting on busy trains, living in the city and caking on a full face of make-up every day, my skin *finally* started to clear. I swore by The Ordinary’s Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% water-based serum and kept my skincare routine stripped back and as simple as possible. 

But when I then decided to come off the contraceptive pill early last year, the acne flare-ups started becoming more and more frequent. Yes, post-pill acne is a thing. And I knew something needed to change.

Retinoid for acne

Now, when it comes to skincare, I tend to stick to the basics (cleanse, moisturise, SPF) – partly because I don’t want to aggravate my skin further, but partly because serums and oils containing active ingredients – particularly retinol – always leave me feeling rather confused.

A couple of friends suggested trialling Skin+Me – a personalised treatment plan, prescribed by a dermatologist online. And, at this point, I was willing to give anything a try. I eagerly filled out the online skin consultation, which asks you what your skin goals are, your age, gender, your skin type, skin tone and a range of other questions. I also had to send in some bare-faced pictures of my skin and then patiently wait for a treatment plan to arrive in my inbox.

Based on the photos and the answers I gave in my consultation, the pharmacist confirmed I have acne and prescribed me a ‘Daily Doser’ treatment to use every evening after cleansing, and before moisturising. 

When I looked into the ingredients I was surprised to see Tretinoin – a retinoid – listed, and I wondered if retinoids (and active ingredients in general) might be the key for treating my acne….

What actually are retinoids and how are they different to retinol?

“Retinol is a retinoid, which is a class of compounds derived from vitamin A,” explains Dr Hayley Leeman, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. “Retinoids is an umbrella term to describe retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoid acid. Retinoic acid is the most potent and is the one topical treatment, which has been shown in the medical literature to treat fine lines and photoaging. In the UK, retinoid acid requires a prescription and is commonly prescribed as tretinoin cream. While the other three retinoids (retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde) can all be found in over-the-counter products, they are significantly less potent and do not have the same supporting evidence or scientific data.”

Can retinol help acne?

Turns out, retinol can help treat acne. But, as Dr Leeman reminds me, tretinoin is not a retinol. “Tretinoin is retinoid acid and retinol is two conversions away from retinoid acid in the pathway,” she says.

“In acne, retinoids often help to reduce inflammation, normalise the hair follicle cell life and reduce sebum production. Retinoids also regulate the amount of keratin being produced by your skin and prevent dead skin cells from sticking together. For acne, the recommended retinoid would be adapalene however tretinoin cream can also be very helpful.”

The Dos & Don’ts of using Retinoids

Do:

• Save your money (and your skin) and only use a pea-sized amount for the entire face – a little goes a long way.
• Use retinoids at night to avoid any direct sun exposure. “This allows time for the product to absorb into the skin,” says Dr Leeman. 
• Start slowly and increase the frequency of application. “Tolerated retinoids can induce significant local irritation initially so start by applying the cream twice a week and build up to using nightly, once your skin has adjusted,” adds Dr Leeman. 
• Use Vaseline to protect the corners of your eyes, mouth and base of your nose – especially if you have sensitive skin.
• Dilute the retinol or tretinoin by mixing it with your moisturiser at night if you are unable to tolerate the irritation despite implementing the above measures.
• Wear regular sunscreen as you may become more photosensitive.
• Wash your hands after applying retinoid so you do not spread this to sensitive areas when you later rub your eyes.

Don’t:

• Have facial waxes without thorough consultation. “Your skin will be more fragile and you may develop erosions which could lead to scarring,” says Dr Leeman. “If you do not read this in time and this has already happened to you, my top tip is to apply La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Balm regularly.”
• Don’t start using retinoids right before an important or red carpet event – “initially you will very likely develop some redness and peeling of your skin,” says Dr Leeman.
• Don’t use retinol if you’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or trying to conceive. 
• Don’t be tempted to think more is more and apply a lot thinking it will work faster. It isn’t and it won’t. Don’t lather it on – use it sparingly.

The verdict

After religiously using prescription-strength tretinoin for eight weeks, I’m pleased to report my skin is definitely looking better, but it did go through a period (around weeks 2-5) where my acne got a lot worse. I’ve heard some people call this period ‘skin purging’ – where your skin quite literally ‘purges’ in reaction to using active ingredients.

Of course, prescription skin treatments can take time to work (I’m told it can take up to 8-16 weeks to really see visible results), so I’m trying to remain patient and hope that retinoids (and consistency) will continue to improve my skin. Who knows, maybe I’ll reach the grand old age of 32 and finally be acne free?

If you have never used skincare acids before it's easy to feel overwhelmed. Hyaluronic, malic, glycolic, salicylic.... it can feel like there is an infinite number of different acids for your skin and it's hard to know which you should use – and why.

But, no more: below we've outlined the big hitters and specific products containing acids that you should use for your skin type. It's not as complicated as you probably think (honest).

Most of the time, when people talk about skincare acids, they're talking about hydroxy acids. These are chemical exfoliants that gently lure the dead skin cells into coming off your skin.

So before we deep dive, it's helpful to understand – and explain – the three different types of acids that are out there...

1. Alpha Hydroxy Acids – AHA: Best for boosting glow. These are the most commonly used acids and the biggest family of acids in skincare. AHAs include glycolic, citric, mandelic, malic, tartaric and lactic. They exfoliate the skin and stimulate collagen.

2. Beta Hydroxy Acid – BHA (There is only one BHA, which is salicylic acid): Best for breakouts or acne. Like AHAs, beta hydroxy acid also acts as an exfoliant – increasing the shedding of dead skin cells. 

3. Polyhydroxy Acid – PHA: Best for those with sensitive skin, who want the results without the potential for irritation, polyhydroxy acids are often called the 'next generation' of acid exfoliants because – unlike AHAs and BHA – they have multiple hydroxy groups on the one molecule. PHA's allow for slower and more gradual penetration and include the likes of gluconolactone, lactobionic and maltobionic.

The best skincare acids to add to your regime 

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is best for those with blemishes and breakouts. "Salicylic acid, also known as Beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) is used for acne-prone skin because it can penetrate inside the pores and unclog them of dirt, excess oil, dead skin cells and other debris," explains Dr Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist at Dermasurge Clinic.

Not only is it able to break down the things that clog your pores, it's also a great anti-inflammatory agent, which is why you'll often find it in spot gels and acne treatments.

"Salicylic acid helps to treat acne, soothes irritated skin and reduces redness. It can also help resurface skin texture, allowing for a smoother complexion," adds Dr Injibar.

Glycolic acid

An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA), glycolic acid is derived from sugarcane and one of the most popular chemical exfoliants used in peels and toners.

"Glycolic acid is part of the range of fruit acids (AHA) and exfoliates dead skin cells to improve the healthy turnover of skin," explains Dr Injibar. "This makes it one of the most effective anti-ageing ingredients, making the skin look healthier, younger and tighter. It can also help with superficial pigmentation, boost collagen production in the skin and make rough skin appear smoother."

Glycolic acid is also one of the smallest molecules of the alpha-hydroxy acid family, adds Mark Curry, co-founder of The Inkey List, "meaning it is water soluble and penetrates deeply into the skin."

Sensitive skin types may find this one a bit irritating or harsh on the skin, so always introduce it into your regime gradually and in a small concentration first. Also, glycolic acid does increase sun sensitivity, so it's so important to use an SPF while using glycolic acid to prevent any sun damage.

Hyaluronic acid

Unlike the other acids on this list, it's worth noting that hyaluronic acid isn't exfoliating. Often cited by skincare experts as the hydrating hero, hyaluronic acid is known for its incredible ability to hold over 1,000 times its own weight in water. A substance that's naturally present in the body (particularly the eyes and joints), it's also a humectant, so draws moisture to the skin from the environment.

Hyaluronic acid serums are one of the most popular methods of hydrating the skin, and the plumping effect makes them a great anti-ager. It's also used in non-permanent lip fillers.

Citric acid

You'll recognise the name from your favourite fruits, but citric acid is also used in many skincare products for gentle exfoliation and skin cell turnover – it's why a lot of at-home face peels smell like oranges. Extracted from citrus fruits such as lemons, limes, oranges, and grapefruits, citric acid is also in the alpha-hydroxy acid group. 

"Citric acid is another AHA and is generally considered safe for all skin types," says Dr Ross Perry, medical director of Cosmedics skin clinics. "Its seen as safe for most skin types, excluding those with overly sensitive skin. A great exfoliator, which helps to unclog pores and even out skin tone, citric acid contains numerous antioxidant properties unlike other acids which help with environmental damage to the skin, boost skin firmness and improve skin elasticity."

Lactic acid

"Lactic acid is also part of the range of fruit acids (AHA), but is one of the larger molecules so it stays mostly on the outer layers of the skin," says Dr Injibar. "Due to its unique structure which allows it to bind water within skin, it’s a hydrating alpha-hydroxy acid." 

It's equally water-soluble, says Curry; "our lactic acid comes from milk and fruit sugars. Staying on the outer layers of the skin, it unglues dead cells to reveal brighter, more even skin as well as provide additional moisture to the outer skin layers."

Lactic acid can help with superficial pigmentation and discolouration too, adds Dr Injibar, "as it aids skin resurfacing. Skin resurfacing can result in a brighter and smoother complexion, improving signs of sun damage, fine lines and surface wrinkles."

It's suitable for all skin types who want brighter, more even and hydrated skin – and often recommended as one of the FIRST exfoliating acid to choose if your skin is more sensitive.

Malic acid

Malic acid is probably the least well-known of the commonly used skincare ingredients and is more gentle on the AHA scale.

"Malic acid is also an AHA, which is heralded as a ‘natural exfoliator’," says Dr Injibar. "As it encourages cell turnover, it’s often used to smooth wrinkles and fine lines, improve rough skin texture, and reduce superficial pigmentation. Malic acid also helps boost the collagen production in the skin."

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid – also an AHA – is similar to glycolic acid and can be used to help prevent acne and also pigmentation. Thanks to its larger molecular structure, mandelic acid is a great choice for those with oily skin as the molecules can penetrate even the greasiest of skins. But, it doesn’t penetrate skin quite as deeply as glycolic acid, which means it's less irritating. 

"Mandelic acid is seen as one of the less harsh types of AHAs," adds Dr Perry, "which means it penetrates the skin at a slower rate, therefore causing less irritation. The benefits include: the ability to get rid of dead skin cells (so an excellent exfoliator), fast cell turnover, promotes collagen, helps keep excess oil at bay (so great for acne suffers) and has many anti-ageing benefits including softening fine lines, reducing sun damaged skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation."

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone (a PHA) is your go-to if you have super-sensitive or mature skin, and can’t tolerate the irritation that can come from AHAs and BHAs. And, it's a great multi-tasker.

"Gluconolactone is a mild exfoliator which is seen as an alternative to AHAs and BHA’s which can be a little harsh on those with sensitive skin," says Dr Perry. "In terms of the benefits, it works to get rid of dead skin cells from the top layer to leave a smoother, brighter complexion. It can also help to get rid of excess oil and lock in moisture whilst also acting as a barrier against environmental factors. Like most exfoliators, you should aim to use at least twice of week."

Consider your crash course in skincare acids, complete.

Hyaluronic acid (also known as ‘HA’) is one of those ingredients that you see plastered all over product packaging and hear dermatologists wax lyrical about. And for very good reason. Perfect for people with dehydrated or dry skin, there’s pretty much nothing else out there that can help boost moisture levels quite like hyaluronic acid. 

And don't be put off by the word ‘acid’—hyaluronic acid isn't like other acids for skin. While other skincare acids typically have exfoliating properties, hyaluronic acid does nothing of the sort.

What is hyaluronic acid?

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of your body’s connective tissue that maintains the skin’s strength and elasticity. Around 50% of it is found in our skin. 

Everyone sings its praises because “it is a water magnet, holding 1,000 times its weight in water and draws hydration into the skin,” says skin doctor and cosmetic formulator at SkincarebyDrV, Dr Vanita Rattan. 

“It’s a naturally occurring group of sugar molecules, or glycosaminoglycan, found in the connective tissues of the body, such as in the eyes and joints,” adds aesthetics nurse and independent prescriber, Nina Prisk at Update Aesthetics. “It’s a vital component of our skin and the jelly-like substance works to cushion and lubricate our joints and aids repair after injuries have occurred. It’s known for its ability to attract and retain moisture. However, over time the body’s natural stores of hyaluronic acid decline.”

As we age, the natural hyaluronic acid levels in our skin decrease—which is why hyaluronic acid is used in skin care products. “It’s known as a humectant, which means that it’s something that helps the skin to hold on to water,” says Prisk. “It helps to hydrate the outer layers of the skin, and in doing so improve its appearance and texture.”

Mostly found in the beauty products for mature skin and the best moisturisers for dry skin, it’s also a common ingredient in the best night creams. And quickly becoming a preventative treatment and skin staple for younger people looking to stave off the effects of ageing for as long as possible.

Continuous use of HA ensures you retain moisture and elasticity in your skin, which will help if you’re worried about fine lines or dull skin. “It helps reduce the visibility of fine lines and wrinkles while retaining moisture in the skin, creating a plumping effect. It keeps skin in peak health, allowing it to defend itself from environmental aggressors better,” says Dr Rattan. Hyaluronic acid can also be injected directly, in what's known as dermal fillers, into the skin to help fill and plump. (N.B., this is very different to botox.)

When should you use hyaluronic acid within a skincare routine?

If your skin is dehydrated, hyaluronic acid may be a good addition to your skincare routine. “I would usually advise using a moisturiser or serum containing hyaluronic acid twice a day after cleansing and exfoliating,” says Prisk. “In the morning it will help to add moisture throughout the day, and in the evening to replenish the moisture that has been lost during the day.”

Dr Rattan agrees: “Ideally, you want a moisturiser which contains hyaluronic acid in it. Its time consuming and more expensive to do hyaluronic acid as a separate step.”

But, if you want a quick boost of hydration, make sure to use it *before* you apply your normal moisturiser. Why? Hyaluronic acid needs to sit underneath something wet because it acts like a sponge and therefore needs something to cling on to. 

“If you’re going to use hyaluronic acid serum separately, ensure you are using a fatty moisturiser on top, otherwise your skin can feel incredibly dry,” explains Dr Rattan. “After applying hyaluronic acid serum to the skin, you’ve now got ‘water magnets’ in the skin to keep it plump. However, if you’re not applying a water-based emulsion (the fatty moisturiser) on top of the hyaluronic acid serum, then water may be drawn from deeper into the skin instead, to the surface. This is not what you want, as it will leave your skin feeling tight and dry. So, it’s essential that you always top up with a fatty moisturiser.” 

So, your morning routine might look like this: cleanse, HA serum, moisturiser then SPF. And, yes hyaluronic acid can be used every day – “or indeed twice a day,” says Prisk.

The best hyaluronic acid serums to add to your skincare routine

One of the best face serums you should use, hyaluronic acid serums are hero products because of their higher concentration of HA. Each one tends to be a clear, sticky liquid that absorbs super fast and creates a beautiful base for makeup. Because they are so lightweight as well, all skin types will benefit from introducing one into their routines and you can use one in conjunction with another targeted serum.

“I would say everybody needs a humectant in their skincare routine, especially in the winter,” says Dr Rattan. “This is because harsh winds, low humidity, dry indoor heat, and the cold can strip the skin of moisture. Hyaluronic acid is also great if you have dry, dull, or ageing skin as it can bring back the youthful, refreshed glow to your skin.”

Read on for our round-up of the best products containing the miracle ingredient...

“Have you had a facial or something?” a friend asked recently. “Your skin looks great. You’re glowing, in fact.”

“No, but I have been using some new products,” I replied, quietly pleased that someone else had noticed my results.  

My secret? I’d added a retinol treatment formulated with niacinamide to my skincare routine twice a week, coupled with a hyaluronic acid serum that I’d been using day and night.

With two small children, I’m always looking for ways to look fresher and brighter, and by using retinol, niacinamide, and hyaluronic acid over the past few months, I’ve noticed a big difference to my skin.

What is retinol?

If you’re unfamiliar, retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, so it works by accelerating skin cell turnover, leaving behind fresher skin cells on the surface. This means it can smooth the texture of the skin, improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, and even help to manage acne and active breakouts.  

“Retinol is a powerful way of increasing skin cell turnover – effectively the shedding of older, dead skin cells,” explains Dr Jonquille Chantrey, surgeon, international lecturer and beauty scientist. “This in turn leads to an improved skin quality—reducing skin roughness as well as having a positive effect on skin tone, hydration and preventing congestion and breakouts. It also increases skin firmness by stimulating collagen production”. 

I’ve been aware of retinol and its benefits on the skin for a long time but, as I’ve had a couple of babies in the past five years, it’s not always been suitable. (Retinol isn’t safe for use while pregnant or breastfeeding). But, with my body now my own again, I was keen to enjoy the transformative powers this super ingredient is so revered for while also balancing the needs of my sensitive skin. 

It's advised that retinol is introduced gently (once or twice a week in the evening initially) so the skin can build up tolerance. As it can also cause irritation, I’d been advised by a dermatologist to use it alongside humectants and moisturisers to keep my skin barrier happy. In essence, allowing me to enjoy the best of both worlds—calmness and rejuvenation. 

How I added retinol into my regime

So, with this advice firmly in my mind, I started to use a gentle cleanser on the days I knew I’d been applying retinol. I didn’t want to add anything else exfoliating or irritating to my skin. After this first step, I’d apply a very small pea-sized amount of retinol to my face, avoiding the eye area. It’s formulated with the ingredient niacinamide to balance the exfoliating action of retinol. Previously when I tried retinol, I found any associated irritation too much and stopped treatment immediately. This time, however, with the addition of the niacinamide, my skin better tolerated the retinol and allowed me to reap its longer-term benefits.

To explain more about how this works, I asked Dr Chantrey to break it down. “Depending on the formulation, niacinamide can have a broad number of mechanisms of action in the skin including antioxidant activity, enhancing epidermal barrier function, decreasing skin hyperpigmentation, reducing fine lines, decreasing redness, and improving skin elasticity. It can also work well with retinol to help to improve tolerance,” she says.

To further enhance my results, I’ve been following with a hyaluronic acid serum and moisturiser. While hyaluronic acid makes a great addition to any skincare routine, it works particularly well with retinol as it binds to water to retain moisture in the skin. 

Dr Chantrey explains in more detail: “An HA serum, which can also be layered and combined with other topical active ingredient products without being heavy or occlusive on the skin, can benefit the patient more holistically than just moisturisation alone,” says Dr Chantrey.  “Depending on the formulation, the increase in surface skin hydration can assist with the exfoliation associated with retinol”. 

Knowing how to counteract the drying side effects of retinol with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide has been a total game changer for my complexion. I’ve been able to use it twice a week without any downtime or associated irritation and really seen an improvement in the brightness and texture of my skin texture. 

My friend’s recent compliment showed just how well the addition of the new products is working and I can’t wait to see how it improves over the subsequent months. 

As someone who enjoys all things relating to skincare and beauty – and regularly writes about beauty for a living – I do occasionally wonder whether the universe is having a laugh when it comes to my skin. 

Simply because I’m pretty sure my skin has worn more labels than the entire front row of a London Fashion Week show. 

Where to start? Well, it’s oily, acne-prone and sensitive. I developed rosacea in my twenties (since it resembled acne, it took me years to get the correct diagnosis). Recently, I’ve started noticing pigmentation and fine lines – early signs of skin ageing. In fact, I’m confident the sebaceous glands in my nose are still my hardest-working body part… 

All of this is to highlight how over the years, I’ve been around the block and back again when it comes to using high-performing skincare ingredients to help deal with my many conditions. Retinol. Salicylic acid. Benzoyl peroxide. Ivermectin. Hyaluronic acid. Squalane…

And now Niacinamide, which was suggested to me by someone who’d been using the stuff and told me it helped clear her spotty skin within months. I’ve been a convert since I started using it in July and it’s still my go-to skincare ingredient six months later.

While I’ve had way too many hopeful first dates with skincare 'miracle' ingredients that have ended in screaming red rashes, breakouts (and even tears), niacinamide has been a pleasant surprise. It’s gentle, not heavy or gloopy, and my skin tolerates it well.

It’s also, definitely, doing something. After incorporating the ingredient into my skincare regimen for several weeks, friends started complimenting my skin, marvelling at how “fresh" and “clear” my complexion had become. I’ve noticed it, too—my skin looks a lot brighter these days. 

I used to get hormonal breakouts in angry conflagrations across my cheeks, nose, chin and forehead; now, I have the occasional, lone pimple. My skin feels different when I touch it: soft, pleasant, lovely. Not greasy and rough like before.

So, what is the deal with niacinamide? Who should use it (and how?) Where can you find it? We asked consultant dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips, to give us the lowdown on this expert-approved ingredient… 

What is Niacinamide?

According to Dr Phillips, niacinamide, a water-soluble vitamin with anti-inflammatory properties, is known by a couple of other names: vitamin B3 and nicotinamide. 

“Niacinamide offers plenty of restorative perks and is a great option for those with acne-prone skin,” he explains. “It is an excellent ingredient that helps to calm inflammation, protect the skin barrier and reduce post-inflammatory pigmentation.”

Fun fact: this not-so-secret-weapon ingredient is so versatile that you’ll find it in products for the face, body and even hair. Niacinamide is often found in facial serums and boosters, in concentrations of up to 10 per cent.

Niacinamide is everywhere – cleansers, sheet masks, moisturisers, eye creams, body gels – and will continue to dominate our beauty cupboards in 2023. The ingredient is often combined with other expert-approved favourites, like hydrating hyaluronic acid or clarifying zinc, to target specific skin concerns.

What are the benefits of using Niacinamide?

This powerhouse ingredient can work to “reduce redness, clear blemishes and stop pigment formation, helping to improve complexion and even out skin tone,” according to Dr Phillips, who explains that one of the benefits of the ingredient is that it’s an “all-rounder” and can be used by people of all ages and skin types.

“One of the great things about niacinamide is that it is well tolerated, even for those with sensitive skin. This makes it a nice alternative for those whose skin may not be able to handle more traditional acne or brightening ingredients, like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids.” 

Not only can niacinamide be used by those with skin conditions like rosacea or psoriasis, studies indicate it can be effective in dissipating certain symptoms of those conditions, like blotchiness and flakiness. 

“Niacinamide works well with many other ingredients, which is why it’s easy to incorporate into your existing routine,” notes Dr Phillips. “Combining niacinamide’s oil-reducing prowess with salicylic acid’s ability to dissolve excess oil is a great way to help keep pores clear and breakouts at bay.”

Niacinamide can also be layered into your skincare regimen with complementary ingredients like vitamin C, an antioxidant known for its antioxidant and brightening benefits. And if you’ve heard you shouldn’t combine the two ingredients… that’s incorrect, a myth which links back to a since discredited study (pure forms of niacinamide and ascorbic acid, aka vitamin C, were combined at very high temperatures and formed an irritant, nicotinic acid).

“Modern products are formulated with stable forms of vitamin C and stored at room temperature, making this an unlikely reaction. If you are using two distinct products with these ingredients, wait 15 minutes between applications, or save one for morning use and the other for evening use,” says Dr Phillips. 

How do I use Niacinamide?

Niacinamide can be used “morning or night, perennially.” Since it “helps to brighten skin tone and reduce the appearance of pores,” Dr Phillips recommends applying it under make-up (it can act as a primer of sorts).  

“You should leave about a minute between each step of your skincare to prevent pilling and allow products to absorb into the skin. I would recommend waiting the same amount of time before starting your make-up routine,” he advises. 

Niacinamide won’t increase sun sensitivity (unlike retinol), so you can apply no matter the weather. Don’t forget to include an SPF 30 or higher daily (even in the winter months), to protect against harmful UV rays, notes Dr Phillips.

When first integrating niacinamide into your skincare regimen, especially if you have sensitive skin, experts recommend trying out at a lower concentration of the ingredient. 

If irritation, dryness or redness occurs from using niacinamide at a higher concentration, Dr Phillips explains that “switching to a lower potency (around four or five per cent) may be easier on your skin.”

Best Me+ products with Niacinamide

For more information and to discover the Me+ range, visit Superdrug

Assuming you applied your face cream this morning and it only ‘sort of’ did what you wanted it to, then you probably haven’t nailed whether you have dry or dehydrated skin. You see, there's no point in splurging on the best moisturiser for dry skin, when actually your skin is just dehydrated.

"You can actually see and feel a difference between dry and dehydrated skin," says Georgia Louise, La Mer Global Ambassador and facialist to Jennifer Aniston. "Dehydrated skin feels tight and looks dull with superficial fine lines. Dryness can show up as redness, flakes and an uneven texture."

Also important: dryness refers to a skin type. Dehydration is a temporary skin condition that can be reversed. Both dryness and dehydration require some nurturing of the skin barrier.

Here’s a breakdown of the key differences and what you can do to get your skin looking its healthiest again…

How to test if your skin is dehydrated or dry

Smile to test for dehydration —it really is that simple.

"If it feels tight, you are probably suffering from dehydrated skin," says Louise. "If you see dark circles and an uptick in fine lines, that’s also an indication."

To test for dryness, rub gently on one area of skin. "If you see loose skin cells in the form of flakes, or your face quickly turns red and becomes inflamed, then you likely have dry skin."

What is dry skin and how do you treat it?

Dry skin lacks oil because it produces less sebum than normal skin.

"As a result it lacks the lipids it needs to retain moisture, make rough skin feel smooth and keep the skin barrier strong," says Paula Begoun, founder of Paul’s Choice skincare.

This is particularly true of Black skin, which naturally has lower levels of lipids than white skin. What’s more, the dead cells on its surface don't slough off as quickly, which can give dark skin a greyish cast. Lactic acid is an exfoliator that is gentle enough to use on dry skin to eliminate this ashiness.

But be warned, there is such thing as exfoliating too often. "Avoid over exfoliating as this will strip skin of moisture," says Louise. "Once or twice a week should suffice."

When scanning the ingredients’ list in search for the best treatment, look for humectants like glycerin, which pull moisture from the atmosphere into the skin.

"Also important are repairing ceramides [a form of lipids or fat molecules]," says Begoun. "These fill in the cracks between skin cells by forming a protective layer that limits moisture loss and protects against damage from pollution."

In other words, ceramides give skin its plump, hydrated, balanced appearance. On labels, you’ll see them listed as ceramide AP, ceramide EOP, ceramide NG, ceramide NP, ceramide NS, phytosphingosine and sphingosine.

The best treatments for dry skin

What is dehydrated skin and how do you treat it?

Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, lacks water, not oil. "So you can have an oily complexion but still have dehydrated skin," says Louise.

Dehydration is caused by many factors, but the most common are low humidity, diet, hot showers and central heating, which sap skin of water and make it more sensitive during the harsh winter months.

Look for moisturisers with ingredients that prevent water loss. Hyaluronic acid is the gold standard as it is a sponge-like molecule that naturally attracts water. It then binds it to the collagen in your skin, giving your face back its dewiness.

The best treatments for dehydrated skin

The golden rule for both dry and dehydrated skin

Whether you have dry or dehydrated skin, the biggest mistake people make is incorrectly layering their skincare, says Louise.

"Always remember to layer your products in order," she says. "Start with the lightest first, like serums, and work your way to the heaviest in texture. These are your creams, oils and sunscreens."

Why is this important? Products designed for travelling into the deeper layers of skin, like serums, are made up of tiny molecules. Moisturiser, on the other hand, has larger molecules as it sits on the uppermost layers.

"A serum placed on top of moisturiser can’t penetrate through these larger molecules," she adds.

Trust us, follow these rules and your lacklustre skin will be back at its juiciest in no time.

Dry skin is the worst. Flaky bits appear out of nowhere and feels tight. And if it's really dry and sensitive, it can also be painful and sore. So using the best moisturiser for dry skin is super important to keep it comfortable and happy. Any old cream just won't cut it.

What causes dry skin? 

Dry skin signifies an issue with the skin barrier, so you need a cream that will help to replenish lost moisture and fill in the gaps to restore optimal function. Temporary dryness may be caused by a number of factors. Cold and dry weather, over-washing (think about your hands during the pandemic) and hormonal changes may all contribute to a complexion that feels tight and drier than the Sahara Desert. If your actual skin type is dry, however, it's most likely determined by your genetics or even an underlying skin condition.

What makes a moisturiser ideal for dry skin?

These differ vastly from the best moisturisers for oily skin. Applied after your best face serums, they're developed with ingredients like hyaluronic acid (which can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water), fortifying hydrators and soothing ingredients. These clever formulas can also attract moisture from the environment, drawing it deep into your dermis. They also defend your skin's protective barrier against environmental aggressors such as pollution, which then helps to lock in moisture. "Choose a good quality light moisturiser that soaks in readily, rather than just sitting on the surface of the skin," advises Dr Ross Perry, cosmetic doctor and managing director of Cosmedics Skin Clinics.

"Try a rich emollient cream as this will soften and smooth out any flakiness on a dry face whilst adding in that much-needed moisture boost," adds consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. "If in any doubt, speak to a dermatologist, GP or sales assistant to find the perfect moisturiser to suit your individual needs. There is no one size fits all when it comes to skincare."

But there's more to keeping your skin hydrated than simply applying moisturiser. One of the common causes of dry patches is dead cells adhering to your skin, so invest in the best cleanser that contains gentle exfoliating ingredients to break down the bonds holding those dead skin cells together. Follow this with the best toner for your dry complexion, which will boost hydration and your moisturiser will then sink into your skin better and be as effective as it possibly can.

And then when it comes to make-up, finish off with one of the best foundations for dry skin to keep your complexion looking healthy and glowing throughout the day. Scroll through for our round-up of the best moisturiser for dry skin to help you find one that suits your budget and lifestyle.

The best moisturisers for dry skin 2024 at a glance:

• Best moisturiser for dry, sensitive skin: Kate Somerville Recovery Cream | £69 at Lookfantastic 
• Best moisturiser for dry skin, blemish-prone skin: Byoma Moisturising Rich Cream | £13.99 at Boots
• Best affordable moisturiser for dry skin: CeraVe Moisturising Cream | £5 at Lookfantastic
• Best moisturiser for mature dry skin: Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 Lipid Replenishing Treatment | £148 at Lookfantastic 
• Best rich moisturiser for dry skin: Weleda Skin Food | £10.47 at Lookfantastic (was £14.95)
• Best celeb-approved moisturiser for dry skin: Augustinus Bader The Cream | £230 at Cult Beauty
• Best moisturiser for dry and dehydrated skin: Vichy Minéral 89 72Hr Hyaluronic Acid and Squalane Moisture Boosting Cream | £17.60 at Lookfantastic (was £22)
• Best moisturiser for dry and tight skin: Avène XeraCalm A.D. Lipid-Replenishing Balm Moisturiser for Dry, Itchy Skin | £17.60 at Lookfantastic (was £22)
• Best moisturiser for dry skin for barrier repair: Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream | £34.20 at Lookfantastic (was £38)

Here on the beauty desk at Marie Claire UK, it's safe to say we know a thing or two about what makes for the best moisturiser for dry skin. Over decades of combined experience in the beauty industry, we have tried and tested every moisturiser for dry skin out there.

This means we know what makes a moisturiser for dry skin worth your money. Below, we have rounded up the very best moisturisers for dry skin in existence. We have tested all of the below moisturisers over the years to find the best that help to tackle dry patches, tightness and the inevitable dullness that comes with parched skin. 

Our testing criteria 

How did we test these moisturisers? Well, we took everything into consideration, including the below. 

• Is the texture soothing but not too heavy?
• How long does the moisturiser hydrate the skin for?
• Is the price reflective of the results?
• Have ingredients been properly formulated to cater to dry skin needs?
• Does the formula put the skin barrier and a healthy barrier function first?

If the answers to the above questions tick all of the right boxes, you better believe it made it on our list.

Now, let's find your new moisturiser for dry skin, shall we?

Best moisturiser for dry skin 2024

1. Kate Somerville DeliKate Recovery Cream

Kate Somerville's skin clinic in LA is a hotspot for celebrities. She's their go-to for all things skin. You don't need to cross the Atlantic to get super hydrated and calm skin. This little tub of joy is ideal if you have slightly sensitive skin, it cocoons skin in moisture and instantly feels soothed. 

"We would trust A-list aesthetician Kate Somerville with our lives. I wouldn't dream of letting this moisturiser run out. Whenever my skin has a flare up from a particularly active product, it's the first thing I reach for in attempt to get my skin barrier back to full health." - Shannon Lawlor, Executive Beauty Editor

2. Byoma Moisturising Rich Cream

Byoma as a brand is all about caring for the skin barrier. It does that by formulating all of its products to contain a tri-ceramide complex. The fantastic thing about this cream is that for a mere £14, you can see your skin transform for the better within a couple of weeks. 

"My skin is oily and breakout-prone, but as part of my job testing and trialling products all day means my skin goes through periods of intense dryness. This daily cream helps take down the risk of my skin barrier becoming too badly damaged. Plus I love that it's accessible and affordable." - Shannon Lawlor, Executive Beauty Editor. 

3. CeraVe Moisturising Cream

CeraVe might not have the sexiest packaging, but boy does the dry skin cream inside make up for that. This purse-friendly cream is rich and nourishing, but not greasy at all. It uses this clever thing called MVE Delivery Technology that releases the much-needed ingredients throughout the day, exactly when you need them. It's also a great, gentle cream for dry or itchy skin conditions like eczema, as it supports a compromised skin barrier. 

"CeraVe says that you can use this on your body and your face, which won't suit everyone, but as someone with chronic dry skin that hits peak panic in winter I can assure you that your face will love it. It's also so incredibly affordable and I recommend it to everyone." - Katie Thomas, Senior Beauty Editor

4. SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2 Lipid Replenishment Skincare

If you have dry skin, its natural protection is weak and vulnerable, which makes it super fragile, which only worsens with age. It's crying out for a cream like this, which is water-based and rich in valuable lipids, natural extracts and essentials oils that cocoon the skin in softness. Expensive, yes, but also one of the best moisturisers you can get for really dry skin. 

"If money wasn't an object, I would recommend this cult face cream to everybody I know. It is, without doubt, the most effective moisturiser for dry skin in existence. No fuss, no frills, delivers on its promises." - Shannon Lawlor, Executive Beauty Editor

5. Weleda Skin Food

This cream is not for the faint-hearted. It is so thick and rich that it can be used all over the body, but some people think it makes the best moisturiser for super dry skin on the face too. You have been warned. 

"When my skin is crazy dry, I always turn to Skin Food. My skin drinks it up and I'm left looking really dewy. Plus my make-up goes on better, which is always a bonus. It's a cult multipurpose classic that counts Victoria Beckham among its fans. So I'm a good group." - Katie Thomas, Senior Beauty Editor

6. Augustinus Bader The Cream

You've probably seen Augustinus Bader on some of your favourite celebrities' Instagram feed. Victoria Beckham loves it, Diane Kruger can't get enough and Marie Claire is just as obsessed. The science behind it a special complex that has previously been used to heal burnt skin. It's been a total game-changer in the industry for good reason. 

"Gosh, this is such a smart product - a scientifically-proven skin healer. I know that the price won't suit everyone, but the research and science behind it is unparalleled. I am a huge fan and my skin loves it." - Katie Thomas, Senior Beauty Editor

7.  Vichy Mineral 89 72H Moisture Boosting Cream

If you're plagued by dehydration, as well as dryness (yes, there is a difference) then what you want is a cream that contains hydrating ingredients, as well as soothing. Thankully, this rich formula is packed full of hyaluronic acid to rehydrate and shea butter to nourish. It has a velvety texture to it that you will instantly fall in love with.

"This is the product that I have in my cupboard at all times. My skin is often both dry and dehydrated - so tight in some areas, flaky in others with lines of thirsty skin across my forehead - and this is the only thing that I have found that work on both. There's also the added bonus that it works beautifully as a base for make-up. Huzzah." - Katie Thomas, Senior Beuty Editor

8. Avène XeraCalm A.D. Lipid-Replenishing Balm Moisturiser for Dry, Itchy Skin

When skin is so dry that it feels tight, sore and itchy, this soothes and prevents further moisture-loss. It works particularly well in Winter when skin needs an extra boost and is ideal for those with irritable, sensitised skin.

 "I've never met a dermatologist who doesn't recommend Avène for stressed-out, dry skin. It's a French pharmacy must-have. It's also particularly good when you've gone a little overboard with retinol or other actives." - Shannon Lawlor, Executive Beauty Editor

9. Dr. Jart+ Ceramidin Cream 

When your skin is dry and tight, you want a cream to do two things. One - envelop the skin in moisture, making it feel more comfortable. Two - penetrate deep into the dermal layers to improve hydration from within. This cream does both.

"Seriously, every beauty editor I know absolutely adores this cream, because of how nourishing and effective it is. It's Korean skincare at its best." - Shannon Lawlor, Executive Beauty Editor

Knowing how to care for your skin correctly can be confusing, especially when it comes to hydration. You might wonder what moisturiser is best for your skin concerns, or if exfoliating actually makes dryness worse. Perhaps you’ve been keen to try the K-beauty trend of slugging but don’t know if it’s right for your skin type. 

And it's no wonder. The internet is a breeding ground for false information, concerning advice and skincare myths. So, to help separate the fact from the fiction, we spoke to Dr Kemi Fabusiwa – a skincare expert and NHS junior doctor. Here, she shares four common hydration myths and the knowledge she wants to arm you with for winter. Healthy, glowing skin here we come...

Hydration Myth 1: Exfoliation leads to drier skin

Exfoliation has a bad rep for making drier skin worse, but Dr Kemi Fabusiwa says that this isn’t true for all types of exfoliators. “If you have rough skin and a build-up of dead skin cells, then exfoliation may actually help you to remove the old skin cells that are preventing hydrating ingredients from penetrating deep into the skin,” she explains. “Consider using a gentle alpha-hydroxy acid such as lactic acid or mandelic acid to lift away the upper layer of dead and dying skin cells”. This should help your serum and moisturiser penetrate deeper into the dermis and give you that sought-after glow.

Hydration Myth 2: Slugging is a must for all skin types

From TikTok to Reddit, slugging is the Korean beauty trend that went viral due to its alleged ability to lock moisture into the skin overnight. “Slugging is the process of applying a thick layer of Vaseline – an 'occlusive' agent that helps to prevent trans-epidermal water loss – onto the skin,” says Dr Fabusiwa. 

“Whilst slugging can help those with extremely dry, eczema-prone skin, it goes without saying that it's not appropriate for all skin types – and definitely not oily acne-prone skin types. Slathering on such a thick occlusion can actually lead to congestion and blemish-prone skin”. If this sounds like you, opt for lightweight non-comedogenic moisturisers containing squalane or polyglutamic acid. 

Hydration Myth 3: The thicker the moisturiser the greater the hydration

“It's important to recognise that there are several different types of moisturisers – from humectants, to emollients, to occlusives,” advises Dr Fabusiwa. Each of these does slightly different things. Put simply, just because a product is thicker, doesn’t necessarily mean it will provide the best type of hydration. 

For instance, humectants such as hyaluronic acid add water to the epidermis, while occlusives such as Vaseline and marula oil help to prevent water loss by forming a protective film over the skin. Emollients, on the other hand, soften and condition the skin. This makes them particularly effective at improving dry patches and conditions such as eczema.

Hydration Myth 4: Hyaluronic acid should be applied to dry skin

If you’re finding that your hyaluronic acid serum isn’t giving you the hydration boost you were expecting, it could be because you’re applying it incorrectly. Yes, really. According to Dr Fabusiwa, hyaluronic acid should always be applied to damp and not dry skin. “Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that works by drawing water in from the environment. As such, if your skin is not damp, then hyaluronic acid will pull water from the lower layers of skin which may leave your skin feeling dehydrated.” 

Central heating, stress, and cold weather can all leave our skin looking a little dull and dry. But, by adding a few dermatologist-approved ingredients into your daily skincare routine, you can help to add some much-needed hydration to your complexion. Here skincare lover and NHS doctor Dr Kemi Fabusiwa reveals five star hydrating ingredients to use this winter, plus the products from Superdrug’s Me+ range to find them in.

The best 5 hydrating ingredients to add to your skincare routine

1. Hyaluronic Acid

Ask any skin expert, and they’ll suggest adding hyaluronic acid into a hydrating skincare regime. Why? “Hyaluronic Acid is a water-based humectant that is able to hold over 1,000 times its weight in water. This means that it binds onto the surface of the skin and helps to draw water in from the environment,” explains Dr Kemi Fabusiwa. It’s this ability to hold onto so much water, that makes it so effective at helping to hydrate the skin's barrier, plump the skin, and prevent irritation, Dr Fabusiwa continues. “Hyaluronic acid can benefit all of us, no matter what our skin concerns are”. 

A great way of adding this super humectant into your own skincare routine is with a serum. “Hyaluronic Acid does not react with other ingredients which means that you can layer it before other serums and before applying your moisturiser,” says Dr Fabusiwa. “It's most important to apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin so that it can hold onto that water”. 

2. Polyglutamic Acid

“Polyglutamic acid is another powerful hydrator,” says Dr Fabusiwa. “It’s a humectant just like hyaluronic acid but is able to hold onto even more water”. What’s more, it works for any skin type and does not irritate the skin when used alongside other active ingredients such as retinol or glycolic acid. 

This hydrating ingredient is used in a very similar way to hyaluronic acid, so expect to find it on the ingredients list of everyday serums and moisturisers. 

3. Ceramides

“Ceramides are one of the skin's natural moisturising factors. This means that it is already present in our skin's barrier,” says Dr Fabusiwa. When used topically, however, this lipid emollient helps to moisturise and strengthen the skin's barrier which has several benefits. Dr Fabusiwa explains: “Ceramides ability to lock in water helps to plump the skin, reduce irritation, and delay the first signs of ageing. It also helps to soothe and lubricate the skin by preventing trans-epidermal water loss”.

As ceramides have so many great skin-boosting benefits, you’ll find them in many skincare products such as cleansers and moisturisers. They’re also often paired with more active ingredients such as antioxidants and exfoliating AHAs and BHAs. This helps ceramides to be more readily absorbed by the skin.

4. Squalane

If you have an oily, blemish-prone skin type, you may worry about how to hydrate your skin without creating any further congestion. In this case, Dr Fabusiwa suggests using squalane. “This lightweight oil is non-comedogenic which means that it can sit on the surface of the skin, lubricating it without clogging your pores,” she explains. “Because it's so lightweight, it’s appropriate for most skin types and can help to rebalance the oil on your skin”. This helps to give the complexion a healthy glow without running the risk of exacerbating blemishes.

A great way of adding squalane into your regime is with an antioxidant serum. How so? While ingredients such as Vitamin C can help to defend the skin against environmental aggressors and reduce the appearance of dark spots, squalane will provide lightweight and long-lasting hydration. 

5. Niacinamide

“Niacinamide is a multi-function, multi-purpose ingredient that can be found in serums, moisturisers and toners,” says Dr Fabusiwa. “It also goes by the name Vitamin B3 and has a remarkable role in restoring the skin's barrier, reducing excess oil production, and dampening down inflammation”. But the benefits don’t end there, it can also be used to reduce skin conditions such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. 

By using a serum formulated with niacinamide every day, you can help to improve the overall appearance of your skin tone. You’ll often find it within formulations that contain complementary ingredients such as zinc, retinol, and hyaluronic acid.

For more information and to discover the full Me+ range, visit Superdrug

Hyaluronic Acid is the wonder ingredient revered by dermatologists and skincare experts for its skin-plumping, line-smoothing powers. But what exactly is it and how should you apply it for best results? To find out we asked Dr Kemi Fabusiwa, a skin expert and NHS junior doctor, to set the record straight. 

“Hyaluronic acid is a water-based humectant that is able to hold over 1,000 times its weight in water,” Dr Kemi Fabusiwa explains. “This means that it binds onto the surface of the skin and helps to draw water in from the environment.”

She says that it’s this ability to hold onto so much water that makes hyaluronic acid such a multi-functional ingredient with many skin benefits – from hydrating the protective barrier to plumping the skinand preventing irritation. Impressive, right?

But if there’s one thing that Dr Fabusiwa wants us to know about hyaluronic acid, it’s how to apply it. “Hyaluronic acid can be used both morning and night, but it’s best applied to cleansed, damp skin,” she says. “Hyaluronic acid is a powerful humectant that works by drawing water in from the environment,” she says. “If your skin is not damp, then hyaluronic acid will pull water from the lower layers of skin which may leave your skin feeling dehydrated”.

How to add hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine

So, now you know a little more about this wonder ingredient, you’re probably keen to give it a go. The good news is that there are plenty of ways to add it to your routine. “Because of its ability to hold onto water so effectively, hyaluronic acid can be found in many different cosmetics preparations such as face serums, hair serums and cleansers,” says Dr Fabusiwa.  From a gentle cleanse in the morning, to a hydrating sheet mask before a night out, here’s how you can start using it today...

The Cleanser

“As always, your cleanser should come first. Including hyaluronic acid in the first part of your routine helps to add hydration from the beginning,” says Dr Fabusiwa. “Hyaluronic acid can also be cosmetically prepared in a way for the hydration to remain on the skin for a significant amount of time – even after you wash off the product”. 

Fancy giving it a go? Superdrug’s Me+ cleanser is formulated to gently remove oil and impurities without stripping moisture from the skin. It also uses hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and ceramides to leave your skin feeling softer and smoother.

The Serum

A serum such as Superdrug’s Me+ Hydrating Booster is an effective way of adding hyaluronic acid into your routine. Formulated with 2% hyaluronic acid, it will give your skin a boost of moisture while helping with the appearance of dehydrated skin after just four weeks of use. 

So, where should a serum come in your routine? “Hyaluronic acid does not react with other ingredients which means that you can layer it before your other serums and before applying your moisturiser,” Dr Fabusiwa advises. Don’t forget to apply it to slightly damp skin for best results. 

The Sheet Mask

For instant hydration and dewiness, a sheet mask drenched in hyaluronic acid is your answer. This biodegradable option from Superdrug’s Me+ range is the perfect spa-night treatment or an ideal way to prep your skin before applying makeup. “Sheet masking is a relaxing way to add hydration into your skincare routine but will reap the same amount of benefit as a hyaluronic acid serum,” says Dr Fabusiwa.

She advises applying it after washing your face, allowing your skin to become almost dry but not completely. “Leave a little bit of moisture for the hyaluronic acid in the mask to pull water from. Once you've left your mask on for the desired amount of time, you can rub any residue into your skin and then follow up with your second serum or moisturiser”.  

The Hair Serum

If you thought that hyaluronic acid was just for the skin, think again. In fact, it can help to maintain healthy-looking hair when applied as a hydrating treatment. This Hyaluronic Acid Anti-Frizz Serum from the Me + range helps to reduce frizz and static while increasing smoothness and shine. For best results, apply a few drops when your hair is still damp.

For more information and to discover the full Me+ range, visit Superdrug

You can do all the facial massage. Use every trending serum. Follow a 10-step skincare routine down to the letter. But if you’re not taking care of your skin barrier? It could all mean nothing. That vital layer is so much more than the latest buzzword in beauty. It is the gatekeeper of your skin's overall health. It’s what keeps hydration in, damage out, and your products actually working. If you ignore it, you could be fuelling the very issues you’re trying to fix: breakouts, redness, dryness, dullness. So, if you’ve never thought about your skin barrier before, this is the moment to start.

Luckily, here on the Marie Claire beauty desk, we have years' worth of skincare knowledge and a black book of experts in our possession to help clear things up. Here's your ultimate skin barrier guide...

What exactly is your skin barrier?

"Most simply, it’s the outermost layer of skin and the part you can see," explains Francine Krenicki, VP of Product Development & Regulatory, StriVectin. "It acts like a shield, keeping the bad stuff from entering and the good stuff from leaving the skin. It’s made up of cells and lipids that work together to protect skin. And it’s responsible for making sure that water and electrolytes do not evaporate from skin."

There are three parts to your skin barrier:

• the microbiome - an ecosystem of organisms, which consists of good bacteria that help fight off bad bacteria (using microbiome-friendly skincare, like probiotics and prebiotics, help maintain the skin barrier function)
• the acid mantle - found under the microbiome. Its role is to keep the good stuff (aka moisture) in and the bad stuff out. It's called the acid mantle as it's slightly acid (a pH of around 5.5). When we overuse or overtreat with harsh products, it can disrupt the skin's microbiome and pH levels, which causes inflammation.
• lipid barrier - this lives under the acid mantle and is basically our skin's natural fats. The younger we are the more we have, which keep skin hydrated and plump. The older we get, the more the lipids decrease and skin gets drier.

You can see why the skin barrier vital. If your skin barrier is in good nick, your skin will feel soft and supple and will look clear and healthy. If it's not, then it will feel tight, itchy and uncomfortable and it will look flaky, red and shiny. It will really, really sensitive in other words. Dr Mary Sommerlad, Consultant Dermatologist, explains that different skin colours have different reactions too. "In white and olive skin tones, the skin may look redder," she says. "In brown and black skin tones the skin may appear darker than the original skin colour."

So if you've ever had a really bad flare up after using a certain product, or you've spent time in extreme weather, it's likely that your skin will have reacted, because your skin barrier has been compromised.

What does skin barrier damage look like?

It's important to note that the skin on your face is different from the skin on the rest of your body. It's less dense and a lot thinner. This means it's really, really easy to damage it.

"Most commonly barrier damage comes from stripping your skin of its natural oils with harsh cleansers, abrasive scrubbing and exfoliating, as well as acids," says Krenicki. We've all been there, eager to try out a new punchy product that promises brand new skin at the end of it. And afterwards we've paid the price, because we left it on a little too long or were too eager with our application. If you've ever had a bad reaction to a face peel or retinol, then you'll know the feeling.

There are other factors that can cause damage—internal factors. "Stress and hormones can also lead to an impaired barrier," adds Krenicki. "Studies also show that the intercellular lipids that are important to keep it intact and moist start to diminish significantly with age." Ah yes, every day that we get closer to the grave, our skin barrier isn't working as well as it should be.

How to repair your skin barrier

So what steps can we take to repair this delicate part of our bodies? Krenicki explains that the skin barrier is like a brick wall: "Each brick is a skin cell held in place with mortar or your skin’s natural lipids. When your skin is healthy this brick wall holds in your natural moisture and keeps out environmental aggressors like pollution and irritants." So in order to repair your skin barrier, you need to maintain the 'mortar'.

Dr Sommerlad, says: "Skin barrier repair involves removing the source of irritation. I recommend stripping your skin care routine right back to just essentials and avoid exfoliation and retinoids until the skin feels comfortable again."

She says that the time it takes to repair the skin barrier varies from person-to-person. "If you’re struggling to get your skin barrier back to normal after 4- 6 weeks I’d recommend seeing a dermatologist as you may have an allergy to something."

She recommends using product with particular ingredients too, 'Ceramides help restore the skin barrier, niacinamide has anti inflammatory properties and hyaluronic acid is great at rehydrating the skin.'

Here are a few ways to help repair your skin barrier:

• Look for formulas that are rich in ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and emollient oils which help replenish your skin’s natural lipids. Don't bother using retinols, AHAs or BHAs until your skin has calmed down.
• Be gentle when cleansing - use lukewarm water and formulas that are fragrance and soap-free. Avoid flannels and wipes on the face, stick with fingers or Muslin cloths which have lower friction. Don't go near abrasive scrubs.
• Always wear a facial SPF. Photodamage from blue light and the sun will further aggravate the skin.
• Maximise on moisture. Lasting hydration is key to a strong barrier. Apply a serum containing hyaluronic acid and a mosituriser day and night.
• Thermal water face mists can provide relief when used throughout the day. Keep one on your desk and use whenever you feel your skin needs it.

The best products to repair your skin barrier

Here's our roundup of the best products that will help repair your skin barrier...

You asked, she answered...

Of all the skin conditions that we speak to our readers about, it seems that eczema is the one that truly has most of you in a spin. Whether it's knowing the best eczema cream to soothe flare-ups, how it started or wanting to help identify triggers, so many that suffer from it need more answers. And lots of you want to know how to cure eczema permanently.

This is why, when we sat down with Dr Amélie Seghers, Consultant Dermatologist at The Clinic by Dr Maryam Zamani and author of Eczema: How To Ditch The Itch (£11.86 | Amazon), we asked her to play Agony Aunt to all of your eczema questions.

Your eczema questions answered

Q: Once you have eczema, can you ever really get rid of it? Or is it just a case of keeping the itch and flare-up at bay?

A: Eczema is a chronic condition; individuals with it have a genetic tendency so you cannot get rid of it. Sometimes people say they outgrow it but once you have had eczema in your life you are at risk to have another flare-up in your life again. It is control rather than cure, so the aim is to have as few flare-ups as possible.

Q: What's the best way to manage flare-ups? How can you control them and is there anything you can do more of / less of to prevent them?

A: The best action to prevent flare-ups is to use moisturisers because they make your skin barrier stronger and your skin less dry. But also, if you know your triggers, avoid them.

To manage flare-ups you really need to have a good skincare routine, such as gentle cleansers and hydrating moisturisers (for the whole body). On the active areas where there are patches of eczema, you can apply prescription creams which can be either steroid or non-steroid. For most people, this will be enough but if the treatment creams are not enough, there are many other options such as light therapy and oral treatments. These don’t come without side effects so if we can manage it with creams, this is preferred, and most of the time we can.

Q: Why does it keep returning? What causes flare-ups?

A: There are many reasons for this. It can keep returning because an individual will have triggers that are making their skin flare. There are over 20 triggers, which I go into detail about in my book. They include things like stress, friction, teething (for little children), change in climate, and long-haul flights. Sometimes it's just a culmination of a few different things. For example, you are tired, it’s just before you go on holiday, you have been working hard, you still have to pack, you are stressed about the last days at work and then you take a long-haul flight to another country with a different climate – this scenario may be enough to cause a flare because you have fatigue, long haul flights that dry out your skin, stress etc – everything together can trigger the skin to flare.

Q: What’s the most effective way to calm a flare-up without resorting to steroids?

A: It depends on the severity of eczema. If it is mild, e.g. very mild patches, you can still manage it with moisturisers but sometimes that won’t be enough. If you do not want to use steroids, you can use prescription creams that are non-steroid; these are called calcineurin inhibitors, such as Protopic or Elidel. You can discuss this with your doctor. They are an option if you don’t want to take any steroids, but they sometimes take a little longer to clear the skin and they are more expensive. If you have very extensive eczema over the body, you could also do light therapy, but not everyone gets better with light therapy.

Q: My son and husband have terrible eczema on their hands, how can you handle eczema in an area that's exposed all the time? 

A: Your hands are tricky because they come into contact with things the whole time. For example hand washing, washing dishes etc. I recommend wearing gloves to protect your hands when you do the washing up. Also, try to avoid too many alcoholic gels and avoid over-washing your hands. If you need to wash your hands, then make sure to moisturise them straight away afterwards. Another good tip is to go to sleep with moisturiser on and cotton gloves. If doing this with prescription creams you must discuss it with your doctor first because they become stronger under the gloves.

Q: What are the risks to your skin for long-term topical steroid use?

A: It’s more complex than just steroid use. There are different types of steroids – mild, moderate, potent and super potent. If using the mild one it’s obviously a lot safer than the super potent, although one area where you have to be careful with the mild steroid too is around the eyes. With long-term use (e.g. months to years as opposed to weeks) you may get acneiform lesions (nodule, papule, pustular or cysts), hair growth, atrophy of the skin (which presents itself as blood vessels being more clearly visible) in the area where you have been applying the cream. These are all quite rare, most of my patients don’t suffer from any of this, and sometimes when I see these symptoms – it is when individuals have been using the wrong creams in the wrong areas. Or when they haven’t followed the instructions to stop it.

Q: How can I deal with topical steroid withdrawal?

A: I think the worry about topical steroid withdrawal is more common than it actually is a problem. However, I would say if you were worried about this and are keen to come off, you can switch to Protopic which is a calcineurin inhibitor. Use this until it has completely cleared the skin and then you can still use it twice a week (what we call proactive treatment), but this is something to be discussed with your doctor.

Q: Every time I use a steroid it comes back worse, but it seems like all the doc will ever offer…

A: I think this is a case of an individual stopping the steroids too early when the inflammation is not completely under control, rather than the eczema coming back with a vengeance after using steroid cream. It’s comparable to a small fire - the flames may not be there but it’s still smouldering and can roar again very quickly. The impression may be that you have to use prescription cream the whole time, but in fact it was not a proper course. If a patient does not use any active creams when they have active eczema patches, it will get worse due to scratching (which is also one of the triggers). It’s a cycle and it can be hard to get out of. If an individual does not want to use steroids, there are other options, but I don’t advise using nothing, because the condition may just get worse. If it is severe the inflammation will not go away without any active treatment. There are maintenance treatments for improving the skin barrier or passive treatments (like moisturisers and cleansers) but you also have the active treatment (prescription creams) to get the inflammation under control.

Q: As an eczema sufferer, am I allowed to use retinol?

A: You are but you will have slightly more risk of irritation, so you should get your skin to a good state and have adequate facial moisturisers before you start with retinol. When you start with retinol you have to build up very slowly, for example twice a week first - then every other day, before using it daily (but some individuals will not tolerate it daily). Also, it is not a good idea to use retinol when you have active eczema, that will certainly cause irritation.

Q: Which skincare ingredients should I avoid?

A: As above, retinol is the one that always comes up, but it's not that can never use it but just be wary. You should avoid it when you have active eczema. It’s the same with certain ingredients that are used for chemical peels (either in-clinic or at home) because they can strip the natural moisturising in the skin and actually damage your skin barrier further. With sunscreens, people with eczema tend to do better with mineral sunscreen rather than chemical.

Q: Is there a better way to prep for the winter months? I find my skin is always better in summer...

A: To prepare for the winter months you might want to change your type of moisturiser, so in the summer you could be better with lighter lotions and in the winter, you might want to use a very rich moisturiser, or increase your moisturising from once a day to twice (or even more!) Also, if you have hand eczema you should wear gloves when it’s cold because the cold wind can trigger it.

Q: If I have been using steroids on my face, what can I do to improve that skin quality?

A: If you’ve been using steroids for two weeks, it’s not going to change your skin quality, but if it has been months you may want to switch to non-steroid creams, this must be discussed with your doctor first. Once your eczema is under control you could opt for a specific skincare regime that improves the quality of your skin such as a good moisturising cream and also potentially retinol (but not during active eczema).

Q: Do I need to avoid any foods etc that could be making it flare up?

A: Food and eczema are very complicated. I usually divide people into two groups – those who have a true food allergy, this is usually picked up when they are little (e.g. 6 months – 1yr). You don’t usually pick up a new food allergy in your 30s or 40s. You should obviously avoid the foods that you are allergic to as it will cause an eczema flare-up, as well as an allergic reaction. Then there's the second group, who don't have allergies but have an inflammatory diet with lots of processed foods. As you have an inflammatory condition, that's not ideal, as you put yourself in a more inflammatory state, which contributes to your eczema. Eating healthily is good for your general health, but can also help with your eczema. If you are very itchy because your eczema is very active you might want to avoid eating histamine-rich foods, things like tomatoes, strawberries, red wine, and fermented foods. It’s not that you are allergic, but when your eczema is active, these foods can make you itchier.

Q: Do you recommend the FODMAP checklist to identify triggers/ what are other common triggers?

A: The FODMAP checklist is not something I recommend to my patients. I always say that if you find certain foods make your skin worse, then avoid them but there is a difference between a true food allergy and intolerance or histamine-rich foods that can make your skin itchier. Other common triggers are discussed above - these can range from drooling to teething to stress to pollution to change in climate.

Q: How can you tell the difference between psoriasis and eczema?

A: Most of the time it’s quite clear. Both are chronic inflammatory conditions, although they present slightly differently. Psoriasis is more well-defined plaques with thicker scales and eczema is more ill-defined plaques with finer scales. Eczema also tends to affect the flexor aspect of the limbs, such as elbow folds and the back of the knees. Psoriasis tends to favour the outside e.g. the elbows or the knees themselves. Most of the time it’s quite clear clinically to identify a difference. Occasionally when it’s not so straightforward, we can take a biopsy, but it is rarely needed.

I'm more in the know now than I've ever been

Apparently, it started with me licking the crooks of my arms and my kneecaps.

I was about four or five years old and mum would notice me doing this every so often throughout the day. It was when I started going through spells of incessant scratching of the raised dry patches that she marched me to the doctors. And after a lot of back and forth, I was diagnosed with eczema.

Eczema on Black skin

The problem was that the look of the skin condition on Black skin is completely different on Caucasian skin. 'Eczema is a type of dermatitis of the skin, which is characterised by really excessively dry skin, and very itchy and skin can be very scaly as well and have some texture,' says Dija Ayodele, aesthetician and author of Black Skin. 'In all skin tones, the skin will be inflamed but in lighter skin, you can see the inflammation more because the skin tends to be red raised and angry. Sometimes the skin breaks, which can lead to weeping sores. On darker skin tones there tends to be a discolouration of the skin. Areas that have eczema will look darker, due to inflammation, as well as the melanin in the skin, rushing to the trauma caused by the condition.'

At the time, because most research reported on the condition from the perspective of white skin, a super common diagnosis for children was harder to come by due to a lack of knowledge.

In terms of eczema treatment, my parents were diligent in keeping my skin cocooned from then on. I remember starting to have E45 baths and my mum coating me in cocoa butter and Oilatum. From then on, I don’t remember a time that eczema didn’t play a role in the way that I treated my skin and while I still don’t know the initial trigger, I can now gauge the things that’ll trigger a flare-up and the products I can use to calm it down, no doubt thanks to my job as a beauty editor.

Having eczema as a beauty editor

Being a beauty editor with a skin condition is interesting, to say the least, infuriating to say the most. While skincare routines are much more upfront with the ingredients that are in products nowadays the same can’t be said for makeup. So, there are makeup items that I pretty much have to completely veto because of bad reactions in the past. Eye primers and matte lip stains have to be avoided. I once tried an eyeshadow primer that triggered a month-long flare-up on my eyelids. They were red raw and scaly and the discolouration that the trauma left is still visible to this day. Someone asked me what eyeshadow I was wearing directly after my flare-up and I had to tell them it was the remanence of eczema. Awkward.

When I’m experiencing a flare-up, which I can now narrow down to be triggered by stress, illness, dust, specific essential oils and fragrance, (plus the odd unknown product ingredient), I strip everything back in my beauty regime to gentle formulas. I also remove actives from the line-up to take extra precautions while my skin is healing, all advice that Dr Justine Hextall, Consultant Dermatologist for La Roche-Posay, advocates. 'Taking simple steps like choosing a gentle and hydrating skin cleanser that doesn’t leave skin tight and dry will be such an important first step,' she says. 'Make sure that skin is cleansed after the shower to remove any irritating products such as shampoo and shower gel, which will make a huge difference especially if facial eczema is an issue. If the skin barrier is more sensitive, add a layer of moisturiser to vulnerable areas, such as around the eyes before showering to effectively protect against irritating foaming shower products.'

Reliable brands to help with flare-ups

There are specific brands that I always turn to when I’m in the midst of a flare-up – like I am as I write this – and while they aren’t the most exciting brands, they can be relied on to eventually bring my skin back to neutral. La Roche-Posay, Eucerin, Avene and Sanex all have a special spot on my skincare shelf for eczema emergencies. As Dr Hextall notes ingredients-wise there are ones that should be top of the list. 'Look for products in moisturisers that help to hold water in the skin barrier such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid and urea. Emollient products such as shea butter and ceramides mimic the skin’s own fats and oils to prevent water loss.'

While I know that eczema is a skin condition that I’ll be dealing with for a long time to come, I also know that my flare-ups are often small and manageable (with the right products). So for the most part I definitely don’t let it get in the way of the most enjoyable part of my job, indulging in beauty!

Best eczema creams: my flare-up favourites

1. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5

2. Dr. Lipp Original Nipple Balm

3. Sanex Zero% Gentle Moisture Shower Gel for Sensitive Skin

4. Avène Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream for Sensitive Skin

5. Eucerin Aquaphor Skin Soothing Gel Balm

6. CeraVe Moisturising Cream

Despite usually being referred to as simply 'eczema' there are quite a few different types, each with its own specific set of causes and treatment options. So alongside your best eczema creams, knowing the different types of eczema might just make your maintenance that much easier.

'Eczema is a catch-all term that refers to inflammation of the skin that is related to skin barrier dysfunction,' explains dermatologist Dr Beibei Du-Harpur. But we have dug a little deeper into the different types of eczema, because as they say 'knowledge is power'.

What are the different types of eczema?

Dishydrotic eczema

Also known as pompholyx, dishydrotic eczema appears as tiny, fluid-filled blisters usually on your hands and feet. They look like raised pinpricks covering the top of hands or feet or in patches between the fingers and toes, and are incredibly itchy, becoming even sorer if they burst as your skin tries to heal.

While the exact causes are unknown, it's thought dishydrotic eczema is triggered by stress or upon contact with allergens.

Atopic eczema

Also known as atopic dermatitis, this is the most common type of eczema, often found in people who also have asthma, hay fever and allergies. 'This can be genetic and you may notice your skin gets irritated on the face, in front of the elbows and behind the knees,' Dr Walayat Hussain of Bupa Health Clinics. 'It usually flares up if you have allergies and come into contact with soaps, detergents or other types of chemicals.

'Although there is no cure for atopic eczema, your GP or dermatologist may prescribe you a specific type of moisturiser known as an emollient. These work by restoring water and oils to your skin to soothe and hydrate it, as well as helping to repair the damaged skin.'

Dr Du-Harpur explains that people who suffer from atopic eczema have a lipid matrix that simply is not programmed to mature and develop optimally and therefore the water-retaining ability of the skin is reduced, which is why using rich, nourishing creams is super important.

Contact eczema

This type appears when your skin becomes sensitised to something in the environment. 'Unlike a peanut allergy, which occurs immediately upon exposure, contact dermatitis develops over a period of time as your body becomes sensitised to something you may have been using or wearing for years, such as nickel in jewellery,' says Dr Hussain.

'Contact dermatitis often affects your hands, so avoid this, consider what products you’re using that may be irritating your skin and try shielding your hands from them. Your GP may refer you to a specialist Dermatologist who performs patch testing, which can help identify what you’re allergic to.'

Discoid eczema

This type appears as very itchy, flat red patches of inflamed skin, usually on the arms and or legs, and is most commonly found in middle-aged or elderly people. 'We don’t know what exactly causes discoid eczema, but in keeping with other types, your skin loses moisture and therefore struggles to provide an effective barrier against substances,' says Dr Hussain. 'This means usually harmless substances, like soap, can irritate your skin.

'Although there’s no simple cure for this type of eczema, your dermatologist or pharmacist can recommend some medications to help ease the symptoms, along with daily moisturising.' Read our guide to the best moisturiser for dry skin and choose a gentle formula for eczema-prone skin.

Seborrhoeic eczema

In seborrhoeic eczema, the inflammation usually occurs in areas of your skin that are hairier or more oily, i.e. where there are more sebaceous glands, such as your eyebrows, chest or scalp.

'It’s believed that seborrhoeic dermatitis is caused by having too much yeast in your system or your immune system’s over-reaction to yeast,' adds Dr Hussain. 'Your dermatologist can recommend some creams and shampoos to help reduce the level of yeast you have which should help ease the symptoms.

Varicose eczema

Varicose eczema mainly affects people who have varicose veins, causing the skin around them to become itchy and inflamed, and can be managed by working on improving your circulation.

'This can be done by keeping active and wearing compression socks every day, applying moisturiser to help with the dryness and talking to your pharmacist about which ointments would be best for you,' advises Dr Hussain. 'If this doesn’t work, your GP may refer you to a dermatologist or vascular specialist to explore other treatment options.

Finding the right one is essential

Eczema is a chronic inflammatory condition that isn't something that you are able to cure, but something that you can control. And the best way to do that is with an arsenal of the best eczema creams.

Because these are integral to your treatment plan says Dr Amélie Seghers, Consultant Dermatologist at The Clinic by Dr Maryam Zamani and author of Eczema: How To Ditch The Itch (£11.86 | Amazon). As she says, 'people with diabetes have to inject themselves with insulin every day, people with eczema have to use moisturisers every day.

'I always try to explain that your skin is like a wall with bricks and mortar. And those with a tendency to eczema don't have good quality mortar. That means the wall is not as strong, so there's more chance of water loss, which means that the skin gets dry.'

What to look for in the best eczema cream?

A clinical trial was recently held to answer that exact question. UK dermatology researchers tested 550 children with eczema to see how they responded to various formulations types. Interestingly, what they found was that there wasn't one particular moisturiser type that stood out, it was in fact using all types of moisturisers that helped to improve their eczema. The trial concluded that those with eczema should actually choose their moisturisers based on their own preference.

That sentiment is echoed by Dr Seghers, who says that the best moisturiser is the one that you're going to use. 'You have to find a moisturiser that you like because if you're not going to like it you're not going to put it on.' We totally understand that you might not want to leave the house in the mornings with a thick ointment on your skin, so you could opt for a moisturiser consistency that you like during the day and up the ante in the evening with richer creams.

There are of course products that have ingredients in their formulations that make them good candidates for the best eczema cream.

'Moisturisers with ceramides are good,' says Dr Seghers. 'As well as ones that contain glycerin and urea.' All of these ingredients support the skin barrier, which is key to looking after your skin when you have eczema because it helps your skin retain water. 'Humectants like glycerin, aloe Vera and hyaluronic acid are also a must,' says Skin Expert Fiona Brackenbury. 'These moisture magnets help the skin retain moisture.'

Niacinamide (vitamin B3) is also another ingredient to look out for. It's thought to 'help the formation of the lipid barrier by encouraging the skin to produce more ceramides, which are part of its lipid matrix,' says Dr Beibei du Harpur, dermatologist. It's also a gentle anti-inflammatory, 'this superhero vitamin reduces inflammation which would lead to irritation and flare-ups when allowed to build up,' adds Brackenbury.

Consistency is also important when looking after eczema-prone skin. Make sure you are moisturising regularly. 'Lots of moisture will be your skin's saviour and will help support your compromised skin barrier,' says Brackenbury.

Elise Loubatieres, aka @littlemissplumful, is a content creator who documents her journey with eczema on Instagram and TikTok. It's an honest account with useful tips that shows the reality of living with the skin condition.

'I hope that by putting myself out there I am raising awareness so that those who do not suffer from eczema can get an insight into what it's like living with it,' she says. 'I manage my eczema with various emollients and ointments, with a little help from topical immunosuppressants if it really flares up. My go-tos brands are those that are dermatologist-approved and French pharmacy brands. I love thick rich creams, that I then layer with ointments.'

When it comes to make-up, things can get tricky, as Loubatieres knows only too well. 'I'm not a huge make-up wearer, because when you have dry skin it often just clings to these patches and makes it looks worse,' she says. 'It also can further irritate my skin. The other issue is that when I'm flaring up or particularly dry, I need to re-apply emollients frequently and that's tricky when wearing makeup. I tend to just rock the shiny skin and wear a bold red lip. But when I do wear make-up, I go for creamy textures rather than powders.'

Products to steer clear of

Whilst there are creams that you absolutely should have in your skincare routine, there are also those that our experts would recommend you stay away from. If not permanently, then at least during a flare-up.

As eczema is an inflammatory skin condition and the skin barrier is severely compromised, your skincare approach needs to be adjusted to reflect this fragile skin condition. 'Fragrance and essential oils are some of the most important ingredients that are good to get into the habit of steering away from as they can trigger a flare-up,' says Brackenbury. 'I would also recommend avoiding chemical exfoliants (AHA’s, BHA’S & PHA’s), as these will be too aggravating. The skin barrier is already weakened so you wouldn’t want to expose the skin to dynamic exfoliators that aid in the removal of dead cells and thin the skin.

'Retinoids are known for their amazing ability to kick start cell renewal and collagen production, however brilliant and dynamic they are, but they're a big no-no and best avoided as they can cause skin sensitivity.'

She also says that when using a cleansing balm opt for a microfibre cleansing cloth, rather than a muslin, to clean your skin as it's much more gentle.

Whilst Dr Seghers agrees that the above ingredients can cause flare-ups and should be used with caution, she says they don't need to be avoided completely. 'Some people can tolerate them, but people with eczema have more sensitive skin so you just have to keep that in mind.'

Loubatieres's skincare habits fall in line with this advice: 'I stay away from anything overly perfumed or with strong exfoliating acids,' she says. 'I tend to avoid ingredients like salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, retinol etc... However, as my skin is healing I am starting to produce more of my own oils again and have started getting spots. So I will use these ingredients in a small % in targeted areas.'

Again, if you are after something that's a little more 'active', that's where niacinamide-based products will come in.

Best eczema creams 2022:

Below you'll find an edit of face creams, body creams and some make-up that all come recommended by our experts. If you're struggling with eczema-prone skin, we hope these will offer some relief.

Find out how this wonder ingredient could help your skin

These days we're a lot savvier about the ingredients our skincare contains, from niacinamide to glycolic acid, peptides and salicylic acid.

But if you're yet to be versed in the ways that niacinamide benefits skin, allow us to clear some of the fog surrounding this excellent all-rounder. We picked the brains of some of the industry's top experts to break down why this ingredient is so good for your skin...

What is niacinamide?

'Niacinamide is otherwise known as vitamin B3 and is crucial for the functioning of the skin barrier,' explains Dr Justine Hextall, La Roche-Posay's Consultant Dermatologist. 'It’s also a great anti-inflammatory ingredient and can help to improve uneven skin tone, soften fine lines and wrinkles, diminish dullness, and strengthen a weakened surface. This means it can also help to treat and improve redness and sensitivity.'

Found in many of the best face serums, the benefits of this wonder ingredient don't stop there. Paula Begoun, skin expert and founder of Paula's Choice, adds that it's an important part of our diets, found as niacin in foods like grains, fish, meat and beans.

'For skin, topical niacinamide has long-standing research showing a wide range of remarkable benefits for all skin types and all ages,' she explains. 'Interestingly, not much of the niacinamide we consume from foods or supplements makes its way to skin, so topical application is a great way to get its numerous skin benefits.'

What does niacinamide do to the skin?

Because of the seemingly endless list of its benefits, Paula explains that vitamin B3 can benefit pretty much all skin types and concerns.

'Topically, it has so many ways to help skin [that] it’s really mind-boggling. Decades of research have shown it works to protect skin from environmental damage, especially sun damage, and also helps the skin make vital substances it needs.

'It also improves hydration, reduces signs of ageing, diminishes enlarged pores, lessens blackheads, and significantly improves skin discolouration and uneven skin tone. More current research shows it even has cell repairing properties.'

There are a number of ways that this super ingredient manages to do all this. 'One way is because of its powerful antioxidant properties,' Paula explains. 'Another way is how niacinamide helps generate other important substances in the skin such as ceramides and keratin – both are major protective elements in the skin. Even more notable is how niacinamide works as a “cell-communicating ingredient”. This means it can “talk” to many different kinds of cells in the skin, telling them to make normal, healthier, and younger-acting cells.

'And the list goes on,' she adds. 'Research has also shown niacinamide helps control excess oil and reduces the appearance of wrinkles because of its anti-inflammatory action, and assists in repairing the skin’s barrier. In short, it’s an endlessly fascinating ingredient for skin with ongoing research discovering new benefits.'

How to use niacinamide

If you want to add niacinamide to your skincare routine, Dr Hextall recommends starting with a 10% concentration. 'There are lots of excellent serums that include niacinamide, but it can also be found in many moisturisers,' she explains. 'I’d always suggest changing only one thing in your routine at a time so that you can tell where any irritation may be coming from, though it is rare for niacinamide to cause irritation.'

The good news is that most skin types get on well with this ingredient, including sensitive skin, and you don't need to worry about avoiding particular skincare ingredients alongside it. 'Niacinamide can work with most other actives and can be layered if it is in more than one product in your routine,' Dr Hextall adds. 'It can be really helpful to include niacinamide if you are using actives such as AHAs, BHAs or Retinoids as it can help to cushion the blow to your skin.

'The Retinol B3 from La Roche-Posay (£40 | Lookfantastic) actually includes niacinamide as a key accompaniment to the 0.2% retinol, to ensure that even sensitive skin can tolerate the active. It really is an ingredient that anyone can benefit from in their routine.'

Intrigued? Keep reading for the niacinamide skincare buys to shop right now.

Whether you prefer seven steps or a couple, we're here to make sure your skincare routine is in the right order

With approximately a bajillion products on the market (just a ballpark), it's safe to say that the order of your skincare routine can get a bit confusing.

From glycolic acid to vitamin C serums to retinol and more, our skincare routines are no longer a case of simply cleansing, toning and moisturising. (Alas.) So if you're finding yourself regularly wondering 'what order should I apply my skincare products? Am I doing this right?', worry not. Because we're here to clear the fog on your skincare order.

'The order and steps depend on your skin type, which is why when reading blogs and online articles, you have to keep in mind the person writing might have totally different skin needs to you,' explains skin expert Ksenia Selivanova.

'For example, dry and reactive skin will not need a toner, and oils aren't suited to every skin. A good way to remember how to layer products is thinner, water-based products first followed by oil-based, thicker products, and always ending with SPF [during the day].'

Below you'll find a handy 'cheat sheet' for your skincare order. These are the steps you should be applying your skincare products in as advised by the experts. Be sure to bookmark for future reference.

Why the order of your skincare routine matters

Generally speaking, the rule of skincare routines can be summarised as thus: protect your skin in the daytime – SPF, best BB creams and primers – and correct your skin in the evening – retinols, concentrated serums, and heavier moisturisers.

Having all the beauty products in the world at your disposal won't matter if you're applying them in the wrong order, however. This is because products applied in the incorrect order – or even too many products applied at once – will dilute or cancel each other out; undoing all your hard work. In case you need a reminder of the skincare order...

Daytime skincare routine 

1. Cleanser

First thing's first – wash your face morning (and night too) as the first step in your routine, using your best cleanser and a hot flannel, microfibre or muslin cloth. 'Cleansing your skin is the most basic part of a good skincare routine and ideally should take place twice daily,' explains consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. 'It functions to remove dirt, sweat, grime, microbes and pollution from the skin surface, as well as creating a clean base to then apply further products.'

2. Toner

If you enjoy using your best toner and it your skin has no problem with it, do so after cleanser. But whether it's absolutely necessary is widely debated. 'I'm not a big fan of toners as they often irritate the skin,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk.

'Not all skin types need a toner,' adds Kate Bancroft, founder of Face the Future. 'Sometimes a hydrating spray is a better option.'

Toners that contain AHAs or BHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids) are a different story, as they act as an exfoliating step in your routine. These may help if you struggle with breakouts, clogged pores or slow skin cell turnover, depending on the particular acid. However, it's important that you follow the guidance on using acid-containing products and introduce them to your skin slowly.

'Caution is required with the exfoliating acids - the AHAs and BHAs,' Dr Mahto warns. 'Commonly used AHAs in skincare include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and BHAs include salicylic acid. These can lead to dryness, flaking, itching, sensitivity and irritation if they are overused.

'Those who are more likely to develop sensitivity include those with dry or sensitive skin or a predisposition to skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.'

3. Serums

Next in your routine comes the best face serums. In the morning, it's a good idea to use one of the best vitamin C serums as it offers additional protection for skin during the day. 'After cleansing, using an antioxidant serum containing vitamin C can help with skin brightening, as well as helping against harmful molecules known as free radicals, which lead to premature skin ageing,' Dr Mahto explains.

Hydrating serums can be used at any time of day, so you may want add one in here, too. (Layered before your treatment serum if you're doubling up.)

4. Moisturiser/oil/eye cream

Depending on your skin type, be sure to choose the best moisturiser for dry skin, best moisturiser for oily skin or best moisturiser for combination skin. They may be humectants, attracting water to the skin; emollients, providing a protective barrier to trap moisture; or occlusive, preventing water loss. This is also when you should be applying the best eye cream for your needs - whether that's for dark circles, bags or perhaps wrinkles.

5. Sun cream

Whatever your skin tone, sun protection is a must every single day – not just in the summer months! 'Using a sunscreen can help protect against skin cancer, as well as early onset of skin ageing, such as wrinkles or pigmentation,' Mahto confirms. In the same vein, a brilliant hyperpigmentation treatment is your BFF when it comes to preventing discolouration. Be sure to check out our edits of the best facial sunscreens and best sun creams for our top recommendations.

Nighttime skincare routine

1. Cleanser

Start by removing make-up and washing the day's grease and grime away – double cleansing comes into play in the evenings – again using your trusty flannel, microfibre or muslin cloth.

For the primary cleanse, a cleansing balm or oil is best for removing make-up and impurities from the day gone by. After that, a wash-off cleanser like the one you use in the morning (which can absolutely be the same) actually cleans the face.

2. Face mask (optional)

A frequently asked question is, where do the best face masks fit into your routine? The short answer is after cleansing, before all your other skincare steps, about twice weekly. 'Masks, if used, can be applied once or twice a week,' says Dr Kluk. 'I would suggest applying a mask after cleansing in the evening, then following with the rest of your usual skincare routine.'

3. Toner

If you're a fan of toner, here's where you should add it in to your evening routine.

4. Retinol (avoid using with AHA/BHAs)

'At night, using a vitamin A product [like retinol] will help boost collagen production in the skin as well as even out skin tone,' Dr Mahto explains. Retinol is known for being a pretty potent potion, so on the days you apply it, swap out any acid-containing products to avoid any reactions. It's thought that this can make your skin more sensitive to the sun initially, so it's worth applying in the evening and always using SPF the next day. Which, we might add, you should be doing every day anyway!

'Following retinol with any other topical skincare will dilute the active ingredient, vitamin A, and reduce its effectiveness,' Bancroft adds.

Depending on your skin's level of sensitivity, you may want to avoid acids completely on the days you're using retinol (more on why later). If you're new to it, be sure to introduce it gradually and begin with a low concentration, like 0.3%. Every third day is a good frequency to begin with.

5. Serum

Again referring to The Inkey List's earlier advice, apply hydrating serums first and treatment serums second. 'AHAs, such as glycolic or lactic acid can be used throughout the week depending on tolerance and sensitivity to gently chemically exfoliate the upper layer of dead skin cells, leading to a brighter complexion,' explains Mahto.

6. Moisturiser/oil/eye cream

Finish your nightly routine with your usual moisturiser or the best night cream for your skin type. And if your skin is particularly dry, you could try layering an oil over the top to lock in moisture, but it may not be essential. Final step is your eye cream.

Where do LED masks fit in?

LED masks should be used after cleansing and before the rest of your skincare routine. Most dermatologists and facialists recommend using them on clean, dry skin so the light can reach the skin without being obstructed by sunscreen, makeup or thicker skincare products. Once your session is complete, continue with your routine as normal, starting with any hydrating or treatment serums before applying moisturiser.

While the exact order isn't likely to make or break your results, consistency is. Most at-home LED devices recommend use between three and five times per week, and because sessions typically last only 10 to 20 minutes, many people find they slot naturally into an evening routine while reading or watching television.

If you're looking for a device to invest in, the Project E Beauty LumaLux Face Pro LED Light Therapy Mask combines red, blue and near-infrared light wavelengths to target concerns including fine lines, blemishes and inflammation. Using it before your evening skincare allows the rest of your routine to focus on hydrating, repairing and protecting the skin overnight.

Are there products that can't be applied together?

More and more of us are using potent skincare ingredients, like acids and retinol, on the regular, so it's important to know which of the strong stuff don't mix.

'Vitamin A creams, such as retinol or retinaldehyde, may increase sensitivity to the sun and so should be applied at night – and SPF should be applied the following morning. The same goes for acids,' explains Dr Kluk.

While it's not an absolute rule not to do so, many people would find using the two at once far too irritating. 'I would avoid using multiple products with irritant properties at the same time,' explains Dr Kluk. 'An example of this would be avoiding the application of AHAs, such as glycolic acid, and retinol or any of the prescription retinoid creams together. Many people can't even tolerate using these on the same day, so my advice would be to choose one or the other unless advised otherwise by a dermatologist.'

Kate agrees: 'I don't like to mix acids and retinols at the same time; some skins are highly susceptible to retinoid reactions and mixing too many actives in one go is asking for trouble.'

These days acids come in just about every skincare form, from cleanser to toner, serum and moisturiser. So what's the safe limit for how many AHA/BHA products you can use in one go?

Final skincare routine tips

It's also a good idea to leave some time between products to allow them to work into the skin. While this likely isn't possible when you're in a rush to get to your desk, even leaving a minute between applications will allow your skincare products to work their magic. Try cleaning your teeth, brushing your hair or making your morning coffee between steps to buy your products more time to absorb into your skin.

Here's to many good skin days ahead...

For more skincare advice and product recommendations, head to our Hair & Beauty section at the top of the page.

It can take time to properly curate a successful skincare routine. Firstly, you have to identify your skin type, then you need to figure out which ingredients you should be using and finally, you have the find the right products to suit your skin's needs (as well as your budget's).

Once you've got to that point, you think you have it nailed. But sometimes your skin has other plans and refuses to play ball. We recently spoke with two of London's top dermatologists and they revealed the skincare mistakes that continue to see people make. Keep scrolling, as you might just find some that ring true for you. And you never know correcting a few little bad habits here and there will improve your skin today and beyond.

Common skincare mistakes

1. Not cleansing your face before you go to bed

Whilst going to bed with a full face of make-up might be considered sacrilege to some, it's not the case it would seem for others. Dr Stephanie Williams, a cosmetic dermatologist and founder of EUDELO Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing Clinic, still sees people who don't consider cleansing one of the golden rules of skincare.

'I can’t stress strongly enough how important proper cleansing is to our daily skincare programme,' she says. 'Even more so in the evening, as cleansing not only removes dirt, old makeup, excess oil, and dead skin cells but also removes pollution remnants from the skin. Urban pollution is known to generate free radicals, cause inflammation and deplete antioxidant defences in the skin.'

Not cleansing also increases your chances of getting spots, so if you're prone to a breakout it's even more important that you are cleansing your skin at night.

2. Picking spots

'As someone who suffers from acne I know how hard it is to leave your skin alone when you experience a breakout,' admits Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible. But she warns against fiddling with your blemishes, as it creates a higher risk of scarring and infection. 'I often advise patients to distract themselves if they feel like they're going to pick at their skin. Applying a topical spot cream can help too - look for ones with ingredients like salicylic acid and azelaic acid.'

3. Overusing silicone derivatives in skincare

You've probably heard some beauty experts talking about silicones and how we must avoid them at all costs. But that can be quite hard to do if you don't know what to look for. 'There is a trend in skincare to overload skincare products with silicone derivatives such as dimethicone and cyclomethicone,' explains Dr Williams. The reason is that silicones create that lovely feel to a product, the non-sticky, silky-to-the-touch feeling. 'This is a really bad idea in my professional opinion. Silicones build a thin film on top of your skin and ‘fill up’ pores (a bit like Polyfilla for a hole in the wall), in order to minimise the appearance of pores. And while this may make your skin feel good, it clogs pores and encourages congestion and breakouts.'

Take a look at a product's inkey list (the ingredients list on the back of the packaging) and look out for words like these: dimethicone, cyclomethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

4. Avoiding SPF or not reapplying

We're torn with this one, because on one side we're quite surprised that this is still a common skincare mistake that people are still making, and yet we're also not surprised. Olay recently conducted a survey that revealed that one in 10 adults believe they're too young to wear SPF daily, a fifth of Brits believe that UV rays can actually help you look younger and a further fifth of people admit to only wear SPF when it's sunny.

'Many people assume that SPF is only required when the weather is extremely hot,' says Dr Williams. 'and we need to protect ourselves from being burnt. However, if you want to slow down skin ageing, daily SPF is vital. Up to 80% of visible skin ageing is caused by UV rays. Sun damage is a cumulative process. Right from childhood, our skin clocks up all those hours of sun exposure. Skin does not forget.'

In short, UVA rays cause ageing as they're able to penetrate deeper into the skin. UVB rays cause burning and can even get you through windows and clouds. However, both are linked to skin cancer, so you need good protection from both on a daily basis.

The other mistake lots of us are making is failing to top up our sun protection throughout the day. 'There's a tendency for people to think that if they've put factor 50 on first thing in the morning, that it's enough to cover them for a considerable amount of time,' Dr Mahto adds. 'This isn't the case. Especially when on holiday or on particularly hot and sunny days here in the UK. Sunscreen needs to be reapplied every 2-3 hours and especially after getting out of the pool/sea. There's no magic answer for how to get people to do this more frequently I'm afraid.' Dr Mahto suggests potentially setting a timer on your phone or have a look at our guide to the best SPF to apply over make-up.

5. Trying too many new products at once

We're all guilty of this. After a fairly hefty shopping spree at Space NK, you can't wait to get home and try out all of your buys at once. 'With the plethora of skincare products available and the rise of influencer culture where individuals can be seen using endless products in a day/evening routine, it's led to a lot of my patients experiencing FOMO,' explains Dr Mahto. 'They too start to introduce too many products into their routine which can lead to overuse and manifest in skin issues.'

Recently Dr Mahto had a patient who had been using too many punchy actives on her skin after watching skincare routines on TikTok. The result? The person had developed perioral dermatitis, which presents itself as a red, scaly and dry rash around the mouth. The patient's skin barrier was compromised and in need of some serious microbiome-friendly skincare. 'My advice is to keep your skincare routine streamlined and simple,' she says. 'Most skin types will benefit from a good basic cleanser, moisturiser and vitamin A product.'

Not all skincare ingredients were created equal. There are some that are without a doubt essential to any successful skincare routine.

But with so many buzzy ingredients and countless products on the market it can be tricky to navigate your way through it all.

That's why we went directly to the people in the know - Dr Stefanie Williams, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of the EUDELO Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing Clinic, and Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible - and asked them which skincare ingredients should we all be using?

This is what they had to say...

Antioxidants

'Antioxidants scavenge or neutralise free radicals, which is why they’re such a key ingredient in skincare,' says Dr Williams. Free radical damage and oxidative stress are one of the key causes of skin ageing.

'Excess free radicals are triggered after sun and pollution exposure, but internal cell metabolism also generates free radicals every second of every day. This is why a high-grade antioxidant product is an absolute must in everyone’s skincare regime.'

Whilst you might think that your best facial sunscreen is enough to protect you from the sun's damage. Dr Williams is here to tell you otherwise. 'UV filters will only protect your skin from UVA and UVB irradiation, but generally not from infrared (the sun’s heat rays) and visible light which is another big part of the sun’s natural spectrum, and these will also generate free radicals in your skin. That’s why we need to add the ‘safety net’ of antioxidants. Topical antioxidants will also help protect your skin from oxidative stress caused by blue light exposure from digital screens (blue light comes from the sun, but can also be emitted from digital devices).'

Dr Williams-approved antioxidants

1. Vitamin C 
2. Vitamin E
3. Polyphenols (such as white tea and rosemary extracts)

SPF

We wax lyrical about the daily need for sun protection. Why do we do this? Because dermatologists have been telling us for years that this is the key to keeping your skin looking younger for longer. 'Sun protection is one of the most essential aspects of any skin preservation programme,' says Dr Williams. 'That’s because the sun is one of the greatest causes of premature skin ageing and irregular pigmentation and can even lead to skin cancer.'

So, what sun protection factor (SPF) should you use? Dr Williams recommends a broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 (these will screen out 97 – 98% of UVB rays). 'There are a couple of reasons for aiming high,' she says. 'Firstly, studies have proved we usually don’t apply quite enough product, so even if you’re wearing sun protection, it may not reach the SPF factor stated on the box. Secondly, in daily life, we don’t re-apply it every two hours as needed to keep the protection level high. So, I don’t believe that SPF 12-15 in your high street moisturiser will save your skin as, by the afternoon, when the sun is at its highest, you’ll have hardly any protection left. So, aim for broad-spectrum SPF 30–50 with a high UVA rating, plus wear antioxidants underneath.'

She hastens to add though that a significant number of her patients, who wear high SPF daily, are vitamin D deficient. So she recommends you get your levels checked or take a vitamin D3 supplement. 'Most people benefit from taking 1000IU vitamin D3 per day, which is more than you get in a typical multivitamin.'

Vitamin A

Dr Williams suggests everyone have a 'Matrix stimulator’ in their routine. What's that? It's an ingredient that will stimulate the fibroblast skin cells in the dermis to produce more collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid.

The most well-known 'matrix stimulator' is vitamin A and its derivatives, like retinol.

Dr Mahto agrees, 'Most people would benefit from introducing a vitamin A product into their routine. It's often referred to as the gold standard of anti-ageing thanks to its ability to resurface the skin and minimise fine lines and wrinkles. The great thing about retinoids (the name given to all vitamin A derivatives) is that there are many different strengths/types. There really is something for everyone with the availability/choice of retinoid products now available on the market.'

Types of retinoids recommended by our derms

'Over-the-counter products that contain the below support collagen production, reduce sun damage, lighten pigmentation and soften lines and wrinkles,' says Dr Williams. 'They also help to prevent breakouts, so for breakout-prone skin with ageing concerns, they are a win-win ingredient.'

1. Retinol - great for all skin types
2. Retinoic acid ester (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) - great for those with sensitive skin
3. Retinal (retinaldehyde) - ideal for acne-prone skin

If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, then you should avoid using retinoids. Dr Mahto recommends the vitamin A alternative bakuchiol.

So there we have it, make sure you've got antioxidants, SPF and vitamin A in your skincare routine.

Knowing your skin type is integral to nailing your skincare routine and getting closer to happy, glowy skin. If you have dry skin, you probably shouldn't use products aimed at tackling acne-prone skin. But how can you identify your skin type?

We spoke with skincare expert, Fiona Brackenbury who gave us a few tips and tricks to help you determine which skin type you have.

How do you find out what skin type you are?

'The easiest way to know your skin type is to cleanse your skin and leave for 30 minutes without applying any skincare. No toners, essences, serums or moisturiser. After half an hour you will be able to observe the level of oil the skin has produced.'

Brackenbury says that if you're greasy all over then it's a sign that you are oily-skinned. Shiny patches only in certain places indicate a combination skin type. Dry or rough to the touch means dry skin, and comfortable and well balanced is what she would call 'normal skin'.

Can you be more than one skin type?

'Yes combination skin can have two skin types, an oily t-zone and normal to dry cheeks.'

How many skin types are there?

'Contrary to popular belief there are only four skin types – normal, dry, oily and combination. Often sensitive skin is thrown into the mix. However, it's important to remember that any skin type can become sensitive.'

Things like lifestyle choices and skincare routines can cause skin to experience sensitivity at any point.

Can you change skin type?

'Your skin type is controlled by your genes. Ultimately, it’s the skin you are born with. Where the confusion comes from is when we add skin conditions into the mix, these are conditions that come and go and hopefully don’t stay too long when you use the right skincare.'

Skin conditions refer to things like eczema, acne, dermatitis and rosacea.

What's the difference between dry and dehydrated skin?

'Dry skin is a skin type. It’s where the skin naturally produces fewer lipids (oils). The skin can often feel tight, gasping for moisture and leaves skin with an uncomfortable sensation when no skincare is applied.

'Dehydration is a skin condition and it’s when the skin is lacking in water, typically the skin barrier is allowing water to evaporate. The skin can look dull, tired and when you lift the cheek gently upwards with your finger, you can see fine horizontal lines.'

What's the difference between oil-skin type and acne-prone skin?

Once again oily skin is a skin type, whereas acne is a skin condition.

'You can go through the majority of your life and never get a breakout and then suddenly hit mid-thirties and you experience adult acne. Acne is a skin condition and isn’t linked to an oily skin type. You can have a normal skin type and develop acne in your 20s.

'The two biggest offenders are bacteria and inflammation, stress can also increase cortisol levels. This causes the oil levels to surge which will then add more complexity and makes a lovely environment for the bacteria to create a spot.'

Key ingredients and products for each skin type

Brackenbury takes us through ingredients, products and certain steps in a routine to suit each skin type.

Dry skin:

'Cleanse with cleansing oils and balms. These will bring instant comfort and nourishment to your skin. People with dry skin will often find that they are dehydrated too, so look to include hyaluronic acids, serums and facial oils at night into your routine. It will be a dry skin BFF.'

Normal skin:

'Don’t take your normal skin for granted, it’s easy to neglect it when it's so well behaved. A good skincare routine, cleansing, moisturising and sunscreen are key. For normal skin investing in a good moisturiser is key. For simple routines, combine your moisturiser with your sunscreen with one of the best SPF moisturisers.'

Combination skin:

'This is the trickiest skin type to manage, as technically you have two skin types. Depending on the level of oiliness on the t-zone, an exfoliating facial wash will prevent the t-zone from breaking out and keep the normal/dry skin on the cheeks smooth.'

Oily skin:

'Be careful not to fall into the trap of over stripping in the quest for shine-free skin. The skin is clever and will only pump out more oil in a bid to keep the skin moisturised. Remember, your genes are controlling your skin type so it’s impossible to override your genes. Look for a cleanser and or toner that contains salicylic acid or BHA. It’s a brilliant oil-loving ingredient that has the ability to get inside the pores and cleanse effectively. Seek a moisturiser that is oil-free, which will leave the skin feeling hydrated and moisturised without that feeling of heaviness.'

If you need any further product help, here are a couple of links to our guides specifically for skin types:

• Best moisturiser for oily skin
• Best moisturiser for dry skin
• Best moisturiser for combination skin
• Best foundation for dry skin
• Best foundation for oily skin
• Best foundation for combination skin

Knowing your skin type will help you create a skincare routine that works harder for you.

Because they are essential to any summer look

It isn't just small rodents and bears that go into hibernation over the winter months, so do regular tans and strict hair-removal regimes. And with the temperatures soaring in the UK right now, what's needed is an easy step-by-step of how to prep your legs for summer.

With the help of leg-expert Kate Shapland, creator of Legology - the cult beauty brand designed as a high-performance solution to cellulite and heavy legs - we've come up with a simple way to ensure that you don't get caught out on sunny days this summer.

Step 1: Exfoliate

'Skin which has been covered for months doesn’t look its best,' Shapland explains. 'Legs are usually a bit dry and dull. Even if you’ve religiously exfoliated and moisturised throughout winter, the expanse of bare skin from ankle to knee can demand an extra dollop of confidence to pull off.'

And so the first step is to buff away any dead skin. Not only will this create a clean, smooth surface, but it will also help boost circulation and get rid of any dullness. Dullness of the skin occurs because dead skin can't reflect light, so you want to get rid asap.

'You need a power buffer - something super-crunchy that will send a rush of nutrient-rich blood to the skin’s surface to give it tone and colour, and plants plenty of suppleness back in there.'

We also love Espa's Invigorating Salt Scrub, (£38 | Lookfantastic). If you don't think either of these are for you, you could choose the best body scrub for your skin type from our list.

Step 2: Dry Body Brush

This is one of those things that we, as beauty editors, repeatedly tell people to do because the benefits are phenomenal. But this is also one of those things, that in all honesty not many people can be arsed to do. However, we are going to preach about it again in the hope that this time you will take note and segue it into your routine.

In case you were wondering how to get rid of cellulite, we truly believe that this is one of the best ways to treat and get rid of the dreaded orange peel.

Brushing from the ankles upwards in the direction of the heart in quick, swift motions boosts circulation and helps lymphatic drainage. Trapped fluid emphasizes cellulite and makes legs feel heavy, but by brushing twice a day you decrease fluid retention and toxins are drained away.

Step 3: Moisturiser

If you want smooth and supple legs, you have to moisturise and you have to do it on a regular basis. This is not a step you want to skip. Nothing will leave legs in a better condition than super-duper hydrated skin.

Shapland recommends steering clear of oils, because not only do they sit on top of the skin and don't sink in as well as a moisturiser, but they're also unflattering. 'It's the shine - the only acceptable area for sheen on your legs is a line down the shins because it helps make this area look longer and narrower. All over shine gives you barrel legs in the same way that gloss volumises a lip.'

Another body cream that we're completely obsessed with at the moment is the new Ole Henriksen BeamCream Smoothing Body Moisturiser (£32 | Boots). It contains AHAs and fruit enzymes, which gently exfoliate the skin, and caffeine - a key ingredient in the best cellulite creams.

Step 4: Hair removal

The thing about hair removal is a person typically falls into one of a few camps - laser, epilating, waxing or shaving. Laser can be pricey (although the best IPL hair removal devices make it a lot purse-friendly), epilating could be compared to a Medieval torture technique and waxing is for those with a high pain threshold. Which leaves shaving. Shaving is simple, pain-free and more importantly, affordable.

In the past, you'd buy a bag of plastic razors and then throw them away as soon as the blades got blunt. But that's just not the sustainable steps we like to encourage at Marie Claire anymore. If shaving is your chosen form of hair removal, then subscription brands like Estrid are a great way to keep on top of your blades.

Step 5: Body Treatment

'Cellulite is not a life sentence,' says Martine de Richeville, creator of the body treatment Remodelage that helps to detox, refine and tone. Don't be fooled into thinking this is a relaxing-you-might-fall-asleep-during massage. It's not. It's a deep-tissue technique that incorporates the specially created 8 shaped motion and it pinches. Like a lot.

Don't be put off, because the therapist needs to get down into the lower levels to reach the older fat deposits. By doing this, it allows for better circulation to the area, which in turn reduces excess fat in the tissue. Not only does it tone the silhouette (which is excellent if you suffer from saddlebags at the top of your thighs), but it rather cleverly helps to filter the metabolic waste and flush out toxins, so your digestion improves too.

Shapland completely agrees that massage is vital to getting killer legs, 'If it’s good, it won’t be comfortable, but your legs will look less puffy & feel lighter; so book a course of sessions.'

Book Now

Step 6: Exercise

Nothing will prep your legs for summer better than exercise. We know, snooze. But Shapland suggests we embrace exercise: 'Get up and cross the office to speak to someone instead of emailing them, take the stairs at a run, do a handstand – anything that promotes circulation and maintains flow.'

Whilst a HIIT session or a spin class is a brilliant full-body workout, there are now more and more classes that are specifically aimed at toning. From your classic Legs, Bums and Tums class to Barre-style workouts that combine traditional ballet positions with repetitive movements from Pilates, you'll find something similar in most gyms. Why not choose one from our Health Editor's edit of the best gym classes.

Step 7: 'Fake Tan'

'One of the biggest mistakes women make with their legs through the summer is with self-tan, because inevitably it’s too dark,' explains Shapland. 'Too many of us make this mistake at the start of the summer when we’re desperate to improve the look of skin too quickly.'

Even if you have the best fake tan or follow our fake tan tips, it should still be incredibly subtle. Still unsure? We're talking more about blurring the imperfections on your legs. 'You’re aiming for the kind of sun-kissed shade skin develops after a long hot weekend, when skin has just ‘turned’, not full on tropical tan.'

If you can't give up the darker shade, then we recommend a leg make-up product like Vita Liberata Body Blur (£20 | Boots).

So there you have it. Your complete guide to getting your legs ready for the summer.

What are you waiting for? Begin with step 1.

Effective sun protection and radiant skin can now happily coexist thanks to the new generation of sunscreens. No longer gloopy, greasy and chalky, today’s formulas are just as sensorially pleasing as your favourite skincare and leave behind a barely-there finish – all while protecting your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. 

When it comes to the most cutting-edge innovation in suncare, La Roche-Posay is leading the charge. A French pharmacy brand owned by L'Oréal, La Roche-Posay is the #1 dermatologist recommended brand in the UK*. Known for its medical-first approach and formulas suitable for sensitive skin. La Roche-Posay’s Anthelios suncare is particularly noteworthy as it remains the brand’s best-selling franchise and a cult favourite with consumers. 

It’s not hard to see why. Both affordable and high-tech, Anthelios is driven by game-changing formulas. These include Anthelios Age Correct, a hybrid product that corrects and protects with an SPF50+. It’s so effective at improving the look of dark spots and boosting skin elasticity, it won a Marie Claire Skin Award. And it’s newest launch on the suncare block: Anthelios UVMUNE 400 SPF50+.

An innovative new filter

Most sunscreens on the market, including the entire Anthelios range, are broad spectrum, which means they protect against UVA and UVB rays. The latter are strongest in summer and cause sunburn. UVA rays, on the other hand, are present all year round and lead to premature ageing. New research by La Roche-Posay has shown that long UVA rays – which make up 30 per cent of the UV spectrum – are able to penetrate deeper than both UVB and shorter UVA rays, causing more significant damage in the form of wrinkles, pigmentation, slack skin and, in extreme cases, skin cancer.

To be amply protected against both UVA and UVB rays, skin experts including Dr Hiva Fassihi, consultant dermatologist for La Roche-Posay, advise wearing a sunscreen of SPF30 or above year-round, even on cloudy days. But La Roche-Posay has also gone one step further and developed a new filter – named Mexoryl 400 – for the new UVMune 400 SPF50+ facial sunscreen. UVMune 400 SPF50+ has the most efficient UV filter against the most penetrative UV rays**. 

UVMUNE 400 SPF50+: our verdict

While UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ is a new and improved reformulation of the original Anthelios Invisible Fluid SPF50+ , it still has the same famously lightweight texture and invisible finish, suitable for all skin tones. This being La Roche-Posay, UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ is of course suitable for sensitive skin. But the fact that it dries down to a matte finish also makes it ideal for oilier skin types and for applying makeup over the top. 

Simply smooth two teaspoons worth of UVMUNE 400 SPF50+ over the face and neck, or line your index and middle fingers with a strip of sunscreen, which is a simple way to measure out the correct amount you should be applying. Then relax on your sun lounger, safe in the knowledge that the formula is sweat, sand and water resistant, too. 

*A+A study of 78 consultant dermatologists Jan-March 2021.

**Ultra-long UVA rays [380-400nm]. UVA causes premature ageing.

Like many women, I spend a few minutes every morning in front of the mirror moisturising every square inch of skin – and yes, looking for cellulite. Like the grow-out phase of a fringe, it’s annoying. But, spoiler alert: cellulite is completely normal. You don’t have to love it – because I certainly don’t love my dimply thighs and bum – but it is natural. And in the same way that you may not be able to slay wrinkles completely, you can significantly improve the appearance with the best cellulite creams and know-how.

What is cellulite?

Cellulite is, at the most basic level, fat that is sandwiched between your skin and muscles.

'The fibres connecting your skin to your muscles pull the fat cells down as they continue to push up on your skin, which causes an uneven distribution of pressure,' explains Dr. Galyna Selezneva, a leading aesthetic doctor. 'So, you're left with the bumpy fat.' Imagine skin poking through the tiny holes in a pair of fishnet tights and you get the picture.

It's also pretty indiscriminate as it targets anyone, including Olympic athletes.

‘Between 80 and 90 per cent of women will experience cellulite at some point in their lives,’ says aesthetic doctor, founder and Medical Director of Illuminate Skin and Wellness Clinics, Dr Sophie Shotter.

What causes cellulite?

That’s a little trickier to answer.

'Cellulite is one of the most common aesthetic concerns and with good reason,' says Dr. Selezneva. 'There are many different causes that we may not always be aware of. These are multi factorial, but some are:

• Genetics
• Age
• Pregnancy
• Lifestyle – lack of movement, staying in one position for too long
• Diets too rich in fat, salt, carbohydrates
• Diets with too little fibre
• Weight gain
• Wearing tight underwear and trousers
• Oestrogen levels (hormones)

‘Hormones play a part, in particular oestrogen, the primary female sex hormone, although we don’t yet know why,’ says Shotter.

One theory is that oestrogen can encourage your body to produce more fat. So an imbalance between oestrogen and testosterone levels often causes cellulite. Taking the pill also increases your chances of getting it.

Another thought is that cellulite gets worse as women approach menopause because oestrogen levels decline. ‘Declining oestrogen levels cause fat cells to become larger, therefore making cellulite more visible,’ says Shotter.

As we said, it’s still a grey area. However, the reason more women get cellulite than men is the structure of our collagen - the main protein that makes up connective tissue. ‘In women the connective tissue bands are arranged vertically, allowing for fat to become compartmentalised in the pockets in between,' explains Shotter. 'In men, they follow a criss-cross pattern, which makes this less likely.'

Genetics also play a part, as your vulnerability to cellulite seems to be at least partly inherited. ‘This can come from genetic factors linked to the speed of metabolism, distribution of fat under the skin and ethnicity,’ she adds.

How to prevent cellulite from getting worse?

'Having more fat on your body makes cellulite more likely,' says Dr Selezneva simply. 'However as everybody has fat on their bodies, no-one is immune to cellulite. There are plenty of techniques to help stimulate blood flow, aid lymphatic drainage and therefore optimise the function of the lymphatic, vascular and muscle systems.'

She recommends:

• Consistent massage in the desired area can help reduce cellulite
• Drinking water – improves blood circulation and lymphatic drainage
• Exercise such as squats, steps, lunges etc. help target the thigh and abdomen area where cellulite is often found
• Lifestyle and dietary changes – avoid sitting in the same position for too long, if you lead a sedentary lifestyle or have an office job try to increase your movement, consider a standing desk or take walks throughout the working day

There are of course a few different treatments, from body brushes to our pick of the best cellulite creams and serums, that go some way to helping you work out how to get rid of cellulite. In our experience, a combination of a few tends to make the most difference.

1. Body brushing

Use a body brush at least three times a week and then rub one of the best cellulite creams into your skin afterwards.

‘Dry brushing can help to boost circulation, helping with oxygen delivery to affected areas and encouraging collagen production,’ says Shotter. ‘It also helps to improve lymphatic drainage.’

Toxins, which can build up in your layers of fat, and excess fluid are then eliminated in your waste.

2. Massage

When you apply your cellulite cream, be sure to massage it in to increase blood circulation and reduce excessive amounts of fluid in areas that contain cellulite.

It's also thought that by rubbing the skin, you cause it to temporarily swell for a more even-looking canvas.

If you are particularly concerned about cellulite and are struggling to treat it at home on yourself, Dr Selezneva recommends the in-clinic Endospheres treatment. The involves using a device that produces a vibration and pressure combination that performs ‘vascular gymnastics’ on the body. This ‘workout’ generates the drainage of fluids, re-compacting of skin tissues and removal of the cellulite effect from under the skin’s surface.

'Non-surgical aesthetic treatments have taken the world by storm and the results achieved are phenomenal,' says Dr Selezneva. 'I’ve been so impressed with the proven results of Endospheres technology and how it helps my clients reach their desired goals in clinic, I find a lot of my patients are keen to combat those tricky areas of the body such as the stomach, thighs, and upper arms and Endospheres offers the ultimate targeted approach. Combined with a healthy lifestyle the results are amazing. Not only is it wonderful for those with concerns around their body, but it can also be used on the face as an to help tone those muscles, combat sagging and wrinkles and generally lift the face.'

Ingredients to look for

Be on the lookout for caffeine or retinol.

'Caffeine increases circulation to the affected area,' says Shotter. 'It is also thought to aid lipolysis, a process where the body sheds fat cells and skin appears temporarily smoother. Retinol, meanwhile, helps boost collagen production over time.'

And the thicker the skin is, the less visible cellulite bumps poking through will be. Expert thinking currently suggests applying a cream with retinol first, followed by one with caffeine.

Other key ingredients are L carnitine, an amino acid that aids with fat burning, and antioxidants to protect collagen. 'Additionally, centella asiatica increases blood flow and allows for better nutrient absorption,' says Shotter.

But don't expect miracles right away. Stick at it and combine your cream application with a low-salt diet, exercises to build lean muscle and drink plenty of water to flush out toxins. You should start to notice a marked difference in a matter of weeks.

Best cellulite creams 2022

The beauty team were more than happy to test products that promise to tone, tighten and smooth skin. However, they were careful to pay close attention to what was being promised by a brand, the formulas ingredients, the price and, of course, the results.

https://www.marieclaire.co.uk/beauty/augustinus-bader-the-body-cream-667759

The warm weather has arrived, so lots of us are giving our winter-worn skin a warm wash of colour. But we don't always get it right, there are some very obvious telltale signs. This is why, alongside your best fake tan, you need to know how to remove fake tan when things go wrong (particularly when you're left with Wotsit hands).

Knowing how to remove fake tan is one of life's most important lessons. You might have had a fully-fledged tanning disaster (we're talking patchy wrists, fluorescent elbows and fingers so multi-tonal that gloves are in order). Or you might simply want to get rid of a four-day-old glow that's looking a little stripy. We've all been there, and we'll all be there again. So the art of fake tan removal is something that everyone should be up to speed on.

Yes, even if you've invested in the formula (even gradual tan can go wrong) and swotted up on all the fake tan tips, chances are you're not going to get it right 100% of the time. But don't worry, you're not alone and it's perfectly easy to rectify.

There are several things you can do to get rid of orange patches in unwanted places. We spoke to Jules Von Hep, fake tan guru, celebrity spray tanner and founder of Isle of Paradise, and Claire Lambert, tanning expert at Skinny Tan, for all the fake tan removal tips and tricks you could possibly ask for.

How to remove fake tan from hands, feet and ankles

Patchy hands and blotchy feet are often the biggest giveaways that your tanning sesh has gone wrong, but before you go reaching for a pair of gloves, know that it's totally possible to rectify—even without a fake tan remover.

In fact, a kitchen cupboard staple could be the answer to your prayers.

Add two tablespoons of baking soda to some water and mix to create a paste. Rub this over your hands or feet, leaving it on for a few minutes to ensure you haven't missed any particularly bad creases. Then wash it off.

Another way to wave goodbye to streakiness is to run a bath and fill it up with bath oil. This will soften the tan. While you're in there, use a remover mitt in circular motions. It will ensure that any stubborn patches are evenly removed. Simple!

How to remove fake tan at home

First things first: "Don't panic scrub," Jules warns. "You'll end up taking the tan off in patches and it’ll become a snowballing effect."

Instead, try using a light body polish (choose from our round-up of the best body scrubs) mixed with a tiny amount of body oil and repeat a couple of times for an even, all-over fade.

Oil helps to break down the DHA (colour element) in self-tanning fluid. This is a good thing to bear in mind if you've just had a cracking spray tan; don't moisturise your body with anything containing oil afterwards.

Alternatively, make a trip down to your local swimming pool if you don't mind being a bit stripy in public. "The chlorine will break down the tan," explains Jules. "In the showers afterwards, take a pair of exfoliating gloves and work in circular motions. Steam rooms and saunas will soften the tan, too."

If you've missed patches, this can be rectified with fast-acting products. "If you’ve missed a spot, my all time favourite product is the Skinny Tan 1-Day Instant Tan! It is splash proof and you literally just pop it on and it will hide any mistakes in a hurry. This is what I would suggest if you are in a rush," says Claire.

If it's all gone to pot and you need to get rid of your tan straight away, tanning brands now have products specifically developed to break colour down. That way you can remove fake tan quickly.

"If you have a bit more time and would like a permanent fix, you can use the Skinny Tan Miracle Tan Eraser and be really gentle to scrub around the mishap area, then go over with a fresh patch of tan," Claire adds.

How to remove fake tan patches before re-applying

If you're a regular, self-confessed tanning addict who can't go a day slathering on some more glow, then it's actually so important that you are removing your old tan before applying your new one.

Being the clever chap that he is, Jules created Isle of Paradise's Over It, which works best on a three-day-old tan. It also contains glycolic acid to exfoliate skin. Mist your entire body until your skin is saturated, wait five minutes, then jump in the shower and buff it off with a sponge or a flannel.

How to remove fake tan with lemon juice

Vaguely remember hearing something about lemons and brushing it off as an old wives tale? Turns out there's something in it. 'The old faithful combination of lemons and sugar mixed together will work to an extent, but you really need a mitt or glove to get deeper,' Jules explains.

It's also worth investing in an exfoliating mitt that will help to remove tan build-up or mistakes. It's an essential item in the at-home tanning kit.

How to remove fake tan from your face

Removing fake tan from your face is an altogether more delicate process. You've invested in the best eye cream, are religious about applying the best SPF moisturisers, and can't go a week without a restorative face mask – so vigorously scrubbing your skin to try and remove fake tan from it probably isn't the best idea.

Enter: your favourite face peel. Liquid exfoliators are a great way of removing face fake tan and taking care of your skin at the same time. Simply dispense a few drops onto one of the best reusable make-up pads and sweep over freshly cleansed skin. Whether your go-to chemical exfoliator is AHA or BHA, these clever acids remove build-up of old skin cells – and with them, your old fake tan – while improving skin tone and texture. So it's a double win.

How to remove fake tan from clothes

Getting fake tan stains on your favourite, goes-with-everything, white shirt or your super spenny The White Company bedsheets can be an absolute nightmare. You need to try and remove the stain while it is still wet.

Reversing the fabric and running it under cold water will help to loosen the product, but try not to rub it as you could end up smearing it and making it far worse. Instead, mix warm water and some detergent and sponge onto the affected area, repeating until the stain has disappeared.

So there we have it. We've just solved all future fake tan disasters from happening. Well, perhaps not all. There'll always be one...

Fake tan removal essentials:

Welcome to SkinCERT

To us at Marie Claire, skincare is synonymous with self-care and SkinCERT is our new beauty franchise to help you navigate this world, giving you the science, technology and new innovations that you need to make sense of it all. It’s also here to inspire you all to commit to yourselves to skincare everyday, as we believe it really helps not just our complexions, but our mental and emotional health too.

Quality skincare is key as we no longer want to rely on the superficiality of highlighters or concealers but look at skin’s underlying health. We all want products that target specific needs such as rosacea, pigmentation and acne as well as products that strengthen our skin’s microbiome. Let's face it, SPFs and antioxidants are at the top of our agendas more than ever these days.

Here we are focusing on education as it is time we all became more clued up on our own needs so that we buy products that are suitable for our skin type and concerns instead of the latest skincare trend. We aim to give you the confidence to delve into and understand clinical trials, science-backed creds and clinical efficacy, simplified formulations and routines.

Our experienced beauty team will come back with dermatologist and cosmetic doctor-backed answers to your questions and will make sure you can trust every product or treatment review.

Skincare is the trailblazer in the future growth of the beauty industry - and with global sales set to hit £126bn by 2025, it’s worth knowing how to navigate a market that is expanding quickly. Here’s your guide to what’s going to be big, next - and the factors driving the changes:

Only trust a skincare expert

First up, you are likely to notice yet more ingredient focus and transparency available when you buy your face cream. “Ingredient-first indie brands such as the Inkey List are furthering their focus on education, with the brand's London-based pop-up store offering and in-person askINKEY service, where consumers can get the advice of an expert, and also create a skin care profile, allowing them to build a custom routine,” says Amy Rollinson, Senior Beauty Analyst at Euromonitor International. “While social platforms remain a large part of the consumer education journey, influencer trust is waning and consumers instead rely on organic content, mimicking advice from friends and family, or expert advice, with dermatology accounts such as @dermdoctor on TikTok, particularly performing well.”

Treat skincare as selfcare

You can thank the pandemic for this one: we are seeing a rise in all things wellness-related in skincare, with google searches for ‘self-care’ having risen by 100 per cent in the last five years, and, as a result, brands are embracing the ‘inside outside’ approach to skin care, with our faces being a barometer of our inner health – linked to our gut, hormone balance, and psychological well-being.

Know your actives

With the cost-of-living squeeze, we are becoming laser-focussed on value and want hardworking, reparative actives and plant-based ingredients that rejuvenate at a lasting, deeper level. Online searches for specific active ingredients such as azelaic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, and new trends such as fermented skincare, waterless beauty, mineral SPF, and mushrooms are still rising as we are eager to learn more about the power of science before we spend our money. Celebrity facialist Sarah Chapman has noticed this shift. “High-tech skincare used to be daunting, but now customers are more confident in understanding the results of clinical trials and delving into the science behind ingredients.”

Streamline your skincare

If you have lots of products cluttering up your bathroom, expect to see a move towards streamlining your skincare as we realise too much can have a negative effect on our skin, on our minds, and on the planet. Sunscreen will remain a staple for most (as it absolutely should - it is a vital step to reducing the risk of cancer and of premature ageing).

“Nowadays, you can easily pick up potent skincare ingredients and be told how to use them by unqualified and inexperienced influencers. Actives are good, but people are mixing too many, overusing them, or using a higher strength than necessary causing havoc for the skin. We will be seeing more targeted but kinder skin routines, says skin expert Debbie Thomas, founder of D.Thomas Skin Specialist Clinic. “If you can't get to a professional then simplify your routine. If you like the sound of a new ingredient, introduce just one item at a time and start slowly with products like acids or retinol. Actives are not the enemy; bad advice and inexperience are.”

Zoom boom tweakments

Then there’s the post-pandemic professional skincare boom as a result of ‘Zoom face’; “constantly seeing your face ‘live’ on screen isn’t something we are used to," says Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, founder of Adonia Medical Clinic. "We start to analyse our facial expressions, the way we talk and start to notice every line, wrinkle, spot or saggy bit. I have seen a huge rise in people seeking treatments to improve the neck and chin area, which is clearly to do with the unflattering angles created by forward facing cameras. Under eye circles caused by volume loss are also a requested area for treatment, which are highlighted by poor lighting. This has led to the rise of treatments such as Profhilo, hyaluronic acid which helps to hydrate the neck, HIFU: skin tightening procedure excellent for boosting collagen firming and Microneedling with radiofrequency, excellent for tightening.”

Explore the mind-skin connection

Psychodermatology is a growing field in treating stress-related skin issues. The normalisation of conversations around mental health has accelerated thanks to the Gen Z-ers who are more likely to open up about their psychological concerns. This year, mental health is a huge focus for beauty companies as we look for products that offer moments of calm and sensorial experiences through touch, fragrance and texture to support mental and emotional well-being.

“You can’t deny that a beauty ritual at the beginning and end of our day helps induce a feeling of calm, relaxation, a sense of control, and more emotional balance,” says psychotherapist Lee Pycroft, who also works as an A-list makeup artist. “Plus, looking after your skin can build confidence and the act of caring for yourself can boost feelings of self-worth.”

Brands that put mental health at the top of their agenda include Plenaire, a skincare line for teenagers, which embeds positive messages within its products and packaging, showing diverse faces, people with disabilities and others in highly vulnerable positions. Namrata Nayyar-Kamdar, the founder is a firm believer that mental health is intrinsically linked to skincare and noticed that the language used by brands to target youth was also outdated.

Psychotherapist Charlotte Ferguson founded London-based skincare brand Disciple: “Unsurprisingly factors such as anxiety and stress can have a negative impact on your complexion; acne, eczema and premature ageing are common side effects of demanding lifestyles and over 75% of these skin issues are caused by stress-induced inflammation.”

Key dermatologists have been quoted as saying that at least 40% of their patients' cases are unsolvable without addressing the underlying emotional factors involved.

“While anxiety is the most common condition my patients bring, persistent low mood is a close second and affects the skin in different ways – your immune system is more vulnerable, cell turnover slows and the skin's natural healing capacity is reduced. Pain receptors are more sensitive, meaning that skin conditions such as psoriasis, eczema and adult acne can become more painful, slower to heal, and more likely to become infected. Collagen is also depleted, meaning the signs of premature ageing become more pronounced,” says Ferguson.

Believe ageing is a gift

We are finally shifting away from the ‘anti-ageing’ notion and instead focusing on products that target specific skincare needs like skin sensitivity and dehydration or hormonally-driven changes. Brands are also continuing to use more ethnicity, gender and age-inclusive marketing and are breaking down the myths that skincare needs to be divided into different categories according to the age, sex, and skin type of the consumer.

Laura Cummins, Global Lead of Innovation, Whitespace and Trends at Avon says: “There has been an evolution in the way we think about getting older, as the pandemic made it very clear to us that ageing is a gift. This has resulted in the desire for healthy skin that looks and feels strong, radiant, resilient and glows with vitality for a lit-from-within look that reflects our love for life. We will focus on progress over perfection and nurture our skin from a place of care rather than a place of fear. We have realised that women get so much better with age, why would we want to hide that? We are so much more than what is reflected in the mirror. I like who I am now and I like what I look like, and not only is that ok – it shouldn’t be revolutionary, it should be the norm.”

Welcome biotech ingredients

As we are broadening our skincare knowledge, the desire for potent ingredients offering hardworking ‘nutrition' for skin that rejuvenates at a deeper level through potency, penetration, and preservation rather than trauma is growing.

“The aim of any natural and effective bio-tech ingredient is to be welcomed into skin cell kinship right down to the mitochondria level where possible. It's possible to party crash of course with synthetics masquerading as friends of the family - but why knock yourself out when there are a myriad of naturally symbiotic and gentle other choices?” says Paul Berrow, founder of 320 Mhz, a targeted and clinically-trialed natural concentrates brand.

Debbie Thomas agrees “we will hear more about ATP (skin cell energy), and specific products and treatments that boost ATP that don’t involve traditional trauma (e.g. controlled damage to trigger repair). This means no inflammation. A new generation of professional and home care products are able to activate cell energy, meaning skin rejuvenation without any damage. We offer two new treatments: The byonik cold laser and the Circadia Switch treatment. Both support and trigger ATP without the typical ‘damage to trigger healing’.”

The Sex and the City star speaks to Marie Claire about her battle with rosacea and why she feels more beautiful now than ever before

'Rosacea treatment', 'what causes rosacea?' and 'the best products for a rosacea skincare routine' are all things you've probably stamped into your search bar if you live with the condition. Sometimes, a Google Search can leave you at a loose end, wondering if there's any advice from real people who can give you rosacea help.

Well, we've only gone and got you And Just Like That's Miranda. Here, Cynthia Nixon shares why she feels more beautiful now, at 56 years old, than she ever did back in her Sex And The City heyday. We'll let you into a secret: it's because she's finally learnt how to deal with her rosacea.

Cynthia has a very personal history with the skin issue which causes facial redness and breakouts. Back in 2014, she served as a spokesperson for a global awareness campaign Act on Red, which urged sufferers to seek rosacea help. Speaking to Rosacea Review, the actress shared that figuring out her triggers is key to managing her skin: 'My Dad is from Texas, so I'm a hard-core jalapeño and barbecue sauce girl,' she said, adding that she now knows these foods make her rosacea worse and she works hard to avoid them.

When we caught up with her, she was eager to share her rosacea help tips and wisdom on natural treatments for rosacea that she's gathered battling with the condition.

Here are Cynthia's top tips for dealing with rosacea:

1. Know what you're dealing with

'I had my rosacea diagnosed about five years ago, and it made such a difference in my life,' Cynthia says. Before her diagnosis, she assumed her skin problems were acne-related and was treating them as such. 'Everything I was doing to try to improve my skin was really exacerbating the problem.'

2. Banish harsh facial scrubs and cleansers

After Cynthia visited a dermatologist for rosacea help, she asked her to describe her skincare routine. 'I said, "Oh I clean my face very thoroughly, I'm very diligent about it. I do a lot of antibacterial washes and exfoliant scrubs and a lot of peels."

'And she said, "You've got to stop all of those things right now. That's the worst thing you can do because you're treating this as if it's acne, a bacterial condition where you have to scrub away that bacteria. But in fact, it's a vascular condition. So the more harsh things you do to your skin, the more your blood vessels are going to get inflamed and the redness and the breakouts will come with it.'

3. Limit red wine

For Cynthia, red wine is one of the biggest culprits leading to a rosacea flare-up. 'It's not like you can never have a glass of red wine again,' she says. 'But you might not want to do it when you're at an important event where you're going to be photographed.'

And we're sorry to burst your bubble, but white wine can also be a trigger, as with all forms of alcohol. However, red wine tends to be the most likely to cause a flare-up.

4. Rethink that spicy curry

Just like that glass of merlot you're drinking, spicy foods can trigger rosacea symptoms. So if you're on a hot date, maybe go for the tikka masala instead of the vindaloo.

5. Drink loads of water

For Cynthia, staying hydrated and drinking water helps keep her skin looking good. It also means that her makeup goes on more easily (we've covered the best makeup for rosacea, here). Getting a good amount of water into your system has plenty of other health benefits, too.

6. Keep your skin moisturised

'I do spend a lot of time moisturising with creams and also with oils,' she says. 'And I carry stuff with me during the day to make sure my skin stays hydrated.'

7. Wash your face once a day

When it comes to your skincare routine, it's important not to overdo it. 'I wash my face once at night and that's it,' Cynthia says. 'I've gone from kind of giving my skin a workout to kind of treating my skin more like a princess that needs to be pampered.'

8. Avoid caking on make-up

'I have to say, one of the things I've found - particularly as I've gotten older - is that makeup is a wonderful enhancer, but you really should wear as little as possible,' she says. 'But when I had my rosacea, that really wasn't an option [when I was filming Sex and the City]. We'd really just pile it on and cover it up, like spackle almost. That doesn't look good -, particularly after a few hours. Nothing will age you faster than that.'

9. Know that you're not alone

Rosacea has been estimated to affect around 45 million people worldwide. So if your symptoms are hurting your self-esteem, it can be comforting to know that others share your pain. 'I think we all know this: When our skin looks bad, we just feel bad about ourselves,' Cynthia says. 'For whatever psychological reason, we value clear skin. And for me personally, when my skin is looking good, it just makes it that much easier to go out in the world and feel confident and feel that people aren't looking sideways at me.'

10. Try to stay positive

'I feel like rosacea is just one of those things that can be such a downer. It's such an impediment to looking your best and feeling your best. But the good news is that once you know what it is and once your doctor tells you the right course of treatment to do, it really is pretty simple to deal with in most cases.' If you experience facial redness, breakouts or visible blood vessels, see your doctor to find out if you have rosacea.

When you have a persistent skin condition, all you really want to know is what causes it and how can I treat it? In terms of rosacea treatment, you can arm yourself with the correct skincare routine, make the necessary changes to your lifestyle and use the best make-up for rosacea to ease your symptoms and neutralise the redness. But when it comes to the cause, it's a slightly trickier question to answer. So we asked dermatologists and skincare experts, what causes rosacea?

What causes rosacea?

Rather annoyingly, there isn't really a known route cause of rosacea. 'We don’t know the exact cause, but we do know is that there are several things that can increase your risk of having it,' says Dr Kemi Fabusiwa, aka Dr Fab, founder of the Joyful Skin clinic. 'Those who are most at risk are fair-skinned women between the ages of 20 and 50, but actually anybody can have it. Risk factors for rosacea that you can control include alcohol, spicy foods, UV radiation from the sun and your levels of stress.'

'There are many potential contributing factors [of rosacea]; an impaired skin barrier can allow irritants to enter the skin, causing inflammation. Free radical damage can also play a part in intensifying inflammation,' explains Daniel Isaacs, Director of Research at Medik8. 'That’s why we advise those with rosacea to implement daily sun protection (something like the best facial sunscreens) as well as anti-pollution skincare in their regimes.

'Abnormalities in blood flow through facial blood vessels can cause flushing and persistent redness, and having a family member with rosacea may also make you more prone to developing the condition. Rosacea has also been linked to certain bacteria found in the gut, which may play a role in developing it.'

Medical and cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross agrees that lifestyle habits play a big part in it. He has seen a spike in the issue as a result of people wearing masks, thanks to Covid-19. 'Recent studies have found that masks can cause those with pre-existing rosacea to flare up as the fabric rubs and irritates the skin.'

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Rosacea triggers

To those that suffer from rosacea, 'what are my triggers?' is probably a more important question than 'what causes rosacea'? Lex Gillies was diagnosed with rosacea when she was 21. She blogs about skincare and nail art as Talonted Lex and is a rosacea ambassador for the British Skin Foundation. 'Over time, I have identified most of my triggers and learned to remove them or minimise them as much as possible – which is often easier said than done!' she says.

'My main trigger is definitely stress. And although I've made some changes to reduce my stress levels – including leaving a very intense job – some stress is unavoidable.

'My other triggers are common ones,' she adds. 'Extremes of temperature – hot showers, the hair dryer – the sun, air conditioning, alcohol, hot drinks, and certain skincare ingredients. It was a long process to isolate what makes my skin unhappy. It was also hard to accept such drastic changes to my lifestyle.

'At times it felt insurmountable, but I've found a great balance with my rosacea. If I want a huge plate of cheese or a glass of wine after a bad day, I'll weigh up that need against how my skin will react. Sometimes it's worth it, sometimes it's not. But once you know your skin better, it gives you the control to choose how you deal with it.'

The skincare industry keeps growing at a rapid speed. There are now more brands than ever, must-have products each day and ingredients that promise the world. But when we were told by one person that azelaic acid had been a 'gamechanger' for their rosacea we knew we needed to know more.

What is Azelaic Acid? 

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid. It's produced naturally by yeast that lives on healthy skin. For the purposes of skincare, it's made from grains such as barley and wheat.

It is a much-loved ingredient for those that have acne-prone skin, rosacea and hyperpigmentation, as it works well as an efficient treatment against all three.

A slosh on the skin has the same effect as a mild, leave-on exfoliant. It helps to unclog pores, making it the best acne treatment, and leaves the skin's surface impossibly smooth.

'One of the main uses of azelaic acid is to block the enzyme tyrosinase,' says medical and cosmetic consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto. 'Which causes excess melanin and uneven brown patches on the skin.' (Much in the same vein as a brilliant hyperpigmentation treatment.) 'As a result, it can also fade some of the marks left behind after acne.'

However, it also has a brilliant anti-inflammatory effect. 'This is especially useful for taking down redness in rosacea and spot-prone skin,' adds Mahto. 'In addition, it reduces 'follicular hyperkeratinisation - the abnormal shedding of skin cells, which is a key issue for acne sufferers.'

This is where our conversation with make-up artist Rose Gallagher, who has rosacea, comes in. 'Azelaic acid for me was the gamechanger in my rosacea treatment. It's the one ingredient that has not only changed the texture of my skin, but I also feel like my skin is less red. I still have my flare-ups, but some people will actually say "you don't look like you have rosacea" when I'm having a good skin day. And that is all because of azelaic acid.

Benefits of using it in your skincare routine

Azelaic acid can be prescribed in two concentrations: 15% (Finacea) and 20% (Skinoren). There are also over-the-counter creams and gels at 10% or less.

On the upside, even in lower concentrations, it delivers where skin freak-outs are concerned.

One study published in the Journal of Medical Sciences revealed that all 40 participants who used a 10% gel saw their mild to moderate acne improve after just eight weeks.

As with all acids, your skin may be more sensitive to UV rays. So Mahto emphasises the importance of incorporating an SPF into your morning skincare routine.

Here's the Marie Claire edit of the best products with azelaic acid...