The Beauty Digest is my Beauty Director’s edit of what’s actually worth your attention. Each week, I’ll be sharing the new launches I’m using and loving, the viral treatments I’m putting to the test (and what I really think of the results), plus my take on the industry conversations everyone’s talking about.

3 New Launches on My Radar

The Treatment Trial: A Love Letter to the Classic Massage

In true beauty journalist fashion, access to a spa is something of a holiday prerequisite for me. There's just something about booking in for a classic full-body massage on the first day that signals the start of the holiday and switches me firmly into relaxation mode. This week, while on a family holiday at Los Jardines de Abama Suites in Tenerife, I ventured to Sandára Wellness & Spa for its deep-tissue offering. It was 60 minutes of pure, unadulterated bliss, made all the better by the breathtaking views of the Atlantic from the hydrotherapy pools afterwards. Because while I love trying the latest high-tech treatment and buzz-worthy tweakment, sometimes nothing beats a really great massage.

Beauty Buzz: Max Mara Reveals First Perfume

A Max Mara 101801 coat is a permanent fixture on my winter wardrobe wish list. So classic, so elegant, and so discreetly expensive-looking, it’s one of those pieces that instantly make your entire wardrobe look more sophisticated. And now, Max Mara has bottled that exact effect with the launch of its first-ever fragrance, Le Parfum.

Unsurprisingly, the 101801 was the starting point. Designed to be worn almost like an olfactory cashmere coat, Le Parfum wraps sandalwood and cedarwood in creamy tuberose, warm vanilla and benzoin for a soft, musky scent that sits close to the skin. Even the bottle riffs on the house icon, with camel tones, gold accents and a lacquered ‘belt’ cinching its architectural glass silhouette. Consider this the significantly more attainable way to get some 101801 into your wardrobe.

One of the things I’m most proud of when it comes to the Marie Claire UK Skin Awards is the calibre of our judging panel. Every year, we bring together some of the most respected and knowledgeable names in the industry to rigorously test, review and rate the latest innovations in skincare.

And with innovation and research moving at an extraordinary pace, that level of expertise has never been so important. From sophisticated new formulations and emerging ingredients to groundbreaking treatments and technologies, skincare is evolving fast—and distinguishing genuine innovation from clever marketing requires people who really know their stuff.

That’s where our judges come in. From leading dermatologists and aesthetic doctors to product formulators, beauty experts and no-nonsense content creators, our panel represents an incredible breadth of knowledge and experience. Together, they put this year’s entries through their paces, scrutinising the claims, assessing the results, and ultimately deciding which products and treatments truly deserve a Marie Claire UK Skin Award.

So, with this year’s entries in and judging underway, it’s time to meet the brilliant people deciding the winners…

Dr Alia Ahmed

Dr Alia Ahmed is a Consultant Dermatologist with a specialist interest in psychodermatology, bridging skin health and psychological wellbeing. Passionate about holistic, patient-centred care, she helps individuals navigate the emotional and physical impact of skin conditions with compassion and expertise. Through her clinical practice, education, and advocacy, Dr Ahmed champions a more integrated approach to dermatology that recognises the profound relationship between mind and skin. She founded The Psychodermatologist and shares evidence-based insights with a wider audience through her platform, @the_psychodermatologist, empowering patients to feel confident in their skin and overall wellbeing.

Alice Hart-Davis

Alice Hart-Davis is a journalist with 25 years’ experience researching – and trying out - skincare and cosmetic treatments, so she knows what really works. She’s the founder of thetweakmentsguide.com, an online encyclopedia of independent information and videos about non-surgical procedures like fillers and lasers. Alice launched the site in 2019 to help people find out what cosmetic tweakments involve, which ones might work for their concerns, and to locate the best practitioners around the UK.

Alice Henshaw

Alice Henshaw, Founder and Medical Director of Harley Street Injectables, is a leading figure in the global medical aesthetics industry. Registered in the UK, New Zealand, and Australia, Alice has transformed from a cardiac nurse into a celebrated expert in advanced cosmetic procedures.

Since founding Harley Street Injectables in 2014, Alice’s injection expertise and dedication to personalised care have made her a key opinion leader in aesthetics. Her accolades include multiple awards for Best Clinic and Skin Treatments in London, and finalist nods for Best Aesthetic Nurse and Clinic in the UK.

Alice's success, marked by a diverse international clientele, stems from her commitment to delivering natural, long-lasting results through individualised care. She now extends this ethos to her latest venture, SkinCycles—a cosmeceutical skincare brand designed to support post-treatment skin rejuvenation, bringing clinic-level anti-ageing effects into the home.

Alicia Lartey

Dedicated to debunking misinformation within the booming business of skincare, Alicia educates her audience with detailed testimonials and honest reviews. Her frankness about the lack of inclusivity within the skincare space brought The Lartey Scale of Hyperpigmentation to life: an in-depth glossary into post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on all complexions. Alicia’s philosophy of efficacy and science backed ingredients is evident through her work as Head of Education and NPD at Supernova Body. More than this, her words can be found in publications like Cosmopolitan and Refinery29 where she unpacks beauty trends and how she’s come to find her footing within the industry.

Andrew Donaldson-Wheatcroft

Andrew Wheatcroft, unapologetically unfiltered, skincare aficionado and content creator. Known for his honest reviews, quick-witted humour and no BS approach.

Caroline Barnes

Caroline Barnes is one of the UK's most established and celebrated make-up artists. Known industry-wide for her passion, skill, and professionalism, she has built a reputation for approachable beauty that has helped her attract an enviable roster of clients, including Diane Kruger, Ruth Wilson, Rebecca Ferguson, Emma Watson, and Olga Kurylenko, as well as Kylie Minogue and Kelly Rowland. Caroline takes great satisfaction in creating beautiful red-carpet glamour and pushing creative boundaries for video and photo shoots.

Editorially and for advertising campaigns, she has worked with many of the world’s most famous photographers such as Rankin, Walter Chin and Ellen Von Unwerth, creating beauty and fashion shoots for publications like Harper's Bazaar, Marie Claire & Glamour, and campaigns for clients such as H&M, Max Factor, Olay and Maybelline.
Commercially,

Caroline has a YouTube channel, Speed Beauty by Caroline Barnes, offering expert beauty advice that is receiving well-deserved recognition. She also gives her time to the beauty industry charity Look Good Feel Better, using her ‘Midas touch’ to help restore confidence and wellbeing in women with cancer.

Debbie Thomas

Debbie Thomas is a leading laser expert and founder of the D.Thomas Clinic, renowned for science-led, results-driven skin treatments. With over 26 years in the industry and 40,000+ hours of hands-on experience, she’s known for pioneering advanced protocols across all skin tones. A British Beauty Council board member and key opinion leader, Debbie works closely with top manufacturers to drive innovation, safety, and regulation in aesthetics. Her expert approach blends cutting-edge technology with deep skin knowledge, making her one of the most trusted names in advanced skincare.

Dr Derrick Phillips

Dr Derrick Phillips is a leading consultant dermatologist based in London, seeing patients at OneWelbeck and Skin55 Dermatology. After graduating from UCL Medical School in 2011, he spent over a decade in the NHS, including a role as a consultant at the world-renowned Imperial College Healthcare NHS Trust, where he combined patient care with clinical research. Recognised for his work on sustainability, he received the British Association of Dermatologists’ Green Prize in 2022. As a spokesperson for the British Skin Foundation, Dr Phillips is a go-to expert for Harper’s, British Vogue, Marie Claire, Women’s Health, and has also shared expert insights on TV and radio.

Dr Ahmed El Muntasar

Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, an award-winning GP and renowned aesthetician, is revolutionising cosmetic medicine. A graduate of St. Andrews, Manchester, and UCL, he combines rigorous medical expertise with a passion for patient-centred care. Dr Ahmed owns three clinics across London, Leeds, and Cheshire, offering advanced non-surgical treatments rooted in science and safety. Also known as The Aesthetics Doctor on social media, he has over 1 million followers and is celebrated for championing diversity and inclusivity in aesthetics. Dr Ahmed is also dedicated to raising industry education standards, with plans to launch a teaching academy to train future practitioners.

Dr Anjali Mahto

Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist, bestselling author, and founder of Self London, an award-winning clinic specialising in intelligent, device-led skincare. With over 20 years of experience in both medical and aesthetic dermatology, she is known for her evidence-based approach and clinical integrity. Anjali is passionate about cutting through beauty industry noise to highlight what truly works, championing products rooted in science and real-world results. Her work focuses on acne, scarring, and skin ageing, with a deep understanding of both skin biology and patient psychology. She is widely respected for her honest, informed, and discerning voice in beauty.

Dr Ash Soni

Dr. Ash Soni is a fully qualified, UK- and US-trained aesthetic doctor and founder of The Soni Clinic. Trained at institutions including Imperial College London, NewYork-Presbyterian/Weill Cornell, Johns Hopkins Hospital, and The Royal Marsden, he specialises in non-surgical aesthetics and has locations in Ascot, Berkshire, and has recently taken up residency at Surrenne Belgravia at The Emory Hotel in London.

Dr BeiBei Du-Harpur

Dr Beibei Du is a Consultant Dermatologist and Clinical Lecturer at St John’s Institute of Dermatology, King’s College London. Her clinical practice focuses on acne and hidradenitis suppurativa, while her research explores the genetics and skin biology underlying inflammatory skin disease and inflammaging. She leads clinical trials and translational research to develop more personalised treatment approaches.

Alongside her academic work, she has collaborated with the skincare industry on evidence generation and product evaluation, with a particular interest in bridging advances in skin science and consumer skincare. She is passionate about promoting evidence-based dermatology and improving patient outcomes.

Dr Christine Hall

Dr Christine Hall is a GP and aesthetic doctor at the Taktouk Clinic in Knightsbridge, and one of the UK's leading voices on Korean beauty. Half Korean, she has been talking about K-beauty since 2016, long before it reached British shelves, and travels regularly to Asia working with brands. Named by Tatler as the medic of the moment in 2024 and the doctor who brought glass skin to the UK, she trained as a pharmacist before studying medicine, giving her a rare depth on ingredients and how they really work. Alongside her clinic practice, she works in NHS Emergency Medicine.

Dr Cristina Psomadakis

Consultant dermatologist Dr Cristina Psomadakis, known as Dr Soma, specialises in medical, surgical and cosmetic dermatology and practises at Welbeck and within the NHS. She holds a Master’s in Skin Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine and is Medical Director at Klira, a bespoke prescription skincare service. She is also the creator behind @dr.somaskin and has extensive experience in skincare product development, brand consultancy and education.

Dr David Jack

As one of London’s most influential aesthetic doctors, Dr David Jack is known worldwide for his subtle and tasteful approach to non-surgical cosmetic treatments.

Over his 15-year clinical career in plastic surgery and aesthetic medicine, Dr Jack has travelled extensively and gained experience across a wide range of surgical and medical specialities to hone his skills. He undertook rigorous training in specialist posts, including burns, microsurgery, internal medicine, hand surgery, surgical dermatology, and skin cancer, during his time in the NHS. He is a member of the Royal College of Surgeons of Edinburgh.

Dr David Jack has a unique approach to aesthetic medicine, based on surgical rationality, and always opts to treat in a way appropriate to the individual’s anatomy, rather than the cookie-cutter approach so commonly seen today.

Dr Elizabeth Hawkes

Dr Elizabeth Hawkes is a leading Consultant Oculoplastic Surgeon with an international reputation in blepharoplasty and aesthetic eye rejuvenation. An award-winning surgeon she is based in London and highly specialised in the delicate periocular region. Known for her meticulous surgical technique and holistic approach she combines medical, surgical and skincare strategies to achieve natural results. With her background as an Ophthalmologist, Dr Hawkes is passionate about eye health and is a strong advocate for safety in aesthetic practice. She is a trusted voice of authority in the media and among peers.

Dr Kemi Fabusiwa

Dr Kemi Fabusiwa is a London-based doctor, skin enthusiast, and content creator making beauty make sense. She runs the skincare platform Joyful Skin and creates content that blends clinical science with cultural relevance—smart, unfiltered, and always skin-first.

Dr Marwa Ali

Dr Marwa Ali, is a distinguished aesthetic doctor based in London and the resident expert at the prestigious Wellness Clinic in Harrods. Trained at St George’s and holding a postgraduate diploma in cosmetic dermatology, she brings many years of advanced experience to her practice. Known for her nuanced, “less is more” approach, Dr Ali offers bespoke treatments including Botox, dermal fillers, HIFU, microneedling/ RF and laser therapy. She is passionate about enhancing, never altering, natural aesthetics and frequently employs tailored, multimodal strategies for facial and body rejuvenation.

A recognised leader, Dr Ali speaks at industry events across the globe, educating and shaping future-facing skin solutions. Dr Ali’s mission is to offer patients a convenient, easy way to book treatments and stay informed with her trusted skincare insights, always in a discreet and supportive environment.

Dr Maryam Zamani

Dr Maryam Zamani is the founder of the multi-award-winning MZ SKIN brand and a globally recognised expert in Oculoplastic Surgery and Facial Aesthetics, with over 20 years of clinical experience in the US and UK. A pioneer in modern skincare and an exceptional surgeon, she is known as "the eye doctor" for her unmatched expertise in eyelid surgery and skin rejuvenation. Dr Zamani combines medical precision with a deep understanding of the female aesthetic, delivering natural, elegant results. Her innovative approach bridges science and beauty, cementing her status as a true leader in aesthetics and skincare innovation worldwide.

Dr Sophie Shotter

Dr Sophie Shotter is the Founder & Medical Director of Illuminate Skin Clinic in Kent and Harley Street, London. Her passion is for helping people to age as the best version of themselves, inside and out. Through a combination of skincare, longevity measures and in clinic treatments, Dr Shotter takes her patients on this journey.

Dr Sophie has been widely recognised in the UK as one of its top injectors by the likes of Tatler, Vogue & Harper’s Bazaar, and works closely with Allergan as part of their International Faculty, as well as being a Key Opinion Leader for numerous other brands. She was proud to be awarded the Aesthetic Medical Practitioner of the Year Award at the Aesthetics Awards, 2023. Dr Shotter also launched a podcast—Age Well with Dr Sophie Shotter—in November 2023, which is already in the top 10% most listened to podcasts globally.

Dr Stefanie Williams

Multi-award-winning Dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams is founder and Medical Director at Eudelo Dermatology & Skin Wellbeing in Central London. She is a GMC registered doctor, German qualified dermatologist, author, international speaker, and key opinion leader in the industry. With a special interest in the management of adult acne, rosacea and skin ageing, Dr Stefanie has published in-depth reports on these topics, and in 2019 she founded Delo Rx, a revolutionary anti-ageing skincare range for women with breakout-prone skin.

Dr Wassim Taktouk

Dr Wassim Taktouk is an award-winning aesthetic doctor and founder and Medical Director of Taktouk Clinic in London. A member of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine, he has a Postgraduate Diploma in Dermatology and is known for his expertise in injectables and a natural-results approach to aesthetics. He also co-founded the London Academy of Aesthetic Medicine, where he trains and mentors medical professionals in aesthetic practice.

Dr Emma Craythorne

Dr Emma Craythorne MBChB FRCP is a Consultant Dermatologist and Mohs micrographic and laser surgeon at Guy’s and St Thomas’ NHS Trust and One Welbeck. She is the founder of Klira, a digital platform delivering personalised, effective luxury skincare through bespoke epigenetic SkinSize™ analysis and medical-grade formulations. Emma is widely known as the host of The Bad Skin Clinic, aired in over 100 countries, and presenter of TLC’s Save My Skin, treating complex skin conditions. She also hosts the After Hours Skin Clinic podcast, making dermatology relatable through science-led discussion. She is a former President of the British Cosmetic Dermatology Group and a Trustee of the Cosmetic Practice Standards Authority.

Fiona Brackenbury

With a career spanning over 35 years in the Skincare industry, Fiona Brackenbury has worked passionately to become a true expert in her field and one of the authority leaders of skincare in the UK. Fiona has played a multi-faceted role in the skincare industry from treating celebrity clients to designing facials and treatments. With an encyclopedic knowledge of the skin, ingredients, and products, and working with the labs on global product launches & education her passion and heart truly lies in the skincare industry.

Madeleine Spencer

Madeleine Spencer is a journalist and broadcaster who has contributed to titles including The Times, Grazia, Glamour, InStyle, The Independent, Stylist, and The London Standard, as well as offering commentary for the BBC, Sky News, and ITV.

M

Creating new, modern approaches to skin health, Melanie Grant has distinguished herself as a passionate advocate for innovation and holistic education in aesthetic skin improvement.

Across her practices in Sydney, Melbourne, Los Angeles, New York City, and London, Melanie specialises in bespoke treatments designed to improve and enhance skin. With more than 25 years of experience working with clients across a range of demanding professions, Melanie is renowned for her deft touch and refined aesthetic, earning her a devoted following and recognition as an authority in her field.

Michaella Bolder

Michaella Bolder is known for “The Bolder Method” bespoke facial massage treatment. After 18 years of industry experience, she shares her advice and tips with her community both online and in the clinic. Catch her behind the scenes skin prepping for TV, Film and red carpet in between client clinic days.

Mina Lee

Mina Lee is a South Korean skincare expert, aesthetic practitioner and founder and creative director of MinaLee.London, her Chelsea-based facial studio. With more than 20 years’ experience, she previously worked as a laser therapist, head therapist and trainer at a leading London medical spa, and was the first UK national trainer for Biologique Recherche. She is known for combining advanced aesthetics with Korean healing practices and highly personalised, holistic treatments.

Nausheen Qureshi

Nausheen Qureshi is a biochemist and product innovator behind many of the high-profile figures and cosmetic brands worldwide. She is known for her creative formulations and designs technologies and helps manufacture cosmetic products. The beauty products that she designs and creates have won multiple awards worldwide. Her modern upgrades and expertise in product creation, innovation and technology have achieved unprecedented results in independent clinical trials.

Ola Awosika

Ola blends relatable comedy and expert skincare and beauty knowledge into his brutally honest product reviews, insider tips, and pop culture commentary. From skincare reviews to cultural talking points, he strikes the balance between education and humour, breaking down complex beauty topics in a way that’s approachable and fun.

Paige Tracey

Paige Tracey is the Consumer PR Manager at Soil Association Certification, leading on the consumer education on what organic is, how it answers to consumer’s concerns as well as spotlighting organic brands doing innovative things in the sector. Paige began her career at SA Cert in 2021 on the Organic Beauty and Wellbeing working her way up to becoming Partnerships Manager for Beauty and Textiles. She has been recognised for her strong impact to date in the world of organic, being named one of Natural Product News’s “30 under Thirty” finalists for two years running.

Ruby Hammer MBE

Ruby Hammer MBE is one of the beauty industry’s most respected and enduring voices, with over four decades of experience as a makeup artist, brand advisor, and product innovator. Renowned for her modern, inclusive approach, she combines deep technical knowledge with a discerning eye for quality and performance. Ruby’s career has spanned editorial shoots, global runways, and television, giving her a rare, 360-degree perspective on what truly works. As a judge for the Marie Claire Skincare Awards, she brings expert insight, integrity, and a passion for intelligent beauty—championing products that deliver both real results and meaningful impact.

Dr Sarah Tonks

With degrees in both medicine and dentistry, Dr. Sarah Tonks developed a deep appreciation for the delicate architecture of the face and the emotional power of aesthetic treatments. In 2013, she established TLC (The Lovely Clinic) to offer a more thoughtful, honest, and innovative alternative to the 'standard' medispa—instead, TLC focuses on treating people as whole individuals, not just fixing isolated concerns.

Dr. Tonks has performed over 45,000 procedures and built a reputation for her advanced work in regenerative injectables like JULÄINE, and Sciton laser technologies including BBL, HEROic, MOXI, and HALO.

Teresa Tarmey

Teresa Tarmey is one of the UK’s leading skin experts, with over 27 years of experience and more than 50,000 hours of hands-on skin treatments. Known for her results-driven approach, Teresa is trusted by some of the world’s most recognisable faces and industry insiders. Her treatments are celebrated for blending cutting-edge technology with deep skin knowledge, and her namesake product line reflects the same ethos: science-led formulations, real results and expert-level quality. Teresa’s approach focused on healthy skin that looks and feels its best, refined by her many years of experience treating real skin.

Dr Thivi Maruthappu

Dr Thivi Maruthappu MA PhD FRCP ANutr is a Consultant Dermatologist, Nutritionist and Researcher. As the UK’s first dual-qualified Dermatologist and Nutritionist, her pioneering expertise bridges the gap between diet and skin health.

After months spent basking in the sunshine, you may start to notice increased pigmentation and other signs of sun damage appearing on your skin come September. While it can be an unwelcome consequence of summer, it’s incredibly common—and the good news is there are plenty of ways to help repair and restore sun-damaged skin.

"Sun damage is one of the most significant threats to skin health and it impacts the skin in a range of ways," says Dr Leah Totton, a medical and cosmetic doctor and founder of Dr Leah Clinics. Many of us don't realise sun damage is happening until well after summer, which is why understanding causes, prevention, and repair is so crucial to avoid long-term problems.

From beginner-friendly retinol and salon treatments that support repair to SPF moisturisers and foundations that ward off further damage, here's what you need to know about treating sun-damaged skin.

What are the signs of sun damage?

"Common signs of sun-damaged skin include sunburn in the short term. But longer term the signs of sun damage include increased pigmentation in the form of freckles and moles, melasma age spots that can appear on exposed areas, actinic keratoses which are rough scaly patches, and broken enlarged blood vessels typically around the nose and cheeks," explains Dr Leah.

"UV radiation also breaks down collagen and elastin, which leads to a loss of skin elasticity resulting in sagging skin and fine lines. One of the most common signs of sun damage that we see people seeking to address in clinic are age spots, melasma and hyperpigmentation—all of which are extremely common towards the end of the summer."

Can sun damage be reversed?

"Sun damage occurs primarily from UV radiation which impacts the skin in two main ways," explains Dr Leah. "UVB rays damage DNA in skin cells, creating structural errors, whereas UVA rays generate oxidative damage that breaks down collagen and elastin, resulting in wrinkles and sagging skin.

"Sun damage can be partially reversed through a combination of topical products, in-clinic treatments, and consistent sun protection, however not all the damage can be fully undone." That's why keeping on top of SPF application is so crucial year-round, but particularly throughout the summer months.

What products or treatments should I use to target sun damage?

"Topical ingredients that can help to treat sun damage include retinoids, vitamin C and AHAs," says Dr Leah. "These ingredients are known for their ability to stimulate collagen production, accelerate cell renewal and fade pigmentation. However, whilst they can improve the surface appearance of sun-damaged skin, they can’t fully reverse structural changes in the dermis like an in-clinic treatment can," she notes.

If you have severe sun damage, a professional treatment may be the best solution. "The most effective way to target sun damage is through in-clinic treatments which address the changes in the dermis and trigger the skin’s natural repair process, promoting cell turnover," says Dr Leah.

"At Dr Leah Clinics our key treatment to address sun damage is a combination BBL and Moxi treatment. BBL stands for BroadBand Light, and this is an advanced form of intense pulsed light (IPL) therapy that uses broad-spectrum light to target pigment in the skin, such as melanin in brown spots and haemoglobin in red spots or blood vessels.

"Moxi uses a non-ablative fractional laser to create tiny micro-coagulation zones. This helps to prompt the body to rid itself of damaged cells and then build fresh collagen for a smoother surface. It targets the superficial layers of the skin without removing the outermost layer, with the tiny performations triggering the skin’s natural repair process. By stimulating collagen remodelling it promotes cell turnover and improves skin tone, texture, and pigmentation. It’s effective for early sun damage, fine lines, uneven tone, and pigmentation issues. The combination of Moxi and BBL is effective because they target different layers of the skin and support each other’s results."

How can I prevent further sun damage?

"The key to preventing further sun damage is protecting all exposed skin with a broad spectrum high factor SPF at all times, not just when it’s sunny," says Dr Leah. "It’s important to apply SPF more often if you’re sweating or in and out of water, and to also wear protective clothing such as sunglasses and wide-brimmed hats."

Products to help sun damaged skin

If you’ve ever had a lymphatic drainage facial, you’ll know the satisfyingly sculpted, contoured look you leave the treatment room with. But you don’t necessarily need an appointment—or a complicated facial massage routine—to recreate the effect at home. Enter facial cupping: an easy, affordable way to help reduce puffiness and leave your complexion looking firmer and more defined.

But what exactly is facial cupping? The practice uses small, flexible silicone cups that create gentle suction as you glide them across the skin. Used with specific movements, they can encourage lymphatic drainage and move excess fluid, temporarily reducing puffiness and making the face's natural contours appear more defined. The suction also stimulates blood flow to the skin, which can give your complexion an immediate glow boost.

The technique is surprisingly straightforward, and plenty of easy-to-follow tutorials online can help you get started. All you need is a facial cupping set and a hydrating serum or facial oil to give the cups enough slip to glide smoothly across the skin. Once you’ve mastered the movements, it takes just a few minutes.

I’ve been using my £6 pink silicone facial cupping set from Amazon for years, and it’s long been my secret weapon for a more contoured, sculpted-looking face before a night out or special occasion. Equally, if I’ve had a bad night’s sleep and wake up looking particularly puffy, a few minutes of facial cupping never fails to make a noticeable difference. So when I say I’ve put at-home facial cupping through its paces, I mean it—I’ve used it multiple times a week for several years, and it remains one of my most relied-upon DIY treatments for quick, visible results.

How to Master Facial Cupping

The technique takes a little practice to master, but there’s one important rule from the outset: never leave the cups suctioned in one place for more than a few seconds, as this can cause bruising. I learnt that lesson the hard way during my early facial-cupping experiments.

The appeal is that the results can be visible almost immediately. By encouraging lymphatic drainage and helping to move excess fluid away from the face, cupping can temporarily make cheekbones and the jawline appear more defined, reduce the look of under-eye bags and puffiness, and leave the face looking generally tighter and more sculpted.

Despite the suction, it shouldn’t hurt or feel uncomfortable—in fact, I find the process surprisingly relaxing. The small, pliable silicone cups look a little like miniature traffic cones and are nothing like the larger, often glass cups associated with professional body cupping. You may notice some temporary redness afterwards as blood flow increases, but in my experience this settles quickly.

Most facial cupping sets available online come with four cups: two larger cups for the face and two smaller ones for the more delicate eye area. In my experience, however, the smaller cups don’t make much of a noticeable difference. I tend to use the larger ones beneath my eyes and along my brow bones too, without any issues.

To create suction, gently pinch the sides of the silicone cup, place it against the skin, and release your grip so it attaches. Before you begin, apply a generous amount of a slippery serum or facial oil—this is essential to allow the cup to glide easily rather than tugging at the skin. I then move the cup upward and outward across the face before sweeping it down behind the ear and toward the base of the neck.

The Verdict

Facial cupping has become one of my go-to at-home treatments for a more sculpted-looking face, alongside cryotherapy. Once you’ve mastered the technique, it’s incredibly easy to do—and if you want to see just how much of a difference it makes, try cupping one side of your face first. Compare the two in the mirror and the reduction in puffiness and added definition can be surprisingly noticeable.

For me, it’s a firm favourite: quick, affordable and easy to incorporate into my routine. After years of using it, it’s one DIY treatment I’ll continue reaching for whenever my face needs a little extra definition.

Complete Your Facial Cupping Routine

The Beauty Digest is my Beauty Director’s edit of what’s actually worth your attention. Each week, I’ll be sharing the new launches I’m using and loving, the viral treatments I’m putting to the test (and what I really think of the results), plus my take on the industry conversations everyone’s talking about.

The New Launches I'm Loving

The Treatment Trial: Matrix RF Microneedling

I popped by The Aesthetics Doctor clinic last week to see Dr Ahmed El Muntasar for a taste of the new Matrix Radio Frequency (RF) Microneedling treatment. The device uses tiny needles to penetrate the skin at varying depths, delivering RF energy to create controlled micro-injuries that stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen and elastin.

Where Matrix differs from other RF microneedling devices is its Depth Intelligence technology and real-time impedance monitoring. In other words, it continually assesses how the skin tissue is responding and adjusts energy delivery accordingly, allowing practitioners to treat at different depths and energy levels in a more controlled, individualised way. This can also make for a more comfortable treatment—although, yes, I definitely opted for numbing cream beforehand.

Downtime was minimal. After 30 minutes in the clinic, I headed straight back to the office, albeit a little pink in the cheeks. I did experience a breakout across my cheeks over the following few days (although that could just as easily have been hormonal), but since it cleared, my skin hasn’t looked this smooth and clear in years. And because the collagen-remodelling benefits develop over time, I’m excited to see what happens after round two.

Beauty Buzz: The Great Advent Calendar Race

It feels slightly bizarre to be writing about advent calendars in mid-August, but then the beauty industry has never been one to let reason stand in the way of a good launch. Every year, the advent calendar race seems to start earlier, with increasingly extravagant editions landing while most of us are still applying post-holiday fake tan.

At first, I rolled my eyes. Come on. It's 38 degrees outside. There's not even a whisper of winter in the air. Let us be present and enjoy the summer! But then... I started investigating. And I folded. Because when someone offers you more than £1,000 worth of luxury beauty for £200, suddenly Christmas in August starts to feel remarkably reasonable.

My only remaining qualm with beauty advent calendars is the pretence that anyone is actually using them as advent calendars. I just refuse to believe anyone a) can wait until December and b) has the self-control to just open one a day. Personally, I'd have window 25 open within the hour.

What does it take for a beauty product to survive a marathon, a three-set tennis match or several hours competing beneath stadium lights?

The least interesting thing about the world’s most talented female athletes is what sits inside their make-up bags. Their strength, skill and extraordinary careers are, quite obviously, the story. Still, in the name of rigorous beauty journalism, we do need to know which setting spray they are using.

Because while most of us judge a long-wear product by whether it survives a crowded commute or an overheated office, elite athletes subject theirs to an altogether more convincing stress test. Their skincare, make-up and hair products need to withstand sweat, rain, humidity, sun exposure, international travel and long days of training and competition - without stinging their eyes, clogging their skin or requiring constant touch-ups.

So, I asked world-renowned athletes across a range of sports to share the formulas they genuinely rely on. From mascaras that stay put through perspiration and SPF that will not run into the eyes, to recovery skincare, slicked-back hair essentials and the beauty hacks picked up over years of competing, these are the products that have earned their place in some of sport’s hardest-working kit bags.

Keep reading to find out which athlete-approved beauty tricks are worth borrowing, whether you are heading towards a finish line or simply trying to make your make-up last through a hot day.

Ahead, the world's elite female athletes' tried-and-tested beauty products...

This article is part of our 2026 Women in Sport special. For the full cover interview with Lioness Chloe Kelly, click here.

Morgan Lake - Team GB high jumper

Three-time Olympian Morgan Lake has spent more than a decade competing at the highest level of international athletics. The British high-jump record-holder became the first British woman since 1992 to reach an Olympic high-jump final at Rio 2016, before representing Team GB again at Tokyo and Paris. With outdoor competitions often involving hours of sun exposure, repeated warm-ups and the pressure of staying focused between jumps, Lake relies on lightweight products that protect her skin without feeling heavy or restrictive.

Makeup: Lake’s competition essentials include Glossier Futuredew for a luminous base, L’Oréal Paris Telescopic Mascara, REFY Brow Sculpt and REFY Cream Blush.

Skincare: “When I’m training or competing outside in the sun for hours, a good SPF is a must,” she says.. After training, she uses Dermalogica Special Cleansing Gel, followed by Dr.Jart+ toner and moisturiser.

Hair: Lake’s training staple is Umberto Giannini Slick Back Styling Gel, which she uses for her signature bun or ponytail. Enriched with rosemary and castor oil, it is “the first slick-back gel I’ve found that protects my hair” without leaving it overly stiff. After wearing braids, she removes product build-up with Cécred Clarifying Shampoo & Scalp Scrub, followed by an Aveda conditioner.

Best beauty hack: "Spraying makeup fixing spray on my slick back hair helps it stay in for longer."

Holly Aitchinson - England Rugby Union Player

England fly-half Holly Aitchison is a key playmaker for the Red Roses, known for her composure, precision and versatility across the backline. With long training days, high-intensity matches and unpredictable weather conditions, Aitchison relies on a beauty routine that works as hard as she does.

Makeup: Her full game-day base includes Clarins Double Serum Foundation, Kosas Concealer and Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Bronzing Cream. She layers Rhode Pocket Blush beneath YSL Make Me Blush for extra staying power, while REFY Lip Sculpt in Rosewood and ILIA Lip Sketch Hydrating Crayon in Overglaze add colour. For brows, she uses Maybelline Brow Ultra Slim Defining Pencil followed by L’Oréal Paris Infallible 24H Brow Lamination Gel. Waterproof Maybelline Lash Sensational Mascara completes the look, before Urban Decay All Nighter Vitamin C Setting Spray - “This is the key,” she says.

Skincare: Hydration is essential for Aitchison, who always prepares her skin with Neutrogena Hydro Boost moisturiser. After a match, she reaches for The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser to remove “dirt, mud, sweat” and every trace of make-up, before reapplying Hydro Boost. “It is instant,” she says. “I adore it.”

Hair: On match mornings, Aitchison creates a slicked-back bubble ponytail using got2b hairspray and a slick stick. She even coordinates the hair ties with her kit, or, when she is less fond of the colour, with her boots instead.

Best beauty hack: Take it from Aitchison, Fenty Beauty Soft'Lit Naturally Luminous Longwear Foundation "does not move”. As for makeup, she says: :If you want it to stay, the base is as important, so for me as a super dry girlie, I’m layering the moisturiser and the vitamin C in my setting spray is key for me. If I want it to last, I top with a powder, but with a light hand."

Eilish McColgan, Team GB long-distance runner

Four-time Olympian Eilish McColgan is accustomed to training and competing in conditions that place both her body and beauty routine under considerable pressure. From altitude camps in France to long runs in Dubai’s heat, the Commonwealth 10,000m champion needs products that remain effective through hours outdoors without adding unnecessary fuss to an already demanding schedule.

Make-up: On race day, McColgan relies on e.l.f. Power Grip Primer and e.l.f. Brown Laminating Gel, followed by Rimmel London Scandal’Eyes Exaggerate Liquid Eyeliner and Sephora Cream Lip Stain. “None of them seems to budge, no matter how hot or sweaty things get,” she says. She finishes with Carex SPF lip balm, adding that protecting her skin is “just as important as looking after the rest of my body”.

Skincare: Pelotan SPF30 is her outdoor-training non-negotiable. “It has never let me down, even during long runs in extreme heat,” she says, while the brand’s aftersun helps soothe her skin afterwards. For post-race recovery, she uses Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask before bed and Neom Perfect Night’s Sleep Mist to unwind. McColgan, who is a Revive Active ambassador, also incorporates its Joint Complex supplement into her broader recovery routine to support her joints and muscles after the repetitive impact of running.

Hair: Because she trains daily—and sometimes twice a day—Batiste Dry Shampoo helps McColgan avoid washing her hair after every session.

Best beauty hack: "I love wearing Mylee Gel Nail Wraps on race day. I collaborated with them to create my own tartan design - I love having a bit of home with me wherever I am in the world."

Chantelle Cameron - Professional Boxer

Professional boxer Chantelle Cameron is one of Britain’s most accomplished fighters, having made history as the undisputed super-lightweight world champion and successfully defending her titles on the global stage. A demanding training schedule means her beauty routine has to work just as hard as she does. So, what's in her kit?

Makeup: Cameron uses Maybelline Grippy Serum primer beneath Max Factor Facefinity foundation. “It keeps my make-up in place even through long days and plenty of movement,” she says, adding that she prefers a natural finish that “lasts all day without feeling heavy” or clogging her pores.

Skincare: Her biggest non-negotiable is Garnier Ambre Solaire Super UV Over Makeup Mist SPF50+. “Whether I’m training outdoors or travelling for fights, SPF is non-negotiable,” she says. She particularly rates the lightweight texture and the fact it “doesn’t sting my eyes when I sweat”.

Hair: Cameron uses Batiste dry shampoo to refresh her roots between training sessions.

Best beauty hack: "One of the biggest lessons I've learnt is that great skin starts with preparation, not covering things up. If your skin is well hydrated and you've applied your skincare in thin, well-absorbed layers, before using primer, your make-up will hold up much better under heat and sweat than if you pile on extra products."

Lucy Procter, Elite HYROX competitor

Red Bull athlete Lucy Procter recently secured silver alongside Sinéad Bent at the HYROX Elite Doubles World Championships in Stockholm, less than 24 hours after competing in the Elite 15 Singles final. Her competition-day beauty routine is deliberately light, but still leaves room for plenty of sparkle.

Make-up: Procter begins with bareMinerals tinted moisturiser and Clinique powder, avoiding anything heavy that might feel uncomfortable while racing. Her “absolute holy grail” is Benefit BADgal BANG! Waterproof Mascara. “I’ve been using it for years and it does not budge,” she says. Benefit High Beam adds a bright, luminous finish, while a touch of hair glitter helps her “smile and sparkle” on the competition floor.

Skincare: After racing, she reaches for Garnier Micellar Water with Oil to remove make-up and sweat “quickly and easily”. She follows it with Malin + Goetz shower gel and its Peppermint Shampoo to leave her hair and skin feeling fresh.

Hair: got2b Glued Hairspray keeps Procter’s favourite race-day hairstyle firmly in place. She says the hold can last for two or even three consecutive competition days when needed.

Best beauty tip: "Invest in a genuinely waterproof mascara," she says. Procter is frequently asked how hers stays intact throughout competition, and her answer is always Benefit BADgal BANG!: “It absolutely doesn’t move.”

Molly Caudery, Team GB pole vaulter

Team GB pole vaulter and Red Bull athlete Molly Caudery is used to competitions lasting more than four hours. The two-time world indoor champion and British record-holder treats her full competition-day make-up as part of her preparation, subscribing firmly to the idea that when she looks good, she feels good.

Make-up: Caudery’s trusted trio is Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Finish Powder and Charlotte Tilbury Airbrush Flawless Setting Spray. “I can be wearing my make-up for 12-plus hours, sweating all day, and still feel like it looks just as good at the end of the night,” she says. She applies the setting spray both before and after her make-up, and subtly coordinates her eyeshadow and hairbands with her competition kit.

Skincare: SPF50 is her everyday non-negotiable and always sits beneath her make-up. Afterwards, Caudery double-cleanses with CeraVe Foaming Cleanser to remove every trace of make-up, sweat and sunscreen, before applying a Dermalogica moisturiser morning and night.

Hair: Her signature pigtails are quick, secure and have become part of her recognisable competition look. Once home, she immediately washes out the hairspray and styling product with either Olaplex or Kérastase haircare.

Best beauty hack: Caudery layers setting spray between stages of her make-up rather than reserving it for the end. She also recommends blending foundation for far longer than feels necessary: “Even when you think it’s fully blended, keep blending.”

Jazmin Sawyers - Team GB long jumper

Two-time Olympian Jazmin Sawyers is one of Britain’s most accomplished long jumpers. She won European Championship silver in 2016 before claiming her first major senior title at the 2023 European Indoor Championships, where she produced a British-record seven-metre jump to take gold. For an athlete whose competition days involve speed, sweat, and sunshine, getting ready is more than cosmetic. Sawyers calls it “the warm-up for the warm-up”, a carefully timed ritual involving music, make-up and a pre-competition double espresso.

Make-up: “It doesn’t matter how much sand or sweat my face gets covered in, my brows still look good,” she says of REFY Brow Sculpt. On competition days, she wears Pat McGrath Labs Sublime Perfection Foundation, Fenty Skin Hydrating + Strengthening Lip Oil and The Body Shop Sheer Touch Lip and Cheek Tint, often adding colourful mascara or Kaleidos eyeliner to match her kit.

Skincare: Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen is her active-day SPF of choice because of its weightless texture, while Olay Regenerist Whip and Pat McGrath Divine Skin: Rose 001 The Essence prep her complexion. After training, she double-cleanses with CeraVe Hydrating Foaming Oil Cleanser and Hydrating Cleanser, before applying La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume when her skin needs extra support.

Hair: Sawyers uses KeraCare Styling Wax Stick to smooth ponytails, buns and edges. After years of colouring and restyling her curls, she now relies on Fenty Hair The Comeback Kid Bond Builder, which she credits with helping her retain length and achieve healthier curls.

Best beauty hack: "The Pat McGrath Divine Skin Rose 001 Essense is my unexpected champion. With or without makeup, you only need a few drops, so it lasts for an eternity, but it somehow always keeps me on the right side of the glowy vs sweaty line, and even at full exertion my skin looks great when I’m wearing this!"

Sadia Kabeya MBE - England Rugby Union Player

England flanker Sadia Kabeya MBE has established herself as one of the leading players in women’s rugby. Still only in her early twenties, she has already won four Six Nations titles, represented England at two World Cups and played an important role in the Red Roses’ victorious 2025 campaign. On match day, her beauty routine is similarly performance-focused.

Make-up: Kabeya pairs MAC Studio Radiance Moisturizing + Illuminating Silky Primer with ONE/SIZE On ’Til Dawn Mattifying Waterproof Setting Spray to create “a base and finish that keep my make-up on through games and training”. She completes her long-wear routine with the Fyne Strokes Brow Pen, which keeps her eyebrows “slick all day”.

Skincare: After training, Kabeya reaches for Clinique All About Clean 2-in-1 Cleansing + Exfoliating Jelly.

Hair: Before a game, Kabeya lays her edges with Kaniz Wonder Edge Citrus, followed by Cantu Shea Butter Wave Whip Curling Mousse. She sets everything beneath a headscarf to achieve a freshly styled finish that lasts.

Best beauty hack: "The best beauty hack I’ve learnt as a girl with curly hair is to wear my satin lined scrum cap by Gilbert, to keep my hair protected, neat and moisturised during a rugby game. Saves me and hassle later!"

The Athlete-Approved Rules of Long-Wear Beauty Products We're Taking Note Of

1. SPF is the most important

It is no surprise that SPF emerged as a non-negotiable for so many of the athletes. When training outdoors for hours, sun protection matters, but so does finding a formula that remains comfortable once heat and sweat enter the equation.

“Daily SPF is non-negotiable, but texture matters,” says MUA Chaliya. “Lightweight mineral or hybrid formulas often sit beautifully under make-up because they absorb excess shine and are less likely to feel heavy in hot weather.”

Dr Memee Ahmad of SkinCouture Clinic also emphasises the importance of choosing the right products. She recommends layering lightweight hydration underneath SPF, explaining that “heat and sweat increase water loss through the day”, and that keeping skin balanced can help sunscreen sit more comfortably and perform better during exercise. Noted.

2. A setting spray is non-negotiable

Setting spray emerged as another competition-day essential, with several athletes relying on it to keep makeup intact through heat, sweat and long hours. “A good setting spray isn’t just for weddings or special occasions,” says Chaliya. “If you’re commuting, travelling or spending time outdoors, it can significantly extend the wear of your makeup.” Rather than simply sealing everything beneath a rigid layer, she explains, it helps “all the layers work together”.

Application still matters, however: Chaliya recommends a hydrated base and thin layers, as “lighter layers almost always outperform heavy coverage” when temperatures rise.

3. Waterproof and tubing formulas last longer

It makes sense that waterproof mascara, eyeliner and strong-hold brow products appeared repeatedly in the athletes’ competition kits. These formulas are designed to cope with the moisture that causes traditional make-up to smudge, flake or run. “Waterproof mascara and eyeliner are always worth choosing, as they’ll withstand heat, humidity and perspiration far better than regular formulas,” adds MUA and Waldor Clinic manager Hedi Rad.

Tubing mascara works slightly differently, but still worth adding to your makeup kit if you're particularly active. “Tubing mascaras wrap each lash in tiny water-resistant polymers rather than relying on waxes alone,” explains MUA artist Chaliya, helping them resist sweat and watery eyes while still removing easily with warm water.

Botox has been a regular part of my beauty routine for the best part of a decade now. A few units for my genetically prominent frown muscles, a couple to freeze my forehead (I like the poker-faced look) and, not forgetting, a generous helping in my masseters to help with teeth grinding. But over the years, it feels as though the effects have started wearing off faster. Whereas I once waited the best part of a year to notice significant movement returning, I’m now scrabbling to book my next appointment after just a few months. Could I be becoming increasingly tolerant to Botox? And, if so, could it eventually stop working altogether?

I’m not the only one noticing this. Reddit is awash with users claiming the effects of Botox—or, more accurately, botulinum toxin—now last just two months, while others report that it has stopped working altogether after years of successful treatment. So, what’s going on? Has the formula itself changed? Are practitioners injecting less liberally than they did a decade ago? Have our expectations simply surpassed Botox’s performance parameters? Or could some of us actually be developing resistance to it? I called upon the experts to explain.

Is Botox resistance actually a thing?

First things first: yes, technically, it is possible to become resistant to botulinum toxin—but actual resistance is far less common than the conversations online might have you believe.

“True resistance to botulinum toxin is a recognised phenomenon, but it is much rarer than social media might suggest,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, NHS GP, aesthetic doctor and founder of The Aesthetics Doctor. In some cases, he explains, the immune system can develop neutralising antibodies against botulinum toxin, which can reduce—or even prevent—its effects.

Dr Vishnu Nathan, aesthetics doctor at the Taktouk Clinic, agrees, describing true toxin resistance as “relatively uncommon in aesthetic medicine”. Instead, he says, what is sometimes labelled resistance may actually be “pseudo-resistance”, caused by factors such as underdosing, suboptimal placement, compensatory muscle recruitment or unrealistic expectations.

That means if your usual Botox suddenly doesn’t seem to be doing quite as much as it once did, antibody resistance probably shouldn’t be your first assumption. As Dr Ahmed explains, differences in dose, injection technique and placement, particularly strong muscles and even the toxin formulation being used can all influence the result.

There is also an important distinction between Botox genuinely no longer working and simply not lasting as long as you remember it lasting. “In my experience, complete loss of response is uncommon,” says Dr Ahmed. “What I see much more frequently is patients feeling that their treatment isn’t lasting as long as it used to.”

The key is what you mean by not working. If you see little or no reduction in movement after treatment, that is very different from getting a good initial result and noticing movement creeping back in a few months later. Botox isn’t designed to permanently switch off a muscle; its effects gradually wear off as communication between the nerve and muscle recovers. Movement returning after a few months is therefore normal and doesn’t, in itself, mean you’ve developed resistance.

Does the way Botox is injected affect how long it lasts?

Yes, according to both doctors, this can matter enormously. Botox is the product going into the syringe, but dose, placement and treatment frequency all contribute to the final result.

“The dose, the muscles selected, the exact placement and the patient’s individual anatomy can all influence both the quality and longevity of the result,” says Dr Ahmed. Someone with particularly strong facial muscles, for example, may require a different dose from someone with relatively little movement.

Dr Nathan agrees that technique plays a major role, pointing to injection depth, muscle selection, product handling and treatment intervals alongside dose and placement.

More toxin isn’t necessarily better, either. Both doctors caution against repeatedly topping up at very short intervals. Dr Nathan says frequent top-ups and unnecessarily aggressive dosing may increase immunogenic risk, while Dr Ahmed says unnecessary exposure to higher cumulative doses and very frequent treatments is generally something practitioners try to avoid.

Dr Nathan also raises a potential issue within unregulated practice: inappropriate treatment intervals and, in some cases, the use of unlicensed or potentially more immunogenic toxins, which he says may theoretically increase the risk of treatment failure over time.

All of which is why your Botox prescription arguably shouldn't remain exactly the same forever. “I don’t believe Botox should be approached as a fixed prescription where exactly the same number of units are injected into exactly the same places indefinitely,” says Dr Ahmed.

Could your face be changing instead?

Resistance isn’t the only reason Botox can seem less effective over time. Our faces aren’t static, and after a decade of treatment, changes in muscle movement, skin quality and facial structure can all alter both how Botox works and, importantly, how we perceive the results.

“Generally, repeatedly treating the same muscle tends to reduce its activity rather than make it stronger,” explains Dr Ahmed. In some people, results can actually last well because that muscle becomes less dominant over time.

What can change, however, is the way the rest of your face moves. Both doctors point out that when movement is reduced in one area, we can begin recruiting surrounding or untreated muscles differently to compensate. “The face is incredibly dynamic,” says Dr Ahmed. What looks like Botox becoming less effective may therefore actually be a change in the balance of movement across your face.

What should you do if your Botox starts wearing off faster?

It's tempting to book an emergency top-up at the first signs of movement (at least, it is for me), but both doctors give essentially the same advice: reassess before injecting more.

“The first thing I would do is re-examine rather than automatically inject more,” says Dr Ahmed. That means looking at how quickly the treatment started working, how good the initial response was, which areas are moving again, the previous dose and how frequently you've been treated.

If you had an excellent initial response that simply wore off earlier than expected, adjusting the dose or placement next time may be enough to make it last sufficiently. If there has been very little response despite appropriate treatment, however, then it may be reasonable to consider other explanations, including reduced responsiveness.

Sometimes changing the treatment strategy or considering a different botulinum toxin formulation may be appropriate. For people who have been having particularly frequent treatments, Dr Ahmed says allowing a longer interval before treating again may also be worth considering.

Dr Nathan similarly advocates for a more flexible approach rather than simply escalating the amount of toxin, assessing everything from muscle activity and facial balance to skin quality and structural ageing to work out what has actually changed.

Ultimately, though, the takeaway isn't that anyone who has been having Botox for years is destined to become immune to it. “Genuine resistance exists, but it is relatively uncommon,” says Dr Ahmed. “If something has changed, the most important thing is to work out why rather than simply chasing the result with more and more toxin.”

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

Chances are, hypochlorous acid wasn’t an ingredient you’d heard of until a few years ago. It was a little-known beauty secret, something only those in the know would seek out in the baby aisles of Boots. But now? It’s everywhere, and it’s gradually made its way out of the changing bags and into handbags. Brands including Tower28, Prequel, Medicube and e.l.f. now have their own versions, and while TikTok is full of videos telling us to spritz it onto everything from post-workout skin to active breakouts, is it actually the miracle product it’s touted to be?

It’s easy to understand the appeal. Hypochlorous acid is said to calm inflammation, reduce bacteria and support everything from acne to eczema and rosacea – all while being kind to sensitive skin, which makes sense when it’s considered safe for newborns. But the ever-growing popularity also raises an important question: if it works by killing bacteria, can it tell the difference between the ‘bad’ bacteria it’s designed to treat and the ‘good’ bacteria that help keep skin healthy? We asked the experts to find out.

What Exactly Is Hypochlorous Acid?

“Hypochlorous acid is something your body makes naturally,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Sidra Khan. “It’s part of how your immune system fights off bacteria and infection. In skincare, it’s bottled as a stable liquid that works as a gentle antiseptic, calming inflammation and keeping bacteria in check when you spray or apply it to skin.”

And, long before it became a trending ingredient, it was those antiseptic properties that made hypochlorous acid especially useful in clinical settings. Dr Stefanie Williams, dermatologist and medical director at Eudelo, uses it to disinfect skin before carrying out certain procedures, and sometimes recommends her patients use it for a few days after ablative laser treatments or at-home hair epilation to help prevent infection. It’s also used in wound care, and because it’s generally less irritating (and less likely to sting) than alcohol-based disinfectants, it’s well tolerated by most people.

Of course, its ability to reduce bacteria while calming inflammation helps explain the growing appeal for concerns like acne, eczema and rosacea, but Dr Khan says the evidence here is much more limited. Most existing research looks at short bursts of use for a particular problem, rather than indefinite daily use on skin that’s otherwise healthy. That’s why she sees hypochlorous acid as a ‘possible adjunct rather than a replacement’ for established treatments.

Does Your Skin Need Hypochlorous Acid Every Day?

Despite what TikTok might have us all believe, experts agree that the average person doesn’t—and shouldn’t—be using hypochlorous acid in their daily routine. “For most people with healthy skin, there’s no evidence that adding a daily antimicrobial spray is necessary,” says Dr Khan. “The everyday essential positioning is more marketing than medicine.”

Dr Williams concurs, adding that she will always advise against using topical hypochlorous acid as part of a daily skincare routine. “My reasoning is simply because it’s an ingredient that has broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties, and overuse may disrupt physiological microbial communities on skin,” she says.

But what exactly does that mean? In short, using hypochlorous acid too often could disturb the balance of microorganisms that naturally live on, and help protect, skin. Together, they make up the skin’s microbiome, which supports everything from the skin barrier to its ability to defend itself against potential irritants and harmful bacteria. So, as Dr Williams says, why risk disturbing it unless clinically necessary?

Ultimately, the main concern is that hypochlorous acid may not be able to tell the difference between bacteria that we want to remove and those that support skin. “It doesn’t know the difference between ‘good’ and ‘bad’,” says Dr Khan. “It just kills whatever it comes into contact with. Wipe out too much of the good stuff too often and, in theory, you leave room for less friendly bacteria to move in and weaken the skin’s natural defences.”

However, the in theory is important, simply because there isn’t enough evidence to prove that using it every day will damage your skin’s microbiome. Dr Williams says that while low-strength formulas do appear to reduce harmful bacteria without having a significant effect on the good bacteria in the short term, nobody really knows what could happen after months of continuous use.

Should You Stop Using Hypochlorous Acid Altogether?

Not necessarily: it can be an effective, well-tolerated ingredient when it’s used for a specific reason. The main issue is the idea that everybody needs to use it every day. And as Dr Khan concludes: “The science is solid for specific situations, but the marketing has run well ahead of it, and it hasn’t earned its new status as a daily must-have for everybody.”

So, for now, think of hypochlorous acid as a useful targeted treatment to be used occasionally, instead of an everyday skincare miracle that social media has made it out to be.

Over the past week, my social media feeds have been flooded with warnings that our skincare products are exposing us to benzene, a known carcinogen. The posts are often accompanied by images of familiar brands and long-trusted products, many of which I have used myself and still keep on my bathroom shelf. So, what’s actually going on? Has there been a genuine exposé, or are alarming headlines outrunning the evidence? Here’s what you need to know.

What Is Benzene—And Why Is It Causing Concern?

“Benzene is an aromatic hydrocarbon and a known carcinogen, which is why it has ignited so much fear in the media,” explains Dr Beibei Du-Harpur, consultant dermatologist and clinical lecturer at King's College London. Early reports, she says, emphasised that there is no safe level of benzene because it is directly genotoxic, meaning it can damage DNA.

Consultant dermatologist Dr Ophelia Veraitch adds that benzene is not deliberately added to skincare products. Instead, benzene may appear as an unintended contaminant. “In formulas containing benzoyl peroxide, which is commonly used to target acne, it can form when the ingredient breaks down over time or when exposed to heat, making it a contaminant rather than an ingredient,” she says.

Dr Mona Foad, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of MONA Dermatology, explains that benzene also occurs naturally in the environment and is used in certain industrial processes. “When it is detected, it’s usually as an unintended contaminant or due to product stability issues,” she says.

While long-term exposure to high levels of benzene has been linked to certain blood cancers, Foad stresses that the actual risk depends on both the amount of benzene involved and the duration of exposure.

What’s Driving the Controversy?

Much of the recent conversation centres on testing carried out by Valisure, an independent technology company that has investigated benzene levels in benzoyl peroxide products.

Du-Harpur is sceptical about both the testing conditions and the company’s wider strategy. “Ultimately, the company driving up interest in benzene and the potential risk of benzoyl peroxide is financially motivated,” she says. “It’s a business model—they generate huge amounts of media attention and hype, and gather people for class action lawsuits. The more people pay attention to it, the more money they’re going to make, and the more likely they are to do it again with another product.” In some cases, she says, companies may pay to settle claims even when the science is eventually challenged, simply to bring the legal process to an end.

Du-Harpur also questions how accurately the testing reflects real-world use. Benzene has been detected in benzoyl peroxide skincare products and certain aerosol sunscreens, but she says the conditions used were not representative of normal day-to-day storage. “The products were essentially ‘cooked’ at very high temperatures to demonstrate that tiny amounts of benzene could be generated,” she explains.

In her view, Valisure demonstrated that it was theoretically possible to decompose a skincare product under extreme conditions. That does not necessarily show that the same thing will happen while a product is sitting on an ordinary bathroom shelf.

Does Detecting Benzene Automatically Make a Product Unsafe?

Not necessarily. All three dermatologists stress that detection alone does not tell us whether a product presents a meaningful health risk. “The quantities detected are extremely low,” says Du-Harpur. Although benzene exposure should be minimised, she points out that we are already exposed to it in everyday life in much higher amounts through sources such as car exhausts and standing in petrol stations.

“The amount someone would be exposed to from washing their face with a benzoyl peroxide cleanser is extremely minimal,” she says. “Your skin is a barrier designed to keep things out, so very little is absorbed.”

Veraitch agrees that the important question is not simply whether benzene has been detected, but whether the amount exceeds regulatory limits. “Detection isn’t the issue—it’s whether the level exceeds regulatory thresholds,” she explains.

When the FDA tested batches of benzoyl peroxide products, she says, around 90% contained either undetectable or very low levels of benzene. The recalls relate specifically to products in which levels exceeded the relevant thresholds.

Foad adds that modern analytical testing is exceptionally sensitive and can detect incredibly small quantities of substances. “The presence of benzene alone doesn’t automatically mean a product poses a meaningful health risk,” she says.

Consumers need to consider how much benzene was detected, how the product is used and whether a regulatory body has determined that the level is significant enough to warrant a recall.

Should You Worry About Products You've Already Used?

The consensus is reassuring: based on the available evidence, the risk from past use is considered very low. “I’d say the actual safety issue is extremely negligible,” says Du-Harpur. The benzene exposure associated with skincare is likely to be minimal unless a product has been subjected to extreme conditions, such as being heated to unusually high temperatures.

“We need to take a balanced approach to risk,” she says. “Just because something exists doesn’t mean it’s inherently dangerous.”

Veraitch similarly encourages consumers not to panic about products they have already used. “Exposure doesn’t necessarily equate to harm, and the calculated cancer risk from the benzene levels found in the recalled products is very low,” she says.

She also notes that most people use benzoyl peroxide products for relatively short periods, rather than applying large quantities continuously over many years.

Foad agrees. “Based on the available evidence, the risk from past use is generally considered to be very low,” she says. The health concerns associated with benzene primarily relate to much higher or more prolonged exposure than would typically be expected from skincare products.

“If a product has been recalled, it should be discontinued, but people shouldn’t panic about products they’ve previously used,” she adds.

How Can We Separate Genuine Health Risks From Alarming Headlines?

The language used in headlines can make this particularly difficult. The word “carcinogen” is understandably frightening, but it does not tell us the level of exposure or the degree of actual risk.

“Headlines saying ‘benzene found’ can be misleading because the important factor is the level detected, not simply its presence,” says Veraitch. She recommends checking whether a product has actually been recalled and whether the specific batch or lot number you own is affected.

Foad also advises consumers to look beyond the headline. “The word ‘carcinogen’ understandably captures attention, but the real health risk depends on exposure, frequency of use and regulatory assessment,” she says.

Rather than relying solely on viral posts or alarming reports, she recommends seeking information from trusted, evidence-based sources and official regulatory bodies.

Du-Harpur believes the way these findings are circulated can further distort the level of risk. “Overall, the risk is very low, but fear spreads much more easily than context,” she says.

What Should We Do Now?

The first step is to check whether the product you own has actually been recalled and whether your particular batch is affected. “Approach these reports thoughtfully rather than reacting out of fear,” advises Foad. “I don’t recommend discarding an entire skincare regimen because of a headline alone.”

Products that have not been identified as a concern can continue to be used as directed. Foad also recommends storing them according to the manufacturer’s instructions and replacing anything that has noticeably changed in colour, texture or odour, as those changes could suggest that the formula is no longer stable.

Du-Harpur says appropriate storage is key. “As long as products are being stored reasonably and used as directed, the risk is incredibly low,” she explains.

Her main recommendation is not to leave skincare in a hot car, particularly during the summer. High temperatures can cause formulas to break down, affecting their stability and efficacy. This is especially important with sunscreen, as an unstable formula may no longer provide the advertised level of protection.

“Store products in cool, dry environments,” she says. Refrigerating skincare is not necessary, but avoiding prolonged exposure to excessive heat is sensible.

Veraitch’s wider advice is to resist overcomplicating your routine in response to every new headline. “I always recommend keeping skincare routines simple and targeted to individual skin concerns, based on advice from practising dermatologists rather than social media trends.”

Ultimately, none of the dermatologists recommends emptying your bathroom cabinet in panic. Check official recall information, use products as directed, store them properly and seek professional advice when you are unsure.

Marie Claire UK contacted Valisure for comment but had not received a response at the time of publication.

“I used to love this,” says the woman standing next to me in Boots. With a wistful sigh, she places the bottle of serum back on the shelf. The only thing standing between her and her favourite Elemis Pro Collagen Renewal Serum isn’t the £78 price tag but a carrot. “It only scored 33 on Yuka,” she whispers, by way of explanation.

Beauty scanning apps that determine the toxicity of your skin and hair care are booming. Arguably, the most famous of these is the Yuka App with its distinctive vegetable logo, which an estimated 5 million people in the UK now consult for cosmetics and food purchases.

According to the brand’s website, what happens behind the scenes goes a little like this: Scanning a beauty product’s bar code with your phone pulls up its ingredients. The Yuka App then assigns a risk level to each one based on the potential effects to your health and the environment—for example, if it’s an allergen or carcinogen. It does so via an algorithm that’s managed by Yuka’s team, which includes a toxicologist, and takes into consideration data from bodies such as the European Chemicals Agency.

The database includes around 12,500 cosmetic ingredients, but the final safety score out of 100 is based on how much of the highest-risk ingredient is present in the product. A score of 75 to 100 earns a dark green risk-free dot; 50 to 74, a light green “good”; 25 to 49, an orange “poor”; and 0 to 24, a red “bad”, indicating the presence of potentially harmful ingredients.

The Pros and Cons of Product-Scanning Apps

But product-scanning apps such as Yuka, Think Dirty and INCI Beauty are dividing the experts. Skincare founder Irene Forte says the apps are empowering beauty shoppers to make more informed choices, especially those who know what ingredients they’re keen to avoid. “I like that they tell you in a snapshot what’s actually in a product—something that’s often hard to read on the pack,” she says.

However, some cosmetic chemists and skincare experts say it’s not that straightforward. For starters, there’s the ingredients list itself. By law, beauty brands are only required to list ingredients in descending order based on weight. So an app can’t know exactly how much of an ingredient is actually in a product. “Scanning apps assess ingredients in isolation without knowing the percentage, the delivery mechanism, or the overall formulation,” explains Daniel Isaacs, a chemist and the director of research at Medik8. “In science, the dose makes the poison. Even pure water can be harmful in excess, whereas potent actives like retinaldehyde are exceptionally effective and completely safe when delivered at precise, controlled levels.” Ginger King, an award-winning cosmetic chemist who has formulated hundreds of products for brands including Joico and Avon, echoes these frustrations. “In a cosmetic formulation, consumers aren’t likely to use one ingredient by itself at 100%,” she says.

The worry is that this methodology can demonise some ingredients unnecessarily. One example is phenoxyethanol. “At 1% it’s a perfectly safe and good preservative,” says King, a claim that’s backed by the European Commission. Yet Yuka assigns phenoxyethanol a damning orange dot. Similarly, when Dr Ash Soni, a plastic surgeon and founder of The Soni Clinic, used the Yuka App to test some of the skincare in his clinic, the inclusion of phenoxyethanol at an extremely low, legal concentration skewed the results and rated the overall product as “poor”. “I know how well formulated these science-backed brands are, and the research behind them,” he says. “A tiny dose of this preservative would never cause any type of irritation or harm to your skin. But it’s needed to stabilise a product and prevent the growth of harmful bacteria and mould.”

From my own research, I also found that results varied from app to app, which muddies the waters. When I scanned the products I’m currently using on the Yuka App, my Skinceuticals P-Tiox cream scored highly with 86/100 and my tinted La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVAir Serum Sunscreen SFP50+ a solid “good” 57/100. My CeraVe Foaming Cleanser, however, only scored a “poor” 39, prompting the app to suggest Simple’s Kind To Skin Moisturising Facial Wash as an alternative. But when I put the same products through the INCI Beauty app, the cleanser scored a light green 11.8/20, literally giving me the green light to use it. The sunscreen sat unfavourably between the orange and low yellow colour bands with a score of 8.9/20 and, while still good, the P-Tiox cream was only rated 11.4/20.

So Should We Use Product-Scanning Apps Like Yuka?

All that said, you can’t ignore the impact of product-scanning apps on the beauty industry. “I love seeing how passionate people have become about what goes onto their skin,” says Isaacs. “The popularity of apps like Yuka shows that consumers want transparency and want to understand their products. These apps have helped to demystify skincare jargon and encouraged people to look beyond marketing claims. They have put healthy pressure on the beauty industry to be more open.”

A number of beauty brands are also betting on Yuka validations. Forte notes that “excellent” ratings on Yuka for products such as the Almond Cleansing Milk, which scored 100/100, and the new Red Algae Resurfacing Body Exfoliator drive revenue and brand loyalty for her brand. “We made the scores visible on our product pages and, since introducing them, our conversion rate increased by 88%,” she explains. “Independent retailers are also taking us on, partly because of our Yuka rating. And more and more customers are scanning in-store and shopping with us because of our scores. Ultimately, with tens of millions of users, it’s become a very powerful app.”

There’s no denying, too, that they reflect a cultural shift towards self-empowerment by beauty fans. One of Forte’s favourite features on the Yuka App is that it highlights fragrance allergens, especially essential oils. “In the US, brands still aren’t required to disclose fragrance allergens on pack, and in the EU/UK they can note “from organic sources” with an asterisk without stating it’s an allergen. I find that misleading, and I love Yuka for calling it out—especially because people with sensitive skin often assume natural means better.”

But the debate still rages about the accuracy of these apps. While Forte acknowledges that not knowing the exact percentage of each ingredient is a shortcoming, “Yuka still highlights everything a product contains,” she says. “Even at a low percentage, it’s there—a 100/100 score means there’s no debatable ingredient in the formula at all.”

Dr Soni takes a more cautious view. For him, the biggest issue is that these apps oversimplify toxicology in ways that can mislead shoppers. “There’s a lot of science and data behind skincare products,” he explains. “Apps like Yuka are creating a traffic light system to simplify things that are actually quite complex. But they’re not always taking into account the true science and data from that brand—they’re pulling ingredient data from lots of different sources and we don't actually know what these clinical studies are.” For this reason, he cautions against chucking a product just because it scores low on an app. “If you’re using skincare by a reputable brand, you like it and your skin is tolerating it well, then I don’t see a reason to throw it away,” Dr Soni says. If in doubt, his advice is to speak to a professional—either your GP, a dermatologist or an aesthetic doctor.

Meanwhile, Isaacs recommends taking automated risk scores with a pinch of salt. “From a formulation and research perspective, I would recommend viewing these risk scores with caution,” he says. “The fundamental issue is that safety cannot be reduced to a simple red-or-green score based on an ingredient list alone. It tells you what's in the bottle, but it tells you nothing about the concentration, the purity of the raw materials, the pH, or how the ingredients interact within the total formula. When you strip away the toxicology context, you replace genuine science with unnecessary alarmism.”

It’s also worth noting that in the UK and EU, beauty brands operate under some of the most stringent cosmetic safety laws in the world, Isaacs adds. Taking his own brand as an example, he says, “Every Medik8 product undergoes rigorous clinical testing and complies with the strictest safety standards. Before it reaches a customer, it is evaluated by a qualified independent toxicologist who looks at every single detail. Apps often flag safe, approved, and heavily tested ingredients as dangerous, which distorts the real science. We need to trust the true experts here—cosmetic toxicologists.”

Still, technology moves at a speed of knots, so perhaps there’ll be a scanning sweet spot that satisfies both supporters and sceptics in the not-too-distant future.

Cast your mind back about a decade and you’ll remember celebrities were all sporting a particular look. Pillowy cheeks, snatched jawlines, and lips that arrived in a room before they did. Filler blindness was real and it took years to snap out of it. Some celebrities have since been honest about their overuse of fillers, and have disclosed their decision to dissolve theirs. Courteney Cox spoke openly about reversing her filler, and Kristin Davis, who described being “ridiculed relentlessly” over hers, did the same. While megastar Ariana Grande stopped lip filler in 2018, telling the press she felt she looked overdone.

It took a while for the wider population to follow suit, but as a new, more subtle beauty aesthetic reigns supreme, the decline in popularity of dermal filler has felt notable. And yet filler has not disappeared; it has reinvented itself. Cue a new category of filler that claims to do what its predecessors could not—mimic the flexibility, elasticity and movement of natural facial tissue.

Intriguing, but in this era where biostimulators have become the injectable of choice, the question is whether this is a genuine technological breakthrough or an industry in need of a rebrand.

How We Got Here

Dermal filler is an injectable gel, almost always made from hyaluronic acid, a substance our bodies already produce to keep skin hydrated and structurally supported. Injected into specific areas of the face, it’s traditionally been used to replace lost volume, soften lines and folds, and reshape contours—think the cheeks, lips, jawline, temples, and under-eyes. Sounds great, right? Well, to understand where filler is going, it helps to understand where it went wrong.

“Hyaluronic acid isn’t the problem. It’s still one of the safest, most predictable and most versatile products we have. The issue has been how it’s sometimes been used. For a number of years there was a trend towards bigger lips, fuller cheeks and sharper jawlines, with some patients having repeated treatments before the previous filler had fully settled or broken down. That’s where the overfilled look came from. In my opinion it’s never been the material that’s damaged filler’s reputation; it’s been poor patient selection, poor technique and, quite simply, using too much,” says aesthetic doctor and founder of The Aesthetics Doctor Clinic, Ahmed El Muntasar.

In the UK, the problem was compounded by something the industry has spent years trying to change. Currently, anyone can legally inject dermal filler without medical training or a single qualification. The result has been a proliferation of practitioners working without the anatomical knowledge, emergency protocols or clinical judgment to know when to stop. According to the British College of Aesthetic Medicine’s (BCAM) annual clinical review 2025. 3,002 complications were treated by BCAM members in 2024 alone, of which 67 per cent were caused by non-medical practitioners, and 87 per cent involved dermal fillers.

Filler 2.0 Explained

Traditional hyaluronic acid fillers are crosslinked, meaning the HA chains are chemically bonded together to create a gel that holds its shape. The manufacturing process, which traditionally uses heat to accelerate the reaction, tends to fragment those long HA chains into shorter pieces, which then need more crosslinking to hold together. The result is a stiffer, less mobile product that’s injected into a face that’s constantly moving.

The next generation, including Teoxane’s RHA range, MaiLi and Evolus Estyme, are all made differently, but what they have in common is that they all preserve the natural long-chain molecular structure of hyaluronic acid. Manufacturers claim this results in a flexible, bouncy, stretchy mesh that mirrors the exact behaviour of natural skin tissue.

Is There a Visible Difference?

As a beauty editor for over two decades, I’ve seen the evolution of filler, and I get why it needs a rebrand. We’ve had ultrasounds prove filler stays put far longer than we were originally told it does. We’ve seen how it migrates into surrounding areas, and how it can create an uneven texture. And it makes sense why these new fillers sound exciting, as the marketing around this new category taps into the natural aesthetic we’re all gravitating towards. It’s this new desire to simply look like a refreshed version of yourself that has got aesthetic beauty junkies ditching filler and opting for the likes of polynucleotides, peptides, and collagen-stimulating injectables and devices instead.

But is the marketing that claims these new fillers behave like our skin tissue actually backed by reality? “In some patients, yes, particularly in areas that move a lot like the lips and around the mouth. The filler can feel softer within the tissue and facial movement may look a little more natural when someone smiles or talks. That said, I think the difference is more subtle than some of the marketing suggests,” believes El Muntasar.

And that’s because the best brands on the market have always formulated their HA fillers slightly differently depending on what area they are intended to be used on. If you’re looking to bolster a weak chin or build cheek support, you need a product that’s firmer and provides more structure. If you’re using filler in the lips, you’ll want it to be softer; the market already has options for that.

“The biggest potential advantage, however, is in highly mobile parts of the face. Areas like the lips, around the mouth and parts of the mid-face naturally stretch and compress thousands of times a day, so having a filler that’s designed to move more naturally can make sense,” says El Muntasar.

And that’s exactly what aesthetics doctor at Reborne Longevity, Jennifer Owens, has seen over the last year and a half as one of the first to get her hands on the Evolus Estyme filler. She says she’s seeing “more natural movement, and a better result from less product,” but she cautions that “patients need to be careful not to assume the product alone does the work; the hands doing the injecting matter enormously.”

Your Injector Matters

All those over-injected faces we’ve seen in Hollywood and social media have one thing in common, and that’s a practitioner who didn’t know when to stop. “Any filler, new or old, can look wrong if it’s placed inappropriately. The dermal filler itself is not what you are paying for when you’re having a treatment like this, you’re paying for the expertise: the diagnosis, the assessment, the appropriate treatment plan from someone who knows what they’re doing,” explains Owens.

For anyone considering filler (new or old), the British College of Aesthetic Medicine’s Vet It Before You Get It campaign is a practical starting point. They provide questions—covering practitioner qualifications, medical supervision, insurance, product sourcing, emergency protocol, and clinic governance—that you can ask before anyone goes near your face.

The Future of Filler

While there has undoubtedly been a shift in what we want to look like, El Muntasar notes he’s “not necessarily seeing fewer people asking about filler. Rather, I’m seeing patients asking for a different type of result. They want subtle improvements. They want people to notice they look well, not to notice they’ve had treatment.” And that’s why filler fear won’t last long, because it’s one of the safest and quickest routes to lifting, supporting and smoothing out the skin.

Marketing aside, what the experts agree on is that the biggest advantage of this new category of filler is how they behave in highly mobile parts of the face. However, there’s still very much a place for sturdier fillers of old.

The pillow-faced era was not the fault of traditional dermal fillers; it was the fault of how they were used. So the question of whether the next chapter looks different will be answered not by new technology alone, but by whether injectors have finally learnt that less is more.

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

I'm not someone who wears makeup every day. If I'm going to an event or filming content, I'm guaranteed to be wearing it, but when I'm just meeting a friend for coffee or doing a grocery shop, I like to leave my skin with just skincare on. Since I go bare-faced more often than not, I'm always on the hunt for other ways to boost my glow.

I've long been a fan of the original Rhode Glazing Milk for the glass-skin look it gives, and the way it soothes my perioral dermatitis. So when they launched their Highlight Milk versions, I was all over them immediately. To be honest, it's such a simple concept; I'm surprised no brand has done this before. Rhode has taken its milky, moisturising, soothing Glazing Milk and added pearlescent, luminising particles to turn it into a bare-skin enhancer, or a glow-giving makeup primer. It's genius, and it's completely levelled up my radiance and garnered me more than a few compliments.

How We Test

I wanted to test this product in two ways. First, I wanted to make sure that these Highlight Milks had the same moisturising and soothing skincare benefits as the original Glazing Milks. It was important to me that the skin benefits were not compromised with the addition of the luminescence. Secondly, I wanted to test just how glowy they made my skin, both on their own and under makeup.

I have been using these daily for at least six weeks—they are firmly part of my routine now and are very unlikely to leave it. So I’ve had time to test these products thoroughly, in many different scenarios and in many different temperatures. When I say these have my stamp of approval, it’s because they haven’t failed me once.

First Impressions

I was so happy when I discovered that these had exactly the same texture and feel as their original counterparts. They're also scent-free, great for sensitive skin and apply the same way and sink in just as quickly, leaving that famous non-sticky, non-tacky glass-skin glaze. Except now, that glaze comes with a pearlescent luminescence that makes the skin genuinely shine (in a good way). Like the original, they're still packed with skin-barrier-fortifying ceramides, plus hydrating glycerin and moisturising antioxidant vitamin E.

I tried two of the four shades—01 Pearly Pink and 02 Pearly Champagne—both recommended for my pale skin, with the other two shades better for deeper skin tones.

As for the packaging, it is in typical Rhode style—cylindrical plastic canisters in muted, neutral tones—and it suits the dispensing of this product perfectly.

How to Apply

As I've already mentioned, these look incredible on both bare skin and under foundation. While you'd apply the original Rhode Glazing Milk as one of the first steps in your routine, much like any milky toner or essence, the Highlight Milks look glowiest applied last—after SPF, before makeup. Or better still, apply both ways to really maximise the luminescence.

As with any skincare essence, lotion or moisturiser, apply the Highlight Milks with your fingers, massaging the product in and letting it absorb (and almost dry down) for a minute or two. There's no streaking or downside to using more than you need, so experiment until you find what works for you.

The Verdict

It's safe to say I'm obsessed with the Rhode Highlight Milks. They're easy to apply, deliver clear skincare benefits every time, and give incredible glow-boosting results. They look best worn alone, but still deliver a solid radiance boost under makeup. If your skin's feeling dull and flat, these milks will save you daily and make you look like the healthiest person in the room. They're also great mixed into foundation—turning a matte base glowy, or sheering out a full-coverage one.

The pearlescent shine left behind doesn't feel like it's sitting on top of my skin—it feels part of it. Even mid-workout, sweating and wiping my face with a towel, there's no visible layer or residue coming off. In hot weather, nothing gets slippery or slides around either. My skin feels soothed and moisturised, and they visibly add dimension and a more perfected finish. They even work beautifully on the décolletage, delivering a healthier and more glowy look.

Which of the four shades suits you best will depend on your skin tone. Worn alone, I prefer 02 Pearly Champagne—it adds a slight warmth that minimises the look of hyperpigmentation for a more even tone. Under makeup, though, I reach for 01 Pearly Pink, as it's the lightest and lifts my complexion, making my foundation look brighter and more radiant. Worn alone, 01 actually increases the visibility of the redness around my nose from perioral dermatitis, and enhances my dark spots. It really is about experimenting to see what works best for your skin's tone and concerns. The Highlight Milk also comes in 03 Pearly Warm Bronze—perfect for deeply tanned or South Asian skin tones—and 04 Pearly Rich Bronze, suited to Black skin tones.

If you like a glowy skin look, I would urge you to try the Rhode Highlight Milks. They have never let me down and have also remained true to the skincare benefits of the original. I can now, very happily, go makeup-free.

More to Try

You've been living under a (beauty) rock if you haven’t heard of PDRN. Many know it as the injectable, polynucleotide treatment, colloquially known as the “salmon sperm facial”, but a slew of topical products featuring the ingredient is the latest export from South Korea. They promise similar results, minus the needles.

So, what is it? PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide) is a regenerative DNA fragment, most commonly derived from salmon or trout sperm. While it may sound new, it’s been used since the 1990’s as a pharmaceutical treatment for tissue repair, including treating burns and repairing tendons. This is because PDRN is highly biocompatible with human DNA, meaning it can stimulate collagen production, improve skin elasticity, reduce inflammation and speed up wound healing. In recent years, it’s become a runaway success in South Korean aesthetic clinics for its skin-boosting properties and ability to deliver the sought-after “glass skin” effect.

Of course, if you’re looking for the maximum effects of the ingredient, dermatologists recommend going the injectable route. The next best option are PDRN serums and creams—however, as Consultant Dermatologist Dr Zainab Laftah explains, not all are created equal.

How can PDRN skincare products benefit skin?

PDRN stands out from many recent hero ingredients as it’s positioned as a regenerative active ingredient. “Research suggests that it may support tissue repair through several pathways, including activating repair signals in the skin, supporting the cells that produce collagen and maintain the skin barrier, encouraging the formation of new blood vessels and helping to regulate inflammation,” the dermatologist tells me. All this may offer potential benefits for rejuvenation and wound healing, including acne scarring.

Regarding results, dermatology studies suggest that improvements in hydration and barrier recovery can appear in just two weeks, while changes in elasticity may take a month or longer. “With continued use, the skin may look plumper, calmer and smoother, with modest improvements in firmness and fine lines,” Dr Laftah continues, adding that: “Topical evidence remains limited, so these timelines cannot be applied to every PDRN product, and results should not be expected to match those achieved with injectable treatments.”

Who is topical PDRN good for?

If you have dry, dehydrated, sensitive or compromised skin, PDRN is a great option. It’s excellent for barrier recovery, reducing irritation, and treating early signs of ageing, including fine lines and reduced elasticity. Plus, its regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties make it suitable for those who are recovering after more invasive aesthetic procedures, including microneedling, laser treatments, and chemical peels.

In fact, Dr Laftah adds that using these products after such traumatic treatments may even enhance delivery because the skin’s barrier has been temporarily disrupted. Although it should only be introduced in line with the treating clinician’s aftercare advice.

What’s the difference between PDRN injections and topical products?

As Dr Laftah stresses, the most robust data on PDRN supporting skin repair and reducing inflammation comes from injections rather than products applied to the face. “This is because PDRN consists of relatively large DNA fragments, so the skin’s outermost layer may substantially limit penetration.”

And as she warns, there’s a lot of clever marketing around the ingredient—but molecular size, concentration, stability and the delivery system matter; they greatly influence how much PDRN actually reaches the target skin cells and how effectively they work. “Products need to provide a stable delivery system that is designed to address its large size, limited skin permeability and susceptibility to degradation.”

Is there an optimal dose of PDRN?

In dermatology circles, a topical dose has not yet been established, although brands like Dr Reju-All have been conducting their own research.

The brand claims that their clinical studies have determined that 1,200ppm of 99%-pure PDRN yields the most complete regenerative benefits, without exceeding the skin’s absorption threshold. This tracks; as Dr Laftah tells Marie Claire UK, early studies of low-molecular-weight PDRN are promising. Higher concentrations may sound exciting, but they don’t penetrate deeper or work faster. Instead, they can increase the chance of adverse reactions.

What to look for in a PDRN product

If you’re in the market for a PDRN cream or serum, the derm recommends looking for the following: “A clearly disclosed PDRN source, concentration, and molecular profile.” If the concentration isn’t listed, it’s likely too low to show any viable results, and a lower molecular profile is generally favoured for increased absorption.”

Dr Laftah also recommends products that demonstrate human clinical studies of the finished product, and a complete ingredient list. “Good tolerability is much more important than marketing claims,” she concludes.

Derm-approved PDRN products

Sleepmaxxing, a term that's amassed millions of views across TikTok, promises to transform everything from your productivity and mood to your lifespan and skin health. As the name suggests, it involves optimising what we all spend around a third of our lives doing: sleeping.

When I first heard about sleepmaxxing, I dismissed it as another wellness trend overcomplicating something we do without thinking, and then perimenopause reared its head and, well, desperation had me rethinking all things sleep. As someone who never really had an issue sleeping (I just liked a lot of it), I found the unpredictable night sweats that woke me up at all hours of the night, the inability to fall back asleep as easily as I once did, and the nighttime anxiety that saw me lying in bed for hours unable to sleep – all left me feeling exhausted come morning. But I didn’t only feel rough; I looked rough too.

My skin was drier, duller and more reactive. Hormonal breakouts lingered for longer, redness became harder to calm, and that healthy glow I used to sport seemed to disappear overnight. My instinct was to switch up my skincare and book in for some hardcore aesthetic treatments, but as I started to research how best to get my glow back, I realised ‘beauty sleep’ isn’t just a phrase.

The Science of Sleepmaxxing

We may think of sleep as relaxing ‘downtime’, but our bodies are hard at work while we’re catching zzz’s. "All functions that have to do with regeneration, healing, growing and system maintenance happen while we sleep. This applies to all body systems, think, muscle growth, wound healing, immune modulation and brain programming. It is as fundamental a function as eating and breathing," reveals consultant neurologist and sleep physician at longevity hospital Reborne, Dr Oliver Bernath.

Poor sleep usually shows up first as sleepiness, reduced focus, lower performance and a shorter temper. “Over time, if it continues, it can also affect appetite, immune function and raise cardiovascular and metabolic risk. In simple terms, poor sleep doesn't just make you tired; it makes it harder for both your body and mind to function well," says Oura Senior Director of Product Science, Mari Karsikas.

We cycle through light sleep, deep slow-wave sleep and REM (rapid eye movement) sleep several times each night, with each stage performing a different role. "Light sleep is no less important than deep sleep," says Bernath. "It's simply easier to wake someone from it. Deep sleep seems to have more to do with system maintenance of vital functions, while REM sleep has more to do with creativity and new learning, and light sleep contributes to memory formation and learning," he explains.

But when it comes to our skin, deep sleep is key. “Growth hormone secretion peaks in the first few hours of deep sleep, and this is what drives skin cell turnover and collagen production. Blood flow to the skin also increases, delivering more oxygen and nutrients to support that repair work.

Meanwhile, cortisol—which breaks down collagen and increases oil production and inflammation when chronically elevated—is naturally at its lowest during deep sleep. This means that for some hours the skin can focus on rebuilding without having to defend itself at the same time,” reveals aesthetic doctor, Alicia Gonzalez-Fernandez.

However, despite the fact that when sleep is disrupted the brain prioritises deep sleep, there’s only so much of it that you can get if you’re not asleep for long enough, says Bernath. That’s why, according to Gonzalez-Fernandez, “people with consistently poor sleep show significantly more visible signs of skin ageing and conditions like acne and hyperpigmentation than good sleepers. And while skincare can support the skin's environment, it can’t replace the growth hormone release and collagen synthesis that happens during deep sleep."

With this in mind, I wondered if consistent ‘good’ sleep would translate into healthier skin and rid me of my skin woes? And there was only one way to find out, so I spent six months putting the most popular sleepmaxxing hacks to the test; here’s how it went…

The Benefits of Sleep Tracking

While I know health trackers can trigger anxiety and perfectionism, I am a big fan of data. So, I was willing to run the risk of getting a little addicted to my sleep scores if it meant I’d get a better understanding of my perimenopause symptoms and how they were impacting my sleep patterns.

The Oura Health & Fitness Tracker Smart Ring, from £229.99, felt like the best option for this, not only does it monitor how long you sleep, it tracks the quality and architecture of your sleep too, measuring how much time you spend awake, in light sleep, deep sleep and REM sleep, alongside metrics such as your resting heart rate, heart rate variability (HRV), respiratory rate, body temperature and overnight movement to generate a daily Sleep Score and Readiness Score. Worn on your finger, where, according to Oura, blood flow can be measured more accurately than at the wrist, the ring combines these physiological signals to build a detailed picture of how well you've recovered overnight.

I discovered very quickly that on the nights I had woken up drenched in sweat, I experienced more fragmented sleep, and I generally slept less too. And while knowing how this perimenopause symptom impacted my sleep didn’t mean I knew how to stop it from happening, it did mean the Oura AI could tell me when I typically experienced night sweats, which meant I could pre-empt them and plan accordingly – think keeping my room cool, ditching my duvet, wearing breathable clothes and sleeping on top of a towel. Over time this meant I sweated less and slept better.

Another interesting insight the ring gave me was my chronotype, a measure of my body's natural sleep-wake preference. Rather than simply telling me to go to bed earlier, it identified that I’m an evening type, confirming that my body naturally prefers a later bedtime. It was surprisingly reassuring because I’ve had periods when I’ve forced myself to go to bed early, only to twiddle my thumbs for hours and feel like a failure for not being able to sleep before midnight.

"Society tends to favour morning people. But humans evolved with different chronotypes. Meaning sleep before midnight isn't automatically better for everyone. Consistency, getting enough sleep, and aligning with your own circadian rhythm matters more," reveals Karsikas. Bernath agrees, warning that, "the most important thing is to keep the 24-hour body clock stable. Getting up at the same time every morning, followed by exposure to bright light, is the most important change people can make." So, instead of feeding my anxiety, my Oura Ring also helped me implement a consistent time for bed and for waking up, which dramatically improved my sleep and readiness scores.

Mouth Taping Isn't For Everyone

One of the most talked about sleepmaxxing trends has to be mouth taping. The theory is that encouraging nasal breathing may reduce snoring and improve sleep quality. "If you breathe through the mouth, you get a dry mouth, a higher risk of sore throats and infections too," explains Bernath. Not only that, but mouth breathing pushes the jaw and tongue further back, increasing the risk of obstructive sleep apnoea, which, according to Bernath, is “a hugely underdiagnosed epidemic.” It occurs when the muscles in the throat relax too much during sleep, causing the airway to repeatedly narrow or collapse. “Each time this happens, the brain briefly wakes the person to reopen the airway, fragmenting sleep, often without them realising it. This cycle repeats throughout the night, often leaving people feeling tired despite spending enough time in bed,” adds Bernath.

I wasn’t sure I actually slept with my mouth open but I gave mouth taping a go just in case. However, I didn’t last long as it felt restrictive having my mouth taped shut, and by morning I’d wake up with it stuck to my sheet, having removed it in the night. The reason I kept taking it off could lie in the fact that for those of us with deviated septums (when the bone separating your nostrils is off centre), “mouth taping may not succeed, as the brain generally doesn't like breathing through a nostril that's too narrow," reveals Bernath. So, while he agrees it can be helpful, it only works if your anatomy allows for it.

Magnesium Boost

Oftentimes it’s hard to know if your supplements are working, especially if you’re taking a fair few. But I wasn’t taking anything at all when I added a dose of magnesium into my nightly wind-down routine. So, when I started noticing an improvement in my sleep, I was convinced that it was playing a major role.

“Magnesium is an essential mineral that helps regulate hundreds of processes throughout the body, including those involved in relaxing the nervous system, muscle function and preparing the body for sleep. It’s not a sleeping pill, but it does help the body to relax, which makes it easier to fall asleep,” explains Bernath. Not all forms of magnesium work in the same way, so for sleep it’s best to take magnesium (bis)glycinate as it combines magnesium with the amino acid glycine, which has calming properties of its own, and is less likely to cause digestive side effects than forms such as magnesium oxide or citrate.

I alternated between Elle Sera Magnesium Bisglycinate, from £28 and Artah Essential Magnesium, from £16.80, throughout my experiment. It didn't stop my night sweats or suddenly give me eight uninterrupted hours of sleep, but my Oura ring confirmed I was falling asleep quicker when taking it and I attribute that to how well it helped quieten my mental chatter at bedtime. I felt calmer, less physically restless and generally found it easier to drift off and stay asleep—I don’t go to bed without it now.

Skincare Designed for Sleep

Technically aligning your skincare with your body’s natural nighttime functions isn’t exactly sleepmaxxing, but rather skinmaxxing. However, I knew that by using what I’ve learnt about what’s happening to my skin while I sleep and then supporting my skin with some skincare switches, it would ultimately help me get my clear, even-toned, glowing complexion back faster.

“When deep sleep is consistently cut short, collagen production slows, cell renewal slows, and the skin's ability to repair daily micro-damage from UV or pollution falls behind. It's one of the reasons chronic poor sleep ages skin faster than almost any other lifestyle factor,” says Gonzalez-Fernandez. Add the impact on hormonal regulation that poor sleep has and this all translates into dull, dehydrated, pigmented, spotty, and wrinkled skin.

Gonzalez-Fernandez recommends retinoids, vitamin C, peptides, BHAs, AHAs, SPF and barrier repair actives like ceramides. At night, I kept things simple; I double-cleansed with the PCA Face Wash Oily/Problem, £39, which removes dirt, makeup, and excess oil while still being gentle on my barrier. I followed that with the Klira Special, from £59, a personalised prescription retinoid that’s combined with other actives to boost collagen production and speed up cell turnover. Come morning, I cleansed with the niacinamide-packed Vichy Fresh Cleansing Gel, £14, and followed this with the Sachi Skin Triphala Pigmentation Corrector, £90, to help even out my skin and get my glow back, thanks to anti-inflammatory and antibacterial Triphala, plus pigment-busting niacinamide and tranexamic acid. I then topped that with the Klira The Dayscript, from £66, which offers a full eight hours of sun protection, combined with additional personalised actives to support skin health. Finally, once a week I use the hydrating Kama Vanasara Rose Hydrating Mask, £46, and the Revision Triple Action Exfoliator, £80, to smooth, soften and brighten my skin.

The Verdict

So, did sleepmaxxing actually improve my skin? For me, the answer has to be a resounding yes. It took time, but the lines I’d developed around my eyes disappeared—note I think they were from dehydration rather than collagen loss, since my routine was already pretty stacked in collagen-boosting actives. The redness dissipated, my skin tone was more even, my skin was no longer as oily, and breakouts reduced in number and frequency.

I looked so much better, and I felt better too. I love that my Oura ring keeps me in the know regarding all things sleep, and I’m thrilled that adding magnesium to my routine has helped me doze off quicker.

But I can absolutely see why both Bernath and Oura believe the most important element of getting good sleep (and enough of it) is consistent timing—because sleeping at around the same time every night and waking up at the same time every morning (in accordance with my chronotype) has changed the game when it comes to my sleep and my skin.

I've been contending with acne for most of my life, which has led me to discover the exact skincare that I can trust not to cause breakouts. That includes SPF for acne—because a product that I use on my face daily has to be one that my complexion agrees with. Not to mention, applying SPF daily can prevent dark spots and hyperpigmentation that can be left behind after a breakout.

Although my skin is now much clearer than it used to be, it only takes one misstep for my chin to flare up with whiteheads and painful red bumps under the skin. Perfecting my skincare routine for acne has made the world of difference, so much so that I'm very reluctant to experiment with new products that could hinder my progress.

However, with gentle experimenting over the years, I've managed to curate a list of sunscreens that keep me safe from the sun without causing any breakouts. Whilst I'm confident in recommending the following SPFs, I always suggest doing a patch test on a small area of the face and introducing a new product gradually (and only one new product at a time) to ensure it won't create any issues for your skin type.

From oil control formulas to nourishing finishes to improve the skin barrier, these are my tried and tested favourites for acne-prone skin.

How We Test

The Marie Claire UK team takes product testing seriously, with a commitment to delivering accurate, honest and genuinely helpful reviews for our readers. For this piece, I tested each SPF for a minimum of one week, though some I've used for far longer. I assessed texture, absorption, residue and how each formula performed under makeup, checking in throughout the day for shine and general skin behaviour. At the end of each week, I looked for any increase in congestion or breakouts compared with my usual baseline.

The Best SPFs for Acne

• Best everyday: La Roche Posay, £17.60 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best oil control: SkinCeuticals, £40 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Most affordable: CeraVe, £17.90 at Boots
• Most hydrating: Aesop, £47 at Space NK
• Best for severe acne: Dr Sam's, £31 at Sephora
• Best SPF primer: Charlotte Tilbury, £42 at Sephora
• Best lightweight: Beauty Pie, £29 at Beauty Pie

Best everyday formula

La Roche-Posay almost single-handedly saw me through my severely acne-riddled teenage years, and it was the first brand that made a noticeable difference to my breakouts and complexion. I've trusted the products for years, and this SPF is one of my top picks for anyone acne-prone. It's designed for oily skin types, including skin prone to blemishes and sensitivity, with a mattifying effect that will prevent shininess throughout the day. It has a very watery, milky formula that turns invisible on the skin and feels weightless too. Despite being matte, it doesn't feel at all drying or chalky on the skin, and it provides a smoothing base for makeup application on top. It's a true all-rounder for acne-prone skin with impressive SPF 50.

Best oil control

SkinCeuticals has slowly but surely become one of my holy grail brands. Yes, the products are on the pricier side, but I've yet to encounter one that isn't worth every penny. This SPF has a thicker formula more like a mineral sunscreen, but it's still extremely easy to blend in and it doesn't leave a white cast. It feels more matte than the La-Roche Posay SPF, both to apply and on the skin, but it still sits comfortably and doesn't dry me out even though my skin isn't excessively oily. It works wonders at keeping shine at bay, and it's perfect for humid weather and preventing makeup from sliding around on the face. If you have particularly oily acne-prone skin, this will make a very noticeable difference to your complexion.

Most affordable

Although this SPF is designed with oily skin in mind, it's also suitable for normal skin and isn't excessively mattifying. It has a smooth, milky formula that's lightweight, breathable, and fast-absorbing for an invisible finish that primes the skin for makeup. One of my favourite things about this SPF is that it contains niacinamide, which has always worked brilliantly for preventing breakouts in my skin. It keeps oil to a minimum all day and won't clog pores either.

Most hydrating

Another SPF containing niacinamide, Aesop's lotion formula is both hydrating and nourishing. It's my top recommendation if your skin needs some TLC due to any tightness or discomfort, particularly if you apply any drying nighttime skincare for spots. It functions just like a regular day moisturiser with the addition of sun protection, but it doesn't leave the skin greasy or shiny. NB: this SPF isn't fragrance-free, so if you don't respond well to fragrance, you may want to try another formula. However, it has never caused me to break out or have any irritation.

Best for severe acne

If you have very acne-prone skin that needs a lot of care and attention, Dr Sam's Daily Sunscreen is a foolproof option. It's specifically designed for blemish-prone skin, with a soft-focus primer-like finish that applies like a moisturiser. It's fragrance-free, non-comedogenic, and formulated with niacinamide to brighten and boost the skin. It's an extremely minimalist SPF suitable for all skin types, and it perfectly balances sun protection with a comfortable feel that provides a skin-like finish with no added shine. It's a true all-rounder that will work for anyone with acne-prone skin.

Best SPF primer

For my skin, I've found that less is more—particularly in the daytime. The best way to keep my acne at bay is not going overboard under my makeup, and Charlotte Tilbury's SPF 50 primer offers exactly that. It kills two birds with one stone with priming and sun protection, as well as providing pollution defence to further halt skin stressors that can cause breakouts. It has a very subtle tint that leaves the skin with a beautiful glow and a weightless feel that's comfortable on the face. It also hydrates without a shiny finish, which makes for smooth makeup application.

Best lightweight SPF

The clue is in the name with Beauty Pie's SPF 50: it's a truly invisible, lightweight, watery formula that blends in with minimal effort. I've used it for years, and it has never failed me or caused blemishes. It's completely non-greasy and also acts as a primer, so you can expect a skin-like finish with natural radiance and no shine. The advanced UV filters also work to fight sunlight-induced inflammation, which can make red, painful breakouts less troublesome. With no white cast, it's suitable for all skin tones and requires minimal blending to sink in.

We can all remember what got us into collagen. Maybe it was the edible gummies or liquid gold drinks marketed to us on social media, or perhaps the topical serums that promised rejuvenation from the outside in. Injectable-wise, biostimulators developed in recent years – including Sculptra and Radiesse – are said to restore our collagen levels over time in a more comprehensive way, too. But it seems we’re never quite satisfied, always looking for the next best thing to restore our levels for youth and bounce.

Case in point: human tissue-derived treatments (known as human Acellular Dermal Matrix, or hADM), which are reportedly growing rapidly in South Korea. These use a collagen-rich 'extracellular matrix' derived from human skin, which is then formulated into an injectable for areas of the face, such as under the eyes.

But whose skin is the collagen used in these treatments coming from? Is it safe? And above that, is it ethical? There are plenty of unknowns when it comes to this controversial new procedure, not least what it says about our relationship with regenerative aesthetics and where it's headed in future.

Here's what you need to know, including whether this is set to appear in the UK any time soon.

What are 'human collagen treatments', and how do they work?

"Collagen is the main structural protein in our skin. It is what keeps it firm and bouncy, and it is the thing that naturally drops off as we age, which is why we start to see fine lines, crepiness, sagging and a loss of volume," explains Dr Christine Hall, Aesthetic Doctor at Taktouk Clinic and K-beauty expert. The aim of most collagen-based injectables, therefore, is to restore collagen levels for youth, longevity and overall skin health.

Treatments such as Elravie RE2O are reportedly set to be the next generation of regenerative collagen-stimulating procedures—notably because they use a collagen-rich 'extracellular matrix' derived from real human skin rather than from animals or synthetic, lab-grown alternatives. Usually the process goes something like this: skin is donated (usually from screened deceased donors), living cells are removed, DNA, blood vessels and other cellular material are removed, and what's left becomes an 'extracellular matrix' (ECM) that, once sterilised and ground into smaller particles, can be injected. The ECM is made up of collagen, elastin, proteins, and proteoglycans.

Lee Joon, MD, PhD, Medical Director at DOD Dermatology Clinic performs the treatment at his clinic in Seoul. He notes that for this procedure, "the mechanism is biostimulation, not volumising—it recruits host fibroblasts and induces neocollagenesis rather than merely filling space." This means results are focused on skin health and longevity rather than creating volume as filler does. While he makes clear that this kind of treatment isn't exactly 'replacing' filler (they do different things, after all), there's been a clear uptake in interest: "At our own clinic, usage has been climbing sharply relative to other skin boosters—for improving skin texture, fine lines, and pore refinement, and for softening dark circles."

Are these actually safe (or ethical)?

Here's where things get blurred, both in terms of safety and ethical implications.

To begin, it's important to note that human tissue-derived ECM treatments, such as Elravie RE2O, are very new to the market and not yet approved in many countries (primarily due to regulatory reasons). There have been very few human studies conducted so far on the safety and efficacy of the approach, with this paper being the most notable. Often referred to as the 'split-face' study, this study had 20 participants receive an injectable human collagen treatment on one side of their face and hyaluronic acid (HA) on the other. Results showed that the collagen-treated side improved skin across several metrics, including elasticity, hydration, and barrier function, compared with the HA-treated side.

That said, this experiment involved a very small cohort, and it only followed participants for 20 weeks following their procedures, meaning we don't yet have long-term data to support the narrative that this could be some 'game-changer' in injectables. And, one of the study's authors served as an advisor on the development of Elravie Re2O at the parent company, L&C Bio Co., Ltd.

There are also ethical considerations regarding these kinds of treatments. Korean classification rules mean products derived from donated human tissue often sit in something of a regulatory grey area. Dr Lee Joon says: "In Korea, these products are classified as 'human tissue,' not medical devices. Human tissue can be supplied to clinics without per-product approval from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS), whereas a medical device requires product-specific approval for its intended use and indications. This classification gap explains both the rapid spread and the current controversy."

For donors, too, there is the question of whether they knew (or fully understood) that their future skin donation could include cosmetic use—although L&C Bio’s chairman has previously said that Elravie RE20 uses only overseas donated human tissue for which consent for cosmetic use has been obtained.

However, as more ECM products enter the market, there have been issues with clarity and communication in some clinics. "There is a duty to disclose the raw-material origin, yet some clinics use euphemisms ('premium collagen')," says Dr Lee Joon, which can understandably feel confusing, unclear, and not fully truthful.

Why are they becoming so popular in South Korea?

The rise in popularity of collagen treatments is generally linked to the way aesthetics is heading as a whole: there's a focus on regeneration and skin health, rather than on obvious filling or volume. But now, new technologies and innovations are advancing alongside this desire for more effective regenerative treatments.

In Korea, demand for collagen regeneration has, in many cases, overtaken that for more 'traditional' injectable treatments such as hyaluronic acid fillers. Dr Lee Joon adds that "fatigue with filler complications" plus a sense of “human-derived = natural” has resulted in a "K-beauty premium narrative" for these newer treatments.

Could these treatments be coming to the UK?

As mentioned, this is still an area of cosmetic aesthetics that is massively in its infancy, even over in South Korea, where it's being used. It's also been a rather controversial point of contention for the medical world, so there are plenty of barriers for these kinds of treatments to overcome before they can become available in the UK (or if they ever will).

"This is a complex area, especially concerning the regulatory pathway for treatments involving donated human tissue/skin products for injectables in the UK, as they would need to go through rigorous assessment with the MHRA [Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency] as they'll be classified as medicines," comments Kam Kaur from The Cosmetic Regulator. "I don't see the MHRA approving human tissue/skin products for use in the UK, though, so any clinic offering this is likely to be non-compliant."

"The UK faces a much higher bar under the HTA (Human Tissue Authority) and MHRA for cadaver-derived tissue used in cosmetic injection," agrees Dr Lee Joon. "Expect rhCollagen, PLLA, PDRN, and exosome biostimulators to lead in the UK/EU instead."

As the doctor notes, there are plenty of other commonly used (and potentially less controversial) collagen-stimulating treatments you can have here. These include biostimulators such as polynucleotides, Sculptra, and Radiesse, as well as radiofrequency approaches such as Morpheus8. Also evolving is recombinant collagen, which is produced in a lab using genetically engineered cells rather than extracted from human or animal tissue. For many, this may feel like a safer, more ethical injectable alternative for the future.

You should always choose a qualified practitioner who is recommended and has expertise and experience in the chosen treatment.

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

Whilst there is plenty to love about the summer months, there are also several downsides that make me resent spending more time in my swimming costume. Namely, contending with ingrown hairs and KP bumps, alongside being much sweatier than usual. However, glycolic acid has quickly become the hero multi-use product to tackle almost every summer skin woe you could think of.

"Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from sugar cane," explains Dr Nora Jaafar, Dermatological doctor. "It exfoliates by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, helping to improve skin texture, brightness and overall smoothness."

By gently chemically exfoliating, it directly targets the causes of keratosis pilaris, prevents ingrown hairs, and can even lower the skin's pH which can stop odour-causing bacteria growing. Here's what the experts want you to know about using glycolic acid this summer, and how to do so safely.

Why is glycolic acid so popular?

"It's one of the most effective ingredients for improving skin texture, smoothing rough patches and giving the skin a brighter, healthier appearance," explains Dr Anna Andrienko, Dermatologist & Aesthetic Doctor at Dr Ducu Clinics. This, coupled with its gentle formula, make it a brilliant multi-tasker that can suit most skin types.

Is glycolic acid good for dry, rough skin?

"Glycolic acid is excellent for areas like the elbows, knees and heels where dead skin can build up," says Dr Andrienko. "By gently exfoliating the surface, it helps smooth roughness and allows moisturisers to penetrate more effectively."

But it's important not to go overboard with it, particularly if it's new to your routine. "Overuse can worsen dryness, so it should always be paired with a good moisturiser," says Dr Nora.

Can it help keratosis pilaris (KP)?

"Glycolic acid helps break down the excess keratin that blocks hair follicles, reducing the rough bumps associated with keratosis pilaris. Consistent use is needed, as KP is a long-term genetic condition," explains Dr Nora. Although you shouldn't expect overnight results, you're likely to notice a big difference over time.

Does glycolic acid help with ingrown hairs?

"Glycolic acid can be very helpful for preventing ingrown hairs. By keeping the skin exfoliated, it reduces the likelihood of hairs becoming trapped beneath the surface. It's particularly useful on the legs, bikini line and underarms, but it shouldn't be used straight after shaving or waxing as this can cause irritation," says Dr Andrienko.

Moreover, "it may also help fade the dark marks left behind after ingrown hairs heal," explains Dr Nora. Although it isn't guaranteed to eradicate these problems completely, it can make a huge difference as a regular part of your routine.

Can glycolic acid help with body odour?

"Glycolic acid lowers the skin’s pH, making it a less favourable environment for odour-causing bacteria. While it’s not a replacement for deodorant, many people find it helps reduce underarm odour," says Dr Nora.

Dr Andrienko notes that "glycolic acid doesn't stop you sweating," but explains that "some people find it helps reduce odour when used on areas such as the underarms, but it should only be applied to healthy, unbroken skin and not immediately after shaving."

Is glycolic acid safe to use during summer?

"Glycolic acid can be used safely in summer as long as you wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30-50 every day. It can make skin more sensitive to UV light, so sun protection is essential," says Dr Nora.

Dr Andrienko agrees, noting that "it's best applied in the evening, and sunscreen should always be worn on exposed areas during the day. If you're spending prolonged periods in strong sunshine, it's sensible to reduce how often you use it to avoid irritation."

Who should avoid glycolic acid?

"Those with eczema, rosacea or a damaged skin barrier should use glycolic acid cautiously, as it can cause irritation. It’s best introduced gradually, starting once or twice a week," says Dr Nora.

Mistakes to avoid

Although it can be tempting to start slathering glycolic acid on your whole body, approach with caution. "One of the biggest mistakes is using glycolic acid too often or combining it with several other active ingredients, such as retinoids or strong exfoliating acids, in the same routine. This can damage the skin barrier and lead to redness, dryness and sensitivity. Start slowly, use it a few times a week, and increase frequency only if your skin tolerates it well," says Dr Andrienko.

Shop glycolic acid

An increasingly familiar scene is playing out on TikTok: a 20-something girl slathers her body in tan-accelerating oil, then lies out in peak sun. Next, the camera zooms in on her walnut-coloured tan and the stark outline of her bikini straps. What follows are remarks about the UV Index. “As soon as that UV Index starts hitting six and up, this is where I’m at,” says one TikToker, reclining on her sun lounger, a tub of Carroten in shot. “I’m roasting, and I love it; I love every minute of it. I have my little book with me, I’ve got my tanning gel, I’ve got my water, my phone’s on do not disturb. Life is good, man.” While another boasts, “A little burn goes a long way.” Welcome to Gen Z’s disturbing new world of ‘tanmaxxing’.

As the name suggests, the viral trend is all about maximising your deepest, darkest tan. It encourages you to use the UV Index, which measures the intensity of the sun’s rays, to find times when the risk of burning is highest. Some devotees are taking the trend even further by turning to Melanotan, an unlicensed synthetic peptide that mimics the hormone that stimulates melanin production. Marketed as a shortcut to a deeper tan with less sun exposure, it carries significant health risks and has been linked to the darkening of existing moles, the appearance of new moles and freckles, and other changes in skin pigmentation.

There’s an outcry from doctors and dermatologists, who call the trend “extremely dangerous”. The premise of tanmaxxing is, after all, to shun SPF in favour of deliberately exposing the skin to UV rays at their most powerful. “A tan is essentially your skin responding to injury,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, a GP and aesthetics doctor. “When your skin is exposed to ultraviolet light, it produces more melanin (the pigment that gives skin its colour) in an attempt to protect the DNA within skin cells from further damage.”

Dr Brendan Khong, a medical and aesthetic doctor, says the long-term effects are deeply problematic. “Every deliberate tanning session, whether it’s ‘creating a base tan’ or a ‘filter-ready glow’, is banking DNA damage in skin cells,” he explains. “That damage doesn’t repair itself – it accumulates.”

It will, at best, manifest as premature ageing—wrinkles, pigmentation, loss of elasticity—and, at worst, cause skin cancer. Gen Z already knows that. Yet they’re tanmaxxing anyway. These are the same girls who raided Sephora for Drunk Elephant’s retinol and vitamin C serums, and whose slavish following of TikTok ‘skinfluencers’ turned the likes of Hyram Yarbro into a superstar. So what’s changed?

What’s driving the tanmaxxing trend?

There’s a fair amount to unpack here. Let’s start with how, in recent years, tan lines have gone from naff to sexy in popular culture. Singer Addison Rae proved the point by appearing in Perfect magazine under the headline “Addison Rae is Full-Hot” with the pale outline of her bikini etched onto nearly-naked, bronzed skin. Meanwhile, over on Instagram, the cool girls are making a case for sunburn blush, a technique where reddish-coloured blush is swept over the cheeks and bridge of the nose to look like you’ve spent too long in the sun.

It also leans into the controversial ‘looksmaxxing’ conversation, which endorses extreme measures for extreme results to maximise physical attractiveness, says Chelsea Mtada, a trends analyst, beauty consultant and founder of I.T Girl Intelligence.

Others believe that tanmaxxing is an act of rebellion, in much the same way that smoking is back in fashion and giving the booming wellness industry the middle finger. Dr Khong isn’t so sure. He believes the motivation for tanmaxxing runs much deeper. “Gen Z absolutely knows the skin cancer statistics—they have grown up with SPF campaigns and dermatologist content on their feeds,” he says. “But knowing a risk intellectually and feeling it emotionally are two different things, especially when the visible reward—tanned, sun-kissed, ‘snatched’ skin—is immediate and the consequences are decades away.”

Gen Z’s mindset post Covid may also play a part. “Gen Z came of age during a period defined by uncertainty and cancelled futures,” Dr Khong notes. “That has fed a broader cultural pull towards instant gratification—not just in tanning, but in how this generation approaches health generally. It’s less a conscious act of defiance and more that long-term consequences feel abstract compared to how a tan looks in a photo today.” This reflects the findings of the Canadian Dermatology Association into the disconnect between tanning behaviours and rising skin cancer rates among Gen Z. Research found that nearly 39% intentionally tanned during the previous year, 45% say it makes them feel more confident, and 37% say they look better in photos.

Much of its appeal also comes down to how a tan is perceived as the ultimate summer fantasy. “The Gen Z audience was never loyal,” says Mtada. "From clean girl to skinification, this was an audience that was always going to follow the lead of the algorithm. In 2026, bronzed bodies on Love Island and ‘Euro summer’ are the aspirational mood board.” During a cost-of-living crisis, a tan says “I can afford to go on holiday.” It’s also associated with looking slimmer, healthier and more attractive—“beauty standards that social media reinforces,” Dr Muntasar adds.

Much of this messaging comes from ‘tanfluencers’, who discuss the necessary steps to get a deep tan in much the same way people talk about their skincare routines. “Platforms like TikTok can normalise behaviour very quickly,” Dr Muntasar says. “When someone sees hundreds of videos promoting tanning as part of a beauty routine, the risks can start to feel distant or less important, particularly because skin cancer often develops years later, rather than immediately after sun exposure. Once something is labelled as ‘self-care’, people naturally become less cautious about it.”

And, last, but by no means least, there’s the psychology of a tan. For many people, a tan and a smattering of sunburn are associated with positive memories. Robyn, a 23-year-old social media manager, says: “I associate a tan with summer, with holidays, with feeling ‘glowy’—all things that make me feel happy and beautiful. I think tan lines look quite sexy, and the marketing around them as an accessory has definitely made an impression on me. Tanning as an adult also feels like a reclamation of my brown skin, which I used to hate seeing darken in the sun, afraid it would make me stand out more than I already did among my white friends.”

She goes on to say, “I do worry about my skin and have a lot of anxiety about it drying out or getting damaged while I tan. I always make sure my face and neck are slathered in a high-factor sunscreen, but I’m more careless with the rest of my body.”

Is there such thing as a 'healthy tan'?

The safe sun guidelines remain true: “Seek shade during peak UV hours; wear protective clothing, sunglasses and wide-brimmed hats where practical and avoid the temptation to use sunbeds,” says Dr Muntasar. But as an aesthetic, a tan needn’t be demonised—false tan can create beautifully sunkissed limbs, just without the damage.

And while the UV Index is a useful guide, some experts now say that you don't need to wear SPF if the UV index is 3 or under, unless you have a family history of melanoma, lots of moles or you’re using retinol. “Most international guidance recommends sun protection when the UV Index reaches 3 or above because that’s the point at which UV radiation becomes strong enough to cause skin damage with prolonged exposure,” Dr Muntasar says. “If you’re briefly walking from your house to your car on a winter morning with a UV Index of 1 or 2, the risk is obviously very different from lying in the midday sun during summer. Personally, I wear SPF every morning because it’s a simple habit that removes the guesswork.”

Tanmaxxing is the other extreme end of the spectrum. It’s also undoubtedly harmful, especially given that a 2025 survey by the American Academy of Dermatology found that half of Gen Z respondents had already got sunburnt, and most said they often forget to wear sunscreen.

There’s also an argument that suncare brands need to rethink their messaging. “Their communication has been explicit about the face and the neck, where selfies are the dominant way Gen Z consumers perceive themselves,” says Mtada. “That's where protection is guarded. But where brands haven't paid enough attention is protecting the body against the sun.”

I nursed my mum through three episodes of stage 4 skin cancer. I know first-hand how gruelling the treatment is: surgery, where large chunks of your flesh are sliced away, and immunotherapy drugs that can cause dangerously high fevers, possible organ damage and the top layer of your skin to painfully peel away. That is, if you’re lucky enough to live near an NHS hospital that offers the treatment. If not, prepare to fork out over £4K privately per infusion. I also know that treatment doesn’t always work. Surely no fleeting TikTok trend or hot girl summer is worth that.

When it comes to seasonally scented body care, I’m jumping in there headfirst. The moment June arrives, every product in my routine gets a warm-weather upgrade. And I mean all—shower gel, body lotion, body mist and even my deodorant. If it doesn't smell like summer, it's off the shelf.

Switching my scents with the seasons is one of the easiest ways to feel more connected to the time of year, whatever the weather is doing (January, I'm looking at you). And summer body care is particularly transportive: fresh citrus, creamy coconut, juicy fruits and salty sea air can make an ordinary morning routine feel like the start of a holiday, even if you're staying firmly at home.

The best part is that summer-inspired body care has become far more sophisticated in recent years. Gone are the days of sickly-sweet tropical scents; today's launches are fresher, more nuanced and undeniably elevated. Whether you gravitate towards sun-warmed citrus, creamy coconut or breezy coastal notes, these are my favourites.

Summer-Scented Body Washes

Summer-Scented Body Scrubs

Summer-Scented Body Oils

Summer-Scented Body Moisturisers

Summer-Scented Deodorants

Summer-Scented Body Mists

Fragrances

Beauty insiders, biohackers and longevity enthusiasts are going crazy for copper, more specifically, GHK-Cu, a copper peptide linked to everything from wound healing and collagen production to thicker, healthier-looking hair. From supplements and serums to creams and injectables, you may have noticed it all over your social feeds. But despite the sudden surge in popularity, it’s actually not a new ingredient. So, with that in mind, is it really the Wunderkind everyone’s claiming it to be? We spoke to the experts to find out…

GHK-Cu explained

When it comes to peptides, “think of them like keys that open up different locks,” shares Dr Omar Babar, medical director at Healand Clinic. “Each key latches onto a specific lock aka a receptor in the body, and unlocks a specific process like making collagen, repairing tissue, releasing a hormone, and so on," he adds.

GHK-Cu is a naturally occurring peptide made up of three amino acids—glycine, histidine and lysine—which binds to a copper ion, forming a compound the body uses as a repair signal. When our tissue is damaged, GHK-Cu gets to work by stimulating collagen production, calming inflammation, and signalling cells to regenerate.

As we age, our natural levels of GHK-Cu drop significantly. "By boosting it, you're allowing the skin to do what it's naturally supposed to be doing: stimulating repair mechanisms and supporting its own healing properties," explains Babar. So, it makes sense that there’s so much interest in replenishing natural stores through serums, supplements and injectable protocols.

GHK-Cu skin benefits

GHK-Cu signals fibroblasts (the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin) to ramp up production. It also functions as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. This makes the peptide quite unique. As Alejandro Saldarriaga, head of applied research at DECIEM, explains, they “support several aspects of healthy-looking skin rather than focusing on a single visible concern.”

And according to Dr Charlie Cox, longevity doctor at longevity hospital Reborne, “the topical skin evidence is the most solid data when it comes to the effectiveness of GHK-Cu, as studies show an improvement in firmness, texture, tone and fine lines.”

Take the stats on the NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 31:1, for example. A lightweight, water-based serum designed to support overall skin quality, including firmness, elasticity, smoothness, and radiance. Studies found that twice-daily use of the product for 12 weeks visibly repairs multiple types of facial wrinkles, including crow's feet, nasolabial folds, marionette lines, forehead lines, and glabellar wrinkles. It also showed significant improvement in skin tone evenness at four and eight weeks, and in elasticity at four weeks.

It’s impressive, which is why it’s being compared to the gold standard ‘skin perfector’ retinol, as it offers similar results despite GHK-Cu being far more tolerable for sensitive or reactive skin types. "Retinol works by accelerating the skin's renewal processes, while copper peptides support the skin's natural repair and renewal mechanisms. For some individuals, this can make copper peptides a valuable alternative or complement to retinoids, particularly when skin comfort and tolerability are important considerations," says Saldarriaga.

What GHK-Cu does for hair

People across social media have been raving about the impressive hair growth they’ve noticed while using GHK-Cu, especially when injecting the stuff (more on that later). In theory, it makes sense that this copper peptide could “help improve blood supply to the follicle, support tissue repair, and prolong the hair growth phase,” explains Hannah Gaboardi, trichologist and founder of The Hannah Gaboardi Clinic. And that’s because GHK-Cu activates the Wnt/beta-catenin signalling pathway (the biological mechanism that pushes follicles from their resting phase back into active growth), while also reducing inflammation around each follicle, which over time can shorten the growth cycle, as well as contribute to strands growing back finer and weaker.

The copper peptide might also be helpful in treating telogen effluvium, the type of diffuse shedding triggered by stress, illness, surgery, hormonal changes, nutritional deficiencies or significant weight loss. While it doesn't address the underlying trigger, "by supporting cellular signalling, reducing inflammation and promoting scalp health, it can complement a treatment plan focused on correcting the root cause," says Gaboardi.

She stresses that this caveat matters, as "peptides alone are unlikely to resolve telogen effluvium if the underlying trigger remains unaddressed. The most important step is identifying and correcting the cause, whether that is low iron, vitamin deficiencies, thyroid dysfunction, stress or hormonal changes." The same logic applies to androgenetic alopecia. Since GHK-Cu has no effect on DHT - the hormone that drives this common form of female hair loss - it can't be used as a substitute for treatments that target DHT directly like minoxidil.

“Since it's relatively new, we don't have enough long-term research compared to the likes of minoxidil or other DHT blockers, or even in-clinic treatments like PRP," notes Gaboardi. So, realistically, where it is likely to genuinely help is with diffuse thinning, post-damage recovery, weakened strands, and a compromised scalp environment—as we do know it supports the conditions needed for healthy growth.

Delivery methods decoded

Bioavailability, which is essentially how much of an active actually reaches your bloodstream or target tissue, varies wildly depending on the delivery method. "Anything taken orally, only 20 to 40 per cent will get absorbed into the bloodstream as the rest gets destroyed in the stomach. When injected beyond the skin barrier and into the tissues, you get the highest bioavailability of all—anywhere from 90 per cent all the way up to 99 per cent. And then topicals sit somewhere in between, with absorption varying depending on the size of the molecule," shares Babar.

For most people, topical application of GHK-Cu purchased from a reputable source, paired with microneedling, is the most accessible and the safest avenue. The micro-channels created by the tiny needles improve penetration, so you increase bioavailability without the need for injection, which is where things get considerably murkier.

A word on injectable peptides

A huge and largely unregulated market has emerged around injectable peptides, with most bought directly online - think longevity compounds, tanning agents, and recovery aids. “The GLP-1 boom is largely responsible. As many of these compounds aren't new discoveries, they were researched decades ago and shelved, sometimes for commercial reasons, sometimes simply because society wasn't ready for at-home injecting. But the popularity of weight-loss jabs has made self-injecting completely normal for millions who'd never previously considered it, and that comfort has spilt over into peptides. A whole industry is now poised to launch because of the normalisation of self-injecting,” reveals Babar, who offers a range of ‘for research purposes only’ peptides at his clinic.

‘Research purposes’ is the key here, as GHK-Cu and other popular peptides “don’t hold a marketing authorisation, so they cannot lawfully be sold or marketed for human use,” reveals Cox. They can be used by an individual for research purposes, but the risk is that, as of yet, we don’t have the same clinical trial data as with the likes of Ozempic and Mounjaro. Meaning injectable peptides can be risky business, as most people buying peptides online have absolutely no idea if what they’re taking is legit.

“We literally spend thousands of pounds testing and vetting our peptides before you can actually use them for clinic purposes. But that’s not the case for a lot of the suppliers people buy from. God knows where they're produced, in what conditions, how they're being stored, and how they’re shipped from country to country,” says Babar.

Whether it’s GHK-Cu or another peptide, the biggest risk has very little to do with the molecule itself and everything to do with what you're actually injecting. In recent years independent testing of consumer peptides bought online has repeatedly found a significant proportion failing basic quality checks, with live bacteria, heavy metals and bacterial endotoxin (which can cause serious illness and even death) being present in samples.

Even if your peptides are the real deal, they could be dangerous for your health. Take Melanotan, a synthetic peptide that mimics the hormone that stimulates melanin production, pushing pigment-producing cells to work harder for a faster, deeper tan without time in the sun. The skin cancer risk can’t be ignored, as “people have reported existing moles becoming darker, new freckles or moles appearing and changes in pigmentation,” shares Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and founder of The Aesthetics Doctor Clinic. He advises against using melanotan, noting that “any change in a mole is something we take very seriously because it can potentially make it harder to identify early warning signs of melanoma.”

Is GHK-Cu worth a try?

When it comes to using GHK-Cu topically on the skin, the answer is a resounding yes. However, “consumers should also be aware that not all copper peptide products are made equal. The form of the peptide, the amount used, and the surrounding formulation can vary considerably from product to product,” warns Saldarriaga.

As for our hair, the science is plausible, but the proof isn't there yet, and it's no substitute for treatments that address hormonal hair loss directly. So, if you fancy giving it a shot, “prioritise reputable brands that provide clinical data, research and transparent ingredient lists,” shares Gaboardi.

And when it comes to injectable GHK-Cu, Saldarriaga points out that it’s worth remembering that “copper peptides have a long history of use in skincare, with origins in dermatology and medicine stretching back to the late 1980s. Whereas many injectable peptide protocols are still supported by a more limited body of evidence. As with any emerging area, it's important that growing interest is matched by continued research.” That might mean right now the risks outweigh the rewards. But if you’re keen to give it a go, be sure to source your injectable peptides through a properly vetted clinician rather than social media.

GHK-Cu products to try now

If there's one thing I can't stand, it's a thick, chalky facial sunscreen. Not only do they feel uncomfortable on the skin, but they can also make makeup application a nightmare. That's why I've made it my mission to find lightweight facial SPFs that offer brilliant protection but are invisible on the skin and sink in effortlessly. After some serious testing, I've finally discovered formulas I can wear daily that leave no trace.

Although I love an SPF moisturiser, it doesn't always offer enough protection in the summer months. Not to mention, they don't tend to have any water-resistant properties to contend with swimming or sweat.

When it comes to SPFs for under makeup, a milky formula, hydrating ingredients, and minimal greasiness are non-negotiable. These tried-and-tested lightweight SPFs offer all these properties, with high UV protection above all.

Best lightweight facial SPFs: Quick shopping links

• Best overall: £88 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Most affordable: £14.32 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best milky: £49 at Space NK
• Best tinted: £21.60 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best mist: £11.19 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best brightening: £65 at Space NK
• Best water-resistant: £42 at Selfridges
• Most hydrating: £12.40 at LookFantastic (save 20%)

Best lightweight facial SPFs 2026

The Augustinus Bader sunscreen is one of the Marie Claire team's all-time favourites, and it's still one of my most used SPFs over a year after its launch. There's so much to love about this formula, from its patented healing Trigger Factor Complex (TFC8®) that enhances the skin to its beautifully hydrating finish that leaves the skin with a natural glow—no greasiness whatsoever. The high SPF 50 protects you even on the sunniest of days, and it helps minimise the appearance of fine lines, dullness and age spots whilst you wear it. It has a moisturiser-like finish with a creamy feel, and it sinks in almost immediately with an invisible finish. Yes, it's on the pricey side, but considering the wonders it does for your skin, I think it's more than worth it.

Not only is CeraVe's Invisible Hydrating Fluid Sunscreen one of the most affordable on the market, but it boasts a milky formula with zero white cast. Infused with three essential ceramides, it helps to hydrate the skin for a radiant, plumped appearance, and it nourishes your moisture barrier too. It has a subtly dewy finish that layers very nicely with makeup, but it doesn't get shiny or oily throughout the day. I'm a big fan of the squeezy packaging for easy application, and it's suitable for all skin types and colours. If you have problematic skin and want a fragrance-free formula that won't trigger breakouts, this is a brilliant option.

I'm a sucker for a milky SPF, but not all lightweight sunscreens fall into that category. A milky formula tends to be both light and extra hydrating, ideal for dry or dehydrated skin types that need a nourishing boost. Tatcha's newest SPF does exactly that, leaving a dewy finish that makes the skin naturally glowy. I love how undetectable this sunscreen is, as well as how well it instantly soothes tight skin thanks to vitamin E and encapsulated ectoin. You can expect zero white cast and day-long hydration that keeps you protected from UV rays.

More like a tinted serum than a traditional SPF, La Roche Posay's Anthelios UVAIR formula has a thicker finish than other lightweight facial sunscreens. However, it blends in within seconds and sinks right into the skin for comfortable wear with a natural finish. It's more on the matte side, offering a skin-like appearance with concealing and blurring properties. It doesn't provide full coverage in the way a foundation would, but it definitely reduces my redness and makes any dark spots or discolouration much less noticeable. It's my top pick if you want a your-skin-but-better look with UV protection, and the finish lasts up to 16 hours to contend with the summer heat. I'm wearing shade light, and it hardly took any blending with my hands to get a natural look.

The beauty of an SPF mist is how versatile it is; wear under or over makeup without disturbing your products, and use it to top up throughout the day too. Garnier's formula is as close to weightless as it gets, whilst still providing SPF 50 to keep your skin protected. The addition of vitamin C helps to lighten dark spots on the face and add some glow, and the mist itself disappears almost instantly after spraying. The only downside is that it doesn't last as long as liquid formulas, but the budget-friendly price tag makes it more than worth it.

It's no secret that sun exposure can make dark spots and hyperpigmentation worse, so a formula that protects from UV rays and addresses these skin concerns is a winner in my book. Ranavat's mineral formula offers instant SPF 50 protection, as well as saffron to brighten and squalane to moisturise skin and strengthen the skin barrier. It's light and dewy when squeezed out, and feels significantly lighter and smoother than other mineral sunscreens that tend to be thicker. I love it as an even base for applying makeup with no slipperiness, and the added skincare benefits make it a 2-in-1 product in my daily routine.

If I'm on holiday, I rarely go a full hour without jumping in the pool or sea—so a water-resistant SPF is essential. But even when I'm at home, a London heatwave also calls for UV protection that I won't sweat off. The Dr. Dennis Gross All Physical Ultimate Defense SPF 50 is both water and sweat-resistant for long lasting protection, but it's another sunscreen that has a hydrating and milky formula. The finish is very subtly dewy without oiliness, and it has both a pump and squeezy tube so you can get every last drop. Another huge plus is that it's fragrance-free, so won't irritate sensitive or acne-prone skin.

This SPF was the first Beauty of Joseon product I fell in love with, and you can see from my almost-empty tube that it's been well loved. It sits somewhere between a milk and a cream, so it's extremely light as well as nourishing and hydrating. It's completely non-greasy and suitable for all skin types thanks to the gentle formula, and it's one of my favourites for wearing under makeup. It provides a hydrated base without any chalkiness whatsoever, acting like a gorgeous primer. Plus, it's ridiculously affordable for SPF 50.

Growing-up, when I thought about a facelift, I envisioned rich old ladies with distorted facial features, unnaturally tight skin, and tell-tale scarring. Now, with celebs being more transparent about the work they have had, I, along with everyone else have become more aware of what a good facelift can do. And that offers a natural-looking, yet completely transformative youth boost. Kris Jenner, Sia, Lindsay Lohan (allegedly), and at least a dozen Bravo Housewives have wowed us with their new faces. So, now, as going under the knife has become more normalised than ever before—I’m starting to consider the surgery I once thought I’d never have.

I’m not alone, as according to the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAPPS), face and neck lifts rose by 11 per cent in 2025, while brow lifts, which are typically combined with facelifts, increased by a whopping 27 per cent. So, as the reality became not if, but when would I get a facelift, I also started to wonder if I would have to start planning my longstanding and future aesthetic treatments around my desire to go under the knife.

“You absolutely do,” shared plastic surgeon, and Mallucci London founder, Patrick Mallucci. “The road to surgery requires as much thought as the surgery itself, because what many patients don’t realise is that the aesthetic treatments you have in the years, months and even weeks before a facelift can significantly affect the surgery and the outcome.”

Facelifts, explained

Ponytail facelift, deep-plane facelift, SMAS facelift. There is a plethora of terms for what plastic surgeon and aesthetic doctor, Lara De Luca, explains is essentially, “a surgical procedure that repositions and tightens the facial tissues and removes excess skin to restore a more youthful appearance.” What makes the latest facelift techniques better than facelifts of old is that, “modern facelifts focus on lifting and repositioning the underlying structures of the face rather than simply pulling the skin tight. This creates more natural-looking, longer-lasting results and avoids the overly stretched appearance that was sometimes associated with older techniques,” adds De Luca. But like with most aesthetic treatments and surgical procedures, one size does not fit all. “Every surgeon has their own technique, and every technique has its advantages and disadvantages. The buzz surrounding particular techniques on social media can be misleading and a distraction from the more important conversation about which technique suits you best,” adds Mallucci.

What suits you will largely be dictated by several factors: your bone structure, skin thickness, fat distribution, the level of sagging, as well as how much downtime you're willing to accept and your long-term goals. Age doesn’t really play a role, as it's less about how old you are and more about how soon you show signs of ageing. "Some patients may be suitable candidates in their 40s or earlier, particularly if they have experienced significant weight loss (often assisted by GLP-1s), extensive sun damage or have a strong genetic tendency towards early facial ageing. Others may not consider surgery until their 60s or later. Genetics, lifestyle, skin quality and facial structure all play a role," shares De Luca.

The treatments that can complicate things

Timing is key. Not just when you decide to go under the knife, but how you plan the aesthetic treatments that are often booked to push surgery further down the line—and, increasingly, which treatments you've been told to fear versus which ones actually deserve the reputation. TikTok is awash with videos vilifying certain treatments as facelift-ruiners. The truth, however, is far more nuanced than the discourse suggests.

Sculptra, in particular, has become a scapegoat for a problem that's largely historic. Plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Ashwin Soni explains that complaints traced back to how the product was used years ago, not the product itself. "Sculptra comes as plant-derived microparticles mixed with sterile water, and very early on, some providers weren't diluting it enough," he says. "Injected too concentrated—and often too deep, in the same plane surgeons later need to work on during a facelift—it triggered a collagen response that could potentially cause lumps, leading to a lasting reputation".

The good news is that dilution protocols have moved on, and most biostimulators now follow far more conservative guidelines. Soni often recommends Sculptra to his own patients, both to improve skin elasticity ahead of a facelift and to maintain results afterwards—provided you're seeing someone who genuinely understands facial anatomy and injection depth. In fact, Sculptra is one of the safest and most robustly researched biostimulators available today, having originally been developed over 25 years ago for medical use and put through rigorous safety protocols.

Threads, however, are a different story. Where Sculptra's reputation has outlived its risk, Soni is unequivocal that threads haven't—he never recommends them, calling the scarring risk, from both the depth they're typically placed at and the way they interact with tissue, too consistent a downside for someone planning future surgery.

Other biostimulators like hydrating Profhilo, regenerative exosomes and polynucleotides are not "a concern," reveals Mallucci, as they're designed to improve skin quality, boost hydration, and stimulate collagen at a superficial level. The same goes for devices like ultrasound-powered Sofwave and Morpheus8, which combines microneedling with radiofrequency to tighten and contour skin.

One category we should be more wary of, says Mallucci, is "deep-acting energy devices" such as J-Plasma and FaceTite, which work at a level that can scar you in the same planes a surgeon later needs. Soni makes a related point about radio frequency microneedling specifically: the risk isn't really the device category, it's whether the person holding it understands anatomy. "You need to make sure that you're with a provider who understands it," he says—the same caveat, really, that applies to all non-surgical cosmetic procedures.

What about dermal filler?

Though dermal filler has arguably been knocked off the top spot with the rise of biostimulators and fat transfers, many aesthetic doctors still believe it has an important role to play when it comes to lifting, and contouring the face—especially in the years leading up to a facelift. "However, large volumes of filler can sometimes mask the true extent of age-related volume loss or tissue descent, making assessment more challenging," explains De Luca. "They’re not a contraindication to surgery, but it’s important that patients disclose their filler history during the consultation so the surgeon can plan accordingly."

And you might not even have to dissolve your filler pre-surgery, “In some cases it might be an advantage to dissolve the filler before the facelift. In other cases, it’s not necessarily required. It depends on where it’s been put and how long ago,” adds Mallucci.

Find one doctor, not five

If there's one piece of advice that cuts across all of this, it's not about which treatment to avoid—it's about who's administering it. Soni is candid that patients hopping between providers make surgical planning harder, simply because no one has the full picture. "People need to have a long-term game plan with a doctor, with whom they're in a long-term patient relationship," he says, pointing out that skin quality and anatomy shift over time regardless of what you have or haven't had done.

His advice for anyone choosing a provider: do your homework and research them in depth. Check before-and-afters, ask about training and experience with facial anatomy, read reviews, and confirm their registration with the various governing bodies like the General Medical Council, or the Nursing & Midwifery Council. The BCAM Pre-Consultation Safety Questionnaire is a handy six-step checklist designed to help you choose safely. It covers practitioner qualifications, insurance, premises standards and product sourcing, and can be printed or sent to a clinic ahead of time.

When to stop tweaking

Whether you choose to get a facelift in your 40s, 50s, 60s or 70s, the healthier your skin is, the better—if we ensure our skin is well-hydrated, collagen-rich and resilient it will make a meaningful difference to both our results and recovery.

What we must do is be totally transparent with our future surgeons and go for our first consult at good amount of time before our ideal surgery date. “As a rule of thumb, stopping treatments at least six months before surgery, and ideally up to a year in some cases, allows for better assessment and surgical planning. Patients also need to disclose all previous aesthetic treatments, as well as any previous facial surgery or trauma. This information can significantly influence surgical planning and helps avoid unexpected findings during surgery,” says De Luca.

I’m planning to create a digital diary of all the treatments I’ve already had (everything from injectables to lasers), and log all my future treatments too, so by the time I have my first consultation with a surgeon I’ll be armed with all the info they need. Let the countdown begin...

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

I'm always on the lookout for new facial treatments – particularly those that work to actively contour the face rather than target skin quality. As someone who's recovering from hormonal acne, I'm pretty picky about who touches my face for the latter. But a sculpting facial massage appointment? Sign me up.

This is why when I first heard about fascia facials, I knew they were calling my name. Listen, I love my gua sha and facial rollers so much (and use them every day) but I'm always keen to try something that delivers more dramatic, instant results. Here's what I learned from giving the treatment a go first-hand.

What is the fascia?

Fascia is the connective, supportive tissue that wraps around your muscles, bones, organs and nerves. It also supports structures such as blood vessels and fat compartments. It's present all over your body, but in your face, there are a couple of specific 'systems' that are worth knowing. "The key fascial layer often discussed is the SMAS, the superficial musculoaponeurotic system, which is important in facial structure and ageing," explains Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Sidra Khan.

With this in mind, it makes sense that without giving your fascia attention, you may see signs of puffiness, tension and less definition. It's important to note, of course, that the fascia alone is not responsible for the appearance of your skin and face by any means, but it can be a contributing factor. Stress and tension kept in the jaw, shoulders and neck can contribute to fascia becoming stiff and therefore less smooth, flexible and healthy overall.

What is a fascia facial?

My experience of a fascia facial was pretty typical: this is not a relaxing treatment, but a pretty vigorous facial massage that aims to contour the face, reduce puffiness and aid in lymphatic drainage.

The fascia has long been a focus of Korean contouring facials, so I went to try one out at Pure Glam Beauty. Of their 'Korean Signature Contour,' they explained: "Fascia work is a key part of the treatment. We use targeted techniques to release tension, improve circulation and encourage lymphatic drainage. The goal is to reduce puffiness, enhance facial definition and create a naturally sculpted appearance. Unlike traditional facials that focus mainly on the skin, this treatment works with the deeper facial structures that influence facial shape and contour."

The facial combines stretching motions and firm massage with the fingers, down the neck, shoulders and across the face. My facialist used lifting movements and pressure point work, and did a round of dry massage (with gloves) and one with oil for better slip. It was noticeably different from a 'regular' facial as it's much more focused on facial structure and tension rather than skin quality.

A typical fascia-focused facial will begin with a double cleanse, then move into a series of facial massages (either with or without product and gloves), followed by face masks, moisturiser and mist.

It wasn't the most comfortable treatment I've ever had (particularly at the bit around my neck, which was very sore because my muscles there are tight), but I definitely saw an instant lift post-treatment. When looking at my before and after pictures, you can see a subtle contoured effect particularly along my jawline and cheekbones.

Who would benefit from a fascia facial?

If, like me, you've been experiencing water retention and puffiness around your face, a fascia-focused facial can definitely be a great choice. This is a treatment to try if you want to contour and define the face, rather than enhance skin quality or concentrate on specific concerns such as acne or eczema.

My facialist actually told me that the ideal number of facials to aim for is about 20 a year, if you want long-lasting structural change. For most of us this may not be achievable, but it can be a great one-off treatment for temporary lift and definition. If you have a wedding, party or other special occasion, for example, booking in a week prior for one of these can make a huge difference. As you can experience a little puffiness and soreness the days following an appointment, it's best not to leave it any closer to the date.

Can you do a fascia facial from home?

In theory, yes, but I'd argue this may be better suited to the professionals as we're dealing with the deeper structure of the skin rather than the superficial layers. That said, if you're willing to learn more about the practise and put it to the test, you can benefit from at-home facial massage techniques that aim to improve the fascia.

This is best done with fingers (although if you want to simply try facial massage, a gua sha or roller can make it easy). I'd suggest following a step-by-step tutorial like the ones by @anastasiabeautyfascia: a skin expert who's built her following by focusing on the all-important fascia. Anastasia is proof that long-term attention to the fascia can literally change the shape and structure of the face.

I loved having this treatment and would definitely go back for more, but I'm not sure I personally have the willpower (!!) to perform it on myself regularly. For that, I'll be sticking to my handy gua sha which subtly improves puffiness over time. A professional fascia facial will instead become my special treat.

Few products have found continued virality quite like La Roche Posay's Cicaplast. But as someone with a history of severe acne, I've always shied away from more occlusive products for fear of provoking blemishes. After putting Cicaplast Baume SPF 50 to the test, I realise just what I've been missing out on with this product.

Touted as a nourishing balm that soothes and protects irritated skin and even minor injuries, the original Cicaplast balm can be used for everything from moisturising to helping to reduce sebaceous filaments on the nose. The SPF 50 version offers all this, with the added benefit of sun protection too.

Other heroes from the Cicaplast range been staples in my daily routine for years, so it's no surprise that this is now joining their ranks. After a week of testing, these are my honest thoughts on Cicaplast Baume SPF 50—and exactly why it's joined the ranks of my long-standing sunscreen favourites for dry areas.

Cicaplast Baume SPF 50: My review

I've long been aware of the original Cicaplast and its benefits, particularly for healing ultra-dry and damaged skin. However, it never really felt like something I needed. I'm more on the oily side, and my aforementioned fear of clogging my pores and inviting acne into my life was enough to put me off. But after discovering the SPF 50 formula, I was suitably intrigued.

My number one question was how this product could possibly function as a sunscreen. I was under the assumption that it was extremely thick and not all that easy to rub in, so the thought of applying it over my face? A no-go. But after swatching on my hand, I realised just how easily the formula sinks in and dries down.

Although it's designed to be applied on specific problem areas rather than all over, I wanted to see if it would work across my face. The swatch made me confident enough to apply it in a thin layer, to see exactly how it would fare throughout the day and whether it would agree with my skin.

I'm pleased to report, I was extremely pleasantly surprised. It smoothed over my skin nicely and sank in much quicker than I was expecting. I was prepared for a greasy, shiny finish due to the creamy formula, but it didn't take long to settle and leave a skin-like texture.

I used slightly more around my nose and on dry patches, and it did a brilliant job at soothing those areas and helping with the texture that appears.

It also sat comfortably on my face all day with noticeable hydration. However, owing to the fact that it isn't intended as a full facial SPF, I did find that it caused some pilling with makeup towards the end of the day.

Moving forward, I combined it with my regular SPF—applying a base of my everyday sunscreen and topping it up with Cicaplast SPF 50 around my nose and on any dry, itchy patches that cropped up. This method is definitely the key to success. It allowed me to fully protect my skin from UV rays whilst tackling dry patches and texture where needed.

Who should use Cicaplast Baume SPF 50?

Now, it's important to note that Cicaplast Baume SPF 50 is not designed to be an all-over suncream that you'll wear every day—unless you have very damaged or fragile skin. Rather, it's a soothing treatment that can be applied to problem areas and irritations to help to soothe, heal, and protect from the sun.

It does a brilliant job at protecting and nourishing difficult areas of the skin without compromising on SPF protection. It instantly calms the skin once it's applied, making it a very welcome balm to have on hand for any issues that may crop up.

My favourite way to apply it has been around my nose where I get very dry, and on places like my shoulders, elbows, and knees where I'm prone to dryness or suffer with some peeling after being in the sun. It can also be used to nourish tattoos and protect them from the sun, or on grazes that are healing.

But, if you are someone who feels as though you could benefit from using it across your face, I can confirm that it's fit for purpose—and will relieve discomfort whilst keeping UV at bay.

I've spent well over a decade working as a beauty editor, and a significant portion of that time as a willing human pin-cushion in the name of research. I've been injected, lasered, resurfaced, and sculpted by practitioners across the country, which has also given me a finely tuned radar for identifying the truly exceptional. I'm talking about the ones who are medically rigorous, artistically restrained, and utterly incapable of over-treating someone. The names below are the ones I would send my closest friends to (and have done many times), without hesitation.

But first, a note on safety: with aesthetics injectables now more accessible than ever, choosing a qualified practitioner matters more than ever, too. Always ensure your injector is a registered medical professional—a doctor, dentist, or nurse prescriber—and check their credentials via the GMC, NMC, or GDC registers. The Save Face accreditation scheme is also a useful starting point for vetting clinics.

Now, a peek inside my Black Book...

Taktouk Clinic

• Where: Knightsbridge; The Chancery Rosewood, Mayfair, London
• Who: Dr Wassim Taktouk and Dr Christine Hall
• Known for: Advanced injectables, K-beauty-informed skin treatments, laser dermatology, ethical and safety-first ethos

Winner of Aesthetic Clinic of the Year in both 2023 and 2024, Taktouk Clinic has earned its reputation through substance rather than hype. Dr Wassim—who trained in A&E before spending a decade in emergency medicine—brings a clinical precision that shows in every result; he won't treat you if he doesn't think you need it. Everything he does accentuates in an artistic and perfectly proportioned way, so that the result reads as good genes rather than good injectables.

Dr Christine Hall is the clinic's K-beauty specialist: a GMC-registered GP with South Korean heritage and a deep knowledge of the skincare ingredients and techniques that have made Seoul the world capital of skin. She's inarguably responsible for some of the best glass-skin results in London. To have both of these experts in one setting puts this clinic right at the top of my list.

Prager Clinic

• Where: Beauchamp Place, Chelsea
• Who: Dr Michael Prager
• Known for: Whole-face rejuvenation, non-surgical approaches, long-term patient relationships

One of Europe's most consistently cited aesthetic physicians, Dr Prager has been practising for over 20 years—and has been my go-to doctor for Botox for six of those years (I don't think anyone does it better than him). He treats the face as a whole rather than chasing individual concerns, which is exactly the kind of thinking that separates the great from the merely competent. The result is a face that looks holistically rested and refreshed, not frozen and filled in specific spots.

The Aesthetics Doctor

• Where: Mayfair, London; Leeds; Cheshire
• Who: Dr Ahmed El Muntasar
• Known for: Medically led aesthetics, Sculptra, advanced injectables and laser treatments

Dr Ahmed has the credentials that would make most practitioners feel slightly inadequate. He was the youngest-ever medical student admitted to St Andrews, NHS GP, MSc in Medical Leadership from UCL, over 10,000 procedures performed (and he's a judge at the Marie Claire Skin Awards). His Sculptra work, in particular, is worth a mention—Sculptra is currently the most sought-after biostimulator in aesthetics (it stimulates your own collagen rather than simply filling, which means results build gradually and last up to two years), and Dr Ahmed administers it with the same precision and restraint that defines everything else he does.

His Mayfair clinic was named Best New Clinic at the Safety in Beauty Awards 2025, and patients travel from the Middle East and beyond for his work. Plus, he's genuinely one of the nicest, warmest practitioners I've ever had the pleasure of being treated by.

Dr Sophie Shotter

• Where: 10 Harley Street, London
• Who: Dr Sophie Shotter
• Known for: Natural injectables, polynucleotides, holistic anti-ageing, energy-based devices

Dr Shotter's philosophy is that the best work should be invisible, meaning you'll leave looking like yourself, just significantly more rested and with a coveted glow. A board member of the British College of Aesthetic Medicine and Aesthetic Medical Practitioner of the Year 2023, she's as rigorous about safety as she is about results. Her inside-out approach, combining injectables with skincare, supplements, and hormone health where relevant, is what sets her apart from the crowd.

The Soni Clinic

• Where: Ascot, Berkshire; The Langham, London
• Who: Dr Ash Soni
• Known for: Surgical and non-surgical expertise, polynucleotides, Sculptra, precision injectables

Dr Ash Soni is, technically, a plastic and reconstructive surgeon—trained at Imperial College, Cornell's New York Presbyterian, Johns Hopkins, and The Royal Marsden. Which is to say: he's operating at a level most aesthetic doctors could only dream of. He literally brings surgical-level anatomical knowledge to non-surgical treatments. Plus, his aesthetic eye is renowned for being exceptional, and his clinic's London residency at The Langham is beautiful. He has also published more than 40 peer-reviewed papers, which tells you everything about how seriously he takes the science.

Dr Glyn Medispa

• Where: Chester; Fitzrovia, London
• Who: Dr Glyn Estebanez
• Known for: Facial harmonisation, bespoke injectables, a surgical eye applied to non-surgical results

Another trained surgeon and member of the Royal College of Surgeons, Dr Glyn's move into aesthetic means he approaches the face with a structural understanding most injectors simply don't have. His signature offering, facial harmonisation, is exactly what it sounds like: a whole-face approach that prioritises balance and proportion over isolated quick fixes. He has been accepted into the Mauricio de Maio global mentoring programme, which is effectively the gold standard in aesthetic education, and his work across Chester and Fitzrovia has earned him a devoted following. If you're nervous, he's also notably good at putting first-timers at ease.

A precious few things are touted as a cure-all for hormonal acne, but spironolactone—a prescription-based medication—has been doing the rounds on social media for exactly that reason. But can anything really be a cure-all for something as complex as acne, and who exactly is it right for?

Originally developed to treat conditions such as high blood pressure and heart failure, spironolactone is now frequently prescribed by consultant dermatologists, like Dr Zainab Laftah, for hormonal acne and female pattern hair loss due to its anti-androgen effects.

“It’s most commonly prescribed for women with signs of androgen-driven conditions,” Dr Laftah explains. “This includes hormonal acne, particularly acne affecting the lower face and jawline, excessive hair growth (hirsutism), and female pattern hair loss. By blocking the effects of androgens, spironolactone helps reduce oil production, slow hair follicle miniaturisation, and improve unwanted hair growth.” She adds that it isn't routinely prescribed to men because of those same anti-androgen effects, which can lead to side effects including breast enlargement, reduced libido and sexual dysfunction.

It's gone viral online for a reason; it really does work. Partnerships Manager Molly Jappy, 27, tried everything to treat her hormonal acne, which was caused by Polycystic Ovary Syndrome (PCOS). “I spent 10 years trying every treatment and ointment, including Accutane, antibiotics, topical treatments, supplements and endless skincare products to no avail,” she tells Marie Claire UK. “I felt hopeless until I discovered spironolactone. I’ve had clear skin ever since. My confidence has just soared.”

Similarly, journalist and beauty expert Kristina Rodulfo found that her nodular, cystic acne wasn't responding to over-the-counter skincare. She eventually discovered spironolactone, which she took on and off over the next eight years. “Results typically show at the three-month mark and the difference was dramatic. I went from having anywhere from 15-20 painful, red cysts all across my jawline to having smooth, clear skin. Similar to the way people describe GLP-1 treatments as erasing "food noise", spironolactone erased the mental load of acne. I was no longer stressing and monitoring my diet for triggers, or combing over every single ingredient in my skincare and make-up.”

Kristina has since gone off the medication, however—citing side-effects from the anti-androgen properties that make it so effective. In combination with her contraceptive IUD, she found that spironolactone made her menstrual cycle irregular and, at times, caused it to disappear altogether. "Before planning for a family, I wanted to come off it and get my body's reproductive health and hormones back to baseline," she says. "But I do think I'll go back on it eventually because it was the most effective acne treatment I've ever tried."

While Consultant Dermatologist and Renew + Me ambassador, Dr Malvina Cunningham states that many people tolerate spironolactone well, she notes that Rodulfo's experience is not uncommon. “It’s not a one-size-fits-all, despite what social media is saying. Acne is a complex condition, and what works well for one person may not be suitable or effective for another.”

The most common side effects include increased urination (the medication is a diuretic), as well as breast tenderness, menstrual irregularities, headaches, dizziness and fatigue. However, there are also more serious side effects to consider.

Dr Christine Hall, a GP and aesthetic doctor who has taken spironolactone herself, stresses that the medication should only be used under appropriate medical supervision. "I have seen many hospital admissions, particularly in older people, where the cause has been this drug," she states. “In many cases, it is good practice to carry out blood tests before and during treatment. One of the key concerns with spironolactone is that it can affect and elevate blood potassium levels. Elevated potassium levels, known as hyperkalemia, must be monitored carefully because, if left unchecked, they can lead to serious complications, including abnormal heart rhythms and, in severe cases, death.”

Accordingly, it is generally not prescribed to people with certain underlying health conditions, including kidney disease, where the risk of elevated potassium levels is higher, or those with very low blood pressure. It is also not recommended during pregnancy, breastfeeding or while trying to conceive.

Interestingly, another less common side-effect that has been widely discussed on social media is breast enlargement. “It can happen because spironolactone’s anti-androgen effects alter the balance between androgens and oestrogen,” explains Dr Laftah. “In women, this may lead to a feeling of fullness or a modest increase in breast size, although this is not a universal side effect and is typically mild.” She adds that, in most cases, any breast enlargement associated with spironolactone improves or resolves once the medication is discontinued.

Out of the nine women I spoke to for this feature, only two reported mild side effects, including increased urination and occasional light-headedness. What may prove more prohibitive, however, is accessing the treatment itself.

Spironolactone is prescribed off-label for acne and is typically recommended by a dermatologist following an assessment. While it can be prescribed through the NHS, many people access it privately. All but one of the women I spoke to had received their prescription through a private dermatologist. The exception was Molly, who was eventually able to access it on the NHS following a PCOS diagnosis. Several cited NHS waiting times and administrative hurdles as reasons for going private.

"The biggest issue was actually getting hold of it," says 29-year-old writer Amber Rawlings. "There's so much red tape. I didn't even try going through the NHS because I'd heard it could take months, so I went straight to a private dermatologist. It was extremely expensive.”

While spironolactone itself is relatively inexpensive, the overall cost is driven by consultations, blood monitoring and follow-up appointments. Typically, an initial dermatology consultation can range from £200 to £350, while subsequent appointments may cost £100 to £250, depending on the clinic.

It was worth it for Amber, though: “I went from having skin that I was constantly fixating on to skin that I didn't have to think about at all. And honestly, that changes your whole existence. If you’re a suitable candidate for it, I’d recommend it in a heartbeat.”

But, of course, spironolactone is not the only solution for hormonal acne. As Dr Hall asserts, before even considering it, individuals should see a dermatologist and get an accurate diagnosis of the type of acne they have. “That’s really the key to finding the right treatment," she says. "In general, we like to start with the least invasive approach first. That means making sure someone is using the right over-the-counter skincare products and that their routine has been properly optimised. If that's not enough, we would usually consider adding topical prescription treatments. Oral medications are typically reserved for situations where they are genuinely needed.”

Summer is upon us, and with it comes a familiar beauty dilemma: how do you top up your SPF without ruining your make-up?

We all know how important it is to use sunscreen, but during high summer, it's regular re-application that is key. Of course, SPF has long had a bad reputation for being greasy, leaving a white cast and being a pain to use over make-up, but I come bearing good news: this is no longer the case. A slew of new formulas have made both application and re-application a doddle. Often infused with skin-loving ingredients, these next-gen products work effortlessly over make-up and can even double as setting sprays. So, without further ado, the best SPF mists on the market.

Best weightless SPF mists

Dealing with spots recurring in the same place, time and time again? Well, it may have something to do with a common vitamin deficiency, alongside the usual suspects.

"Deep cystic and and nodular spots sit further beneath the skin than most people realise," says Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Ellie Rashid, giving the context that oftentimes, the breakout was never "gone" in the first place. "The pore is a complex structure that extends deep into the skin. When a spot is squeezed, you might empty the surface, but the inflammation, oil and debris remain. The same pore then becomes inflamed a few weeks later."

But interestingly, studies have also linked this phenomenon to a very prevalent vitamin D deficiency—which around 49.5 per cent of UK adults have.

While scientists haven't established that this deficiency directly causes acne, research has found that people with acne are more likely to have low vitamin D levels, and that the severity of their symptoms may correlate with with this deficiency. One particular study suggested that if these patients supplemented with vitamin D they may see improvement in inflammation and thus their breakouts.

Fellow Consultant Derm, Dr Aiza Jamil notes that deficiencies in vitamin D may contribute to a more inflammatory skin environment: "Certain vitamin deficiencies may cause spots through a lowered immune system that may contribute to a more inflammatory skin environment, like Vitamin D," she explains. "They can also cause poor sleep, stress or can cause overall worse health, which can lead to more spots and inflammation."

However, Dr Rashid again stresses that vitamin D deficiencies do not cause acne. "Correcting a low vitamin D level is rarely the thing that clears up someone’s skin. If you’re getting recurring spots in the same area, it’s much more likely to be related to local pore activity, hormones and inflammation than a vitamin deficiency."

As ever, both experts suggest a holistic attitude to skin health, which, yes, involves ensuring that you're eating a well-rounded diet and ensuring that you're supplementing with vitamins when needed.

What else can cause recurring spots?

Dr Jamil explains that the pore behind the recurring spot may just be more liable to blockage and inflammation. "Some are known as “sticky” pores where follicles are anatomically more likely to trap dead skin cells and oil. And other pores are also particularly responsive to androgens, which are hormones that stimulate oil production. This can cause excess oil and blockages. A deep acne cyst may never completely resolve and can repeatedly flare."

In addition, certain lifestyle choices can cause irritation and inflammation in the same areas, such as glasses, phones, masks, touching your face and skin picking—this is referred to as acne mechanica.

"There's also pomade acne, which is caused by hair oils, waxes, pomades and styling products transferring onto the skin. I often see this around the temples, forehead and hairline," adds Dr Rashid.

How do you stop spots from recurring

The first step is stopping the squeezing, advise both dermatologists. "Squeezing increases inflammation, spreads baceria, leaves behind residual blockage and significantly increases the risk of scarring," elaborates Dr Rashid.

"Easy changes include avoiding touching the skin with your hands or with anything that could hold bacteria, such as your phone," adds Dr Jamil. "Certain hair products or cosmetics can cause irritation and flares, so make a note of any time you use a product that may cause irritation, and ensure your products you are using on your face, such as makeup brushes, are cleaned often."

Best products to treat recurring spots

Perhaps the most frustrating thing about breakouts is not knowing why they're happening. They can be caused by myriad reasons—stress, diet, sleep, travel, hormonal issues, and, of course, overdoing it with incompatible skincare.

As a Beauty Editor, I've always taken a clinical approach to my skin; I speak to dermatologists, I know what works for me, and I do as much as humanly possible to contend with stressors. So I was stumped by a recent bout of acne, which I figured couldn't have been caused by any of the above.

Cut to me being incredibly intrigued when celebrity aesthetician Shane Cooper wouldn't let me leave a facial without misting down my face and glasses with a skincare ingredient he swears by—the naturally antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory hypochlorous acid.

Once solely used for wound care, this ultra-gentle acid (which has the same pH as skin) can be used multiple times daily. It's naturally found in the body's white blood cells, where it combats foreign bodies, bacteria and viruses, promoting healing while easing redness, itchiness, acne, irritation and even eczema symptoms.

"I'm really happy people are starting to ask about it," replied Cooper after I enquired after my treatment. "It's naturally antifungal and antibacterial, but without any of the harshness you'd get from alcohol-based products. That's the key difference. So many sanitising sprays strip the skin barrier, which is the last thing you want, especially if you're already dealing with sensitivity or breakouts. Hypochlorous acid doesn't do that. It works with the skin rather than against it."

As Cooper reiterates, it's something the body produces naturally as part of its own immune response, so you're very unlikely to have a reaction. "It's also non-cytotoxic," he adds. "Meaning it targets the bad bacteria without disrupting your healthy skin cells or your microbiome. For anyone who's acne-prone or prone to congestion, that's really significant, because you're not creating more imbalance in the process of trying to fix a problem."

It made sense: a lot of my breakouts were occurring where my glasses and sunglasses touched my face, and during the recent heatwave we experienced in London, everything had become a lot, well, sweatier—so there was more of the bacteria that causes acne.

Safe to say I was sold. Though there are now a number of hypochlorous acid sprays on the market, I initially purchased Cooper's favourite, Puro Mist, which I proceeded to use everywhere: in the morning, after a workout, and before bed. Within days, I noticed that the breakouts had diminished.

I realised just how often I was putting my skin in contact with something unsanitary. We touch our faces all the time, and a handy bottle of this put a stop to that and my mind at rest, especially when I was travelling.

Still, it's something that will remain in my routine, acne or not. As the facialist continues, it's brilliant for inflammation generally: "I use it for clients whose skin is reactive, post-treatment, or just generally irritated, because it soothes and calms at the same time as it cleans. That dual action is quite rare, and it doesn't affect the skin's pH, which matters enormously for barrier health. There's no risk of overdoing it the way you might with actives or stronger treatments. It genuinely keeps the skin clean, calm, and a little bit hydrated without any interference."

In the months since this genuinely quite life-changing discovery, I've made it my mission to try the gamut of hypochlorous acid sprays on the market. Ahead are my vetted favourites.

After moving into a new flat, I found myself waking up most days with a dull, puffy, swollen face, redness, oilier-than-usual skin, and new spots to contend with. At first, I assumed I was run down from the move, but after a couple of weeks I noticed that dust would accumulate really quickly after I’d clean. As someone with pretty sensitive skin and a history of unexplainable allergic reactions, I wondered if the air I was breathing in every night was doing me more harm than good.

After a little sleuthing, I discovered that the issues with my skin and the endless dust could well be related. And that indoor air quality (and not just outdoor air quality) can have just as much, if not more, impact on the skin, driving everything from acne and hyperpigmentation to accelerated ageing.

Turns out my puffy face was likely caused by histamine production, a chemical the immune system releases when it detects a threat like dust-mite allergens. It causes blood vessels to dilate and fluid to accumulate in surrounding tissue, which is why I was waking up looking like I'd been out all night, even after getting a solid eight hours of sleep. The excess oil was my skin barrier's attempt to protect itself, and the dullness was low-grade inflammation at work.

What’s in the air we breathe?

I think it’s fair to say that most of us think of pollution as an outside issue, something we encounter in big cities, in and around busy roads, and not an issue we have to contend with in our homes. But “there’s lots of evidence now that air pollution levels can sometimes be higher indoors compared to outdoors,” says Dr Heather Price, Associate Professor in Environmental Geography at The University of Stirling, and UKRI Regional Clean Air Champion for Scotland. “Partly this is because air pollution can get indoors from outside through windows and doors. However, there are also lots of sources of air pollution inside our homes, including building materials, furnishings, cooking, heating, smoking, cleaning products and personal care products,” she adds.

So, while we thought we were mainly breathing in nitrogen and oxygen, it turns out the full list of what we’re breathing in is not so good for us. “It’s a complex mixture that includes nitrogen dioxide, which comes mainly from vehicles, sulphur dioxide from burning fuels like coal and oil, volatile organic compounds from household products, building materials and furnishings, and particulate matter—tiny particles from car exhaust, wood fires and factories,” explains Price. Light a candle, use a spray deodorant, renovate a room with standard paint, heat your home with a wood-burning stove: all of these contribute to your indoor pollution load, and that can take its toll on your skin.

Air pollution's impact on the skin

“Air pollution triggers oxidative stress in the skin, weakening the barrier and accelerating visible ageing such as fine lines, uneven tone and pigmentation,” says Ken Armstrong, Air Quality Research Director at Dyson. Oxidative stress occurs when free radicals, aka unstable molecules generated by pollution exposure, outnumber the skin’s antioxidants and wreak havoc by causing cellular damage. The skin barrier is particularly vulnerable. “Pollution breaks down essential lipids, increasing water loss and weakening the skin’s protective function. This makes skin more prone to dryness, irritation, and environmental damage,” adds Armstrong.

And the more pollutants we’re exposed to, the more skin complaints we’re going to have. “Key aggressors include particulate matter, (ground-level) ozone, VOCs and allergens like dust and pollen, which can trigger inflammation. Each contributes differently, but all can impact skin health,” says Armstrong.

For those of us who haven’t been in a science classroom in a while, particulate matter is a mixture of tiny solid matter and liquid particles made up of things like soot, dust, pollen, and mould spores. Anything smaller than 2.5 micrometres can penetrate deep into pores, triggering localised inflammation and congestion.

Ground-level ozone is a gas that forms when vehicle exhaust and industrial emissions react with sunlight. This one is particularly damaging to the skin, as it depletes its natural antioxidant reserves, specifically vitamins E and C, leaving it increasingly vulnerable to the oxidative damage Armstrong described above, which accelerates ageing.

Finally, volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, are chemicals that evaporate into the air at room temperature. They're emitted by a wide range of everyday products found in our homes like building materials, paint, cleaning products, air fresheners, candles, new furniture and flooring. According to the experts, some are harmless, and others are harmful with prolonged exposure. And in the case of my new flat, it’s likely they were at an all-time high, thanks to the fresh coat of paint it got, and all my new furnishings off-gassing all at the same time.

Armstrong notes that it doesn’t take long for your skin to be affected by these pollutants. “Some effects like dryness and irritation can appear within days of exposure. Longer-term exposure leads to cumulative damage such as pigmentation and fine lines. And while it’s often those with sensitive, dry and acne-prone skin that tend to react most visibly, no skin type is immune.”

Are air purifiers the answer?

Once I realised dust could be one of the main reasons why my skin had lost the plot, I resolved to hoover and dust the place, especially my bedroom, every other day. But that became a literal chore, and I really resented having to clean so often. That’s when I wondered if an air purifier could help.

“Air purifiers draw air through filters designed to trap some of the key pollutants. HEPA filters are designed to remove over 99 per cent of particles of 0.3µm size and activated carbon filters can help to remove volatile organic compounds and odours,” says Dr Price. How well they work depends on the brand, the flow rate, the size of the room and where you place them, but according to Armstrong, “research shows cleaner air reduces exposure to particles that drive inflammation and oxidative stress, which supports overall skin health.”

He also advises on investing in one that has a fully sealed system design, as these ensure pollutants aren’t released back into the air. “And place your purifier in the bedroom as sleep affects your skin more than you think, and reducing airborne irritants like dust and pollen can support uninterrupted, restorative sleep and healthier-looking skin,” he adds.

Putting an air purifier to the test

If I could I would have put an air purifier in every room of my flat, but since I haven’t won the lottery, I chose to place my Dyson Big+Quiet Formaldehyde BP04 Purifying Fan, £899.99, in my living room during the day while I work from home, and then a few hours before bed I’d move it to the bedroom to give it enough time to cycle and clean the air multiple times before bed. What I found really helpful about that approach was that the Dyson app shows you real-time air quality readings, so I could actually see when the levels had dropped to a good level before going to bed.

I was amazed by how quickly I felt a difference, not only in how my skin looked and behaved, but also in how I felt. Yes, after speaking to the experts I understood the science of ‘bad’ air, but I didn’t think I’d sleep better too. “Allergens and particulate matter trigger low-grade inflammatory responses and histamine release even during sleep, keeping the body in a mild state of alert rather than in full restoration mode. Cleaner air reduces the overnight inflammatory load, allowing the body to move through sleep stages more efficiently and spend more time in deep sleep. The result is both better rest and a more productive repair window for the skin,” explains Armstrong.

Turns out, despite getting the same amount of sleep as before, I was now getting better-quality sleep. Add that to the fact that my skin was being assaulted by less air pollution, it didn’t take long for my acne to settle, my skin to stop overproducing oil at night and for me to wake up looking a lot less puffy each morning.

What you can do beyond the purifier

After putting one to the test, owning an air purifier is a must for me, but Price believes, “Air purifiers are more of an added extra in terms of ways to improve indoor air quality. It’s much more effective to stop doing the things that are adding pollutants into your home, rather than trying to remove them once they are there.” Her practical advice: avoid lighting candles, burning incense and using air fresheners. Buy low-VOC paint next time you give your place a makeover, and opt for non-spray versions of cleaning products and beauty products where possible.

Speaking of beauty buys, antioxidants are your best defence against pollution-induced skin cell damage. What we eat helps up our stores, but applying them topically works a treat too. Vitamin C in the morning before your SPF is the most evidence-backed option. While niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier and has anti-inflammatory properties, making it useful for skin dealing with chronic pollution exposure. A good barrier-supporting moisturiser with ceramides and fatty acids helps maintain the lipid layer that pollution actively degrades. And double cleansing in the evening is worth taking seriously. Following this routine and using an air purifier daily has worked for me.

But “the levels of air pollution we are exposed to depend on factors like where we live, where we work, how we travel, how we cook our food, how we heat our homes and more. This means we all experience different levels of exposure to air pollution and therefore different impacts,” shares Price. A purifier in your house can’t protect your skin when you’re out and about, but using one at night is a meaningful intervention in the hours your skin has to repair itself, and that’s something.

As a melanated girlie, I’ve always been conscious of hyperpigmentation—when patches of skin appear darker than the surrounding area. I’ve spent most of my life trying to avoid it—think sun protection, acne control, preventative skincare and steering clear of aesthetic treatments that could trigger it. On the occasions it did rear its head, I was armed and ready with a host of devices and actives to even out my skin tone.

What I wasn’t prepared for, and knew very little about, was hypopigmentation. So, when it happened to me, I was flummoxed about how it had happened and what exactly the correct course of action was to treat it.

Hypopigmentation decoded

“Hypopigmentation is a reduction in the skin’s natural pigment, melanin, resulting in patches that appear lighter than the baseline skin tone, but it still retains some melanin activity. It’s often confused with vitiligo, but the two are distinct. Vitiligo is a chronic and complex autoimmune condition that involves the complete loss of melanin-producing cells,” explains aesthetic practitioner and Ace Skin Health Clinic founder, Corina Mihalache.

Around two years ago, I developed a circle of skin on my calf that looks completely devoid of pigment, while a bite that turned into a blister, and a laser hair removal mishap that burnt my skin also left me with light patches that stand out like a lighthouse amongst my darker skin.

Pigment-producing cells, called melanocytes, located in the top layer of the skin can’t function as they should when inflammation, trauma or excessive stress comes their way. “These melanocytes may remain present but no longer produce enough melanin, or they fail to transfer pigment efficiently to surrounding cells, and more severe damage can result in partial or complete destruction of the melanocytes,” says Mihalachi.

Inflammation is one of the most significant triggers; think conditions like eczema, acne, psoriasis, burns and aggressive aesthetic procedures can all trigger inflammation and disrupt normal melanocyte activity. In small doses, inflammation promotes healing—the body releases inflammatory mediators, aka the chemical messengers like histamines, cytokines, prostaglandins and leukotrienes that are all essential for healing. The issue is that when inflammation becomes chronic—and we may be fuelling it with our collective obsession with achieving ‘perfect’ skin.

“I have also noticed an increase in pigment disruption caused by over-treated skin, linked to the overuse of active skincare ingredients, particularly in patients who have unintentionally damaged their skin barrier through excessive exfoliation, strong acids, or prescription products used without professional guidance,” says Mihalachi. And it’s not just at-home skincare that could be to blame.

Some aesthetic treatments carry significant risk too. “Cryotherapy, aggressive lasers, deep chemical peels and improperly used energy devices can all suppress or permanently damage melanocytes,” reveals Mihalachi.

Hypopigmentation in darker skin tones

Just as hyperpigmentation is more of a concern for melanin-rich skin due to our more active pigment-producing cells, which are more reactive to any form of inflammation, trauma or sun exposure. Hypopigmentation can also be more concerning. Not only are we more prone to the condition thanks to our overachieving pigment-producing cells, but because when skin is darker, a loss of pigment is also significantly more visible than it would be on our lighter-skinned counterparts.

To avoid this fate, Mihalache urges patients and practitioners to err on the side of caution when it comes to skincare and treatments. Ditch overly aggressive actives, use conservative settings during treatments and follow an intensive healing aftercare protocol.

How to treat hypopigmentation

Whatever your skin tone, the fundamentals of treating hypopigmentation remain the same. “It can still be challenging, but our understanding has improved considerably over recent years. Earlier intervention, better recognition of inflammatory triggers and more targeted therapies are helping to improve outcomes for many patients,” shares Teresa O’Nwere-Tan, Advanced Nurse Practitioner & Founder of Tan&Co

For post-inflammatory hypopigmentation, treatment focuses on calming inflammation, restoring the skin barrier and encouraging melanocyte recovery. “Depending on the individual case, this may include topical anti-inflammatory medications, carefully selected light-based therapies and anti-inflammatory and barrier supportive skincare,” says O’Nwere-Tan.

Light therapy, specifically controlled medical phototherapy, is one of the most exciting treatment options for hypopigmentation, as it's highly effective at stimulating melanin production. LED is a great supportive light treatment that helps reduce inflammation, supports healing, and strengthens the skin barrier.

“Gentle microneedling with the likes of exosomes, peptides, polynucleotides, can help encourage melanocyte activity and improve overall pigment blending too,” reveals O’Nwere-Tan.

At home, the priority is rebuilding a healthy skin environment rather than aggressively targeting pigment loss itself. “Start with the basics: a gentle, non-stripping cleanser, a ceramide-rich moisturiser to restore barrier function, and SPF 50 every single day without exception. Once the skin is calm and the barrier is intact, vitamin C is worth introducing gradually. It supports antioxidant defence and helps address the oxidative stress that contributes to melanocyte disruption. Azelaic acid at 10-20 per cent is another useful option as it has anti-inflammatory properties, helps regulate melanocyte activity and is well tolerated across skin tones. Once fully stabilised, a low-strength retinoid can be introduced to support cell turnover and improve overall pigment distribution,” explains O’Nwere-Tan.

Managing expectations

When it comes to repigmentation, patience is key. I’ve experienced this first-hand, as it’s taken a whopping two years to see an improvement in mine, and there’s still a way to go. In milder post-inflammatory cases, Mihalachi says, “melanocyte function may begin to recover within four to twelve weeks. More moderate cases can take months to a year. But severe cases involving deep trauma or melanocyte destruction may not fully resolve.”

My aim is to keep treating my hypopigmentation at home and in clinic for another year and then reevaluate. O’Nwere-Tan thinks that’s wise: “In some cases the goal may shift to blending and stabilisation rather than complete reversal.” And that’s where cosmetic camouflage comes in, think tattooing but skin tone matching rather than a pretty design to hide my hypopigmentation. Alternatively, acceptance that skin tone can change—it’s not always even, and there’s no such thing as perfect.

Your hypopigmentation recovery kit

We all have distinguishable features. For the last ten years or so, mine have been the dark raised moles that appeared across my cheeks and temples during my late twenties. I wasn’t born with them. I woke up one day, and they were just… there. Initially, I liked them. The small dark brown moles formed a pattern that resembled a constellation of dark stars across my face. I’ve been affectionately called “freckle face” by close friends ever since.

But they weren’t freckles. The raised lesions across my cheeks and temples were dermatosis papulosa nigra—which may sound scary but are completely benign and harmless. These moles (see also: skin tags, freckles, lesions) are commonly found in darker skin tones and among people of African and Asian heritage. For Black and brown women in our 30s, they almost feel like a rite of passage. In a recent post on Threads, one user shared,” Any Black women turn 30, and all of a sudden get crazy moles!??” The post received hundreds of beautiful photos of Black and brown women sharing their moles and freckles that looked almost identical to my own. In this space, these common imperfections felt like something to celebrate. And yet, I have decided to remove mine via advanced electrolysis.

It’s been hard to admit that I didn’t want my DPN anymore. Removing my moles, which are a direct result of being melanated, felt somewhat in conflict with loving my brown skin and my blackness. Yet, when looking in the mirror (as I do often as a beauty journalist), I noticed they had begun to grow and cluster so much that you could pull and flick them. They migrated from my cheeks to take new homes on my forehead and chin. My cute “freckles,” which people had so often complimented, were starting to affect my confidence.

What actually causes Dermatosis Papulosa Nigra?

DPN is thought to be hereditary. My father had the same cluster of DPN moles at his temples, and so did my grandmother. Still, dermatologists aren’t exactly sure what causes their growth.

I spoke to London-based Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Derrick Phillips, who explained that DPN is “very common”. “It predominantly affects people with darker skin tones, and there is a strong genetic component, so it often runs in families,” he explained.

I was curious whether my stressful (however reasonably healthy) lifestyle had contributed to the growths. Dr Phillips explained that the exact cause isn't fully understood, though it's considered a variant of seborrhoeic keratoses—harmless skin growths.

What are the best DPN removal methods for Black and brown skin tones?

As a beauty journalist, I’ve spoken to many Black women who are intrigued by procedures to remove DPN but are extremely cautious. It’s understandable. For a long time, darker skin tones weren’t represented, nor included in scientific research for skincare and advanced skincare treatments.

When I first met Sam Marshall of the Omnia clinic, a specialist waxing, laser and electrolysis clinic in Manchester, I was assured that with advanced electrolysis, I could achieve blemish-free skin safely.

Sam Marshall is a beauty therapist and educator who also sits on the British Beauty Council’s DEI committee. With an established history of working with all skin tones, she confirmed that advanced electrolysis could reduce my DPN while preserving my skin.

In simple terms, advanced electrolysis uses a tiny probe that delivers an electric current to remove skin tags, moles, and milia. “We treat DPN with advanced electrolysis because it is more precise than other methods,” explained Marshall. Satisfying my curiosity, she demonstrated how the tiny probe delivers an electrical current that cauterises the blemish so it dries up to a crisp. “It’s all about safety,” Marshall added, “especially in Black skin, where the risks would be hyperpigmentation or even hypopigmentation.”

Other methods available for DPN removal include curettage, cryotherapy and melanin-safe laser treatment, such as CO2 or Erbium: YAG laser. Dr Phillips warned that some of these more aggressive treatments need to be “used with caution” in darker skin tones.

“There isn’t a single best treatment,” he explained. “It’s about selecting the most appropriate approach for the individual, particularly when treating darker skin tones, where the risk of pigmentary change needs to be carefully managed.”

My advanced electrolysis removal procedure and results

I’ll be straight with you. It can hurt. For each mole, you feel an acutely sharp burning sensation. But it’s over quickly. The process generally takes 20-30 minutes, depending on how many moles you have.

My treatment was completed over the course of four sessions to monitor how my skin heals and to ensure that there’s minimal damage to healthy skin tissue. This staged approach to the process was reassuring.

Days after my treatments, the DPN lesions would quite literally fall off — in my bed and when washing my face. I have been diligent with my sunscreen application and reapplication during this process. The fear of hyperpigmentation is always a concern. Upon recommendation, I’ve been using Heliocare’s Gel Oil-Free SPF 50 and Ultrasun sports spray SPF 50 when running outside.

I have one more treatment to go, and it will take a few months to see how well my skin heals, but right now, my scarring is imperceptible. The difference is very noticeable.

I thought I’d feel more emotional seeing my skin without the moles. I am a sentimental person and a creature of habit (I’ve had the same hairstyle for a decade), so I felt like I was waving goodbye to a part of me. I quickly got over it. When I woke up and washed my face, and my hand glided over my smoother skin, I knew I had made the right decision.

The aesthetics industry has come a long way in the last decade. There’s an array of complexion-enhancing injectables, a host of smarter and more inclusive devices, and many are a lot safer, too. But there’s a growing body of evidence suggesting that hormonal changes—specifically during perimenopause—may be one of the most significant and least-discussed drivers of how skin ages and how well it responds to treatment.

For those of us in our 30s and 40s who’re noticing our Botox is wearing off faster than it used to, our filler isn’t sitting quite right, or our skin is reacting to treatments it used to tolerate well—it’s probably not the treatment failing. It’s our hormones. And according to Dr Mayoni Gooneratne, integrative aesthetics specialist and founder of Skin Fit, the aesthetic industry has yet to catch up.

Perimenopause, explained

Before you reach menopause (which is the day you’ve gone 12 consecutive months without a period), you have to contend with perimenopause. It’s a long and often arduous transitional phase that can last anywhere from two to eight years, typically starting in a woman’s early-to-mid 40s, though it can begin as early as the mid-30s.

“Progesterone declines due to less frequent and less robust ovulation as our egg supply decreases. While oestrogen levels fluctuate wildly, sometimes spiking to higher levels than ever before, creating a hormonal rollercoaster effect. These more dramatic fluctuations, rather than simple declines, are what trigger many perimenopausal symptoms,” explains Gooneratne. Those symptoms include the ones we commonly associate with ‘the change’ —think mood swings, hot flashes, and night sweats —as well as many we don’t realise are hormone-related—like major changes in how we look.

How perimenopause affects your skin

Oestrogen is one of our skin’s secret weapons. It stimulates collagen production, maintains elasticity, triggers hyaluronic acid production and reinforces the ceramide and lipid layers that keep skin hydrated and protected. Beyond the surface, it dictates where and how much fat we hold in our face, and it's responsible for maintaining bone density and structural support. When oestrogen levels become erratic and eventually decline, everything starts to unravel. Cue, menopause-face.

“As the skin barrier weakens, ceramide levels drop, making skin drier, more reactive and less able to retain moisture. Over time, lower oestrogen levels also trigger a reduction in firmness and an accelerated breakdown of elastin. Eventually, we can lose up to 30 per cent of our skin's collagen within just the first five years after menopause, with an ongoing annual decline of approximately 2.1 per cent thereafter,” reveals Gooneratne.

But this all starts way before we hit menopause. Sudden dryness in previously oily skin, increased reactivity to products previously tolerated, dullness, loss of luminosity, hyperpigmentation around the mouth, neck and hairline as well as hollowing under the eyes, deepening nasolabial folds and jowling, are all little clues that you’re in perimenopause, even if you’re not getting hot flashes and headaches.

How perimenopause affects aesthetic treatments

Perimenopause doesn’t just change how your face looks, it also changes how your skin responds to intervention.

“A compromised skin barrier with reduced ceramide levels makes skin more reactive and prone to inflammation following procedures. Declining collagen and elastin production weakens the structural scaffolding that supports injected fillers, potentially affecting how products integrate and how long results last. Disrupted sleep—common in perimenopause—impairs the skin's natural healing and regeneration processes, potentially slowing recovery and compromising optimal treatment outcomes. Alongside that, the hormonal fluctuations themselves create a less stable treatment environment, as skin characteristics may vary significantly depending on where a woman is in her perimenopausal cycle,” explains Gooneratne.

When it comes to wrinkle-relaxing injections (botulinum toxin) like Botox, they often wear off faster during perimenopause due to a combination of hormonal drops, accelerated collagen loss, and shifting metabolism. Essentially when oestrogen does start to drop, the skin thins and loses elasticity, this causes the treated muscles to "pull" through the skin more quickly, while overall hormone shifts can alter your metabolic rate and speed up how quickly your body breaks down and clears the botulinum toxin from your system.

And then there’s cortisol. The increased cortisol sensitivity during perimenopause creates a heightened inflammatory response, meaning treatments that involve any degree of tissue trauma (microneedling, lasers, radiofrequency, hifu, peels and injectables) can cause more pronounced swelling, longer downtime, and an increased risk of adverse reactions. “This isn’t genuine treatment failure, but rather a mismatch between what the treatment can deliver and what the hormonally-changing skin actually needs,” believes Gooneratne.

How to approach menopause-face

The solution isn’t to stop having treatments altogether; it’s to approach them differently. Dr Gooneratne argues that hormone-informed consultations should be the standard, not the exception. “Practitioners should be asking questions they currently aren’t,” she says. Questions like, has your cycle changed in regularity or flow? Do you have symptoms like hot flashes, night sweats, sleep disruption, increased anxiety or brain fog? Have previously successful treatments stopped delivering the same results? “This conversation should normalise perimenopause as a relevant factor in aesthetic outcomes and position treatment planning as a collaborative process,” adds Gooneratne.

In terms of what we can do, addressing our hormone levels is key. Hormonal replacement therapy (HRT) can help restore collagen production, improve barrier function and reduce inflammatory sensitivity, creating a more stable environment for treatments to work in. But equally, lifestyle interventions can be massively helpful too. “Prioritising sleep architecture through consistent sleep-wake times, managing stress through nervous system regulation rather than chronic high-intensity exercise, stabilising blood sugar through balanced meal timing, and correcting nutrient deficiencies - all improve the skin's baseline responsiveness,” shares Gooneratne.

When it comes to the outside, aka our skin, it just takes a little more prep and planning to get the results you desire from your treatments. Gooneratne advises, “barrier repair through ceramide-containing products and appropriate hydration strategies to create skin that's less reactive and better able to tolerate procedures. Treatment timing may need to be adjusted to account for hormonal fluctuations within the perimenopausal cycle, and protocols may need modification—gentler approaches, longer intervals between treatments, or combination strategies that support skin health alongside cosmetic correction.”

If this sounds like you...

So, it turns out that if you’re perimenopausal, what you’re experiencing isn’t necessarily treatment failure. It’s your body entering a new hormonal phase that changes how your skin behaves and responds. “This isn’t your fault, and it’s not that you’ve become difficult to treat, it’s that the standard aesthetic approach hasn’t yet caught up to the reality that hormonal ageing requires a different, more comprehensive strategy than chronological ageing alone,” says Gooneratne.

If your practitioner doesn’t ask you about your hormonal health, share it with them anyway (or find someone who does). When you factor in how perimenopause impacts the skin, you’ll likely find you’ll start getting the results you want out of your favourite in-clinic treatments.

Our skin needs different things at different times of the year, and by the time summer comes around, I’m always desperate to swap my rich moisturising cream for a lighter and more refreshing alternative. I find that my skin needs more hydration in the summer, whereas in the winter it needs more occlusive moisturisation.

When choosing a summer moisturiser, it’s important to think about your skin type and how your makeup typically holds up in warm weather. Summer is the season where sweating increases, more rigorous SPF application is required, and cool-downs are always welcome, so choosing a moisturiser for this season requires some thought.

I spoke to 14 fellow beauty editors I trust – all with different skin types – to find out their holy grail moisturiser for summer. And I’ve got to be honest, some of them surprised me. No matter what your skin type and requirements, I guarantee that there’s a summer moisturiser on this list that will work for you.

Summer moisturisers: Quick shopping links

• Glow Recipe Watermelon Milk Peptide Cushion Cream - £35, Sephora
• Clarins Extra Firming Energy Day Cream - £79, Sephora
• Charlotte Tilbury Magic Cream - £79, Cult Beauty
• Cle de Peau Beaute Exclusive UV Protective Cream SPF 50 – £98, Look Fantastic
• Clinique Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion+™ - £37, Look Fantastic

Best Summer Moisturisers to Shop Now

The coming of summer only means one thing: it's time to get on top of your body care. More time in the sun makes SPF a non-negotiable, but further nourishing your skin to cope with shaving, dry weather, salty sea water, and stripping chlorine can make all the difference. Body moisturisers with SPF are the one-step addition to your routine that tick every box.

Where they differ from regular body SPFs is the hydrating ingredients that you get alongside UV protection. Rather than applying your body cream and sunscreen separately, you can kill two birds with one stone and enjoy minimal drying time. This also makes them ideal for seasonal travel when you're packing light.

Much like SPF moisturisers for the face, our tried and tested edit of body moisturisers with SPF can be trusted to stay non-greasy, sink in effortlessly, and offer lasting protection.

Best body moisturisers with SPF: Quick shopping links

• Best everyday: Bondi Sands SPF 50+ Everyday Lotion, £16 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• High protection: Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF 50, £18.40 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best premium: Aesop Protective Body Lotion SPF 50, £33 at Cult Beauty
• Most affordable: Nivea Soft Daily UV SPF 15, £3.33 at Amazon (save 70%)
• Best for deep hydration: Vaseline Healthy Bright Sun Protection Body Lotion SPF 30, £15.59 at Amazon
• Best for glow: Caudalie High Protection Glow Oil SPF 50, £17.60 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best for shimmer: Nuxe Sun Oil Shimmering Gold SPF 50, £23.60 at LookFantastic (save 20%)
• Best for sensitive skin: Aveeno Protect + Hydrate Moisturizing Body Sun Lotion, £39.98 at Amazon