Our scalps are just as complex as our faces. And while you may be all clued up about your skin barrier, many people know surprisingly little about the hair on their head. I speak from experience; it’s only in the last few years that I discovered that our scalps have a skin barrier that’s equally as delicate. And much like how we can tell when our skin barrier is compromised (sudden acne, inflammation and dryness), the same applies to our scalp.

Because our scalps are literally skin, the mechanism is the same. The barrier works around the clock to keep hydration in and irritants out. What’s more, it has an incredibly complex microbiome—it’s a living ecosystem composed of fungi, bacteria and yeasts that balance oil production and defend against environmental aggressors. But given that you can’t see your scalp easily, it can be harder to know if it’s out of balance. There won’t be a tell-tale breakout, but there will be other signs: namely, dryness, irritation, dandruff and even hair shedding.

That’s where it gets tricky. Perhaps two of the most common hair-related ailments, a dry scalp and dandruff, look surprisingly alike. “Both share two obvious symptoms, flaking and itching, so on the surface they look very similar, and people assume any flaking must be dandruff,” explains consultant dermatologist and the founder of rhute, Dr Aamna Adel.

The core difference is that “a dry scalp comes from a lack of hydration and moisture retention,” says trichologist Dr Sharon Wong, “whereas dandruff is driven by an imbalance in the scalp microbiome, with natural yeasts feeding on sebum. This releases acids that irritate the skin and cause flaking.”

The trick is to proceed cautiously if you believe you’re suffering from either. “The confusion causes problems, because managing dandruff as if it were simple dryness, or vice versa, often doesn't work and can even make things worse,” explains Dr Adel. “Using a rich oil on true dandruff, for example, can feed the process and aggravate it.”

What Are the Symptoms of a Dry Scalp?

The tell-tale signs of a dry scalp are tightness, itchiness and occasional sensitivity. It often produces small, fine, dry flakes that are white and powdery. The skin here can feel rough or papery and, as experts note, it can extend to the rest of your body, too. It’s typically worse in colder weather and in dry, centrally heated environments, which pull moisture from the skin.

What Are the Symptoms of Dandruff?

The main difference is in the flakes. Dandruff flakes are usually larger, yellowish and greasier than dry-scalp flakes, and they often come with an oilier scalp rather than a dry one. Your scalp can feel itchy and you may also notice redness or irritation, particularly in the oilier areas.

Dandruff is also a common inflammatory scalp condition (seborrheic dermatitis), linked to eczema, and it tends to be more persistent and recurrent than dry scalp.

What Causes a Dry Scalp vs Dandruff?

It’s pretty self-explanatory: a dry scalp is caused by a lack of hydration and moisture retention, often triggered by cold weather, indoor heating, over-washing or harsh, stripping products.

Dandruff is the more complicated condition, as it’s caused by a microbiome imbalance and driven by seborrheic dermatitis, where a naturally occurring yeast on the scalp, along with oil and inflammation, feeds on the sebum and leads to flaking.

“The core difference is that dry scalp is about a lack of moisture, whereas dandruff is about oil and an inflammatory process on the scalp,” elaborates Dr Adel. Flakes, she says, are usually the biggest clue. A dry scalp gives small, dry, white and powdery flakes, while dandruff results in larger, greasy, yellowish ones. A dry scalp often comes with a corresponding tight feeling in your skin, whereas dandruff means an oilier scalp, sometimes with redness.

How to Treat a Dry Scalp

First, take a gentle approach; ensure you're not washing your hair aggressively, avoid hot water, harsh shampoos and opt for hydrating, soothing washes to restore lost moisture. Dr Wong highlights looking for products that include humectants, to draw water into the skin, moisturisers to retain hydration, and ceramides to support the scalp barrier going forward.

Marie Claire-Approved Products for Dry Scalps

How to Treat Dandruff

Dandruff is most commonly treated with anti-dandruff shampoos that contain actives like zinc pyrithione or ketoconazole; these target the yeast, instead of just moisturising the skin. De-scaling actives, which often incorporate salicylic acid, can also aid with sebum control.

Of course, if the flaking is severe or doesn’t respond to over-the-counter products, it’s worth seeing a professional as dandruff can look similar to other scalp conditions, so proper diagnosis may be necessary. If the dandruff is persistent, a trichologist may advise prescription topicals.

No Flake, Marie Claire-Test Dandruff Treatments

The eyes are often the first feature we notice when looking at someone, and one of the first areas where changes in our skin become apparent. Fine lines, dark circles, puffiness, and changes in eyelid firmness are among the most common concerns, but while they can look similar, their underlying causes—and the treatments most likely to help—can differ dramatically.

A 2026 survey published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology identified under-eye bags and dark circles among the most frequently reported aesthetic concerns throughout the demographic groups surveyed. But treating the eye area is rarely as straightforward as choosing an eye cream. Pigmentation, fluid retention, collagen loss, and changes in anatomy can all affect its appearance, and identifying the cause is essential before choosing a treatment.

It's also an area that demands particular care. The skin around the eyes is thinner than on much of the face, and its proximity to the ocular surface means certain ingredients and procedures require extra care.

So, what actually works? We've broken down the most common eye concerns, separating accessible at-home solutions from more targeted treatments and specialist procedures. We've also classified options by level of intervention and price: an expensive eye cream isn't necessarily more effective than a cheaper one, and even the most sophisticated topical formula has limitations.

At-home: Skincare, lifestyle changes and simple techniques that can improve the appearance of the eye area.

Targeted treatments: More intensive skincare ingredients, at-home devices and non-invasive approaches, where there is evidence to support their use.

In-clinic: Professional treatments, injectables and surgical procedures that may be appropriate for more marked or structural concerns.

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Fine lines around the eyes are an inevitable consequence of facial movement and changes in skin composition over time. Repeated expressions like smiling and squinting contribute to crow's feet, while declining collagen levels and cumulative UV exposure can make lines more visible, even while at rest.

It's worth distinguishing between lines caused predominantly by dehydration, which may improve with skincare, and deeper wrinkles associated with muscle movement and structural changes. The latter generally require more specific intervention.

At-Home: CeraVe Skin Renewing Eye Cream

Hydration is one of the simplest ways to temporarily soften the appearance of fine lines, particularly where dehydration is making the skin look crepey. CeraVe Skin Renewing Eye Cream combines peptides, niacinamide and ceramides in a formula designed to support the skin barrier and improve the appearance of fine lines. It is also ophthalmologist-tested, an important consideration for a product intended for the delicate eye area.

“I recommend peptides, alongside hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin, ceramides to strengthen the skin barrier, and antioxidants such as vitamins C and E,” advises Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, Ocuplastic Surgeon and Aesthetic Doctor. “Peptides can be a gentler alternative to retinol for those who cannot tolerate it.”

While a well-formulated eye cream can help skin look smoother and more supple, it cannot reverse deeper wrinkles. Daily broad-spectrum SPF is arguably the most important preventative measure, given the role of UV exposure in premature skin ageing.

Targeted Treatment: Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye

Retinoids are among the better-studied topical ingredients for improving the appearance of photoaged skin, including fine lines. By influencing skin-cell turnover and collagen-related processes, they can produce gradual improvements in texture and wrinkles—as long as they are used consistently.

When it comes to the eye area though, we have to be extra cautious. Retinol can cause dryness, irritation and sensitivity, and products used too close to the eyes may aggravate symptoms. “Strong actives can also migrate into the eye and disrupt the surface of the eye. I recommend a lightweight, ophthalmologist-tested formula suitable for sensitive eyes, applying just a grain-of-rice amount per eye and gently tapping along the orbital bone,” explains Dr Hawkes.

Medik8 Crystal Retinal Ceramide Eye offers a buildable, cautious approach. It comes in three progressive strengths, featuring encapsulated Retinaldehyde for ultra-slow release to be even more gentle, plus ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to hydrate and nourish. Plus, it’s been tested by both dermatologists and ophthalmologists.

In-clinic: Botulinum Toxin

For expression-related wrinkles, particularly crow's feet, Botox can offer more noticeable results than skincare by temporarily relaxing the muscles that repeatedly crease.

“Botulinum toxin can soften lines caused by muscle movement and, when carefully placed, softly raise the eyebrows to improve the appearance of hooded eyelids,” explains Dr Hawkes. “With injectables, careful patient selection is essential, particularly around the lower lids, where the complex anatomy and lymphatic system can lead to swelling and lumps. The ideal approach is always ‘less is more,” with treatment designed for the individual by a specialist oculoplastic surgeon.”

Botox works best for wrinkles caused by movement, not deeply set lines visible at rest.

Puffiness

Temporary puffiness often results from fluid retention, which can fluctuate throughout the day and be influenced by sleep, salt intake, and other lifestyle factors. Persistent swelling, however, may have different underlying causes and should not automatically be treated as a cosmetic concern.

The distinction matters because products that temporarily reduce the appearance of swelling won't necessarily address persistent eye bags caused by structural changes.

At-Home: CeraVe Eye Repair Cream

For mild morning puffiness, cooling the eye area can briefly reduce swelling. A cool compress is a straightforward starting point, while a lightweight eye cream can help preserve moisture and improve the appearance of the surrounding skin.

CeraVe Eye Repair Cream contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide, with a formula designed to hydrate the delicate eye area and reduce the appearance of puffiness and dark circles. While it can improve skin texture and hydration, it can't reverse fluid retention or reshape the eye socket structure.

Targeted Treatment: TheraFace Depuffing Wand

TheraFace's Depuffing Wand uses temperature-based settings designed to provide warming and cooling treatments around the face. Its contoured shape lets you use it around the under-eye area, with the cooling function intended to temporarily reduce the appearance of puffiness.

While cooling can provide a temporary improvement, there's not a huge amount of evidence to support that these kinds of devices provide lasting changes in lymphatic drainage or under-eye swelling. The device is most accurately described as a temporary de-puffing tool rather than a treatment for the underlying cause of persistent swelling.

In-Clinic: Assessing the Underlying Cause

“For temporary puffiness, addressing fluid retention through good sleep, hydration and reducing salt intake can help, while a gentle massage may assist with fluid drainage,” recommends Dr Hawkes.

If puffiness is an ongoing problem, it's worth getting to the bottom of what's causing it before considering injectables. Hyaluronic acid fillers, for example, can attract and hold onto water, potentially making swelling worse rather than better.

Dr Maude Calveley, Aesthetics Doctor at Holistic Facial Aesthetic Clinic Ouronyx, agrees, “In general, this is an issue I treat least with injectables. Rather than hyaluronic acid filler, which I am careful with as it can attract and hold water and worsen the puffiness, polynucleotides can instead calm inflammation and improve skin quality. Some patients have found the area looks less swollen as a result.”

Polynucleotides are chains of nucleotides, the molecular building blocks of DNA and RNA. Injectable formulations, commonly derived from fish DNA, are used in aesthetic medicine with the aim of improving skin quality and supporting tissue repair. However, evidence for their effectiveness specifically in treating under-eye puffiness remains limited, and improvements in texture should not be confused with the elimination of fluid retention.

If the swelling doesn't go away or you're not sure what's causing it, it's worth getting it checked out before trying any cosmetic treatments.

Eye Bags

Although often used interchangeably with puffiness, true under-eye bags are generally structural rather than simply the result of temporary fluid retention.

“They are usually caused by the orbital septum, a delicate membrane that holds the fat surrounding the eye in place, weakening over time and allowing the fat pads to protrude forwards,” says Dr Hawkes.

As the supporting structures around the eye change with age, fat pads can become more prominent, creating a bulge beneath the lower eyelid. Surrounding volume loss may make this look worse by creating a visible hollow or shadow beneath the bag. Skincare can help to improve the look of the overlying skin, but it won’t reposition protruding orbital fat.

At-Home: Hydration and Skin Quality

For structural eye bags, there is no topical product capable of correcting the underlying fat protrusion. Simply keeping the area hydrated though and improving the texture of the surrounding skin may make the area appear smoother.

A gentle moisturising eye cream containing ingredients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid or ceramides can help address dehydration lines, while daily sun protection helps ward off further ageing. These measures can improve the appearance of the skin but won't eliminate the bag itself.

Targeted Treatment: CurrentBody Skin LED Eye Perfector

LED devices are increasingly marketed for concerns around the eyes, including fine lines, dark circles and eye bags. Red and near-infrared light have been studied for their potential effects on skin quality, although results depend on the device, treatment parameters and consistency of use.

“LED masks using red light at 633nm and near-infrared light at 830nm can support skin rejuvenation by improving cellular energy production and skin quality,” says Dr Hawkes.

In-Clinic: Filler or Lower Blepharoplasty

For more pronounced structural bags, treatment depends on the relationship between the protruding fat and surrounding facial volume. In some cases, carefully placed filler may soften the transition between the lower eyelid and cheek, making a bag less noticeable without removing it.

“For mild under-eye bags, treatments such as polynucleotides or platelet-rich plasma may help improve skin quality, while carefully selected dermal fillers can restore volume in appropriate patients with tear-trough hollows,” says Dr Hawkes. “However, these treatments call for careful assessment by an experienced practitioner. For moderate to severe bags caused by protruding orbital fat, lower blepharoplasty remains the most effective and long-lasting option.”

Lower blepharoplasty is a surgical procedure that can remove or reposition protruding fat and, where appropriate, address excess skin. It delivers a more direct approach to structural eye bags, but requires a thorough consultation with a suitably qualified specialist to discuss suitability, recovery and potential complications.

Dark Circles

Dark circles are one of the most frequently discussed eye concerns, yet they are also among the most difficult to treat effectively because there is no single underlying cause.

In some people, discolouration is caused predominantly by increased pigmentation. In others, visible blood vessels, thin skin or shadowing from tear-trough hollows may be responsible. Genetics, allergies and facial anatomy can all play a role, and numerous factors may coexist.

This explains why a brightening eye cream can make a noticeable difference for one person and virtually none for another.

At-Home: Tatcha Brightening Eye Cream

For pigmentation-related dark circles, ingredients such as vitamin C and other brightening agents may help improve the appearance of discolouration over time. Tatcha's Brightening Eye Cream is formulated to target uneven tone and improve radiance, making it a more logical recommendation for pigmentation-related dark circles than for structural eye bags.

Daily sun protection is also important, particularly where UV exposure contributes to pigmentation.

Targeted Treatment: Specialist Assessment

For dark circles caused by tear-trough hollows, volume correction may improve shadowing in appropriately selected patients. However, filler is not suitable for every anatomy and can produce swelling or other complications.

Where pigmentation or vascular factors are predominant, volume replacement may have little benefit. A specialist assessment is therefore essential before pursuing injectable or energy-based treatments around the eyes.

Hooded Eyes

Changes in the upper eyelids can occur as the skin loses elasticity, while the position of the eyebrows and the underlying facial anatomy can also shape how hooded the eyes appear.

It's important to distinguish between naturally hooded eyelids, excess upper-eyelid skin that develops with age and true eyelid ptosis, where the eyelid margin itself sits lower than normal. These are different anatomical concerns and may require different treatments.

Although skincare and certain devices can temporarily improve the appearance of firmness, they cannot correct significant excess skin or a drooping eyelid.

At-home: Dior Capture Pro-Collagen Shot

Dior's Capture Pro-Collagen Shot combines biotechnology-derived collagen fragments, peptides and the brand's proprietary OX-C Treatment complex, alongside film-forming polymers that create an immediate, temporary tightening effect. The formula also contains glycerin to hydrate and plump the skin, helping to improve the appearance of fine lines and firmness.

Targeted Treatment: NuFace Trinity

Microcurrent technology uses low-level electrical currents to stimulate facial muscles, helping to create a temporarily more lifted, sculpted appearance. NuFace's Trinity device, paired with the precision-designed Effective Lip & Eye attachment, targets the delicate eye area, including the brow bone and outer corners of the eyes.

With consistent use, it can improve firmness and definition, making it a great option for those who want to subtly lift and refresh the eye area without more invasive treatments. While it won't correct significant excess eyelid skin, it offers a convenient, non-invasive way to enhance the appearance of the upper eye area.

In-Clinic: Energy-Based Treatments and Blepharoplasty

“For mild skin laxity, certain energy-based treatments may improve firmness, but their suitability around the eyes requires particular scrutiny,,” says Helen Chapman, Advanced Nurse Practitioner and founder of HAC Aesthetics. “These treatments may improve skin firmness and mild laxity by stimulating collagen production or tightening tissue. These treatments generally involve less downtime than surgery, although results vary depending on the technology used and degree of skin laxity.”

Plasma treatments and radiofrequency microneedling offer ways to tighten skin without surgery, making them appealing options for anyone trying to address mild sagging. However, the eye area is particularly delicate, so choosing an experienced practitioner is essential to minimise unwanted side effects like burns, scarring, pigmentation changes and, in rare cases, eye damage.

For more noticeable sagging or excess skin on the upper eyelids, blepharoplasty can offer a more dramatic, long-lasting result. The procedure removes excess skin to create a smoother, more open-eyed appearance. However, if the eyelid itself is drooping due to a condition called ptosis, a different type of surgery may be needed. An oculoplastic specialist can help determine which approach will deliver the best results.

Tear Troughs & Hollows

Unlike puffiness or eye bags, tear troughs are depressions beneath the lower eyelids that can create shadows and make the eyes appear tired, even when the skin itself is healthy. “Tear troughs are hollows beneath the eyes associated with facial structure and age-related volume loss,” says Dr Hawkes.

Some people have naturally pronounced tear troughs from a young age, while others develop more visible hollows as facial fat distribution and supporting structures change over time. Skincare can improve the appearance of the overlying skin, but it cannot restore significant lost volume or fundamentally change the shape of the under-eye area.

At-home: SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Advanced Eye

SkinCeuticals A.G.E. Advanced Eye combines Proxylane with other ingredients intended to improve the appearance of wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles. Its moisturising properties may help the under-eye skin appear smoother and temporarily more plump, making shadows less noticeable.

Targeted Treatment: Revision Skincare D.E.J Eye Cream

Skin Strategist Debbie Thomas, founder of D Thomas Clinic, recommends this formula: “I particularly like that it's designed for the whole eye area, including upper eyelids, which many eye creams overlook. It helps with hydration, fine lines and the appearance of firmness.”

Revision Skincare's D.E.J Eye Cream takes a thorough approach to eye-area ageing, with a formula designed to improve firmness, smooth fine lines and strengthen the skin's moisture barrier. It's particularly well-suited to the upper eyelids, an area often neglected by traditional eye creams where changes in skin elasticity can be especially noticeable. By improving hydration, texture and the appearance of firmness, it can help the entire eye area look smoother, plumper and more refreshed.

In-Clinic: Restylane Eyelight

For more pronounced under-eye hollows, injectable fillers offer a targeted way to restore lost volume and create a smoother, more refreshed appearance. Galderma's Restylane Eyelight has been specifically developed for the delicate tear-trough area, using the brand's NASHA technology to deliver natural-looking volume correction. Its hyaluronic acid gel has relatively low water uptake, which really helps in an area particularly prone to puffiness, and can help soften the shadows that make eyes appear tired.

“This can soften under-eye hollows and restore lost volume in carefully selected patients. Strategically placed filler can also improve the transition between the lower eyelid and upper cheek, creating a smoother, more rested appearance,” explains Helen Chapman.

For suitable candidates, the results can be transformative, particularly where dark circles are caused by shadowing rather than pigmentation. The key is expert assessment and precise placement: the under-eye area has complex anatomy, and inappropriate treatment can have serious side effects. In experienced hands, however, Restylane Eyelight provides a sophisticated option for addressing hollows that even the most cutting-edge eye creams cannot correct.

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

Two years ago, I had a dedicated ‘hair loss shelf’ in my bathroom. Scalp serums. Density sprays. Detox shampoos. Supplements lined up beside the sink. After years of shedding, specialist appointments and failed treatments, I dreaded wash days. The brush was my enemy. My scalp felt sore and reactive, almost sunburnt at times, particularly around ovulation and before my period. My temples had started thinning and my parting looked visibly wider. I avoided mirrors. Nights out became harder to say yes to. My confidence quietly collapsed.

But my hair wasn’t the only thing struggling.

Long before the shedding became impossible to ignore, my body started sending signals that something was off. I was constantly exhausted. My digestion had never properly recovered after a bout of severe food poisoning abroad. My cycles had become increasingly irregular. I developed painful inflammatory lesions on my hands and was later monitored for chilblain lupus. But no one seemed to consider whether they were all connected. When it came to my hair loss, the focus always returned to scalp-based solutions rather than exploring how my wider health might be contributing.

Hair loss in women is commonly diagnosed, but rarely fully understood. Across social media, dermatology clinics and women’s health forums, more women are trying to understand why chronic shedding seems to be increasingly common. Labels like ‘telogen effluvium’ or ‘female pattern hair loss’ can be clinically accurate, yet they still fail to explain why hair shedding began in the first place.

For many women, chronic hair loss exists alongside gut dysfunction, immune stress, hormonal disruption or post-infectious inflammation, factors that often sit outside the scope of a scalp diagnosis once it has been made. In my case, when an NHS biopsy eventually confirmed chronic telogen effluvium alongside androgenic alopecia, I thought I’d finally have answers. Instead, I was left unsatisfied. The diagnosis explained what was happening to my hair, but not why my body seemed unable to recover. It felt like the story had ended without ever really being explained.

Around this time, I began working with trichologist Shannel Watson. She was not interested in overriding diagnoses or offering alternative labels. Instead, she kept asking questions about context: timing, stress, immune load, digestion, hormones, inflammation, nutrition and my health history.

What changed was not a single diagnosis, but the framework itself. For the first time, someone was looking at my hair loss as part of a wider physiological picture rather than an isolated scalp issue.

“Hair is a non-essential tissue; the body will sacrifice it very quickly when it’s under chronic stress or inflammation,” explains Watson. “By the time many women notice shedding, the body may already have been compensating for dysfunction elsewhere for months—or even years.”

That shift in perspective led to extensive testing, including gut microbiome analysis through Randox Health, alongside blood tests and abdominal scans via London Blood Tests. The results painted a much broader picture than I expected.

Further GI testing revealed significant gut dysbiosis (an imbalance in the community of microorganisms living in your digestive tract) alongside evidence of a parasite. My scalp microbiome also showed signs of imbalance, including low bacterial diversity (fewer different types of bacteria than is optimal) and higher levels of bacteria often associated with inflammation.

Separately, hormone testing suggested chronic cortisol dysregulation. None of these findings in isolation fully explained my hair loss. Together, though, they started to explain why my body appeared stuck in a constant state of physiological stress.

I was not neglecting my health. I had changed my diet, stopped drinking alcohol, cut caffeine, spent heavily on supplements and followed protocols based on blood work and specialist guidance. But despite making some gains, I never seemed able to properly stabilise the bigger picture.

My approach became far more targeted. Using the test results as a guide, I removed gluten and refined sugar from my diet and significantly reduced dairy. I began a tailored supplement protocol to support digestion, address nutritional deficiencies, and help regulate the inflammatory process that may have been contributing to my symptoms. For the first time, the goal wasn’t forcing my hair to grow back as quickly as possible. It was convincing my body it was safe again.

The results were not dramatic in the way social media had conditioned me to expect. There was no miracle supplement. No overnight transformation. Addressing the underlying strain did not suddenly produce thick, glossy hair—Watson never promised a quick fix. The emphasis was always on stabilisation first, understanding that hair recovery often significantly lags behind improvements elsewhere in the body.

But it did something quieter and more important. My scalp became calmer. The soreness significantly reduced. Inflammatory lesions on my hands hadn’t appeared in months. My nails, which had become weak and brittle during the peak of my shedding, started growing stronger again. I had more energy. And for the first time in almost a year, things stopped getting progressively worse.

Only afterwards did I begin noticing changes in my hair itself. The shedding became less aggressive. I started seeing regrowth around my temples and hairline. My roots felt denser. What I began to understand was this: hair loss does not always respond to being attacked. It responds to being supported.

Watson also identified another overlooked factor: buildup on my scalp, likely from sebum, hard-water minerals, and bacterial biofilm. Together, they may have been contributing to a low-grade inflammatory environment around the follicles.

I live in a very hard-water area and installed a whole-house water-softening system several months ago (showerhead filters offer a more affordable starting point for tackling certain impurities). I noticed my shampoo lathered properly again almost immediately and my hair felt smoother and less congested at the root.

Watson also advised me to stop overusing harsher detox shampoos and focus instead on protecting my scalp barrier. I shifted to gentler, barrier-supportive products that cleaned my scalp thoroughly without leaving it stripped or reactive afterwards.

I tried to simplify my scalp routine, adding calming treatments like Philip Kingsley’s Overnight Scalp Barrier Serum and the FAQ 301 by FOREO to help reduce inflammation and support circulation. “People often end up over-treating the scalp,” Watson explains. “Sometimes it needs calming and rebalancing rather than stronger actives.”

Of course, gut health is not the sole answer to female hair loss, nor does every woman experiencing shedding have underlying dysbiosis or inflammation. Genetics, hormones and medical conditions still matter enormously. And my hair loss is not ‘cured’ – recovery has been anything but linear. But this experience has fundamentally changed the way I understand hair loss. For years, I treated my hair as the problem. What I’m starting to realise is that it may simply have been one of the first visible signs that my body was struggling long before I was ready to listen.

The Marie Claire Approved Products To Help Calm Hair Loss

There are sensible purchases—the ones that score highly on cost per wear, functionality and practicality—and then there are those that make your heart beat a little bit faster (and your bank balance considerably lighter). This gift guide is dedicated to the latter.

This is for anyone in their ‘Life’s Too Short’ era, where the question of whether something is strictly necessary has become increasingly irrelevant and the focus is firmly on what makes her genuinely happy. Because sometimes, that’s reason enough.

From investment pieces she’ll treasure for decades to little luxuries with a healthy sense of humour, these gifts prove beautiful things don't always have to be particularly useful to be greatly appreciated.

Not every gift needs to trigger a call from your bank’s fraud department. In fact, some of the most satisfying presents are the ones that transform the otherwise unremarkable moments into something unexpectedly lovely.

Welcome to the ‘Tiny Treats, Big Wins’ era, where the emphasis is on the maximum enjoyment for minimal expenditure. Think beautiful little upgrades to things you already use, clever accessories that solve those mild daily irritations, and indulgences that don’t require a substantial financial commitment.

From elevated interior finds to beauty treats that punch way above their price tag, these are the gifts that prove thoughtful doesn’t have to mean expensive.

The Beauty Digest is my Beauty Director’s edit of what’s actually worth your attention. Each week, I’ll be sharing the new launches I’m using and loving, the viral treatments I’m putting to the test (and what I really think of the results), plus my take on the industry conversations everyone’s talking about.

The New Launches on My Radar

Spotlight On: The Beauty Beat

Luxury beauty hasn't always done a particularly good job of making everyone feel welcome. Donna Dia, a luxury events specialist, recognised this when she founded The Beauty Beat in 2022, creating a dedicated luxury beauty experience that puts Black women and women of colour firmly at the centre, rather than treating them as an afterthought.

Now in its fifth year, the festival returns to London's QEII Centre on Saturday 31st October and Sunday 1st November, bringing together some of the biggest names in beauty, including Fenty Beauty, NARS, MAC, Estée Lauder and Sephora, as well as masterclasses, expert discussions and appearances from Mel B, Sabrina Elba and Candice Brathwaite. But what makes The Beauty Beat particularly interesting isn't simply its impressive line-up. It's the attention paid to creating an experience where women of colour can expect genuine expertise, appropriate product offerings and the level of service that should have been standard all along. Get your tickets now.

Beauty Buzz: XERF

Everyone is talking about XERF. In over 15 years covering beauty, I can't remember an in-clinic treatment gaining this much traction, this quickly. The promises are certainly enticing: firmer, tighter skin, improved facial contours and minimal downtime, all without needles or surgery.

But from the outside, it sounds like another radiofrequency-based treatment, a technology used in aesthetic medicine for years. The difference seems to be that XERF uses dual-frequency monopolar radiofrequency energy to heat tissue at different depths, aiming to stimulate collagen remodelling and improve skin firmness. The technology may deliver energy differently, but does that translate into noticeably better results? And, crucially, is there robust clinical evidence to justify the excitement?

I'm intrigued, but not quite convinced. But this is Marie Claire, and in-depth testing is our mantra, so I've booked myself in to find out whether XERF is really the next big thing in aesthetics, or just radiofrequency with a really good marketing strategy. Watch this space for my full, unbridled review.

Like any theme dressing, creating a Halloween look is only ‘lame’ if you cheat and resort to a last-minute Amazon order. It’s the creativity that counts. And no one has more vision than nail artist Betina Goldstein. Stumbling into nail artistry while working in fashion production, the LA-based creative quickly built up a devoted following for her ultra-chic nail designs despite being largely self-taught, building a dedicated roster of clients including singer Rosé and actresses Julia Garner and Simone Ashley.

It wasn’t exactly a departure then, when she turned her steady hands from painting nails to creating what can only be described as wearable art. “Honestly, I was starting to get a little bored,” says Goldstein, who began experimenting by painting eyes, inspired by the fact that after her father passed away, she saw his eyes every time she closed her own. “It opened up a whole new creative direction for me, and I became fascinated with pushing the realism further and further.”

Nail art, of course, is not a new concept. There are many creatives working in the space whose work taps into true craftsmanship. But Goldstein has sculpted her own niche, quite literally. “I really enjoy exploring ways to make the art work with the nail itself—using its shape, contours, and dimensions as part of the design, rather than simply placing a large 3D element on top,” she explains.

And whilst sometimes that niche involves using real human hair to create a set of plaited nails or painstakingly creating a Tiger Cowrie shell, every October Goldstein’s most inventive ideas manifest as part of her love of Halloween costume creativity. “Sometimes I create them for brand collaborations and other times just for fun when an idea comes to me. I’ve also created custom nail sets for celebrity clients to complement a costume,” she says.

Her own costumes often give a nod to her profession, such as a particularly memorable ‘Death Becomes Her’ outing in 2021, where Goldstein used “a manicure mannequin hand coming out of my stomach, holding a real candelabra with remote-controlled, functional candles. The hand was attached to a piece of wood, which was then secured to my body using a waist-trainer corset. It definitely made a big impact at the party.”

The majority of the artist’s creations can be described as a “labour of love”, with Goldstein regularly spending up to 30 hours on just one set of 10 nails. But for those of us without her level of skill—or patience—she recommends starting with her OG favourite, cartoon eyeballs. “They’re super easy to make,” she promises, “just use dotting tools.”

Speaking of tools, what does she use to create her designs? “I paint with my own line of brushes called Doublemoss Arte, and for sculpting I use clay sculpting tools from a craft shop.” And the products in her kit all would-be nail pros should invest in? Navy Pro Tools manicure tools, CND Vinylux Gel-Like Effect top coat and Chanel Sublimage L’Extrait serum all get Goldstein’s polished thumbs up.

Fragrance has always possessed a somewhat intangible power. It can announce someone’s arrival, suggest the nuance of a person’s style, and become as recognisable a part of their identity as the clothes they wear. Perhaps most remarkably, it can transport us back in time, evoking a long-forgotten memory, a particular place or a person we once knew.

For decades, the ultimate goal was to find ‘the one’: a signature scent that captured the essence of who we were becoming, so synonymous with our identity that others would recognise us by it. But as the way we discover, buy and wear perfume evolves, so too does our relationship with the idea of being monogamous to one scent.

“I think fragrance is increasingly being developed around the experience people want to have, not simply the identity they want to project,” explains Kelly Reade, CEO of The Fragrance Foundation UK. “That doesn’t mean identity has disappeared; fragrance will always be deeply personal and incredibly emotional. But the conversation has broadened.”

How the Fragrance Wardrobe Took Over

The way we discover fragrance has changed almost as dramatically as the way we wear it. A 2026 Scento fragrance market report claims 46% of perfume purchases begin with TikTok, where fragrances are increasingly presented as part of a complete look or lifestyle, rather than a standalone product.

Crucially, this constant exposure to new fragrances encourages discovery and experimentation, rather than the lifelong loyalty once associated with finding a signature scent.

There’s also a clear age divide in perfume monogamy. According to Scento’s research, Gen Z perfume buyers own an average of 8-10 scents, whereas Baby Boomers (those born between 1946 and 1964) stick to three at most. “There is a surge of customers who also use fragrance as a way to express how they are feeling or who they want to be that day,” says Sophie Wayman, Category Director at Space NK. “That being said, we still see a huge number of our customers buying repeatedly into firm favourites from brands like Diptyque or Byredo.”

A Scent for Every Version of Yourself

“Fragrance has become much more like fashion. We don't wear the same outfit every day, so why should we wear the same scent? For me, that is one of the most exciting shifts in the category. It gives people permission to experiment, to play with different facets of their personality and to choose fragrance according to how they feel,” says Reade.

Of course, using fragrance to inhabit a different identity is hardly a new phenomenon. Award-winning perfumer Azzi Glasser has even created bespoke fragrances to help actors inhabit their characters. For Helena Bonham Carter’s portrayal of Bellatrix Lestrange in Harry Potter, she devised a scent combining narcotic florals, oud and vetiver—an olfactory extension of the character’s identity.

Fragrance as a Feeling

The shift is also changing what we expect fragrance to do for us. Rather than simply communicating something about our identity to others, we’re increasingly choosing perfumes for how they make us feel. “We are seeing scent explored through mood, memory, place and atmosphere. Think about the difference between choosing a perfume that feels like you and choosing a scent that makes you feel more confident, relaxed or energised. Both are powerful, but they serve different purposes,” says Reade.

Ex-luxury fashion buyer Yasmin Sewell launched Vyrao in 2021, a range of fragrances built around the relationship between scent and emotion. Fragrances such as Free 00 and the Sixth are positioned around feelings of sensuality, liberation and mindfulness, rather than a particular fragrance family.

Similarly, The Nue and Co. has developed fragrances intended to serve as sensory cues for different emotional stages, designed to be worn individually or layered. “I think people are giving fragrance a more personal role in their lives,” says Jules Miller, founder of Nue and Co. “Alongside ‘Does this smell like me?’ there’s another question: ‘How do I want to feel today?' That opens up so many possibilities for how we wear it.”

Maison Margiela’s Replica collection, a favourite among fashion insiders, takes a similarly experiential approach, with fragrances designed to evoke specific places and moments. When the Rain Stops recalls the freshness of the outdoors after a downpour, while Whispers in the Library conjures the atmosphere of an old library through warm, woody notes.

Beyond the Bottle

Our expanding fragrance wardrobes aren’t limited to traditional eaux de parfum, either. From scented hair mists, to body sprays and layering fragrances, there are increasingly more ways to incorporate scent into our daily routines.

Hairstylist Sam McKnight, for example, recently expanded his haircare collection with a dedicated hair fragrance, developed around the scent created with perfumer Lyn Harris. "Hair perfume creates a different experience to wearing fragrance on the skin,” says McKnight. “Hair moves with you throughout the day, so you catch subtle moments of scent as it moves around you, which feels incredibly personal.”

And perhaps that’s the real evolution of the signature scent. Rather than abandoning the idea of a fragrance that feels distinctly ours, we’re simply becoming less interested in being defined by just one. A signature scent might still exist—but increasingly, it belongs to a particular mood, moment or version of ourselves, rather than a lifetime.

Even as a beauty journalist, it’s becoming increasingly difficult to see beyond skincare’s savvy marketing and influencer endorsements to distinguish which products are actually going viral for their efficacy. That’s why I was so intrigued when I first heard about Volufiline, a cosmetic ingredient blend, gaining traction as a topical ‘replacement’ for filler.

If you believe the TikTok posts, topically applied Volufiline can dramatically plump skin and smooth wrinkles, similar to the effect of hyaluronic acid injections. Others claim the ingredient can help with orbital fat loss, or hollowing around the eyes, which typically occurs with age. Tear trough filler is often used to treat this, but it can be costly and not everyone is a suitable candidate, so the idea of Volufiline, which doesn’t require a needle and comes at a fraction of the price, is an intoxicating one.

But is it too good to be true? Can any topically applied ingredient really replace more invasive treatments? I spoke to some of Marie Claire’s most trusted consultant dermatologists and plastic surgeons to sort the claims from the clinical.

What is Volufiline and How Does it Work?

Volufiline is a cosmetic ingredient blend that combines a plant-derived extract with a skin-softening carrier, known as hydrogenated polyisobutene, explains Dr Nupur Patel, Board Certified Dermatologist. “The compound attracting attention is sarsasapogenin, which comes from the roots of a plant called Anemarrhena asphodeloides. Although the botanical name is a mouthful, the important part is understanding what the ingredient has actually been shown to do.”

In lab research carried out by volufiline’s manufacturer, sarsasapogenin has been shown to encourage “fat cells, called adipocytes, to develop and store more fat,” says Dr Patel. “The theory is that increasing that underlying cushioning could create a fuller appearance and a plumping effect that enhances volume and smoothness.”

Demonstrating an effect on fat cells in a laboratory however, is absolutely not proof that an ingredient will reproduce those results when applied to human skin. While preliminary research suggests sarsasapogenin may influence how fat cells develop and store lipids, there is insufficient clinical evidence to establish whether topical Volufiline can penetrate the dermis deeply enough to produce meaningful changes in facial volume.

Both Dr Patel and consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips stress that clinical evidence for the use of Volufiline on the face is limited. “One small study found a modest increase in volume after eight weeks of twice-daily use, although the results were not statistically significant,” clarifies Phillips. “More research is needed to establish whether Volufiline can produce noticeable results and how long these might take to appear.”

Can Volufiline Really Replace Filler?

According to dual board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon Dr Steven Pearlman, Volufiline is categorically not a replacement for filler. “I think it’s important to be straightforward about that,” he says firmly.

“Injectable fillers like hyaluronic acid work by physically adding volume beneath the skin at a precise depth and location, and the results are immediate and significant. Volufiline works at the surface level by gradually encouraging the skin’s own fat cells to expand, creating a mild plumping effect over [a period of] weeks to months. I would encourage realistic expectations.”

And while this theory of Volufiline gently motivating our fat cells is promising, remember that it has yet to be convincingly demonstrated in human facial skin. What’s more, the ingredient is often included in moisturising formulations, which can make skin look smoother and more cushioned, temporarily softening fine lines.

As a general rule of thumb, experts recommend trying the product for eight weeks to see if you notice a difference. “Results tend to be seen in areas where the skin is thinner and volume loss is mild, such as the under-eye area and cheeks,” says Dr Pearlman. “It is less effective in areas that require structural support, like deep nasolabial folds or significant mid-face hollowing, because those concerns are driven by tissue descent and bone resorption rather than just surface-level volume.”

The ingredient is best suited, adds Pearlman, to “individuals in their late 20s to 40s who are experiencing early, mild signs of volume loss and want to be proactive about maintaining fullness without jumping to injectables.” Or if you’re already using fillers and just want a topical product to support the results by providing temporary plumping and moisturisation.

One thing we do know: any results you do see will only be maintained through continued use. If you stop applying Volufiline, the plumping effect will gradually diminish as the stimulated fat cells return to their baseline.

How to Use Volufiline

If you’re shopping around for a good Volufiline formula, Dr Patel recommends opting for a “clearly labelled, ready-to-use formula from an identifiable brand, rather than an untraceable bottle of raw ingredients. The Ordinary Volufiline 92% + Pal-Isoleucine 1% would be my first consideration. I like the short ingredient list, the absence of added fragrance and the straightforward, ready-to-use format. It combines the Volufiline complex with 1% palmitoyl isoleucine, a supporting ingredient included for its skin-plumping positioning.”

Medicube has the PDRN Pink Collagen Volume Multi Balm to offer. “I would consider this for someone who prefers a balm and wants targeted moisturising care for dry-looking lines,” says Patel. “The stick format is convenient, and the formula combines Volufiline with a substantial emollient-and-wax base.” Tread carefully with this one if you have reactive skin or eyelid sensitivity though, as it also contains retinol and potentially irritating aromatic plant oils, including geranium, bergamot, and ylang-ylang.

Are There Any Risks or Side Effects?

Alongside those with reactive skin, Dr Patel advises caution if you are acne-prone, as most formulas incorporating Volufiline are oil-based. “I recommend reviewing the entire formula, and I would never encourage someone to keep purchasing it indefinitely because they are waiting for a filler-like transformation.” As always, she advises patients to patch test first, use only on unbroken skin, and to stop if irritation develops. For the eye area, choose a product specifically intended for that location and keep it out of the eyes.

The Beauty Digest is my Beauty Director’s edit of what’s actually worth your attention. Each week, I’ll be sharing the new launches I’m using and loving, the viral treatments I’m putting to the test (and what I really think of the results), plus my take on the industry conversations everyone’s talking about.

The New Launches on My Radar

Spotlight On: Jones Road Conceal & Correct

When Bobbi Brown first launched her concealer-and-corrector duo under her namesake brand back in the 90s, it helped cement her status as a household name in the beauty industry. So when the legendary makeup artist announced a 2.0 version under her second brand, Jones Road, I was keen to compare notes. The new Wide Awake duo includes the Brightening Neutralizer, designed to counteract the blue, purple and brown tones associated with dark circles, and the Brightening Concealer to add coverage and luminosity.

So, the all-important question: how does the duo compare to the original? Well, I think it's better. The formulas feel more substantial and less creamy, delivering greater coverage without the heaviness or cakiness you might expect. In fact, somewhat counterintuitively, they actually feel lighter on the skin than the originals. The result is impressive coverage that still looks remarkably like skin. Which is exactly why everyone loves Bobbi.

Beauty Buzz: The Accessorisation of Beauty

Not so long ago, beauty products were confined to our makeup bags, only surfacing for a touch-up in the club toilets or a surreptitious reapplication in the back of a cab. Now, they're taking centre stage as accessories in their own right.

Rhode arguably pioneered the phenomenon with its viral Lip Case, which quickly became a status symbol. Since then, the brand has expanded into collectable charms and carabiners, but the SS27 shows took things to another level. Dior Beauty has taken the concept decidedly upmarket with its new Médaillon Lip Balm, housed in an ornate, vintage-inspired compact that can be attached directly to your phone. Even Givenchy is getting in on the action, with its on-the-go powder compact belt medallions and lipstick hair accessories.

Of course, there's an element of novelty, but I suspect something more enduring is at play. Beauty has become another way of signalling personal taste, with products increasingly designed to be seen as much as used. And, as someone who has spent an infuriating amount of time rummaging around the bottom of her handbag for a lip balm, I can certainly see the appeal.

There is no shortage of beauty brands vying for our attention. Between the seemingly endless stream of celebrity launches, viral TikTok discoveries and increasingly elaborate skincare routines, you’d be forgiven for thinking we’ve reached peak beauty. Do we really need another serum? Another fragrance brand? Another product promising to revolutionise something we’ve been doing perfectly well for decades?

Well, occasionally, the answer is yes. Because every so often, a brand comes along that offers something that’s actually innovative. It could be as simple as solving an everyday frustration, bringing a fresh outlook to a familiar category, or, sometimes, a product that makes you wonder why no one thought of it before.

Finding these brands, however, is becoming something of an art form. With so much noise surrounding new launches, separating true innovation from clever marketing tactics isn’t always easy. And while a viral moment might generate thousands of sales, it doesn’t necessarily make for a brilliant product—or a business with any real staying power.

It’s something I was particularly interested in discussing with Catherine Spindler, President of Sephora Europe and the Middle East, ahead of SEPHORiA’s London debut. After all, few retailers have quite the same vantage point when it comes to identifying the brands that might become tomorrow’s household names.

“The beauty market is undoubtedly more competitive than ever,” she tells me. “The challenge for brands is to offer something genuinely meaningful in a crowded landscape. Virality can be an incredibly powerful introduction to a brand, and social media has transformed how quickly new products and founders can reach consumers. But awareness and long-term success are not the same thing.”

Instead, she points to repeat purchases, consistent product performance and the ability to innovate beyond an initial hero product as more meaningful indicators of longevity.

“We are seeing innovation across several areas, from advanced technologies that help us better understand individual skin needs to next-generation ingredients, new beauty rituals and a more holistic approach to self-care.”

Which brings me to three particularly interesting names: Substance of Light, French Cowboy and Omad’s. All relatively young European businesses, all approaching established beauty categories from rather different angles, and all recently recognised at the inaugural Sephora Prize, selected from 150 applicants.

Here is why they’re worth having on your radar.

Substance of Light: The SPF Brand Tackling One of Skincare’s Most Enduring Problems

If there’s one skincare mantra we’ve all heard a million times, it’s to wear SPF every day. And to reapply it throughout the day. The trouble is that while the advice is perfectly reasonable, the practicalities are somewhat less appealing, particularly if you’re wearing a full face of makeup.

The French brand Substance of Light is trying to solve this problem. Founded in 2021 by Clara Nentille, the brand approaches sun protection as something that needs to fit seamlessly into everyday life, rather than requiring us to pivot our routines around it.

Its formulations combine high UV protection with skincare benefits and an emphasis on texture, but the product that really caught my attention is its spray format, designed to be reapplied over makeup, while offering adequate protection.

It’s not attempting to reinvent the entire concept of sun protection. But it identifies the gap between what consumers know they should be doing and what they realistically do. And that, arguably, is where some of the most useful beauty innovation happens.

The brand took first place at the Sephora Prize, securing three years of mentoring and development support. But the underlying idea, not the accolade, makes it one to watch.

French Cowboy: A Different Kind of Niche Fragrance House

Niche perfumery has undergone something of a transformation in recent years. Once the preserve of dedicated fragrance devotees and prohibitively expensive boutiques, independent perfume houses have become increasingly prominent in mainstream beauty culture.

But with so many new fragrance brands entering the market, the definition of niche has become a little more complicated. An edgy bottle and a quirky description of sandalwood aren’t necessarily enough to make a fragrance interesting.

French Cowboy, founded in 2025 by Ashley Santiago and Adrien Ollat, takes a slightly different approach, aiming to make haute parfumerie more accessible by creating scents in collaboration with personalities from the contemporary creative world. Take their Vanilla For Breakfast Eau de Parfum, created in collaboration with Mia Fall, a Paris-based French beauty influencer and academic specialising in artificial intelligence, big data and robotics. She’s a self-confessed vanilla maximalist, and the fragrance features four different vanillas, each chosen for the face its extraction method reveals to create the fragrance Fall always wished existed.

Omad’s: The Haircare Brand Bringing a Family Beauty Secret Into the Modern Age

Founded in Belgium in 2021 by Zoé Jadot and Julien Dupont, Omad’s takes its inspiration from a homemade haircare recipe passed down by a grandmother. Its sole focus? Products designed to gradually and naturally brighten blonde hair at home.

The appeal is easy to understand. For anyone who wants to maintain or subtly boost their blonde hair without committing to a dramatic colour transformation, the prospect of gradual brightening is an attractive one.

And in an industry where more products, more steps and more complicated routines are frequently presented as progress, this hyper-focused approach feels remarkably refreshing.

Over the past couple of years, the beauty world has seen a blusher boom, with bold shades trending and high-flush blush everywhere. The trend culminated in what social media dubbed ‘blush blindness’: people overloading cheeks with bright pinks and bold corals in almost clown-like fashion. As a result, a new movement, the anti-blusher trend, is emerging.

We asked some of Marie Claire’s favourite makeup artists to explain the trend, its long-term appeal, and the anti-blush buys to shop now.

What is the ‘Anti-Blush’ Trend, Exactly?

Contrary to its name, anti-blush still actually involves blush. You didn’t really think it would be that easy, did you? “It isn’t about abandoning blush at all; it’s moving away from highly saturated shades, the obvious pinks and corals, and choosing colours that feel much closer to the natural tones within the skin,” says makeup artist Lisa Caldognetto. “The finish is so much more understated—so you’re not noticing this immediate pop of colour of blush that we’ve typically seen. It’s softly-defined, really healthy and pulled together. It’s almost a blush, bronzer and contour all merged into one.”

The term blew up when creator Kim Senser made a video calling MAC’s Skinfinish Coloustruck Blush in Film Noir Buff ‘the anti-blush’. She tells Marie Claire she describes the trend as “the opposite of what I had been seeing for blush. Instead of that bright pink, or reddish blush, it feels muted, neutral and naturally skin-like. I have always loved the ‘no-makeup’ look.”

Makeup artist Adeola Gboyega describes it as “sitting somewhere between blush and bronzer. You’re still bringing warmth and colour into the complexion, but it doesn’t necessarily look like an obvious, traditional blush.”

And there’s an important distinction, adds Gboyega: “Anti-blush doesn’t have to mean cool, taupe or completely neutral. It can definitely have warmth to it—think bronzed rose, terracotta, caramel, brick red, raisin or warm brown tones. It’s more about choosing colours that feel like they melt into the complexion, rather than sitting on top of the skin as a really obvious pop of pink or peach. It gives you that barely-there blush effect. You can see warmth and dimension in the face, but you might not immediately look at it and think, ‘she’s wearing blush’.”

Though a trending term now, this technique has been around for a long time, says Gboyega. “What I find really interesting about this trend, both as a makeup artist and as a Black woman, is that this way of using colour on the cheeks really isn’t new,” she says. “Women with deeper skin tones have been doing versions of this for years, we just didn’t have the anti-blush terminology attached to it.”

Often, women of colour often did not have the luxury of choice, explains Gboyega, as there weren’t as many blushers made with deeper complexions in mind. Black women therefore almost created their own versions of blush. “We would look beyond what was traditionally being marketed as blush and choose shades we knew would bring warmth, dimension and life back into our skin. Shades like MAC’s original Raizin blush became staples for Black women because they had enough depth and richness to actually show up beautifully on deeper skin tones, while giving that warm, almost bronzed flush that we’re now seeing described as anti-blush.”

How to Choose an Anti-Blush Shade

While some beauty trends are best left as TikTok filters, this particular look can be adapted to you, making it worth transferring from screen to real life. “Anti-blush isn’t one specific colour; it should look different depending on your complexion,” instructs Gboyega. “The key is choosing a shade with the right level of depth and warmth for your skin rather than just looking for something that’s labelled neutral.

“For pale to light complexions, I’d look at soft beige-pinks, muted rose, caramel and lighter terracotta tones, while for light-medium to medium skin tones, slightly richer caramel, warm rose, terracotta and bronzed shades work really well,” she recommends. “For medium-deep to deep complexions, you want enough richness and pigment so the colour doesn’t disappear into the skin. This is where burnt rose, deeper terracotta, raisin, chocolate and red-brown shades really come into their own.”

The main thing to remember is not to overthink it. Don’t “get too caught up in finding a product specifically marketed as an anti-blush,” advises Gboyega. “Look at how the shade actually behaves on your complexion. It could be caramel, terracotta, bronzed rose, raisin, warm brown or muted red. You’re looking for something that brings warmth and colour into the face without reading as an obvious traditional blush.”

Convinced? These anti-blush shades come highly recommended by our pros.

The Best Products for an Anti-Blush Look

“Hair is everything,” declared Fleabag’s Claire after emerging from the salon with an asymmetric crop that made her resemble a pencil. And she had a point. Hair is inextricably linked to how we look and feel, with the power to bolster our confidence or undermine it entirely. There’s a reason the proverbial “bad hair day” has become shorthand for a day when nothing seems to go quite right. A bad hair day is no longer simply a case of unruly strands or an uncooperative style. Now, our standards are higher and we're scrutinising everything from texture and condition to split ends and that all-important density.

Our algorithms have picked up on this. According to Healio, a study of 156 hair loss videos across YouTube, TikTok and Instagram searched in December 2025 alone found an average of 445,415 views per video. And in a UK Hair Confidence Report from this year, 46% of British women are too embarrassed to discuss hair shedding with their GP. We’re all thinking about it.

So, the big question: are we actually losing more hair than before? Is it a not-so-silent epidemic, coupled with the constant reels that find their way onto our feed? The way we talk about our health has changed, with an open discourse around GLP-1 usage, hormonal changes, menopause, stress and anxiety; a direct by-product of these conversations are the symptoms that emerge from this and how we try to sustain some kind of damage control there.

Are We Losing More Hair Than Ever?

Yes, and no. “There are several reasons women can experience hair thinning and shedding, but the growing use of GLP-1 medications is an emerging factor. I have seen hair loss in some people taking these medications, and there have also been many reports of it online. GLP-1 drugs themselves aren't thought to directly cause hair loss; rather, rapid weight loss can put the body under stress and nutritional deficiencies can also play a role. As their use becomes more widespread, I expect we will see more discussion around hair shedding in this context.” Says Anabel Kingsley, Lead Trichologist and Author of Haircare: The Ultimate Guide.

But not everyone is taking a GLP-1 drug, and online searches for hair growth drugs and scalp treatments are surging, suggesting growing interest in hair health. According to a report from GrandView research, the global hair loss treatment market is projected to be worth $93.9 billion this year. And according to the National Council on Aging, global hair loss treatments are said to be worth £4.8 billion in the UK by 2034. Meanwhile, the beauty market's hair health sector has grown by 32%, according to a study from Cosmetic Business.

This may have once been a concern that began with women who were hitting perimenopause or experiencing broader health issues; hair thinning is now among the top concerns for those in their 20s as well. Clinical data at the Belgravia Centre (a private treatment facility that specialises in hair loss treatment) has seen an exponential rise in hair loss awareness and early-stage thinning, with the demographic growing within the 21- 30-year-old age group.

Lifestyle and health factors have a major impact on the rate of hair loss: post-partum hair loss, stress and burnout, bad nutrition, and multiple conditions like Polyendocrine Metabolic Ovarian Syndrome (PMOS), diabetes and thyroid issues.

The boom in the category may also reflect shifting attitudes across the beauty sector, away from quick fixes and toward prevention. “There’s a lot more research going into understanding the biology of the hair and scalp…moving towards a much more preventative approach to haircare, looking after the scalp and the hair we have, rather than only reacting once we notice significant thinning.” Says trichologist Rachel Valentine.

What is 'Normal' Hair Loss

With more of us aware of hair density than ever, awareness is up, leaving many to wonder whether any level of hair loss is normal. “It’s important to distinguish between hair thinning and excessive hair shedding, as they are not necessarily the same thing," explains Kingsley. "A healthy amount of hair shedding is usually around 100 to 150 hairs per day. This happens because about 10% of your hair is normally in a resting or shedding phase at any given time, while the rest is actively growing."

Simple lifestyle changes like keeping ponytails loose rather than tight and close to the scalp, caring for your scalp, and stepping away from over-styling can make a huge difference to how much hair you lose. Washing too frequently is another no-no, and being gentle when brushing goes a long way. Tangle Teezer is still a favourite among hair stylists and trichologists for its malleable, bendy bristles.

What Can You Do to Increase Hair Density?

Medications like Minoxidil (the active ingredient in Regaine) and Finasteride can increase hair density, though long-term use can cause side effects. Plus, the beauty industry is moving toward a more holistic approach.

Brands like K18 and the recently launched Cécred are leading the way with a 360-degree approach to hair longevity, rather than simply enhancing hair growth. “Medical doctors, particularly dermatologists, often recommend products containing ingredients like minoxidil or finasteride for hair growth. These treatments are backed by clinical research and work by stimulating the hair follicles and slowing hair loss,” says Dr Kari Williams, Trichologist and Director of Education at Cécred.

Hero products from Cécred include formulas to strengthen and nourish hair growth. “The Restoring Hair & Edge Drops contain Biopeptide-5 technology, a blend of 5 growth factor peptides that nourish and strengthen hair...” adds Williams.

Meanwhile, K18’s now-cult product, Future IQ Longevity Serum ran clinical studies with subjects applying the product daily over a 3-month period who found that there were considerably fewer greys and up to 19000 hairs retained for more volume. Both K18 and Cécred use peptides to boost growth by mimicking the body’s natural ability to produce hair follicles and maintain healthy scalp health.

The Pillars of Good Hair Care

The four major pillars of good hair care are: scalp health, the condition of the hair, nutrition and general health. “Your scalp is skin and part of the body’s largest organ, so regular cleansing is important for maintaining a healthy scalp environment.” Says Kingsley.

When it comes to nutrition, a well-balanced diet should be the primary source but there are supplements that can help too. “A good example is biotin. Biotin is an essential nutrient and is involved in normal hair health, but genuine biotin deficiency is relatively uncommon in people eating a varied diet. So, taking a biotin supplement isn’t automatically going to make your hair grow more, particularly if you’re already getting enough through your diet. I think we need to move away from the idea that there’s one miracle solution or one product that’s going to solve everyone’s hair concerns. “adds Rachel Valentine.

When it comes to general health, “Stress can have a significant impact on the hair growth cycle, so good sleep, regular exercise and finding ways to manage stress are all important” says Kingsley.

Finally, good hair condition means reducing heat styling, using conditioning treatments, using bond-restorative oils if needed, and using damage-protecting sprays.

So maybe hair loss isn't on the rise, but just as skincare and makeup are shifting toward a more preventative, longevity-focused approach, the scalp and hair-growth market is, too.

The Products to Invest In

By the time October rolls around, my desk has usually disappeared under a tower of beauty advent calendars. This year I had my pick of 27 of them, and I’ll be honest—the standard has never been higher. There are so many brilliant calendars on the market right now, packed with genuinely practical inclusions: the cleansers, mascaras and moisturisers you’ll actually reach for every day long after the last door has been opened.

So when it came to choosing the one calendar I’d take home for myself, you’d probably assume I’d go for the most valuable, the one with the most full-size products or the one with the biggest luxury names. Liberty’s calendar ticks all of those boxes—but none of them is the reason it came home with me.

The real reason? Discovery.

As a beauty editor, I’m lucky enough to have access to—and a fairly encyclopaedic knowledge of—the coolest, nichest, most up-and-coming brands out there. New launches land in my inbox before they hit shelves, and it takes a lot to surprise me. Most calendars, however good, are full of products I already know inside out.

Liberty’s is different. Year after year, it manages to introduce me to brands and products I didn’t know I needed, and more often than not, a few of them become permanent fixtures in my routine. For someone who sees almost everything, that’s the most exciting thing a calendar can offer—and this year, it delivered some new all-time favourite staples.

My Top Picks From This Year’s Liberty Beauty Advent Calendar

Above everything though, if there's one thing that drew me to this calendar, it's the fragrance discovery. Liberty’s fragrance edit has always been a brilliant way to explore niche perfume houses, and this year it really delivers, featuring eight different scents.

Ex Nihilo’s Blue Talisman and Fugazzi’s Angel Dust were my personal highlights, but I genuinely enjoyed every scent in the line-up. Better still, they’re the perfect size for popping in your handbag, so they double up as travel perfumes—ideal for topping up on the go or taking away for the weekend without packing a full bottle.

Then there’s the full-size count. Of the 29 products inside, 21 are full-size—that’s nearly three-quarters of the calendar. That matters for discovery, too: a full size means you can properly work a new product into your routine and see what it does for you, rather than getting a couple of uses out of a sachet and forgetting about it.

It also puts Liberty firmly among the best-value calendars on the market this year. Space NK’s bestselling calendar contains 26 full-size products out of 35, a near-identical proportion, while Harrods’ calendar also offers 21 full-size products. Meanwhile, the Lookfantastic Beauty Advent Calendar—one of the bestselling calendars every year—features fewer than 20 full-size products, so Liberty comfortably edges ahead there.

The box itself is a thing of beauty in its own right. Shaped like the facade of Liberty’s iconic mock-Tudor flagship store, it’s decorated with delicate ink illustrations by artist Clym Evernden that bring the shop to life in all its festive glory, and behind the doors are 25 Liberty-print drawers. This year marks Evernden’s fourth and final calendar for Liberty, which makes this edition a real collector’s piece—and with a new artist set to take over in 2027, it’s one I’ll be keeping long after the drawers are empty.

And there’s one more extra I didn’t expect to love quite as much as I do: the calendar comes in a gorgeous, sturdy cloth drawstring bag in a festive Liberty print. It’s perfect for lugging gifts to and from Christmas parties and family get-togethers—or, if you’re travelling over the festive season, it makes a brilliant laundry bag to stash in your suitcase.

At £285, with over £1,300 worth of products inside, an impressive number of full sizes, a line-up of luxury names and packaging you’ll want to keep, the Liberty Beauty Advent Calendar would be a strong contender on value alone. But that’s not why it came home with me. Of the 27 calendars I had my pick of, Liberty’s was the only one that genuinely surprised me—and the one that’s changed what’s on my bathroom shelf. If you love finding your next favourite brand before everyone else, this is the calendar to choose.

Spoiler alert: Here’s Everything You Will Find In This Year’s Liberty Beauty Advent Calendar

• Reome Active Recovery Broth 15ml
• Ex Nihilo Blue Talisman Extrait 7.5ml
• Fugazzi Angel Dust Extrait 15ml
• Sunday Riley C.E.O. 15% Vitamin C Brightening Serum 30ml - Full Size
• Davines OI Shampoo 90ml - Full Size
• Lisa Eldridge Baume Embrace Melting Lip Colour in 'Épanoui' - Full Size
• Zelens Emulsion D Fortifying Moisturiser 50ml - Full Size
• Innersense Repair Mask 59.1ml - Full Size
• Joonbyrd Violet Haze Polishing Body Scrub 30ml - Full Size
• MZ Skin Intensive Bio-Placenta Eye Cream 15ml - Full Size
• Trinny London Eye2Eye in 'Joy' or 'Magician' 4g - Full Size
• ILIA Beauty Limitless Lash Mascara in 'After Midnight' 8g - Full Size
• Maria Nila Gloss Coat 50ml - Full Size
• U Beauty Resurfacing Compound 15ml - Full Size
• Verden Nocturne Magnesium Body Spray 60ml - Full Size
• Grown Alchemist Regenerating Hand Cream 40ml - Full Size
• Violette_FR Lip Nectar in 'Bêtise' 3.5g - Full Size
• Sisley Paris Sisleÿa Essential Skin Care Lotion 100ml - Full Size
• Votary Luminous Skin Liquid 30ml - Full Size
• Augustinus Bader The Face Oil 10ml
• Vyrao Ever 11 Eau de Parfum 10ml
• LBTY Tana Meadow Eau de Parfum 8ml
• Matière Première Crystal Saffron Eau de Parfum 6ml
• Charlotte Mensah Manketti Oil Finishing Mist 30ml
• Darling Multi-Biotics Hydrating & Balancing Body Lotion 30ml
• Bibbi Parfum Vanilla Factory Eau de Parfum 10ml
• Jones Road Mini Miracle Balm 8.5g
• Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 10ml
• D.S. & Durga Debaser Eau de Parfum 7.5ml
• Liberty Liberty Print Large Drawstring Bag in 'Festive Plume'

Earlier this year, Dyson caused a huge stir with the launch of their CameraJet toothbrush. Priced at £419, it features a built-in camera and water jet for a more precise clean, using Gap Optical Targeting to target missed interdental spaces and remove plaque as you brush. So, a toothbrush and flosser in one, just far more powerful.

And of course, the internet had a lot to say. Many people questioned whether they were really ready to pay upwards of £400 for a toothbrush and whether they really wanted a camera inside their mouth—the jury is still out on that one.

Most people complained about the price tag, but Dyson’s offering isn't even the most expensive electric toothbrush on the market. Oral-B iO10 electric toothbrush comes in at a whopping £800. All this discourse raises a bigger question: when did investing in your oral health become so so expensive?

We’re living in a time where the pursuit of health, wellness and longevity—whatever you want to call it—seems to have no upper spending limit. Cold plunges, glucose monitors, health retreats, longevity supplements, peptide injections, hyperbaric chambers, and now oral care are all being optimised, and at a hefty price tag. And as someone who, in the name of journalism, has taken on a few practices, the bill at the end is certainly big.

Oral health isn't just about preventing cavities or keeping your breath fresh. Research has found it’s closely linked to our overall health, with studies linking poor oral health with cardiovascular disease and even certain cancers. It’s easy to see why gum health has become wellness’s latest target. Unsurprisingly, it appeals to people willing to drop serious money on their health, a group larger than you might think.

I’ve used a Spotlight Oral Care electric toothbrush for years and, my dentist and I agree, my teeth have never been in better condition. Once you go electric, there is no going back and all that. I definitely couldn’t, and I’m not alone. According to the Adult Oral Health Survey, 59% of adults in England use an electric toothbrush. But is there room to do more? Will a £400 super-toothbrush deliver better results? I suppose that’s what the longevity industry taps into: this intrigue, this idea that there’s always more we could be doing, and the pressure to do it for our health.

According to Niamh Turney, Senior Commercial Manager for Oral Care at Dyson, the answer is yes.“Most other toothbrushes just brush and miss the gaps between teeth. Many people then do not floss afterwards. Dyson CameraJet integrates flossing into the everyday brushing routine by using a camera to automatically detect and target gaps between teeth as you brush. It’s engineered to support overall oral health,” she explains.

I’m not even going to pretend I’m not intrigued. If there’s one thing Dyson has built a reputation for, it’s innovation. But do all those high-tech features actually make a real difference?

Dr Krystyn Wilczyński, cosmetic dentist, isn’t convinced. “You really don’t need to spend £300 to get an excellent clean. Once you have a good-quality electric toothbrush with an effective cleaning action, a pressure sensor and a two-minute timer, you’ve covered the features that matter most to me as a dentist,” she tells us.

Which is an important and refreshing reminder when it’s so easy to get swept up in the idea that more expensive automatically means better. Dr Deepak Aulak, founder of Tooth Fairy, argues that it always comes back to the basics. “A more expensive toothbrush won’t fix poor brushing. Brushing for two minutes twice a day, cleaning along the gum line and using the right pressure matters far more than the price tag. That said, a good electric toothbrush does make those habits easier. The best toothbrush is the one that suits your mouth and your needs.” He adds, “Anything above around £150, you’re often paying for features most people simply won’t use.” I suppose that’s the key takeaway. Find a toothbrush that does what you need it to do.

It feels strange to debate whether a toothbrush is worth more than £400 when millions of people across the UK struggle to access NHS dental care. Government figures show that 60% of adults in England had not seen an NHS dentist over the previous two years, and oral health inequality continues to grow. You can even see that divide in electric toothbrush ownership: 47% of people in the lowest-income households use one, compared with 76% in the highest-income households.

Younger consumers, however, are embracing oral care for more aesthetic reasons. The goal of whiter and straighter teeth, brighter and picture-perfect smiles and easier access to oral cosmetic procedures have pushed oral care from a simple health habit into a beauty step.

So it’s no surprise that brands are responding by turning toothbrushes into sleek wellness technology, pushing the idea that toothbrushes—and even toothpaste—should do much more than simply clean your teeth. Whether that’s leaning into the beauty side or the longevity side.

It will be interesting to see how Dyson’s launch changes the category. Will toothbrushes become even smarter? Will they lean further into wellness? Or will they simply become another luxury gadget promising to optimise a routine that’s already straightforward?

So, how much is too much to spend on a toothbrush? That really depends on what you want from it. Innovation can be genuinely useful, whether that’s better battery life, more sustainable materials or features that encourage better brushing habits.

But no matter how smart the technology becomes, it always comes back to the fundamentals, which, as boring as it may seem, remain simple: brush properly, floss regularly and see your dentist when you should. The extras are, well, extras but also very nice if it’s in your budget.

The Best Toothbrushes for All Budgets

When looking for your next fragrance obsession, you're probably accustomed to sticking to familiar fragrance families or beelining for a brand you know you love. But what if your perfume preferences have less to do with whether you favour florals or woody notes, and more to do with who you are?

After all, fragrance is deeply personal, shaped by our memories, tastes, habits and the way we see ourselves. Whether you're a reformed minimalist embracing a little excess, a recovering wellness obsessive or someone who takes pride in discovering things before everyone else, there's a scent to match.

Take our quiz to discover your perfume personality—and the fragrances that might feel just like you.

Discover Your Perfume Personality

The Tastefully Unhinged

You know your rising sign, have paid someone to clear the energy in your house and can talk quite seriously about manifestation without ever sounding remotely woo-woo. Your wardrobe is an artful collision of Roksanda, vintage Westwood and something you found on a beachside stall in Goa; your bathroom contains a gua sha, Vintner’s Daughter and at least one object whose purpose is energetic rather than cosmetic.

You’re ten minutes late to everything but remember every birthday, give excellent presents and are the first person your friends call in a crisis. You trust your intuition, have made at least one major life decision based entirely on a feeling and will try almost any unconventional therapy once.

Your fragrance taste is similarly esoteric but polished: incense, resins, sacred woods and aromatic botanicals that smell more Dover Street Market than crystal shop.

The Curated Underachiever

You haven’t lost your drive; you’ve just grown suspicious of anything that requires you to wake up before 6 a.m. You’ve stopped measuring a good day by how many things you ticked off your to-do list and started measuring it by whether you had time to lie down.

You’ve discovered that cancelling plans can feel as satisfying as making them, and increasingly prefer to enjoy your luxuries horizontally: excellent sheets, room service, a hot bath.

Accordingly, you want your perfume to provide the olfactory equivalent of being tucked in: rice, milk, almond, vanilla, tonka and soft woods—gourmand, but never cupcake.

The Post-Wellness Woman

You’ve taken all the supplements, worn the sleep tracker, done the adaptogens and spent an unholy amount on green juices. You know what spikes your cortisol and blood sugar and, increasingly, wish you didn’t.

These days, you’re more inclined to take off the tracker and go for an old-fashioned walk, eat something because you fancy it rather than because it contains 30 grams of protein, and go to bed when you’re tired without asking an app how well you slept. You haven’t abandoned wellness; you’ve just stopped treating your body like a problem to solve.

Your fragrance follows suit: green, herbal and alive, with crushed leaves, bitter citrus, herbs, moss and vetiver. Less biohack, more fresh air.

The Anti-Algorithm Intellectual

You still discover books in bookshops, restaurants by walking past them and music at festivals. You don’t want everything you buy to come with a side of “you might also like”. You’re not a Luddite—you simply miss the pleasure of finding something organically without being funnelled towards it by the algorithm.

Your fragrance taste follows the same logic: you’re drawn to unusual notes, unexpected combinations and perfumes that aren’t immediately easy to place. Maybe that’s paper, ink and old bindings; perhaps it’s black tea, mineral notes, bitter herbs, smoke or something altogether stranger.

The Reformed Minimalist

You’ve spent the last decade cleansing your life of clutter—and inadvertently removed all trace of colour from your wardrobe, every throw cushion from your bed and most appliances from your kitchen worktops.

At some point, surrounded by limewashed walls devoid of personality, you began to wonder whether all that restraint had become rather suffocating. You’ve still got great taste; but now you’re remembering that good taste doesn’t always have to be so quiet.

Perfume is the gateway drug: tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom and ylang-ylang, worn at a volume that would have horrified you not long ago.

In case you’ve not had the pleasure: a VISIA machine is a facial imaging and skin analysis used by aesthetic clinics and skincare brands to give you a digital reading of your skin. You sit in front of a monitor and a camera takes terrifyingly close-up, bare-faced images of you, mapping things like wrinkles and sun damage. But it also offers another, more insidious metric: it compares your results against a massive global database, ranking your appearance relative to others of the same age, gender and skin type. A score of 80% means you have fewer wrinkles, spots and visible pores than 80% of the others in your group.

Of course, this is the bit everyone really wants to know. Not just ‘how does my skin look?’, but: how does it look for my age? How do I compare with thousands of other people the same age as me? Am I ageing better? Am I looking younger? And am I therefore, somehow, winning at life?

Judging by appearances, ageing well, and attempting to beat the odds of ageing is a game many of us are winning. For the past few decades, since the ‘tweakment’ revolution, the bar for what your chronological age ‘looks like’ has been moving ever higher. Earlier this year, there was a viral trend pointing out the difference in appearance of Blanche Devereaux, the 53-year-old character in US sitcom The Golden Girls (played by actress Rue McClanahan, who was 51 when season 1 was filmed in 1985), and celebrities in their fifties now, including Gwyneth Paltrow (54) and Jennifer Lopez (57). The Golden Girls looked like glamorous grannies. Gwyneth and J-Lo look more like their granddaughters.

In August, Nicole Kidman and Sandra Bullock appeared on the red carpet for Practical Magic 2, looking only marginally different from how they did in the original 1998 movie. Come September, it was 56-year-old Rachel Weisz’s turn, looking radiant as she was photographed filming a sequel to The Mummy, 27 years after the original.

Of course, all these women do look older. Whatever you do to preserve your youth from your thirties onwards, there’s no getting away from the decline in collagen or the difference in natural glow. But among many of these Hollywood actresses, there’s a striking, almost shocking absence of any of the traditional markers of ageing: the lines and wrinkles, the drooping eyelids, the sagging jawline. Now, foreheads are creaseless. Jawlines are taut. Complexions radiate such natural-looking luminosity that it’s impossible to tell whether it’s achieved by good makeup or good genes. The fact is, there’s so much you can do to protect against ageing now that each successive decade has undergone a radical reinvention, reframing our definition of what someone in their thirties, forties or fifties looks like.

When I started out as a beauty editor 25 years ago, the accepted wisdom from the skincare companies was that you’d start to see fine lines and wrinkles from your thirties. Loss of volume really started with perimenopause, in your forties, and deep wrinkles—the sort you can’t treat with creams alone—started to form in your fifties. Now, there’s a 20-year shift in the baseline. The lines and wrinkles don’t necessarily appear until your late 40s or 50s. You can be in your 60s now and still have plumped, glowing skin.

So how has this ‘baseline creep’ happened? When did 60 become the new 30? When did neanimorphic (the technical term for looking significantly younger than one’s chronological age) become so commonplace? It’s mostly the result of aesthetic treatments, yes, which will arguably make the fastest and most radical difference to your appearance. But alongside the tweakments, the wholesale adoption of daily SPF by skincare enthusiasts has definitely helped, as has the increased availability of over-the-counter Retinoids—topical vitamin A ingredients which are still acknowledged by dermatologists as the ‘gold standard’ for anti-ageing.

Starting early is also helping. Jennifer Lawrence recently said she has started her “Retinol journey” in earnest, and Hailey Bieber has discussed her interest in longevity science and the use of NAD+ treatments, saying during an episode of The Kardashians, “I’m going to NAD for the rest of my life, and I’m never going to age.” Last year, aged 42, the comedian Katherine Ryan had a full facelift, explaining that after multiple pregnancies, she felt her face had changed and it was “dissociative,” saying she just wanted to look the way she did pre-pregnancy.

One of the striking things about the new pursuit of decade-defying youth is the enthusiasm with which so many of these women now embrace it. Notable exceptions notwithstanding—such as Kate Winslet and Jamie Lee Curtis, who combat the tyranny of the anti-ageing lobby and present themselves without Botox and fillers and sometimes even without makeup—one of the biggest shifts in our post-tweakment culture is how much so many of us seem to be enjoying the journey. Perhaps it’s because of how much difference you can really make now—with impressive, clinically-proven products and natural-looking aesthetic procedures, it doesn’t feel, as it perhaps once did, that you are fighting a losing battle. Maybe it’s because of the way skincare has merged with self-care, so that elaborate and expensive treatments and routines feel indulgent rather than effortful. Maybe it’s because beauty has become a playground now, with stores like Space NK and Sephora transforming the act of beauty shopping, hitherto both an onslaught for the senses and an exercise in self-doubt, into more positive and even affirming experiences.

But even so: what if you’re someone who doesn’t want to put the work in? What if you don’t see the need, or you don’t have the time, or the income? Are there now two faces of each decade, the ‘old’ one, with the burgeoning signs of ageing you’d hitherto have expected as part and parcel of living your life—and the ‘new’ one, throwing the kitchen sink at ageing and looking far more youthful as a result? Is it now the case that simply by doing nothing, you look far older than your contemporary counterparts?

It seems to me that probably, the answer is yes. But as so often in life, maybe doing nothing is in itself an act of rebellion. All of this effort begs the age-old question: if you’re so busy prioritising the endless slog of lowering the baseline, what are you missing out on? And could those other things—the late night with friends, the ill-advised extra glass of wine, the family-sized box of Maltesers—be things that make you happy, and could happiness—whisper it—be an anti-ageing secret all of its own?

Platforms like Substack are awash with stories of midlife reinvention—of women, predominantly, who are fashioning a ‘second act’ for themselves; one in which they stop being people-pleasers and embrace a newfound freedom afforded by the double-whammy of fewer familial responsibilities and fewer fucks given. They are newly curious, newly confident, and ready for change. This is anti-ageing of a different kind; but one which, I believe, can also show on your face.

When the VISIA machine told me I looked seven years older than its cohort of women my age, a friend (to whom I was wailing inconsolably) said: “but the machine doesn’t know you. The machine doesn’t know what’s on the inside.” And she was right. The baseline, wherever it is, and wherever it ends up, is just one measure of age. Falling above it is not failing. It’s chronology. The Golden Girls may have looked older, but they had a great time doing it.

I’ll admit, I’m a self-confessed perfume snob—and I’m very particular about the type of fragrances I wear. I like to smell elegant, understated and expensive, which usually means something nuanced, beautifully balanced and difficult to immediately decipher.

So, when a makeup brand branches into fragrance, I’m always sceptical. To me, it can often feel like a commercial play to drive sales rather than an exercise in olfactory exploration and genuine brand enrichment. However, Merit’s first fragrance, Retrospect, was one of the few exceptions to this rule. Despite ultimately being a skin scent, it is incredibly complex and nuanced, opening with a burst of bergamot, pear and ambrette before settling into something softer, muskier and more lived-in. It’s also incredibly good value for the quality, with 30% fragrance oil and a price tag of £72.

Today, Merit revealed its second fragrance: New Wave. Ordinarily, I wouldn’t be rushing to try it, but after the success—and, frankly, the perfumery credentials—of Retrospect, I made a point of getting my hands on it. And it really didn’t disappoint.

First, the bottle. It’s the same molten, pebble-esque form as its predecessor, complete with that distinctive thumb-dent, but New Wave has been given its own identity with a slightly different lid and warm, golden juice.

Next, the fragrance itself. New Wave is an amber, but if that immediately makes you think of something powdery and sweet, you'd be mistaken. Yes, the amber character is apparent almost immediately, with a distinct vanillary warmth, but it's cut through by the dry, herbaceous quality of angelica seed. It’s slightly earthy and almost medicinal, stopping the amber underneath from becoming too plush or predictable.

This tension makes sense when you look at its construction. Master perfumer Dominique Ropion and perfumer Meabh McCurtin took the historic Ambre 83 accord, with its rich, resinous, vanillic character, as their starting point, then worked to make it feel lighter and more contemporary.

As it settles, the edges soften and orange flower starts to come through, but not as an overtly pretty white floral. Instead, it's more of a resinous floral: warm, slightly honeyed and almost balsamic, with the flower kind of absorbed into the amber rather than sitting on top of it. Ylang-ylang adds to that solar warmth, but I find the orange flower much easier to identify on my skin.

Then comes the dry-down. The sweetness recedes and the woods, ambroxan and other amber materials come to the fore, leaving behind something smooth, dry and distinctly ambroxy. There’s still a trace of that original warmth, but by this point it feels less like classical amber and more like warm skin against dry wood.

The base itself is extensive. Benzoin, labdanum, olibanum and patchouli sit alongside ambrofoam, ambroxan and musk; earthy cypriol and vetiver; tobacco; cedarwood and oakwood; then vanilla bean and tonka bean. On paper, it sounds as though it should be overwhelmingly rich. On skin, it’s remarkably controlled.

For me, this is where New Wave stands out. It doesn’t progress neatly from bright top notes to a floral heart and finally a heavy amber base. The amber is there from the beginning; it's everything around it that changes. This feels particularly apt given it was initially inspired by an afternoon at the Musée Picasso in Paris, where the Merit team became interested in Cubism and Surrealism—and, specifically, the idea of knowing artistic rules well enough to break them. Ropion and McCurtin have essentially applied the same principle to classical amber perfumery: retaining its richness and sophistication while playing with the way we expect it to unfold.

New Wave is also an extrait de parfum, and its longevity reflects that. It has impressive presence when first sprayed, but it isn’t one of those fragrances that enters a room before you do. Instead, it develops slowly over several hours, becoming warmer, woodier and more intimate as the day goes on.

Retrospect was the fragrance that made me think that Merit deserved to be taken seriously as a perfume brand, and New Wave has confirmed it. The two smell very different—Retrospect is softer, muskier, and more intimate; New Wave is warmer, richer, and more assertive—but both show the same attention to composition.

At £79, it represents exceptional value for this level of perfumery. But more importantly, New Wave doesn’t smell like a fragrance created to capitalise on a successful beauty brand. It smells like the work of two very accomplished perfumers who were given enough room to make something genuinely interesting. And, for a perfume snob like me, that makes it a very easy recommendation.

Launching 22nd October on meritbeauty.com

There’s something so beautiful about glass skin when it’s done well—the complexion looks fresh, healthy and naturally luminous. But as someone with oily skin, I know better than anyone that it’s always a tricky balance. You want that fresh, almost reflective luminosity that makes glass skin look so beautiful, but there’s a fine line between looking intentionally dewy and simply looking shiny.

The good news is that you can absolutely adapt glass skin to work for oily skin. For me, it’s all about strategic product placement, plenty of skin prep, liquid and cream make-up formulas and, crucially, targeted powder application. You don’t want to mattify the entire face and lose all that lovely luminosity; instead, you want to take down shine only in the areas where you don’t want to emphasise it.

Always Start With Really Well-Prepped Skin

The goal is skin that looks incredibly hydrated and moisturised. Glass skin is really about using as little makeup as possible and allowing the skin itself to show through, and that only works if your complexion is properly prepped beforehand.

Having oily skin doesn’t mean you need to strip the skin or make the whole face matte, either. I’ll always apply Bioderma Sébium Pore Refiner to the areas where I know I tend to get shiny. It helps to mattify the areas I don’t want to emphasise and knocks back shine a little before my makeup goes on, without taking away that overall freshness.

Be Very Strategic About Where You Add Glow

Rather than adding luminosity all over the face, I concentrate it on the places where I naturally want the light to catch.

I start by applying a liquid highlighter across my cheekbones and brow bones, along the nose and a little on the Cupid’s bow. This gives you that beautiful glassy, opalescent finish, while still allowing you to keep other areas of the face more controlled.

Keep Your Base as Light as Possible

Next, I apply a skin tint or dewy foundation from the centre of the face outwards, keeping the layer really light. You don’t need to completely cover the skin to create this look—in fact, the less base you can get away with, the fresher and more convincing the finish tends to be.

Under the eyes, I like to use a dewy concealer. My Luminist Concealer works particularly well here because it lifts shadows while brightening and adding luminosity. Then, rather than adding more foundation wherever I need extra coverage, I’ll use a tiny dot of Pinpoint Concealer to neutralise any redness.

That precision is really important. By concealing only what you want to conceal, you can leave as much of your natural skin visible as possible.

Powder is the Secret to Success

Powder is where oily skin needs a little more care. I’ll set just under my eyes to stop unwanted shine, then use a light, invisible powder across the centre of my forehead, around my nose and on my chin.

The trick is not to powder everywhere. I only want to mattify the areas where shine can become distracting, while leaving the cheekbones and other high points of the face luminous.

You shouldn’t really be able to see the powder on the skin. I’m looking to lightly mattify and control shine, while still allowing all that beautiful luminosity to come through. For me, that contrast is what makes glass skin work on an oily complexion: it’s not about eliminating shine, but choosing exactly where you want it.

Eyes are the first thing you notice when you meet someone. So, it makes sense that we spend a considerable amount of time and money making them look their best. We invest in a good eye cream to soften fine lines or reduce the appearance of dark circles. We buy a lash-lengthening mascara and brightening concealer to look slightly more awake. But recently, I've started wondering whether we've become so preoccupied with how our eyes look that we've forgotten about how well they actually work.

It all started when I started experiencing exceptionally dry eyes after my regular Botox top-up. Having never had any eye-related issues before, I suddenly found myself constantly blinking and squinting at my laptop, rubbing my eyes and struggling to focus. The irony wasn't lost on me: I was investing in treatments designed to make my eyes look younger, yet I ended up squinting and acting like someone who desperately needed to see an optician.

But according to the experts, some of the products and treatments we're using in the pursuit of better-looking eyes could be contributing to the problem. "The makeup, skincare and treatments we're using are contributing hugely to the rise in dry eye and ocular allergies and sensitivities that we are seeing," says Nicola Alexander-Cross, optometrist and co-founder of Peep Club.

Perhaps most surprisingly, however, it's not necessarily the invasive treatments you'd expect that deserve our attention. Some of the potential offenders are the simple, everyday products sitting innocently in our bathroom cabinets—and being used every single day.

First, Let's Talk About Meibomian Glands

I'll admit, I'd never heard of a meibomian gland until I sat down with Dr Elizabeth Hawkes, Consultant Ophthalmic and Oculoplastic Surgeon, but it turns out they're rather important when it comes to eye health.

Sitting within the eyelids, close to the lashes, these tiny glands secrete the oily component of our tear film. As Dr Hawkes explains, that oil acts as a protective layer over the ocular surface. If the glands become blocked or their function is disrupted, it can contribute to conditions including blepharitis (chronic inflammation of the eyelids) and dry eye.

Dr Hawkes explains that many eye makeup products, removers and surfactants can disrupt that oily tear-film layer. Even something that sounds reassuringly 'natural' isn't automatically innocuous. Coconut oil, for example, doesn't contain preservatives but any oily product could potentially block the glands.

Dry eye might not sound particularly serious, but anyone who has experienced it will know how disruptive it can be. "You can have a red eye, a gritty eye, foreign-body sensation, and it can make wearing makeup feel uncomfortable," says Dr Hawkes.

Your Eye Makeup Remover Could Matter More Than You Think

"The products that are going to do the most damage are the ones that touch your eye itself or lash line, and the ones you use most often," says Alexander-Cross.

It's why she singles out everyday habits such as wearing eyeliner and removing eye makeup. A product you use directly around your eyes once in a while is one thing; a formula containing potential irritants that you massage over them 365 nights a year is another.

Preservatives are Alexander-Cross's "number one offender" when it comes to eye health, particularly in eye makeup removers, lash-growth serums and whitening drops because of their proximity to the lids and ocular surface. Dr Hawkes agrees that preservatives are something worth paying attention to, and there's one in particular she wants people to know about: Benzalkonium chloride, commonly shortened to BAK. It helps keep certain formulations sterile and prevents them from going off. But Dr Hawkes explains that BAK can also be toxic to the cornea, which is especially alarming seeing as BAK can be found in some eye drops—the very products we might reach for when our eyes are uncomfortable.

None of this means every mascara or preserved eye product needs to go immediately in the bin. But if your eyes are persistently dry, red, itchy or uncomfortable, it's worth looking not only at what you're putting in them, but what you're putting around them every day.

When it comes to eye makeup removers, Dr Hawkes points me towards Optase, which makes a preservative-free eye makeup remover designed for sensitive eyes. She also highlights preservative-free lubricating drops, like Hycosan, for people experiencing dryness.

It Might Be Time to Re-Think Retinol Eye Creams

Retinoids are among the best-evidenced ingredients we have for tackling visible signs of skin ageing, so it makes sense that we'd want those benefits around the very area where fine lines often appear first. But both experts urge some caution around repeated application close to the eye.

Alexander-Cross says retinoids can affect the delicate meibomian glands, while Dr Hawkes tells me that for patients with a history of dry or sensitive eyes, she may favour eye products containing ingredients such as peptides or hyaluronic acid rather than retinol.

That doesn't mean retinol is inherently "bad for your eyes", nor that everyone needs to stop using a retinoid eye cream. It's more about recognising that the ocular surface and the skin surrounding it aren't entirely separate ecosystems.

It's also one of the reasons Dr Hawkes believes there's a case for using products specifically formulated for the eye area rather than automatically extending every face product right up towards your lashes.

"The cream that you need for your face compared to what you need around your eye is different," she explains. "Eyelid skin itself is different—and, importantly, it's skin with an eyeball in the middle of it."

Dr Hawkes would also like to see more eye creams ophthalmologist-tested (which isn't the same as dermatologically tested, by the way). When products undergo appropriate ophthalmic testing, she explains, the ocular surface can be examined for signs that the formula is having an adverse effect.

Lash Serums Deserve Some Scrutiny, Too

Few products illustrate the crossover between beauty and eye health quite as neatly as lash serums. We apply them millimetres from our eyeballs, often every night for months at a time, in pursuit of longer, thicker-looking lashes.

Alexander-Cross particularly flags prostaglandin analogues, which are found in some lash-growth serums. She says they have been associated with changes including pigmentation and periorbital fat loss. But again, frequency and placement matter. Alexander-Cross's general rule is that the products most likely to affect the eyes are those used most frequently and closest to the ocular surface.

That includes the popular makeup technique 'tightlining'— applying eyeliner directly to the waterline, which places cosmetic ingredients right next to the openings of the meibomian glands.

Alexander-Cross isn't suggesting these beauty habits need to disappear altogether. Her advice is more pragmatic: lash-growth serums, tightlining and whitening eye drops may be fine occasionally, but she wouldn't recommend using them regularly.

What About Professional Tweakments?

Of course, many people have taken their eye beauty routines into the realms of clinical tweakments. "There is absolutely a spectrum when it comes to aesthetic treatments and the potential risk on eyes," says Alexander-Cross.

At the lower-risk end, she places permanent eyeliner and cosmetic tattooing, lash lifts and tints, lash extensions and some IPL and radiofrequency treatments. The main risks here include allergy, ocular-surface irritation, scratching and infection. These can still be severe, she stresses, but are generally reversible.

At the more serious end of the spectrum are Botox around the eyes, aggressive lasers such as CO2 and, in particular, tear-trough or dermal filler around the eyes. While the likelihood of a serious complication is low, if something does go wrong, the consequences can be severe and potentially irreversible.

The one procedure both experts would categorically advise against is an aesthetic intervention that surgically changes the colour of the iris. "This is simply not worth the risk," Dr Hawkes says.

For invasive procedures around the eyes, Alexander-Cross says the person performing them is one of the biggest risk factors. The anatomy surrounding the eye is extremely complex, so she advises seeking an appropriately qualified medical professional with specialist expertise in the area.

She also recommends stretching out the time between procedures as much as possible to allow the eyes to recover and taking particularly good care of the ocular surface between treatments.

But Can Any of This Actually Affect Our Eyesight?

This was the question I really wanted answered. Irritated eyes are one thing, but could something as seemingly benign as dry eye actually affect your vision?

"Yes," says Dr Hawkes.

For us to see clearly, light has to pass through the cornea, the transparent surface at the front of the eye. If that surface is disrupted, Dr Hawkes explains, vision can become blurred or misty. It's why someone with dry eye may find themselves blinking repeatedly and briefly seeing more clearly afterwards: blinking has redistributed the tear film over the corneal surface.

More surprisingly still, Dr Hawkes says significant dry eye can even affect an eye-test prescription. "If you've got really dry eye, it will affect your prescription," she says. Someone struggling to read a line on an eye chart may find it becomes clearer after using lubricating drops.

Importantly, we're not talking about your eye cream slowly making you blind. Dr Hawkes describes the visual changes caused by dry eye as typically misty or blurred rather than serious and permanent.

But there is something rather ironic about spending hundreds of pounds trying to make our eyes look better while potentially overlooking everyday habits that can affect how comfortably and clearly we see.

The Eye-Friendly Edit

As soon as I step out of the shower, my skin feels instantly devoid of all moisture. Washing in London’s hard water for 27 years has done me no favours in that department, and my bleached hair has long been feeling the impact too. In an attempt to remedy the after-effects of high levels of calcium and magnesium in my water, I finally installed a Water2skin filtered shower head—and saw the benefits almost immediately.

Even though friends and colleagues had long raved about the best filtered shower heads, I truthfully could never be bothered to get one myself. I believed that they would be time-consuming and fiddly to install, and it was something that went to the back of my mind as soon as my skincare routine had soothed my dryness. But I’ve now accepted that my dehydration isn’t something that the best shower oils alone can fix when the root cause persists.

Designed to help reduce chlorine and heavy metals in your water, the Water2skin filtered shower head vows to improve both skin and hair whilst being easy to install yourself. After a month of testing, this is everything I’ve noticed.

How We Test

The Marie Claire UK team takes product testing seriously, with a commitment to delivering accurate, honest and genuinely helpful reviews for our readers. For this review, I tested the Water2skin filtered shower head for a month. As well as looking at ease of installation and use, I assessed how my skin and hair changed throughout this time and whether I believe it’s worth the investment.

First Impressions

The first thing to know about Water2skin is that you can decide between a handheld filter head, a rainfall filter head, or a bundle of both. I opted for the handheld as it’s the shower head I use the most for washing my hair, and I thought it might be easier to install than a rainfall for my first go. You can also choose gold, silver, or black, so you can find a shade that fits the rest of your bathroom.

I was expecting the shower head to arrive in a bulky box with a lot of instructions and hardware, but it was actually surprisingly minimal—just the product and a QR code for the instructions. I’d seen that the Water2 shower filter was advertised as easy to install, but I was shocked by how simple it really was. So simple, in fact, that I didn’t even end up needing the instructions. I just unscrewed my current shower head and screwed the new one straight on, no tools or equipment necessary.

Compared to some other shower filters on the market, I love how sleek and elevated the Water2 looks. It doesn’t have an industrial or technical appearance, so it doesn’t look out of place in the shower. In fact, it’s far more stylish than my default shower head. And although it looks bigger and more cumbersome, it isn’t any heavier. It’s impressively lightweight and easy to lift when washing my hair, as well as easy to grip and hold onto.

How It Works

Water2skin uses dual filtration technology which combines KDF-55 and Calcium Sulfite to help reduce chlorine and heavy metals in your water. Unfiltered hard water can cause a range of issues, including: skin irritation, dryness, and redness; accelerated hair colour fade; weakened proteins in the hair structure (making hair more prone to breakage); damage to the hair cuticle that can cause frizz, tangles, and split ends; and disruption to your hair and skin’s moisture balance, leading to dull hair and dry skin.

By installing a filter like Water2skin, your shower water will be free of harsh chemicals and gentler on your hair and skin.

How To Use

Once the Water2skin shower head is screwed on, you’re ready to go. However, run the shower for two minutes before hopping in to ensure the water is flowing properly through the filter.

The beauty of a shower filter like this is that it requires no effort or thought once it’s installed; you just shower as usual. For me, the best investments slot into your routine seamlessly without forward planning, and the Water2skin is exactly that.

Do note that it’s recommended you change the filter every 90 days to maintain best possible results, and replacement filters cost £40.

The Verdict

The first thing I noticed about the Water2skin head was how good the water pressure was, and how gentle it felt on my skin. I’ve always had decent pressure in my flat, but the square design with multiple nozzles made it feel even better dispersed so it isn’t constantly hitting just one area—a blessing for my long and thick hair that needs a lot of saturation.

After spending my entire life showering in hard, unfiltered water, I wasn’t expecting an overnight fix. As with any good beauty and wellness investment, I thought it would take time to see results. However, even after my first shower, I noticed how much more comfortable my skin felt with no tightness like I’m used to. But by far the biggest difference was how soft my hair felt.

I typically have to follow an extensive wavy hair routine packed with anti-frizz products to avoid excessive flyaways and dryness, but even after one shower with Water2skin I was able to leave my hair to air dry without any additional products. It’s noticeably smoother and shinier, and it feels the healthiest it ever has.

Over my next few hair washes, I also noticed that my hair was shedding far less and getting less tangled day-to-day. Combined with my skin feeling less dehydrated and more comfortable post-shower, I’m totally sold on the shower filter’s benefits.

It’s by far the easiest daily routine change I’ve ever implemented, and it’s easily worth the current £75 cost. I’d spend more on a purely decorative shower head upgrade, and with Water2skin you get a stylish bathroom addition with the countless beauty benefits too.

Shop more hard water antidotes

The Beauty Digest is my Beauty Director’s edit of what’s actually worth your attention. Each week, I’ll be sharing the new launches I’m using and loving, the viral treatments I’m putting to the test (and what I really think of the results), plus my take on the industry conversations everyone’s talking about.

The New Launches on My Radar

Spotlight On: The Philosophy of Perfume

Few people can talk about perfume with quite the same infectious enthusiasm as fragrance journalist Alice du Parcq. With an encyclopaedic knowledge of the industry and a remarkable ability to make even the most complex aspects of perfumery feel accessible, she's become one of the most compelling voices in fragrance. Her new book, The Philosophy of Perfume, explores our relationship with scent beyond the notes and ingredients, delving into the psychology of perfume, its connection to memory and identity, and why certain smells have such a profound emotional effect on us.

It's a refreshing departure from the usual prescriptive approach to fragrance, encouraging us to think less about what we should be wearing and more about what genuinely captures our attention and moves us. Whether you're a committed perfume obsessive or simply curious about why a particular scent can transport you back twenty years in an instant, this is an essential read.

The Treatment Trial: Current Body Series 3 Mask

Confession time: I've always been a little sceptical of at-home LED therapy devices. Compared to professional treatments, the light intensity is often lower, and poor skin contact can compromise how effectively the light is delivered. That's not to say they don't work—there's pretty solid evidence supporting certain wavelengths of LED light for skin rejuvenation—but I've often found myself questioning whether the results justify the (sometimes considerable) investment.

CurrentBody's new Series 3 mask, however, addresses some of these concerns, taking into account the factors that influence the efficacy of LED therapy, including wavelength, light dosage and how consistently the light reaches the skin. Where the Series 2 offered three wavelengths and 236 LEDs, the Series 3 has six wavelengths and 750 LEDs, including blue light for blemishes, green for pigmentation and yellow for redness, alongside red and near-infrared light for skin rejuvenation. But the really clever part is its new MyDose technology, which lets you map different wavelengths to specific areas of your face via its app. So, rather than treating your entire face with the same light, you could target fine lines around your eyes with red light, pigmentation on your cheeks with green and breakouts on your chin with blue, all in the same session. The system then automatically calculates and adjusts the light dosage for each area.

It's a major technological advancement, bringing a level of precision to at-home LED therapy that was previously out of reach. I've been using it for two weeks now, and I'm already impressed with the results, not to mention how comfortable it is to wear. It fits snugly against my face without feeling restrictive, and crucially, doesn't hurt my eyes. It's still early days for assessing the longer-term benefits, but so far, it's doing a very good job of converting me.

Ever had an experience at the hair salon where what you had in mind isn’t quite what you ended up with? It sounds simple, but one of the best ways to make sure you get what you want from your hair appointment is to make sure what you ask for is actually… what you’re asking for. Ask any hairdresser, though, and they’ll tell you that there’s a lot of confusion around various in-salon services and techniques.

That is why I asked three of them to share the terms they most often hear clients use incorrectly in the salon—versus what they actually mean. From colour to cuts and treatments, consider this your ultimate confusion-busting guide to help you ask for the right thing once you’re in the chair.

9 of the Most Misused Hairdressing Terms—and What They Actually Mean

Toner vs a full colour service

“This is probably the most misunderstood word in the salon,” says Samantha Cusick, founder of the SCL salons. “Clients come in asking for a toner thinking it's going to transform their colour completely [to] a whole new shade. What a toner actually does is refine and adjust the existing colour. It cancels out unwanted tones, adds depth or shine and makes everything look more polished and intentional. It's the finishing touch, not the main event. Brilliant and often transformative, but not a colour service in its own right.”

Abbie Cirket, Stylist at Blue Tit East Village, agrees that clients will often say something along the liens of, “‘I hate how dark or warm my blonde is, so I need a toner to make it lighter’. A toner changes or refines the tone of existing hair; it doesn’t create significant lift,” she explains. “It can neutralise unwanted yellow or brassy tones or add a different tonal direction, but if the client wants substantially lighter hair, that requires a lightening service first.”

2. A trim vs a proper haircut

“[Clients will say] ‘I just want a tiny bit off the ends', but they really mean an inch or more,” says Charlotte Mensah, founder of Hairlounge and author of Good Hair: The Essential Guide to Afro, Textured and Curly Hair. "People often ask for the tiniest trim because they want to keep as much length as possible, but when it comes to cutting hair, health has to come first. If the ends are split or damaged, taking off a little more can actually do far more good than harm. There’s no benefit in holding onto length that is compromising the overall health of the hair.”

“A trim is still a haircut, as the stylist is removing length and/or reshaping the hair,” Cirket echoes. “The confusion tends to come when ‘trim’ is used to mean ‘don’t take much off,’ rather than ‘don’t cut it.’”

Mensah stresses the importance of a health-first approach, which she and her team always take in her salon. “We take off what the hair needs, no more and no less. And importantly, less hair to cut doesn’t make the service cheaper, just as taking off more doesn’t make it more expensive. The skill and care involved remain the same.”

3. Balayage vs highlights

Cusick notes that clients frequently ask for balayage when they are actually after highlights. “Sometimes they want full highlights, but have seen a balayage picture they like the colour of, rather than the technique,” she explains. “Balayage is a freehand painting technique where colour is applied directly to the hair without foils, giving a softer, more natural, sun-kissed result with a gradual fade. Traditional highlights use foils and give a more uniform, higher-contrast finish.”

The reverse is also true. “Often, clients will say they want ‘highlights’, but they actually mean they want their hair to be lighter,” says Cirket. “They automatically say highlights when they want a lighter result, but usually they want a more softly-blended and lower maintenance result, which would be a balayage.”

Ultimately, it comes down to the results you’re after. “Neither service is better, they just do completely different things,” says Cusick. “Knowing which one your client actually wants is one of the most important conversations we have at consultation.”

4. Layers vs movement

“Oh, this one causes so much confusion. Clients ask for layers when they mean they want movement and texture, but they often panic when they see hair being cut shorter because they think they're losing length,” says Cusick. “Layers don't have to mean shorter hair, they mean strategically placed cuts through the hair to create movement, remove weight and add shape. The length can stay exactly the same.

“‘I want layers’ often means ‘I want my hair to have more movement, volume and that bouncy, effortless look I’ve seen in a photo’,” Cirket adds. “Layers are created by cutting different sections of hair to different lengths, so the hair doesn’t all sit at one length. But there are lots of different types and placements of layers—long, short, internal, face-framing, crown layers, et cetera—and they can produce very different results.”

Ultimately, it’s about explaining what you want the layering or texture to do for your overall style. “Getting specific about what you want layers to do for you—more volume, less bulk, more texture—is so much more useful than just asking for layers and hoping for the best,” Cusick concludes.

5. Money piece vs face-framing highlights

“The money piece has become one of the most requested things in the salon and I love it, but there is so much confusion around what it actually is,” says Cusick. The term is often confused with face-framing highlights, she explains, but the two are quite different. “A true money piece is a deliberate, quite bold section of lightened hair that sits right at the front of the face, framing it with a noticeable contrast against the rest of the colour,” Cusick explains. “It's a statement. It's meant to be seen.”

On the other hand, “Face-framing highlights are much softer, much more blended and much more subtle. Both are gorgeous, but they create completely different results,” she continues. “If you [want] a money piece and your colourist gives you a soft face frame, or vice versa, nobody is getting what they wanted. Always bring a reference image for this one, as it will save so much confusion on both sides of the chair.”

6. Conditioning treatment vs bond builder

Cusick also notes that clients will ask for a conditioning treatment, thinking that it will repair damage. However, “[this] makes hair feel softer and smoother temporarily by coating the outside of the hair,” she explains. “A bond builder actually works inside the hair shaft to rebuild the broken bonds that cause damage in the first place.” One is about moisture and softness, while the other is about deep structural repair inside the hair. “If your hair is genuinely damaged from colour or heat, a conditioning treatment alone won't fix it,” Cusick stresses. “You need to be rebuilding from the inside out.”

7. Face-framing vs curtain bangs

“This is another term commonly used by clients, when actually they maybe want more of a curtain bang look—they can look similar, but they aren’t necessarily the same cut,” says Cirket.

“Face-framing is a broader cutting technique, where pieces around the front of the hair are cut to different lengths to create shape around the face. It can be very subtle, sometimes starting around the cheekbone or jaw, and can blend into the rest of the haircut. Curtain bangs are more specific. They’re a type of fringe that is generally shorter in the centre and longer towards the sides, creating that parted, curtain-like effect. They can incorporate face-framing pieces, but not every face-framing haircut is a curtain fringe.”

8. Blow dry vs straight hair

Mensah explains that clients will often request a blowout, not straight hair. “When somebody asks for a blowout, they might not necessarily want poker-straight hair, but they usually do want smoothness, polish and movement,” she says. Again, this comes down to the terminology.

“People can sometimes be nervous about words like ‘straightening’ or ‘silk press’ because they associate them with heat, and that concern is understandable,” she continues. “Heat is something we should use thoughtfully, but my approach has always been: start with healthy hair, protect it properly, use the right tools and then the possibilities open up.”

9. Gloss vs shine treatments

“People think a gloss is just a shine treatment, like a finishing spray or something superficial. Actually, a gloss is a semi-permanent colour service that coats the hair shaft, corrects tone, adds incredible shine and improves the overall condition of the hair,” says Cusick.

“It genuinely transforms how colour looks and how hair feels and it's one of the most underrated services we offer. When a client says they just want a bit of shine, nine times out of ten what they actually want is a gloss.”

K-beauty has revolutionised how we approach skincare, with South Korea becoming the world's beauty hub and producing some of the most exciting innovations of the past decade.

So, what happens when a more advanced category of ingredients and brands enters the global stage? Meet: K-pharmacy, the booming concept that's set to ramp up skincare in the Western world this coming year.

“K-pharmacy is Korean skincare shaped at the pharmacy counter rather than on a social media feed," says Junho Jung, Licensed Pharmacist, Founder & CEO of Dr.Reju-All. "K-beauty taught the world to love texture, ritual and discovery; K-pharmacy adds another dimension: evidence and trust. It starts with a different question: not ‘What’s trending?’ but ‘What does my skin actually need, and why?’”

"It encompasses products and brands with strong pharmaceutical, dermatological or pharmacist-led roots, often at affordable prices, and which you won’t find on the high street," adds Dr Christine Hall, aesthetic doctor and K-beauty expert.

Hall explains there's a relevant difference between the two countries (the UK and Korea) to understand here, in terms of how we approach the distinction between healthcare and skincare. "It's not quite as rigid in Korea as it is in the UK. You can walk into a Korean pharmacy and find products for acne, pigmentation, sensitive skin, barrier repair, scarring and post-treatment care alongside medicines and other healthcare products," she says.

The skincare brands reflecting the K-pharmacy approach are, however, now quickly becoming popularised (and more accessible generally) in the West, despite being nothing new in South Korea. "It isn’t a new concept by any means – but it is only recently that the rest of the world is hearing about it," says Hall.

This popularity boom here, Jung notes, is mostly because our skincare education as consumers has evolved significantly in recent years. “Western consumers have become remarkably fluent in active ingredients. They no longer just want to know what is in a product, but why it is there and why they should trust it. As K-beauty matures, I believe its next phase will pair Korean innovation with greater evidence and expertise. Trends fade, but trust compounds.”

Social media (and beauty tourism) has a huge role here, too. "Someone goes to Korea, walks into a pharmacy and discovers a product they’ve never seen in Boots or Space NK. They try it, post about it, and suddenly consumers in the UK are asking, 'Why can’t I get this here?'" says Dr Hall. "Korean pharmacists themselves are seeing the value of this and many are creating social media pages where their posts often go viral."

Brands helping popularise the movement here, Hall says, include AESTURA, OneThera and Dr.Reju-All. Of the former, she says: "It's a really good example of how this category developed. Its Atobarrier Cream was launched almost 20 years ago through dermatology clinics and hospitals, where it gained recognition before eventually becoming available more widely through health and beauty retail."

Dr.Reju-All, she notes, is also "a brand whose formulations are grounded in the clinical experience of pharmacists." Known for its PDRN range, it also heavily features ceramides, retinoid-focused products and PDLLA formulations, which harness the power of injectable clinic biostimulators. PDLLA is "an ingredient that hasn’t yet really made its way over to the UK as a topical skincare product," says Hall.

"And then you have pharmaceutical companies such as Dong-A Pharmaceutical, which has products including Noscarna Gel for scarring and acne-focused products such as Aclean within its dermatological portfolio," she concludes.

The K-pharmacy category—and Korean beauty more broadly—does a great job of playing with how we formulate the ingredients we love and how we deliver them. In other words, it's great at rethinking "how ingredients with roots in dermatology can be formulated for everyday skincare," says Jung. PDRN (a topical 'alternative' to injectable polynucleotides) is a good example. PDLLA (used in aesthetics as a skin booster) is another, which we may start to see more of topically in the UK.

The beauty industry in Korea is particularly impressive for "taking ingredients that address similar concerns and finding ways of making them more tolerable and cosmetically elegant," explains Hall. For example, "it was Korea that brought microspicules into the skincare world, and this is an area of growth. There is interest in whether microspicules can increase the absorption or delivery of active ingredients, so the use of these for the delivery of other ingredients is going to be an interesting focus."

Whatever is next will no doubt be just as fascinating.

LED light therapy is widely acknowledged as a skincare hero—but as with any beauty treatment or product, it's important to assess whether you're the right candidate first, particularly when it comes to blue light, which can affect darker skin tones differently.

Context is key here, as red light and blue light are used for distinct skin needs. The former penetrates deep into the tissue to calm redness, reduce the appearance of fine lines, as well as promote collagen production, improve elasticity, and even tackle scarring with continued use. Blue light, on the other hand, works on the surface to zap spot-causing bacteria (especially that linked to inflammatory acne), and regulate excess oil production.

However, while red light, which is UV free and doesn't target melanin, is safe for all skin tones, the same cannot be said for its blue counterpart.

Can Blue Light Masks Cause Pigmentation?

"Yes, the main concern is pigmentation," comments Consultant Dermatologist, Dr Emma Amoafo-Mensah. "Visible light, and particularly the shorter wavelengths within it such as blue light, can stimulate the production of melanin and can make existing pigmentation more persistent," she says. It can also trigger unwanted darkening and worsen melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

While all skin types can be affected, this is especially relevant for people with darker skin, particularly Fitzpatrick skin types III through VI, because their melanocytes (melanin-producing cells) are more responsive to visible light, so pigmentation can be more pronounced and longer-lasting.

"For darker skin, the issue isn't that blue light is inherently dangerous; it's that visible light can be another trigger for pigmentation, and pigmentation is often harder to treat and more persistent in skin of colour," she adds.

As Dr Sharon Wong, Consultant Dermatologist and co-founder of DOSE, chimes in, "High levels of blue light can also generate free radicals and oxidative stress in the skin. That can drive increased pigmentation, and with excessive exposure, it is also associated with collagen breakdown and premature ageing."

Of course, not all blue light is alike. Per Dr Amoafo-Mensah, it's important to distinguish this from the blue light we get from our phones and computer screens. "The intensity and duration of exposure from a therapeutic light device are very different from normal screen exposure, and we don't currently have good evidence that everyday screen use causes the same skin effects as therapeutic or sunlight exposure."

Can Darker Skin Tones Use Blue Light Masks?

Dr Wong urges caution when treating acne with a blue-light mask if you have darker skin, as improper use can trigger or worsen stubborn pigmentation. "This is particularly important where there is little clear information about wavelength, energy settings, safety protocols, or whether the specific device has been tested on darker skin tones," she says.

However, a new innovation from CurrentBody, their Series 3 LED Mask, has research showing that its blue light feature is safe for darker skin. It moves away from a one-size-fits-all treatment; instead, the mask is able to calculate the optimal therapeutic dose across different wavelengths based on your individual skin goals.

"Dose is key to this conversation," a CurrentBody spokesperson tells Marie Claire UK. "In studies, pigmentation appeared at around 40 to 70 J/cm² of light. A full blue session in our Series 3 mask delivers under 5 J/cm², at a lower intensity than the blue light in summer sunshine, which is the equivalent of less than ten minutes outdoors."

But that doesn't mean that it's not effective. Blue light works at the surface of the skin, so it needs very low energy to be effective, versus red or near-infrared LED. Interestingly, it also uses a unique zone-mapping system, which means you can assign specific wavelengths to specific areas of your face. This means that you can just put the blue light on areas that are breaking out to be doubly safe.

Of course, always consult a dermatologist experienced in this area first, notes Dr Wong says. "They will use licensed devices and evidence-based protocols, and can tell you whether light therapy is even suitable for your type of acne."

If you are using light-based devices, both experts stress the importance of wearing a sunscreen including iron oxides to provide protection against visible light, including blue light. They also advise against applying anything potentially photosensitising immediately beforehand, including retinoids and some prescription acne treatments, unless your dermatologist has advised otherwise.

Derm-Approved Products for Acne-Prone, Melanated Skin

At 42, I’ve done pretty well to avoid injectable aesthetic treatments. However, one month ago, two treatments finally convinced me to take the plunge: HArmonyCa™ and SKINVIVE™ by JUVÉDERM®.

This year, I felt like my skin needed something, but in a crowded marketplace, I was unsure what. For some reason, I’m still quite resistant to Botox and filler; believing that you should only really get them when you seriously need them. I’m not at that stage yet, but my skin definitely required some kind of intervention.

I’d noticed a dip in elasticity and less definition, as well as a visible decrease in the youthful glow I used to have. When I got three personal recommendations for HArmonyCa and SkinVive by Juvéderm (always layered together), I decided this was going to be where I lost my injectable virginity.

Both are what are commonly known as ‘skin boosters’, designed to improve skin quality rather than freeze movement like Botox or add volume in the way we traditionally associate with filler. I had both treatments during the same appointment with aesthetic doctor Dr Apul Parikh in London.

What Is HArmonyCa?

The treatment combines Hyaluronic Acid (the skin’s natural hydrator) to immediately plump the skin and restore lost volume, with Calcium Hydroxyapatite to stimulate long-term collagen production (which will naturally firm and lift the skin over time). So, you’ll see instant results when you leave the clinic, plus gradually improved skin over time as your body produces more collagen.

Dr Parikh performed HArmonyCa first—and if you're squeamish, this probably isn’t the treatment for you. Rather than simply injecting the product into multiple points, A fine needle creates a single entry point, through which a flexible, blunt-ended cannula is threaded under the skin. The cannula distributes the product under the skin to reduce bruising. It’s not so much painful, but it is uncomfortable.

Who Is It Suitable For?

According to Dr Parikh, HArmonyCa is particularly suited to more mature patients who have noticed a decrease in skin quality or the early signs of jowling. “Apart from helping to gently lift the cheeks and contour the jawline, it works to stimulate your own collagen levels in the skin,” he says. “Patients notice their skin quality improving, their accordion lines reduce, and the amazing thing is that this process goes on for approximately 15–18 months.”

However, it is contraindicated in pregnant and breastfeeding patients, as well as patients with severe autoimmune conditions.

What Is SkinVive?

While HArmonyCa focuses on plumpness, definition, and collagen stimulation, SkinVive focuses on healthy-looking skin, addressing surface texture and glow through skin hydration with hyaluronic acid. It delivers a patented, hydrating, thinner form of hyaluronic acid that spreads easily within the skin to boost hydration, bring a healthy glow, plump out fine lines, and refine texture. It’s designed to complement your existing skincare routine.

Dr Parikh administered SkinVive with a much shorter needle. The needle is injected multiple times on each side of the face and, while each injection was quick, it did sting.

Who Is SKINVIVE™ Suitable For?

According to Dr Apul Parikh, SkinVive is suitable for everyone, unless they’re pregnant, breastfeeding, or have severe autoimmune conditions. He says that it’s “a wonderful treatment for men as well as women of all ages, and perhaps for those who are potentially starting their aesthetic skincare journey."

Is There Any Downtime?

As for the pain, I obviously felt each injection, but HArmonyCa contains the local anaesthetic lidocaine, which helped limit the severity of the stinging that followed with SkinVive. Once the injections were over, I felt very little discomfort for the next few hours. When the anaesthetic wore off, I experienced a dull ache and some tenderness for around 24 hours.

The visible downtime lasted slightly longer. I had three small wounds on each side of my face where the HArmonyCa cannulas had been inserted, which remained red and textured for a few days. I also experienced a small amount of bruising and some minimal swelling. After a few days, however, there were no visible signs I’d had anything done.

The Verdict

It’s now been one month since my treatments. In the before-and-after photographs above, I have bare skin and am wearing the same skincare products.

I noticed an immediate plumping effect after treatment, and after around 10 days I started to see that healthy glow. A month later, the difference is more noticeable. My face looks more structured and contoured and the shape has changed in a way that makes it appear slimmer. The ‘slackness’ I had started to notice has gone; my jawline and cheekbones look sharper, while my skin appears firmer and smoother.

Altogether, I feel like the treatments have wound the clock back somewhat, and I’m impressed by how quickly I saw results. There’s no doubt I would have them again. I’ve had much more unpleasant treatments for less noticeable results in the past; in comparison, these felt like a breeze.

This content is for informational and educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice - always consult with a qualified healthcare professional before treatment decisions.

There's a chill in the air, the leaves are turning from green to umber, which means one thing: autumn is mere days away. September is peak "back to school" energy, and that applies to beauty too—around this time, I'll usually feel the need to revamp my hair, or opt for deeper, darker colours; but the more pressing matter is usually fragrance.

After a long, hot summer, it can be hard to know how to switch up your signature fragrance, or indeed scent wardrobe, for the colder months; but perfumers stress that you don't need to do a complete revamp: look first at the fragrance families that you come back to time and time again, and what you were drawn towards during the warmer months, advises Frances Shoemack, the founder of 100 per cent natural perfume brand, Abel.

"I would think of it less as replacing one with the other and more of a thoughtful transition; a re-styling perhaps," she advises. "If you're buying something new, see it not as an autumn-only purchase, but as a warmer complement to what you already have. The mistake people make is buying one autumn fragrance and expecting it to do all the work. It's better to look at what's already dense or resinous in what you own and just wear it more often, then add one thing with real weight to it if there's a genuine gap."

Ahead, a practical guide to selecting scents for autumn, grouped by fragrance family, so you're guaranteed to love them.

Florals

"Look for florals with more texture as you move into autumn," advises Saint-Ford; noting that that jasmine, violet, iris and plumeria pair well with more wintery notes of sandalwood, cashmera, amber, and musks. "You don't necessarily need to move into something heavier. It's about taking the brightness and softness you loved in summer and giving it a warmer, more grounded base. I also love florals against woods in autumn because they still feel alive, but have more depth and intimacy on the skin."

Fruits

When it comes to fruits, look to the kitchen, so warm, cooked fruits, not crisp and fresh. The perfumes recommend tart cherry, fig, plum or anything closer to jam or rum-soaked, rather than fresh off the tree.

Woods

A lot of woody scents are inherently quite wintery, but if you wear them year-round, warm woods, like sandalwood and cedar, perfectly encapsulate that cosy energy we're looking for.

Musks

"Musks and skin scents are truly year round but this is where I'd really lean into layering," notes Shoemack. "I'd consider pairing with a wood, gourmand (vanilla is perfect) or amber to bring them into more cosy territory."

Gourmands

If you can't stay away from saccharine gourmands, look for notes with some friction in them; toasted, roasted, salted, not straight sugar. "Complexity and restraint is what makes a gourmand wearable past October, instead of reading like dessert," says Shoemack.

Richard Saint-Ford, the founder of indie perfume label, Iggywoo, adds, that looking for vanilla, tonka, coffee, pistachio or laconic notes balanced with amber, woods, spice or a little bitterness, is a way to note-check that transition. "You still get that comfort and indulgence, but with more structure and warmth rather than smelling literally like dessert."

Citrus

While the perfumers stress that citrus-heavy fragrances don't need to disappear, Shoemack comments that it needs something to ground it, "So it reads as structure rather than freshness." You can consider citruses that have woody elements, or heavier bases with notes of vetiver, for example.

Amber

You can't get a more autumnal fragrance family than amber—if you really want to lean in, opt for resinous and dark, rather than golden and sweet.

Leather

Shoemack recommends looking for a leather scent that is closer to suede than tack room. "You want it to be softened with something powdery or ambery underneath so it doesn't read as too severe."

Fashion month is well and truly underway. From MUAs and hairstylists to session manicurists, prep is complete for one of the most anticipated months in the social calendar.

Considering the nature of my job, I have always been intrigued by the subsequent runway looks, yes, but also the contents of their kits. These industry stalwarts are often working on shows back-to-back and rushing across the city, which means they can only carry around the most hardworking products, which have proved their salt time and time again. To satisfy my curiosity, I consulted Sam McKnight, Fara Homidi, Nick Irwin and other backstage pros for details on the essentials they can't work without...

Fara Homidi, Editorial MUA and Founder

Fara Homidi Essential Face Compact: "I use the Essential Face Compact to perfect the complexion only where needed while preserving the skin’s natural dimension. It can be applied precisely or diffused more broadly, without ever looking like too much."

Egyptian Magic: "My everything salve. I use it to bring a little sheen to the eyelids or across the body for naturally sumptuous skin. I also use it on dry blemishes that are nearly healed: I let it sit while I prep the face, then gently remove the softened dry skin without irritation."

Chanel Precision Démaquillant Yeux Intense: "This bi-phase remover is incredibly gentle and takes makeup off quickly. Backstage, both matter- especially when time is short, and I want the model in my chair to feel comfortable and happy."

Fara Homidi Pool Slick Lash Lacquer: "Lashes can completely shift the attitude of a look. My Pool Slick Lash Lacquer can customise them from softly separated and defined to dark, bold and glossy. The curved wand also makes it easy to lift and reach every lash when working quickly backstage."

Sam McKnight, Celebrity Session Hairstylist and Founder

Hair by Sam McKnight Modern Hairspray Multi-Task Styling Mist: "There's no fashion week without it. Backstage there’s always one in my pocket. Whether I'm styling and need the heat protection, creating volume, sleek styles, or need more shine through the hair, it's my go-to. I can do pretty much anything with it."

YS Park 40G4 Curl Shine Styler Brush 35mm“The right brushes are the key to good hair. It’s important to invest in ones that don’t snag or pull. Some of my favourites are YS Park, Mason & Pearson and Denman. It doesn’t always need to be fancy or expensive. I love my brush that looks like a toothbrush from YS Park. It’s made from wood and has natural bristles – it’s amazing for smoothing fly-aways."

Airtex Net: "Another kit essential is an Airtex Net. I use these to protect the hair when styling, but also to flatten and smooth it when time is short.”

Hair by Sam McKnight Cool Girl Body Volumising & Plumping Cream: "Hair health backstage is always on my mind. I need a product that delivers multiple benefits in one go, so a hybrid is the key to better hair, and one that does what you want it to. My new Cool Girl Body is the product I turn to when I have a model in my chair whose hair needs plumping, thickening and strengthening with heat, humidity and frizz protection. It does a lot!"

Carly Utting, Editorial MUA and MAC Senior Artist

MAC Studio Radiance Face and Body Foundation: "I’m still yet to find a backstage base that beats Face and Body. It makes skin look so believably perfect, with the most incredible balmy finish. Although the new Studio Radiance Skin Tint Stick is definitely giving it a run for its money."

Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base+: "I love the Bobbi Brown Face Base for skin prep, it grips onto the skin beautifully so any base applied on top sits perfectly."

Relavel Extra Large Makeup Case: "I love my Relavel makeup case too, it’s my pop up and go kit with a little of everything in it. It’s a super handy organised makeup case with so many different segments making it easy to grab products quickly."

MAC Groundwork Paint Pot: "Groundwork Paint Pot is a non negotiable in my kit. For me, it’s one of the most perfect brown shades ever made, it has just the right amount of depth and gives the lid this beautifully soft, diffused finish that always looks effortless."

Larry King, Celebrity Session Hairstylist and Founder

Dyson Supersonic™ Origin hair dryer: "It's my go-to for controlled heat and creating a beautiful, polished base. It's particularly important for prepping the hair before styling and achieving a really controlled blow dry."

Larry King Haircare Flyaway With Me Kit: "This is ideal for finishing sleeker looks while keeping them soft. It tames flyaways without creating a wet or overly slick finish, making it perfect for those final touch-ups before models hit the runway."

Dyson Vented Barrel brush – 35mm barrel: "The perfect brush for creating that big, bouncy ’90s blow-dry, loads of volume, movement and a smooth finish without looking too ‘done’."

Sectioning Clips: "One extra non-product thing I’d add is sectioning or styling clips. They’re not glamorous, but for Fashion Week they’re genuinely useful for controlling sections during prep, setting shape while the hair cools, and keeping the styling process clean and efficient."

Nick Irwin, Session Hairstylist and Schwarzkopf Global Ambassador

Schwarzkopf Session label Volumizing Mousse: "This is a super versatile product used across all hair types. Whether it's a wet look, effortless lived-in texture or big, high glam blowouts... This product does it all."

Session Kit, Setting Net: "A setting net is one of those simple kit essentials—it keeps the shape controlled while the hair sets, without disturbing the work underneath.”

Schwarzkopf Session Label The Strong: "This is my go-to strong hairspray. It will lock down everything from sleek pony tails to gravity defining textures that need hold on the runway."

YS Park Pin Tail Comb 12: "A proper session essential—precise, lightweight and reliable. The pin tail gives you total control for clean sectioning and detailed work."

If there’s one thing I want you to take away from this article, it’s that a healthy skin barrier is the number one thing that will improve your skin. Without it, it doesn’t matter how many expensive treatments or buzzy ingredients you throw at it.

And one of the most important ingredients for maintaining a healthy skin barrier? Ceramides. These naturally occurring lipids act like mortar, holding the outermost layer of your skin together and helping prevent moisture loss and protect against external aggressors. Using ceramide-rich skincare, alongside making sure you're not overdoing it with active ingredients, is one of the simplest ways to keep your skin barrier in good condition.

But what if, rather than simply replacing the ceramides our skin loses, we could encourage it to produce more of its own?

That's the thinking behind the latest generation of ceramide skincare, and it represents an interesting development in the skin longevity movement. Rather than focusing exclusively on tackling signs of ageing once they appear, longevity skincare is concerned with maintaining the biological processes that keep our skin functioning at its best for as long as possible.

And Elizabeth Arden, a brand that has been pioneering ceramide skincare for more than 35 years, is getting in on the action. Its iconic Ceramide Capsules have undergone a complete reformulation, introducing new technology designed not only to replenish lost ceramides but also to support the skin's natural production. The idea is to strengthen the skin barrier now while helping to protect it against future damage.

Having used the previous formulation every autumn and winter for years, I was particularly interested to try the new Elizabeth Arden Advanced Gold Ceramide Capsules. Here's everything you need to know about the science behind them, and what happened when I put them to the test.

The Science

Elizabeth Arden has been developing ceramide skincare for more than three decades, but its latest reformulation introduces something new. The fourth generation of its iconic capsules now contains an exclusive, patent-pending P-PAR Longevity Catalyst, developed with input from scientist Dr Fatemah Mohammadi, who holds more than 50 patents in the beauty and pharmaceutical industries.

P-PARs, or peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors, are receptors involved in regulating several important biological processes, including lipid metabolism. In the skin, they play a role in the production of the lipids that help maintain a healthy barrier.

Elizabeth Arden's new P-PAR Longevity Catalyst is designed to activate these receptors, supporting the skin's natural production of essential barrier lipids, including ceramides. In other words, rather than simply applying ceramides to replace those we've lost, the idea is to encourage our skin to produce more of its own.

However, it's worth distinguishing between the proposed science and the clinical results. While the new catalyst is designed to support natural ceramide production, the brand's published clinical findings primarily measure improvements in the visible appearance of skin.

And those claims are fairly bold. According to Elizabeth Arden, skin appeared firmer, smoother and more radiant after seven days. In a consumer study involving 55 participants, 100% agreed that their skin felt dramatically younger after four weeks.

Meanwhile, a separate clinical study involving 37 participants found a 28% reduction in forehead lines and a 22% reduction in nasolabial folds after eight weeks. The brand also claims the formula can take five years off the visible appearance of skin. But how well does it actually work?

How We Test

I've been using the new capsules daily for approximately a month, which has given me time to assess how they've affected the appearance and condition of my skin. I've also been using the previous formulation every autumn and winter for years, so I'm already very familiar with the benefits of ceramide skincare.

In the interests of full disclosure, there's one important factor to consider when looking at my before-and-after photographs. During the testing period, the results of an aesthetic treatment I'd previously undergone began to kick in. The treatment involved two injectables that don't add volume or freeze facial movement but instead boost the skin's hydration from within and stimulate its natural collagen production.

I'll be writing about that treatment in more detail later this month. However, throughout this review, I'll distinguish between the results I can reasonably attribute to the capsules and those that are likely to have come from the aesthetic treatment.

The Verdict

After approximately a month of using the new capsules, my skin looks noticeably healthier and more youthful. It's more radiant, firmer, bouncier and smoother, with fewer visible fine lines. In general, it just looks happier.

The difference between my before-and-after photographs is stark. However, as I've already mentioned, the results of my aesthetic treatment will also have started to kick in during this period.

And it's important to be realistic about which improvements can be attributed to which treatment.

The injectable treatment I underwent was designed to improve hydration from within and stimulate natural collagen production. Consequently, some of the visible firming and plumping of my skin will undoubtedly be down to that treatment.

However, having used Elizabeth Arden's previous Ceramide Capsules year after year, I know the difference that consistently optimising my skin barrier with ceramide skincare can make to its appearance.

That glass-skin radiance is something I've experienced with the previous formulation, too, and it's a result I associate with consistent ceramide barrier care. As for the firming and smoothing, it's only fair to attribute those improvements to a combination of the aesthetic treatment and my topical skincare.

However, I can confidently say that these capsules continue to deliver the benefits that have made them a permanent fixture in my autumn and winter skincare routine.

And while the longevity movement might be introducing increasingly sophisticated technologies, the fundamental principle remains the same: maintaining a healthy skin barrier is one of the most important things you can do for your skin.

The difference is that we're now exploring ways to help our skin maintain that barrier for itself, rather than relying exclusively on replacing what it loses.

More to Try

When Beyoncé announced the launch of her haircare brand Cécred, back in 2024, like many people in beauty, I paused. We've seen many celebrity hair care lines come and go, but with Queen Bey at the helm—a woman whose iconic hair transformations have defined pop culture for decades—and a reported six years of research behind the line, anticipation was at an all-time high.

Now that the line has officially crossed the pond and hit UK soil, launching nationwide at Space NK, the big question remains: does the formula live up to the hype? Especially when tested on low-porosity, yet dense 4C hair.

How We Test

Before the launch, I was invited down to Salt Salon in Borough Market to test the range. I have to admit that I was apprehensive. After wearing my 4C coils in back-to-back knotless braids for about two years, I would be lying if I said I was up to date on my hair's texture, damage, or styling options.

My hair is both dense and composed of fine strands, which means it tends to pick up any humidity in the air the second I step outside, so to play it safe, I went into the appointment and requested the brand's 'sleeked-out' hairstyling, aka a slicked-back bun.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by Vice Chairwoman Ms. Tina Lawson, Grace Ray (who's also ex-Living Proof) and the brand's lead global hairstylist, Neal Farinah, who broke down some of the formulations and shared the history of the brand and the decision to create a range that could work seamlessly for braids, blowouts, and everything in between.

Despite the warm welcome, after being handed their styling range—which the brand cites as offering heat protection up to 232°C/450°F alongside styling, right down to the hair gel—my journalistic scepticism went into overdrive. To get the 411 on the range, I spoke to the Cécred’s team to interrogate the molecular science behind the bottles, along with a full salon experience.

First Impressions

At first glance, the sleek, architectural packaging is undeniably striking—it feels substantial and luxurious, with enough texture to help prevent in-shower slippage. But beyond shelf appeal, Cécred relies heavily on serious hair science, centred around its patent-pending Bioactive Keratin Ferment technology. To understand how this technology sets itself apart on the market, I spoke with Dr Kari Williams, Trichologist and Cécred Educator, to break down how the formulas interact with different hair textures.

"Bioactive Keratin Ferment is Cécred’s patent-pending repair technology, made with keratin, honey and lactobacillus ferment," explains Dr Kari. "The keratin is derived from wool and is biomimetic to human hair, meaning it closely resembles the keratin proteins found in the hair fibre." The Trichologist adds that "through fermentation, the keratin is broken down into a smaller molecular size, allowing it to penetrate more deeply into the hair and help replace depleted proteins. The technology is designed to strengthen hair from within, instead of simply coating the hair’s surface."

As most beauty lovers know, when navigating international rollouts post-Brexit, compliance standards can often force reformulations or delay product SKUs. However, Dr Kari reassured us that British consumers are receiving the exact same uncompromised formulas. "We’ve formulated under strict global guidelines from the beginning, so Cécred formulas are all compliant."

"Cécred’s testing has shown benefits including increased resistance to breakage, improved smoothness and damage repair caused by chemical processing. We’ve validated this through clinical, consumer, and salon testing across three continents."

Salon culture has always been rooted in deep care, rest, and emotional connection. Dr Kari notes that all of this is crucial to the range, and the home-use collection attempts to mirror that exact salon feeling. "The salon has always been about more than a finished look. It’s a place of care, confidence, ritual and connection, and Cécred was created with that in mind," Dr Kari shares. "We believe that everyone should feel important and seen, and that applies to every facet of the brand. Using Cécred at home feels just as uplifting as a visit to the salon does. Our products are an incredibly transformative system, but they’re also a ritual."

How to Apply

When it came to my own chance to experience this 'more than product' feeling, I can say that from the moment I sat at the wash bowl to the final look, I felt completely at ease. Having taken out my braids two days before the appointment, I was acutely aware that my detangling skills aren't always up to par. However, the detangler spray—housed in a standout electric blue bottle— melted through residual buildup and broke down leftover detangling knots before my hair was prepped for treatment.

Next, after a thorough shampoo, I was placed under the dryer for a restoring hot oil treatment to deeply rehydrate my thirsty strands from scalp to tip. Once thoroughly nourished, it was time to get styled. Despite going into the appointment with sleek ambitions, after being in the trusted hands of the team and celebrity hairstylist Zateesha Barbour, I agreed to a different approach. Cécred's Neal Farinah cut my hair into a sharp bob.

To style, Farinah hot-combed the roots before using the brand's hairspray from the range, then straightened it. Despite the heat and direct tension, my hair didn't fall off the bone—it retained its integrity, strength, and resilience, revealing a silk press that left it shiny from root to tip. Frankly, since the word 'shiny' and my hair have never historically been in the same conversation, I was sold on the styling range's heat-protection credibility.

The Verdict

I went into the appointment at Salt with a slicked-back style in mind, and I was particularly interested to see whether the bob would hold. In the past, no matter the moisture treatment or the salon expertise, my hair tends to revert quickly because I sweat from my scalp outwards. Despite the sudden temperature change and the windier autumn weather, after a hot journey home on the tube, my hair stayed firmly in place.

What really sold me on the range, however, was the condition of my hair afterwards. Two days after the appointment, my hair still has a striking, visible shine, and despite losing a headscarf and bonnet (or two) while sleeping, even just brushed out, it stayed almost pin straight. It still feels remarkably soft and moisturised and I have no doubt that a quick once-over with the straightener would instantly bring it back to life and return it to the exact results I left with.

I firmly believe a professional cut makes all subsequent at-home maintenance much easier, so I am genuinely excited to see whether I can recreate this look myself. The real test will ultimately come down to whether I am able to mirror these results during my own wash day, but with how straightforward and intuitive the steps are with Cécred, I have no doubt that it is going to become a permanent staple in my hair care routine going forward.

More to Try