CELEBRITY STYLE SPY: See all the latest celeb photos

Hotel Signum, The Aeolian Islands

By Lisa Oxenham on Tuesday 22 November 2011

Print
Share
Comment

Hotel Signum - The Aeolian Islands - Marie Claire - Marie Claire UK

I’ve enjoyed all kinds of entertainment while dining, from serenading mariachis to acrobats and even plate jugglers, but an erupting volcano has to come top of the list. We are enjoying a divine dinner at Hotel Signum, on the Aeolian island of Salina, a three-hour hydrofoil ride north of Sicily – and mama nature is putting on quite a show.

Gaze past the eclectic, rustic furniture and gorgeous greenery of the restaurant’s beautiful terrace during the day and you can see the island of Panarea. Further in the distance lies the volcano Stromboli, the tiny whisps of smoke emanating from its peak testament to its continued activity. In tonight’s darkness, Panarea is not visible but Stromboli is being kind enough to sporadically spit out pieces of molten rock from deep inside the earth, lighting up the sky with fiery red and orange flashes. It’s truly magical.

But after three days here, we are becoming pleasantly used to magical. The islands aren’t the easiest place to get to. You need to fly Palermo or Catania in Sicily and then take the hydrofoil to Salina, the second largest of the Aeolian Islands. The crossing can be a little rough and on the day we flew out the hydrofoil from Palermo was cancelled – resulting in a hectic four hour train journey to the town of Milazzo to, in the nick of time, catch the last hydrofoil to Salina from there. But… when you do arrive, it’s almost like you’ve flown to another continent.

The carefree, la dolce vita attitude you find in so much of Italy is magnified here, with friendly locals so laidback they’re practically horizontal. The scenery is stunning, with azure blue seas, sheer rock faces, winding mountain roads and tiny rural settlements that hang improbably to the hillside. And while being developed enough to have all of the essentials, the place hasn’t been ruined by money and still has so much of that unspoiled charm that has made it a favourite destination for in-the-know Italians for years.

Hotel Signum is located in the town of Malfa (which takes its name from the migrants from the Amalfi Coast who settled there centuries ago) in the north of Salina. After being dropped off by taxi on the “main road” when we arrive, a discreet sign guides us through the maze-like narrow streets toward the hotel. We are greeted by the friendly concierge Marco and the overpowering, wonderful aroma of Jasmine, which grows copiously around the whole complex. After such a stressful journey, you can almost hear us unwind.

Opened in 1988 by husband and wife Clara and Michele (who were both born in Malfa), the hotel is made up of several buildings that were once normal houses within the village. Starting with 15 rooms, Signum now has 30 after Clara and Michele expanded over the years simply by buying up adjacent properties. The result gives the place an organic, almost ramshackle feel, which is utterly charming. The hotel is still family-run, with Clara and Michele assisted by a very friendly and efficient team of staff, headed up by the capable and courteous Izabella.

The décor is exqusite – part rustic Italy, part French countryside and part British colonial – Clara obviously has fantastic taste. Having just moved into a new house and feeling thoroughly inspired by Signum, I spend much of the trip manically photographing every detail of the place and drilling Clara on how she put it together and exactly where she got specific pieces of furniture – turns most of it comes from Salina itself.

Our room is minimal with gorgeous shutters and a small terrace and, most importantly, is directly next to the pool. It’s September and the temperature is still well above 30 most days so the infinity pool, with its striking views out to the aforementioned Panarea and Stromboli, is essential for cooling dips.

The sea is about five minutes walk through the narrow streets and down some very steep steps and has perhaps the clearest, bluest water I may have ever seen. But it comes at a price. The beach is made up of smooth rocks, which are tricky to navigate and make getting in and out of the water a somewhat undignified affair. If you have any type of watersports footwear, I’d advise packing them.

Signum also has a small but very well thought out spa, including a robust steam room, outdoor hot tubs, plunge pools and a fantastic water massage pool – all designed in a classic, Roman style. We spent a lazy afternoon steaming and soaking – then soaking up the sunshine while sipping liquorice tea on the sumptuous day beds. I also had a wonderfully relaxing massage from one of the very able therapists.

If you want to venture further afield, there a several other towns and places of interest to visit on the island. I would recommend catching sunset at the neighbouring town of Pollara, with its stunning bay, nestled in the volcanic rock – a location used for several scenes in the film Il Postino. After sunset, grab dinner at the Al Cappero restaurant, one of the best on the island.

Back at the hotel for dinner the food, even by Italian standards is superb. We’ve gone for the 55 euro tasting menu – the highlight being octopus with sun dried tomatoes with a flavour so rich it tastes like bacon – with some local Salina wine, Fenech. Capers are also a specialty of Salina and are some of the best in the world.

And so as Stromboli continues its incandescent fizzing, our thoughts turn to the journey home. The four hour ferry ride to Palermo, the layover in the B&B and the flight back to London early the morning after. Getting too and from Signum really is quite some caper. But it’s one we’ll happily repeat again and again.

From €130 a night in low season and €400 in high season. Via Scalo 15, 98050 Malfa Salina Isole Eolie Messina, Italy. Tel: 090 984 4222; visit: www.hotelsignum.it.

Book through www.mrandmrssmith.com

Review by Lisa Oxenham

Release date: Tuesday 22 November 2011