New York fashion week: Midnight glamour from BCBG Max Azria and utilitarian chic from L.A.M.B.

By Rachel Holmes  on Friday 12 February 2010

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New York fashion week kicked off yesterday with BCBG Max Azria and L.A.M.B, but the shows were overshadowed by the tragic news of Alexander McQueen's death.

Going from an initial state of eager anticipation, the mood dropped as soon as the news circulated around the tents at Bryant Park, with many people openly crying on the front rows. On Twitter the news spread fast. New York Magazine's fashion blog, The Cut tweeted Anna Wintour's reaction: 'Witnesses say Anna got the McQueen news via text during BCBG; she got up and ran out mid-show.'

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: A RETROSPECTIVE

Other big figures in the fashion world paid tribute to the designer: 'It's horrible news. It's so sad to be in such a state of despair. Such a great talent, such poetry - it's horrific,' said Diane von Furstenberg, head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, to AFP.

McQueen's McQ collection, a more youthful diffusion line, was scheduled to take place at 3pm, but was cancelled due to the circumstances. Stars including Naomi Campbell went to pay tribute to the much-loved designer by laying flowers outside his New York store.

SEE OTHER STARS' TRIBUTES TO MCQUEEN

The shows still had to go on though, and many labels had already strutted their stuff before news of McQueen's death had filtered through. Among the designers on the bill yesterday were Gwen Stefani with her label L.A.M.B., and BCBG Max Azria.

The day started with Max and Lubov Azria's geometric collection. Colour blocking was a big feature with blacks appearing next to the odd pastel blue and yellow. Silk dresses, cinched in at the waist with utilitarian belts floated out behind the models like trailing scarves. The colour palette was mostly dark, made up of midnight, black and opal grey and an occasional shimmer added with sequins. Overall the collection was rather lovely, taking you through from daywear to night, with ease and sophistication.

SEE PICS FROM THE BCBG MAX AZRIA SHOW

At L.A.M.B. it was the usual street-style fare for Gwen Stefani, with a chunk of punk thrown in for good measure. The punk came in the form of leather: skirts, shirts, trousers and long boots were everywhere. Alongside military-inspired cargo pants and khaki, there were elements of bondage-wear too with multitudes of belts strewn all over the models and corsets a-plenty. 'It's all about what I want to wear really,' said the singer. Of that, there was no doubt.

SEE PICS FROM THE L.A.M.B. SHOW

In the evening, it was the turn of the Heart's Truth, the traditional charity show where designers make red dresses for celebs to support awareness of women's heart disease. Highlights included Felicity Huffman outfitted in Oscar de la Renta, who stopped halfway down the runway to kiss her actor husband William H Macy to cheers from the crowd. Author and actress Joan Collins held out the train of her Stephane Rolland dress as if it was a cape and she was queen of the night.

Model, designer and TV presenter, Heidi Klum closed the show in a stunning John Galliano gown.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN: A RETROSPECTIVE

Friday 12 February 2010

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