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Sunday 7 September

 


Milan Fashion Week: Day Five

Marie Claire Fashion: Marni A/W 2008 Mitchell Sams

If you own anything, ANYTHING, with a military vibe, dig it out now: it's going to be huge next season.

After two weeks of overtly subtle hints, the trend staked its claim on autumn here at Milan Fashion Week yesterday, with buckles, brocade and gold studs all punctuating the big-name shows of the day.

The trend, however, is more luxurious than last time round, so bin that £12 Primark cropped jacket (you remember, the terrible Marc Jacobs rip-off) and, instead, look to thicker, sturdier fabrics and a more old fashioned vibe.

At Gucci, the trend was mixed in with a more gypsy-esque attitude. Tapestry bags, frills and tassels all featured, alongside studded suede ankle boots (you must have a pair of those left over from winter, don't throw those out either), leather belts and over-the-knee leather riding boots.

Those double-breasted gold buttons, however, which we've seen all over the place in the past few weeks, still featured, and when you've seen a trend translated from New York to London to Milan, you know it's going to be difficult to ignore.

That doesn't mean every fashion house has towed the line. The first show of yesterday's line-up was a complete departure from the general autumn/winter ambiance. Opening the day's shows,Marni displayed a collection of unparalleled delights.

Alongside the stunning accessories – chunky, Perspex flower bracelets, open-toe boots on stacked wooden heels, pretty felt headbands and sequinned collars – the clothes themselves were a 'mix and match' selection of shapes, colours and materials, proving no one has to tow the trend line if they don't want to, especially if they have unique ideas of their own.

Beautiful to look at, without being too pretty-pretty, expect to see this collection gracing the wardrobe of every fashion editor worth her salt come autumn.

From the fashionistas' favourite to the stars',Roberto Cavalli was as heavy on the glitz and glam as one would expect, albeit with a slightly softer edge than we sometimes see.

A strong floral theme ran through the whole collection, with embroidered flowers sprouting up on frothy summer dresses, black evening corsets, heavy Afghan coats and even a long black riding jacket.

Lace was also an integral part of the mix, spliced in with black ribbons on a sequence of pretty dresses and with patent leather on the stiletto ankle boots, which accessorised many of the looks.

So, the question remains, can military and lace triumph over the pervading velvet, bohemian sensibility and New York's Sixties miniskirts as next season's most important trends?

There are still two more days of Milan Fashion Week to come and an entire week of Paris shows before the jury retires. Check back tomorrow to see what Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Matthew Williamson at Pucci have to say on the matter…

CLICK HERE to see all the catwalk pictures for Marni.

CLICK HERE to see all the catwalk pictures from Gucci.

CLICK HERE to see all the catwalk pictures from Roberto Cavalli.

Thursday 21 February 2008


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