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Milan Fashion Week: Day Four

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Marie Claire Fashion: Prada A/W 2008, Milan Fashion Week

The sun was out in Milan yesterday for day three of fashion week. On the catwalks, however, it was far chillier.

At Etro, against a backdrop of cut-out winter trees and with snow falling on the catwalk, a collection of mixed-up trends attempted to warm some hardened fashion hearts.

Emerging new-season trends – like velvet, plaid, fringing and Victoriana – all featured, alongside a handful of lovely sheer, floaty print gowns (although it's definitely the first time we've seen thigh-high, pink, lace-up boots this month).

Moschino, meanwhile, was youthful and fun. To the strains of Sergeant Pepper's Lonely Heart's Club Band, models with huge dandy-esque bouffant hairdos were discharged from the back of a huge Moschino lorry, like very stylish, illegal immigrants.

Fringing was a key theme, featuring on an all-in-one black catsuit and elbow-length leather gloves, but so too were military references, with plenty of gold buttons studding navy sailor suits and jackets.

Faded leopard prints made an appearance, as did sequins, embellished flowers, lace and other more feminine touches, in contrast to the jaunty, boyish shapes.

At Sportmax's 'Venus Dreams' collection, it was also all about contrasts: innocence vs surrealism, masculine vs feminine, embellishment vs clean lines. A little eccentric, a little gothic, hand-painted silks mingled with plaid tweeds and strappy, fetishised accessories with flirty tulle dresses.

The best, however, was yet to come.

Much has been talked of hemlines in the past few weeks. In New York, and to some extent London, they tended to be bottom-skimmingly high. In Italy this week, on the other hand, they have long to the point of hitting the floor.

At Prada, last night, however, everything was cut resolutely just below or at the knee. If that sounds safe and a little dowdy, it really wasn't. In fact, this might just have been the most subtly sexy collection we've seen all season.

Many of the pieces were completely see-through, thanks to the ubiquitous lace material which was used to craft almost the entire collection, the models' modesty concealed with big pants (hurrah! They're back again) and some luxurious jersey polo necks.

And the shoes – wow, the shoes! After last season's flirtation with flower stalk heels, this season's footwear was far more angular and futuristic, but no less covetable (or high).

'It makes it all worthwhile,' sighed one content British journalist outside. 'So inspiring…'

CLICK HERE to see all the Prada catwalk photos.

CLICK HERE to see all the Moschino catwalk photos.

CLICK HERE to see all the Etro catwalk photos.