Show report: Valentino A/W’12

Say Valentino and you generally think of soft silhouettes and even softer colours. It was therefore somewhat of a surprise when the opening looks for A/W’12 were all jet-black leather.

Say Valentino and you generally think of soft silhouettes and even softer colours. It was therefore somewhat of a surprise when the opening looks for A/W’12 were all jet-black leather.

Yet, even from look one it was clear this was a master lesson in how to to make a fabric usually channeling dominatrix undertones, soft, delicate and utterly feminine.

Using butter soft Napa leather, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri gave a cape, culottes, a long trench coat and even a jumpsuit that signature luxe and girly Valentino edge.

Passementerie, macramé and ornate frogging details kept the collection fresh and modern while still evoking that old world glamour that Valentino does so well.

‘Folk’ was the ethos behind the collection which became clearer as oriental carpet pattern coats and full-sleeved dresses with scattered rose print motifs appeared.

Twinkling lurex, sheer paneling, detailed hand embroidery and beadwork kept the Nomadic feel while layers of chiffon, scalloped edging and longer length skirts enthused the Valentino aesthetic perfectly.

Valentino Garavani said in the documentary ‘Valentino: The Last Emperor:’ ‘I know what women want. They want to be beautiful.’

As the last model floated off the runway it was clear, Piccioli and Chiuri know this too

MORE FASHION NEWS

Reading now

Popular