Show report: Rochas A/W’12

A car coat in an exquisite golden geometric print, was our introduction to Marco Zanini's A/W 12 collection for Rochas in Paris

A car coat in an exquisite golden geometric print, was our introduction to Marco Zanini’s A/W 12 collection for Rochas in Paris. And with the model’s loose demi-bouffant hair, it was enough of a hint that the 50s vibe from S/S was still alive and kicking.

‘The pottery of Swedish ceramicist Wilhelm Kage and modernism in general’ were the key influencers, explained the jubilant designer when we met him backstage after the show. Certainly these prints has a fabulously original, mid century feel.

The palette were those slightly sludgey browns, mauves, petrol blues and greenish yellows – Don Draper’s bachelor pad- comes to mind. But with the super long, lean flared trousers the show tripped into the 70s too.

We couldn’t keep our eyes off the thick jaquard printed tights which, along with the thick rimmed spectacles that cropped up now and then and loose ribbed knits, gave the models a bookish almost blue-stocking look.

‘She’s an intelligent, cultivated woman’ said Zanini of the Rochas woman. With these deliciously, clever clothes she’s a lady that we’d all love to be.

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