Show report: Erdem A/W'12

Erdem goes mid-century modern with a beautiful autumn/winter show at Bermondsey’s White Cube Gallery

Erdem goes mid-century modern with a beautiful autumn/winter show at Bermondsey’s White Cube Gallery. The White Cube was a fitting venue for Erdem’s autumn/winter show in Bermondsey today – the designer’s inspiration was great art collectors of the 50s and 60s – and more specifically the bold and often eccentric style of collectors like Betty Freeman or Peggy Guggenheim. Yet despite the couture references, this was no straight rendition of those mid-century looks - there were myriad references to the decade in cocoon shaped dresses, crop sleeved egg-shaped coats and high-collared dresses but it was all brought firmly up to date with a dazzling colour palette that combined electric blue with magenta and dirty yellows and techy fabric touches – tweeds were covered with latex, skirts were made in a multiprene material, buttons were painted over. It was still very lady-like especially with the pretty Swarovski crystals that adorned necklines or were speckled over exquisite lace-overlay evening dresses but there was more bite to this collection that Erdem’s sweet and innocent spring/summer show. Samantha Cameron got a preview with the designer backstage before the show – and there was plenty here too for the Duchess of Cambridge. Let’s hope she will be placing another Erdem order very soon.