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Experience a gastropub that really lives up to its name

Where: 26-28 Ray Street, Clerkenwell, London, EC1R 3DJ, 0207 278 1478

East End pub, East End grub? Not on your nelly - you won't find a whiff of jellied eels or pie and mash here. This is part of the new breed of up-and-coming gastropubs - and it doesn't just call itself that to sound good, it really is good. Fantastic, in fact. From braised lentils with Romano artichoke and poached duck egg to spiced Aberdeen Angus meatballs and salt cod fishcakes, the menu is imaginative, sensitively-sourced and mouth-wateringly enticing. We started with mussels in a sherry, parsley and garlic sauce, followed up with suckling pork belly (boyfriend) and organic salmon with sampire and jersey royals (me). Silence ensued (apart from the constant hum of our mmmm's), until we'd both gobbled up every last delicious morsel.

But is it expensive? Considering the quality of the food, not at all. The most expensive thing on the new lunch menu is £12.50. In an attempt to show that you can enjoy a well-priced, fabulous, freshly-cooked lunch - instead of frittering your money away at Pret - it offers three £4 dishes plus a pint, a glass of wine or a soft drink for £10. Or, you can buy an £8 dish plus a drink for the same price. During the week, the menu differs every day, to keep it fresh and exciting.

Who goes? Nestled neatly behind the Guardian and Observer newspaper buildings, lunch times are buzzing and full of professional types. But, with a fashion college nearby, too, it atttracts a pleasant mix of people. It has an authentic 'pub' feel - this is not a flashy bar - and it's all the better for it.

What's special? A family-run gig, you can really feel there's heart and soul behind this place. After talking to the super-friendly owner, Giles, I was left in no doubt that what appears on your plate is the result of a lot of hard work, skill and tender loving care,

Need-to-know? Two things: you can't leave without trying the peanut butter ice cream (delicious), and, if you're looking for a nice quiet lunch, go on Sunday when the work crowds are at home. (Note: special offers only apply during the week).

Review by Ruth Doherty

Release date: Thursday 3 July 2008

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