The Victoria in Sheen

Great eats and long sleeps, courtesy of Sheen's finest dining room

The Victoria pub and restaurant, Sheen, London - Reviews - Marie Claire
The Victoria pub and restaurant, Sheen, London - Reviews - Marie Claire

Great eats and long sleeps, courtesy of Sheen's finest dining room

Where? The Victoria, 10 West Temple Sheen, London SW14 7RT (020 8876 4238, www.thevictoria.net)

Traditional pub name, traditional pub grub? From the thrice-cooked chips to the ham, egg and pineapple, the bar menu at The Victoria is great for those who want a hearty snack after a bracing walk in nearby Richmond Park, but for something altogether fancier, step into the buzzy conservatory where the a la carte menu will spoil even the most discerning of diners.

Talk about raising expectations! You won't be disappointed. Starters like roasted scallops on caramelised pork belly or Cornish mussel broth with curry spices would be equally at home on the menu of a five-star, silver-service hotel restaurant as they are here, while mains of pan-fried sea bass on sag aloo, onion bhagee and tomato chilli jam or seared squid with Alejandro chorizo, spiced chick pea puree and coriander yoghurt are as tasty as they are unusual.

Are the desserts as quirky as the mains they follow? For those who prefer to sate their sweet tooth with something traditional, warm chocolate pudding with chantilly cream is the obvious choice. For the rest of us, thyme blossom honey and ginger semi freddo with roasted fig and pine nuts or baked egg custard with blackberry compote and green apple sorbet are a delicious diversion from the norm.

Sounds like you need the bracing walk after the meal not before it? Either that, or a very long sleep. If the latter's your preferred option, you'll be delighted to hear there's a suite of bedrooms upstairs where you can retire after your meal for a good night's kip, before repeating the whole experience with a slap-up breakfast the next morning.

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