The Burlington Restaurant at The Devonshire Arms

A Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales

Where?The Burlington restaurant, Devonshire Arms Country House Hotel, Bolton Abbey, Skipton, North Yorks BD23 6AJ (01756 710441)

Who, what, where? Michael Wignall heads up this Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of the Yorkshire Dales. Using seasonal game and fish from the Devonshire estate and vegetables, herbs and fruit from the kitchen gardens he has built up a reputation as one of the best chefs in the country.

Pre-dinner drinks and canapés are served in one of the lounges in front of log fires. The restaurant itself spills into the conservatory running the length of the building and is subtly lit and overlooks the Italian garden and towards the moors and fells of Lower Wharfedale beyond. Each course is preceded by a palate cleanser – just as delicious as the courses themselves.

There is a tasting menu (which requires the participation of the whole table) comprising foie gras, wild seabass, pork belly, organic salmon, venison, cheese, chocolate, tangerine parfait and raspberry clafoutis.

But I stuck to the A La Carte, starting with terrine of lobster, organic salmon and monkfish cheek, with a cannelloni of Portland crab and mooli, confit egg yolk. This was swiftly followed by wild seabass with braised fennel and red wine glazed shallots, hand-dived scallops and Carlingford oyster beignets.

But the highlight of my evening was the cheese trolley. Heaven on wheels frankly. They had a vast selection of soft cheeses, hard cheeses, goats’ cheese and smoked. I chose six and practically inhaled them they were so tasty.

Portions are haute cuisine sized – they are intensely rich and smaller than you will get elsewhere – think French rather than American.

Coffee is accompanied by an extensive range of petits fours including vanilla macaroon, apple marshmallow and raisin fudge.

What to drink? It would be wrong to mention the restaurant without more than a nod to one of the finest wine lists in the country. The restaurant has collated an 1800 bin wine list with over 60 house wines.

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