It might still be Saint Laurent, but YSL is most certainly back...
The game of musical chairs is one of fashion’s favourite sports – not a season goes by without designers leaving, coming back, switching houses… But even with that in mind, this season is a biggie – with not one, not two, but three major debuts awaiting thumbs up (or down) emojis from the fashion crowd.
1. It might still be Saint Laurent, but YSL is back
2. Sexy is always sexy
Vaccarello’s previous job was designing Donatella Versace’s Versus label. There, and at his own eponymous label (now on hiatus while he concentrates on Saint Laurent), one thing he was never accused of was designing man-repelling clothes. Nope, leaving tricky shapes and intellectual reverie to others, his signatures are body-conscious and relentlessly sexy. This collection took it to a new level – the nipple wasn’t just freed, it was celebrated in several looks. One of Binx Walton’s was decorated with a crystal pastie (the other was covered by her asymmetric dress) and one of Vaccarello’s favourite models, Anja Rubik, stalked down the runway in a tiny black leather minidress that finished just above the waist – the entire top half was sheer chiffon, with nipples on full display. Black leather dominated, and if hems were any shorter, they’d have been classed as belts. These looks were clothes for the kind of party girls who aren’t worried about post-dinner bloat – because they don’t do dinner.
4. Le Smoking is forever