YSL goes back to black

A new mood of restraint at Yves Saint Laurent

The taxi driver who took me to the Eurostar terminal last week, once he’d ascertained why I was travelling to Paris, wanted to know, ‘What’s the new black, then,’ – apparently it would give him good currency with his daughter that evening over dinner.

I’m not entirely sure he was overly impressed with my response that, ‘Well, black appears to be the new black, actually, with maybe a case for a bit of camel’, but now Stefano Pilati at YSL seems in agreement, I’m feeling slightly more confident with my trend prediction.

Yves Saint Laurent, Autumn/Winter 2010, Paris Fashion Week

For this latest collection, Pilati appeared in a sombre mood, dressing his models in demure capes, buttoned-up jackets and wimple-like hats. The theme of the show – ‘protection’ – was born out in little plastic coverings over the outerwear, while smart tailoring – another key trend this season was in plentiful, and exemplary, supply.

Yves Saint Laurent, Autumn/Winter 2010, Paris Fashion Week

 And then, just when I was ready to put down the notebook, job done, autumn/winter 10’s colour scheme sorted, out popped a quintet of brights – a floaty purple pussy-bow frock, an acid pink satin cape, a royal blue high-necked shift, a turquoise dress-and-capelet number and, finally, a canary yellow ruffled poncho.

Yves Saint Laurent, Autumn/Winter 2010, Paris Fashion Week

London’s drivers can sleep easy, safe in the knowledge colour hasn’t been completely outlawed for winter.


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