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Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler autumn/winter 2008

The Armory on Park Avenue is an imposing place to hold a catwalk show. Cavernous and echoy, with dark shadows chasing around its corners, it could all too easily overpower a weak collection.



Thankfully, Proenza Schouler don't know the meaning of off seasons and the latest collection was confident and inspired from the start.



With their models sporting sexy, backcombed hairdos and smouldering turquoise eyes, the show kicked off with a series of punchy bright silk twill dresses, off-set with clashing tights and bright, suede heels.



Mustard shocked against burgundy and red, while purple made a stand against yellow and green.



With high hem lines and A-line shapes, plus those hair and make-up styling hits, it's hard not to reference the Sixties, but this all felt resolutely modern thanks to the bias-cut detailing on the dresses, which saw tiers of fabric fall like butterfly wings from the throat of each piece.



Fabric was certainly key to the overall feel of this collection, with heavy double-face wools paired with glittering sequins, or shaggy shearling with silk chiffon, but it was the way it was cut, generously and at flattering angle, that made it all look so effortless.



If it's a fashion war you're after, you'd do well to have these two guys on your side.

Words by Carla Bevan, Tuesday 5 February 2008


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