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Jean Paul Gaultier
By Lucy Hutchings on Thursday 24 January 2008
Earlier this week Karl Lagerfeld subtly hinted that marine motifs could be a key trend for the next season, when shell-like shapes graced the catwalk at Chanel.
For Jean Paul Gaultier, the theme was somewhat less understated and the designer went for a full 'under the sea' theme for his spring/summer 2008 couture collection. Although Gaultier is no stranger to the nautical motif, with sailors featuring consistently throughout his work, it was shimmering fish and mermaids that ruled the catwalk this season.
The stage was set as a model clad in a glittery fish scale dress opened the show, perched on a rock, with soapy bubbles surrounding her and a watery background; the little mermaid perhaps for the couture client?
The watery look was literal for the many of the models, who sported wet matted hair, with one carrying a giant sponge, from which she proceeded to squeeze a shower of water onto herself.
The look took its most extreme form with Gaultier's mermaid bride. Model Coco Rocha wore a fish tale and coral crutches, which she discarded when she unzipped her tail to walk free, with her shell conical bra reminiscent of Gaultier's most famous fan, Madonna.
At other points, the ocean references remained, but in a less obvious tone. Trench coats were translucent with scallop edging, while dresses featured jellyfish motifs or glittered like fish skin. Tailored trouser suits in marine blues and greys featured shell shape pockets and sat over nautical stripe tops. And it was not just the clothing. Shoes were painted with delicate scales, and gloves and tights featured images of sea monsters.
Again like Lagerfeld, Gaultier seemed to be hinting at a younger mood emerging amongst the old world of couture. After the show he commented, 'When I started couture, I really thought couture customers were dead or dying. But now there are all these new clients. We're working all the time, and I love it - it's a permit to create!'
With this witty, but beautifully presented collection, Gaultier proves that it is not only the couture customers who are enjoying a new lease of life.
CLICK HERE TO SEE ALL THE CATWALK PHOTOS
Words by Lucy Hutchings, Thursday 24 January 2008
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