The Summit Bid begins...

Posted by Lara Herbert at 09:55 on 16 May 2008

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Finally, the Makalu gods have allowed us climbers the privilege of reaching her esteemed summit by opening the long awaited weather window. Each morning, small groups of hopeful climbers snake their way slowly upwards through the wonderland of glistening seracs. It is as if each serac has been specially carved to resemble a mystical creature. Shapes of ever changing unicorns and dragons abound. Similarly, each morning, bedraggled and exhausted climbers make their way down, some successful, most disappointed.

Today is the day that my team of five climbers commences its summit bid. All going well, it will take four days to reach the summit of Makalu. We plan to spend the first three nights in camps 1 to 3 respectively. Camp 3 is located on the Makalu La at 7400m above sea level. Each camp has already been stocked with camping necessities such as gas, cookers, sleeping bags etc. In addition, camp 3 has been stocked with oxygen cylinders.

After a night at camp 3, we plan to move up to camp 4, at 7600m above sea level, where we will rest briefly and rehydrate. Our intention then is to set off for the summit at midnight, breathing from oxygen cylinders if required. This final leg should take approximately eight to 10 hours. Each member has packed for five days on the mountain, ensuring sufficient rations and warm clothes.

At the moment, the team is fairly relaxed. Morale is high and proliferative jokes fly to and fro. There is, however, a palpable tension, as each climber wonders how he or she will cope in conditions of extreme altitude and weather conditions. (Wind speeds of 40+miles per hour and temperatures colder than -30 degrees celcius at the summit have been predicted for our summit day.)

Having treated a number of climbers from other expeditions, who have failed to reach the summit because of various medical problems ranging from frostbite to high altitude cerebral oedema (fluid on the brain caused by hypoxia), I am under no illusions as to how difficult it is to reach the summit. My main fears include being unable to re-warm in extremely cold conditions and also losing control of my mind and body due to lack of oxygen. Although I have these fears, I feel a mixture of perfect calm and a faint tinge of excitement for the adventure which lies ahead. Having thought about most possible eventualities and acclimatised to 7100m above sea level, I feel both mentally and physically prepared.

Although focused on the summit, I realise that this is merely a bonus to the incredible privilege of being able to climb an 8000m peak.

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